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THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED TO DOUGLAS JERROLD, WHOM, KNOWING
MOST INTIMATELY, THE AUTHOR HAS LEARNT TO LOVE AND HONOUR
MOST PROFOUNDLY.
THE STREET-FOLK.
Wandering Tribes in General -- -1
Wandering Tribes in the Country -- -2
The London Street-Folk -- -3
Street Sellers of Fish -- -61
Street Sellers of Fruit and Vegetables -- -79
Stationary Street Sellers of Fish, Fruit, and Vegetables -- -97
The Street Irish -- -104
Street Sellers of Game, Poultry, Rabbits, Butter, Cheese, and Eggs -- -120
Street Sellers of Trees, Shrubs, Flowers, Roots, Seeds, and Branches -- -131
Street Sellers of Eatables and Drinkables -- -158
Street Sellers of Stationery, Literature, and the Fine Arts -- -213
Street Sellers of Manufactured Articles -- -323
The Women Street Sellers -- -457
The Children Street Sellers -- -466
Portrait of Mr. Mayhew...Frontispiece
The London Costermonger...on page 13
The Coster-Girl...37
The Oyster Stall...49
The Orange Mart ( Duke's Place)...73
The Irish Street-Seller...97
The Wallflower Girl...127
The Groundsell Man...147
The Baked Potato Man...167
The Coffee-Stall...Facing page 184
The Coster Boy and Girl "Tossing the Pieman"...Facing page 196
Doctor Bokanky, The Street Herbalist...197
Illustrations of Street-Art, No. I...224
Illustrations of Street-Art, No. II...238
Hindoo Tract Seller...239
"The Kitchen," Fox Court...250
The Long-Song Seller...272
Illustrations of Street-Art, No. III...278
Illustrations of Street-Art, No. IV...279
The Book Auctioneer...296
The Street-Seller of Nutmeg-Graters...330
The Street-Seller of Dog's Collars...360
The Street-Seller of Crockery-Ware...361
The Blind Boot-Lace Seller...406
The Street-Seller of Grease-Removing Composition...428
The Lucifer Match Girl...429
The Street-Seller of Walking-Sticks...438
The Street-Seller of Rhubarb and Spice...452
The Street-Seller of Combs...458
The present volume is the first of an intended series, which it is hoped will form, when complete, a cyclopædia of the industry, the want, and the vice of the great Metropolis.
It is believed that the book is curious for many reasons:
It surely may be considered curious as being the first attempt to publish the
history of a people, from the lips of the people themselves -- giving a literal
description of their labour, their earnings, their trials, and their sufferings, in their
own "unvarnished" language; and to pourtray the condition of their homes and
their families by personal observation of the places, and direct communion with
the individuals.
It may be considered curious also as being the first commission of inquiry into
the state of the people, undertaken by a private individual, and the first "blue
book" ever published in twopenny numbers.
It is curious, moreover, as supplying information concerning a large body of
persons, of whom the public had less knowledge than of the most distant tribes of
the earth -- the government population returns not even numbering them among
the inhabitants of the kingdom; and as adducing facts so extraordinary, that the
traveller in the undiscovered country of the poor must, like Bruce, until his stories
are corroborated by after investigators, be content to lie under the imputation of
telling such tales, as travellers are generally supposed to delight in.
Be the faults of the present volume what they may, assuredly they are rather
short-comings than exaggerations, for in every instance the author and his
coadjutors have sought to understate, and most assuredly never to exceed the
truth. For the omissions, the author would merely remind the reader of the
entire novelty of the task -- there being no other similar work in the language by
which to guide or check his inquiries. When the following leaves are turned over,
and the two or three pages of information derived from books contrasted with the
hundreds of pages of facts obtained by positive observation and investigation,
surely some allowance will be made for the details which may still be left for
others to supply. Within the last two years some thousands of the humbler classes
of society must have been seen and visited with the especial view of noticing their
condition and learning their histories; and it is but right that the truthfulness of
the poor generally should be made known; for though checks have been usually
adopted, the people have been mostly found to be astonishingly correct in their
statements, -- so much so indeed, that the attempts at deception are certainly the
exceptions rather than the rule. Those persons who, from an ignorance of the
simplicity of the honest poor, might be inclined to think otherwise, have, in order
The larger statistics, such as those of the quantities of fish and fruit, &c., sold
in London, have been collected from tradesmen connected with the several
markets, or from the wholesale merchants belonging to the trade specified -- gentle-
men to whose courtesy and co-operation I am indebted for much valuable informa-
tion, and whose names, were I at liberty to publish them, would be an indisputable
guarantee for the facts advanced. The other statistics have been obtained in the
same manner -- the best authorities having been invariably consulted on the subject
treated of.
It is right that I should make special mention of the assistance I have received
in the compilation of the present volume from Mr. Richard Knight (late of the City Mission), gentlemen who have been engaged with me from nearly the commencement of my inquiries, and to whose hearty co-operation both myself and the public are indebted for a large increase of knowledge. Mr. Wood, indeed, has contributed so large a proportion of the contents of the present volume that he may fairly be considered as one of its authors.
The subject of the Street-Folk will still require another volume, in order to com-
plete it in that comprehensive manner in which I am desirous of executing the
modern history of this and every other portion of the people. There still remain
-- the Street-Buyers, the Street-Finders, the Street-Performers, the Street-Artizans, and the Street-Labourers, to be done, among the several classes of street-people;
and the Street Jews, the Street Italians and Foreigners, and the Street Mechanics, to be treated of as varieties of the order. The present volume refers more parti-
cularly to the Street-Sellers, and includes special accounts of the Costermongers and
the Patterers (the two broadly-marked varieties of street tradesmen), the Street
Irish, the Female Street-Sellers, and the Children Street-Sellers of the metropolis.
My earnest hope is that the book may serve to give the rich a more intimate
knowledge of the sufferings, and the frequent heroism under those sufferings, of
the poor -- that it may teach those who are beyond temptation to look with charity on
the frailties of their less fortunate brethren -- and cause those who are in "high
places," and those of whom much is expected, to bestir themselves to improve the
condition of a class of people whose misery, ignorance, and vice, amidst all the
immense wealth and great knowledge of "the first city in the world," is, to say the
very least, a national disgrace to us.
LONDON LABOUR
AND THE LONDON POOR
that are said to constitute the population
of the entire globe, there are -- socially,
morally, and perhaps even physically consi-
sidered -- but two distinct and broadly marked
races, viz., the wanderers and the settlers -- the
vagabond and the citizen -- the nomadic and the
civilized tribes. Between these two extremes,
however, ethnologists recognize a mediate va-
riety, partaking of the attributes of both. There
is not only the race of hunters and manufac-
turers -- those who live by shooting and fishing,
and those who live by producing -- but, say they,
there are also the herdsmen, or those who live
by tending and feeding, what they consume.
Each of these classes has its peculiar and dis-
tinctive physical as well as moral characteristics.
"There are in mankind," says Dr. Pritchard,
"three principal varieties in the form of the
head and other physical characters. Among the
rudest tribes of men -- the hunters and savage
inhabitants of forests, dependent for their supply
of food on the accidental produce of the soil and
the chase -- a form of head is prevalent which is
mostly distinguished by the term "prognathous,"
indicating a prolongation or extension forward of
the jaws. A second shape of the head belongs
principally to such races as wander with their
herds and flocks over vast plains; these nations
have broad lozenge-shaped faces (owing to the
great development of the cheek bones), and
pyramidal skulls. The most civilized races, on
the other hand -- those who live by the arts of
cultivated life, -- have a shape of the head which
differs from both of those above mentioned. The
characteristic form of the skull among these
nations may be termed oval or elliptical."
These three forms of head, however, clearly
admit of being reduced to two broadly-marked
varieties, according as the bones of the face or
Column 2
those of the skull are more highly developed.
A greater relative development of the jaws and
cheek bones, says the author of the "Natural
History of Man," indicates a more ample ex-
tension of the organs subservient to sensation
and the animal faculties. Such a configuration
is adapted to the wandering tribes; whereas, the
greater relative development of the bones of the
skull -- indicating as it does a greater expansion
of the brain, and consequently of the intellectual
faculties -- is especially adapted to the civilized
races or settlers, who depend mainly on their
knowledge of the powers and properties of things
for the necessaries and comforts of life.
Moreover it would appear, that not only are
all races divisible into wanderers and settlers,
but that each civilized or settled tribe has gene-
rally some wandering horde intermingled with,
and in a measure preying upon, it.
According to Dr. Andrew Smith, who has
recently made extensive observations in South
Africa, almost every tribe of people who have
submitted themselves to social laws, recognizing
the rights of property and reciprocal social
duties, and thus acquiring wealth and forming
themselves into a respectable caste, are sur-
rounded by hordes of vagabonds and outcasts
from their own community. Such are the Bush-
men and Sonquas of the Hottentot race-the term
"sonqua" meaning literally pauper. But a
similar condition in society produces similar
results in regard to other races; and the Kafirs
have their Bushmen as well as the Hottentots --
these are called Fingoes -- a word signifying
wanderers, beggars, or outcasts. The Lappes
seem to have borne a somewhat similar relation
to the Finns; that is to say, they appear to have
been a wild and predatory tribe who sought the
desert like the Arabian Bedouins, while the
Finns cultivated the soil like the industrious
Fellahs.
But a phenomenon still more deserving of
Here, then, we have a series of facts of the
utmost social importance. (1) There are two
distinct races of men, viz.: -- the wandering
and the civilized tribes; (2) to each of these
tribes a different form of head is peculiar, the
wandering races being remarkable for the deve-
lopment of the bones of the face, as the
jaws, cheek-bones, &c., and the civilized for
the development of those of the head; (3) to each
civilized tribe there is generally a wandering
horde attached; (4) such wandering hordes
have frequently a different language from the
more civilized portion of the community, and
that adopted with the intent of concealing their
designs and exploits from them.
It is curious that no one has as yet applied
the above facts to the explanation of certain
anomalies in the present state of society among
ourselves. That we, like the Kafirs, Fellahs,
and Finns, are surrounded by wandering hordes
-- the "Sonquas" and the "Fingoes" of this
country -- paupers, beggars, and outcasts, pos-
sessing nothing but what they acquire by depre-
dation from the industrious, provident, and civil-
ized portion of the community; -- that the heads
of these nomades are remarkable for the greater
development of the jaws and cheekbones rather
than those of the head; -- and that they have
a secret language of their own -- an English
"cuze-cat" or "slang" as it is called -- for the
concealment of their designs: these are points
of coincidence so striking that, when placed be-
fore the mind, make us marvel that the analogy
should have remained thus long unnoticed.
The resemblance once discovered, however,
becomes of great service in enabling us to use
the moral characteristics of the nomade races
of other countries, as a means of comprehending
the more readily those of the vagabonds and
outcasts of our own. Let us therefore, before
entering upon the subject in hand, briefly run
over the distinctive, moral, and intellectual fea-
tures of the wandering tribes in general.
The nomad then is distinguished from the
civilized man by his repugnance to regular
and continuous labour -- by his want of provi-
dence in laying up a store for the future -- by
his inability to perceive consequences ever so
slightly removed from immediate apprehension
-- by his passion for stupefying herbs and roots,
and, when possible, for intoxicating fermented
liquors -- by his extraordinary powers of enduring
privation -- by his comparative insensibility to
pain -- by an immoderate love of gaming, fre-
quently risking his own personal liberty upon a
single cast -- by his love of libidinous dances --
Column 2
by the pleasure he experiences in witnessing the
suffering of sentient creatures -- by his delight in
warfare and all perilous sports -- by his desire
for vengeance -- by the looseness of his notions
as to property -- by the absence of chastity
among his women, and his disregard of female
honour -- and lastly, by his vague sense of reli-
gion -- his rude idea of a Creator, and utter
absence of all appreciation of the mercy of the
Divine Spirit.
Srange to say, despite its privations, its dan-
gers, and its hardships, those who have once
adopted the savage and wandering mode of life,
rarely abandon it. There are countless exam-
ples of white men adopting all the usages of
the Indian hunter, but there is scarcely one
example of the Indian hunter or trapper adopt-
ing the steady and regular habits of civilized
life; indeed, the various missionaries who have
visited nomade races have found their labours
utterly unavailing, so long as a wandering life
continued, and have succeeded in bestowing
the elements of civilization, only on those
compelled by circumstances to adopt a settled
habitation.
The nomadic races of England are of many distinct kinds -- from the habitual vagrant -- half-beggar, half-thief -- sleeping in barns, tents, and casual wards -- to the mechanic on tramp, obtaining his bed and supper from the trade societies in the different towns, on his way to seek work. Between these two extremes there are several mediate varieties -- consisting of pedlars, showmen, harvest-men, and all that large class who live by either selling, showing, or doing something through the country. These are, so to speak, the rural nomads -- not confining their wanderings to any one parti- cular locality, but ranging often from one end of the land to the other. Besides these, there are the urban and suburban wanderers, or those who follow some itinerant occupation in and round about the large towns. Such are, in the metropolis more particularly, the pick- pockets -- the beggars -- the prostitutes -- the street-sellers -- the street-performers -- the cab- men -- the coachmen -- the watermen -- the sailors and such like. In each of these classes -- according as they partake more or less of the purely vagabond, doing nothing whatsoever for their living, but moving from place to place preying upon the earnings of the more indus- trious portion of the community, so will the attributes of the nomade tribes be found to be more or less marked in them. Whether it be that in the mere act of wandering, there is a greater determination of blood to the surface of the body, and consequently a less quantity sent to the brain, the muscles being thus nourished at the expense of the mind, I leave physiologists to say. But certainly be the phy- sical cause what it may, we must all allow that in each of the classes above-mentioned, there is
Those who obtain their living in the streets of the metropolis are a very large and varied class; indeed, the means resorted to in order "to pick up a crust," as the people call it, in the public thoroughfares (and such in many instances it literally is,) are so multifarious that the mind is long baffled in its attempts to reduce them to scientific order or classification.
It would appear, however, that the street-
people may be all arranged under six distinct
genera or kinds.
These are severally:
I.
II.
III. Street-Finders.
IV. Street-Performers, Artists, and Showmen.
V. Street-Artizans, or Working
VI.
The first of these divisions -- the Street- Sellers -- includes many varieties; viz. --
1. The Street-sellers of Fish, &c. -- "wet," "dry,"
and shell-fish -- and poultry, game, and cheese.
2. The Street-sellers of Vegetables, fruit (both
"green" and "dry"), flowers, trees, shrubs,
seeds, and roots, and "green stuff" (as water-
cresses, chickweed and grun'sel, and turf).
3. The Street-sellers of Eatables and Drinkables, -- including the vendors of fried fish, hot eels,
pickled whelks, sheep's trotters, ham sandwiches,
peas'-soup, hot green peas, penny pies, plum
"duff," meat-puddings, baked potatoes, spice-
cakes, muffins and crumpets, Chelsea buns,
sweetmeats, brandy-balls, cough drops, and cat
and dog's meat -- such constituting the principal
eatables sold in the street; while under the head
of street-drinkables may be specified tea and
coffee, ginger-beer, lemonade, hot wine, new milk
from the cow, asses milk, curds and whey, and
occasionally water.
4. The Street-sellers of Stationery, Literature,
and the Fine Arts -- among whom are comprised
the flying stationers, or standing and running
patterers; the long-song-sellers; the wall-song-
sellers (or "pinners-up," as they are technically
termed); the ballad sellers; the vendors of play-
bills, second editions of newspapers, back num-
bers of periodicals and old books, almanacks,
pocket books, memorandum books, note paper,
sealing-wax, pens, pencils, stenographic cards,
valentines, engravings, manuscript music,
images, and gelatine poetry cards.
5. The Street-sellers of Manufactured Articles,
Column 2
which class comprises a large number of indi-
viduals, as, (a) the vendors of chemical articles
of manufacture -- viz., blacking, lucifers, corn-
salves, grease-removing compositions, plating-
balls, poison for rats, crackers, detonating-balls,
and cigar-lights. (b) The vendors of metal
articles of manufacture -- razors and pen-knives,
tea-trays, dog-collars, and key-rings, hardware,
bird-cages, small coins, medals, jewellery, tin-
ware, tools, card-counters, red-herring-toasters,
trivets, gridirons, and Dutch ovens. (c) The
vendors of china and stone articles of manufac-
ture -- as cups and saucers, jugs, vases, chimney
ornaments, and stone fruit. (d) The vendors of
linen, cotton, and silken articles of manufacture
-- as sheeting, table-covers, cotton, tapes and
thread, boot and stay-laces, haberdashery, pre-
tended smuggled goods, shirt-buttons, etc., etc.;
and (e) the vendors of miscellaneous articles of
manufacture -- as cigars, pipes, and snuff-boxes,
spectacles, combs, "lots," rhubarb, sponges,
wash-leather, paper-hangings, dolls, Bristol toys,
sawdust, and pin-cushions.
6. The Street-sellers of Second-hand Articles, of whom there are again four separate classes;
as (a) those who sell old metal articles -- viz.
old knives and forks, keys, tin-ware, tools, and
marine stores generally; (b) those who sell old
linen articles -- as old sheeting for towels; (c)
those who sell old glass and crockery -- including
bottles, old pans and pitchers, old looking
glasses, &c.; and (d) those who sell old miscel-
laneous articles -- as old shoes, old clothes, old
saucepan lids, &c., &c.
7. The Street-sellers of Live Animals -- including
the dealers in dogs, squirrels, birds, gold and
silver fish, and tortoises.
8. The Street-sellers of Mineral Productions and
Curiosities -- as red and white sand, silver sand,
coals, coke, salt, spar ornaments, and shells.
These, so far as my experience goes, exhaust
the whole class of street-sellers, and they appear
to constitute nearly three-fourths of the entire
number of individuals obtaining a subsistence in
the streets of London.
The next class are the
which denomination come the purchasers of hare-
skins, old clothes, old umbrellas, bottles, glass,
broken metal, rags, waste paper, and dripping.
After these we have the Street-Finders, or those who, as I said before, literally "pick up" their living in the public thoroughfares. They are the "pure" pickers, or those who live by gather- ing dogs'-dung; the cigar-end finders, or " hard- ups," as they are called, who collect the refuse pieces of smoked cigars from the gutters, and having dried them, sell them as tobacco to the very poor; the dredgermen or coal-finders; the mud-larks, the bone-grubbers; and the sewer- hunters.
Under the fourth division, or that of the
Street-Performers, Artists, and Show- men, are likewise many distinct callings.
1. The Street-Performers, who admit of being
classified into (a) mountebanks -- or those who
enact puppet-shows, as Punch and Judy, the fan-
2. The Street Showmen, including shows of
(a) extraordinary persons -- as giants, dwarfs,
Albinoes, spotted boys, and pig-faced ladies.
(b) Extraordinary animals -- as alligators, calves,
horses and pigs with six legs or two heads, in-
dustrious fleas, and happy families. (c) Philo-
sophic instruments -- as the microscope, telescope,
thaumascope. (d) Measuring-machines -- as
weighing, lifting, measuring, and striking ma-
chines; and (e) miscellaneous shows -- such as
peep-shows, glass ships, mechanical figures,
wax-work shows, pugilistic shows, and fortune-
telling apparatus.
3. The Street-Artists -- as black profile-cutters,
blind paper-cutters, "screevers" or draughts-
men in coloured chalks on the pavement, writers
without hands, and readers without eyes.
4. The Street Dancers -- as street Scotch girls,
sailors, slack and tight rope dancers, dancers on
stilts, and comic dancers.
5. The Street Musicians -- as the street bands
(English and German), players of the guitar,
harp, bagpipes, hurdy-gurdy, dulcimer, musical
bells, cornet, tom-tom, &c.
6. The Street Singers, as the singers of glees,
ballads, comic songs, nigger melodies, psalms,
serenaders, reciters, and improvisatori.
7. The Proprietors of Street Games, as swings,
highflyers, roundabouts, puff-and-darts, rifle
shooting, down the dolly, spin-'em-rounds, prick
the garter, thimble-rig, etc.
Then comes the Fifth Division of the Street-
Folk, viz., the Street-Artizans, or Working
These may be severally arranged into three
distinct groups -- (1) Those who make things in
the streets; (2) Those who mend things in the
streets; and (3) Those who make things at home and sell them in the streets.
1. Of those who make things in the streets there
are the following varieties: (a) the metal
workers -- such as toasting-fork makers, pin
makers, engravers, tobacco-stopper makers.
(b) The textile-workers -- stocking-weavers, cab-
bage-net makers, night-cap knitters, doll-dress
knitters. (c) The miscellaneous workers, -- the
wooden spoon makers, the leather brace and garter
makers, the printers, and the glass-blowers.
2. Those who mend things in the streets, consist
of broken china and glass menders, clock menders,
umbrella menders, kettle menders, chair menders,
grease removers, hat cleaners, razor and knife
grinders, glaziers, travelling bell hangers, and
knife cleaners.
3. Those who make things at home and sell them
in the streets, are (a) the wood workers -- as the
makers of clothes-pegs, clothes-props, skewers,
needle-cases, foot-stools and clothes-horses,
chairs and tables, tea-caddies, writing-desks,
drawers, work-boxes, dressing-cases, pails and
tubs. (b) The trunk, hat, and bonnet-box
makers, and the cane and rush basket makers.
(c) The toy makers -- such as Chinese roarers,
children's windmills, flying birds and fishes,
feathered cocks, black velvet cats and sweeps,
paper houses, cardboard carriages, little copper
pans and kettles, tiny tin fireplaces, children's
watches, Dutch dolls, buy-a-brooms, and gutta-
percha heads. (d) The apparel makers -- viz.,
the makers of women's caps, boys and men's
cloth caps, night-caps, straw bonnets, children's
dresses, watch-pockets, bonnet shapes, silk
bonnets, and gaiters. (e) The metal workers, --
as the makers of fire-guards, bird-cages, the
wire workers. (f) The miscellaneous workers
-- or makers of ornaments for stoves, chimney
ornaments, artificial flowers in pots and in nose-
gays, plaster-of-Paris night-shades, brooms,
brushes, mats, rugs, hearthstones, firewood, rush
matting, and hassocks.
Of the last division, or
1. The Cleansers -- such as scavengers, night-
men, flushermen, chimney-sweeps, dustmen,
crossing-sweepers, "street-orderlies," labourers
to sweeping-machines and to watering-carts.
2. The Lighters and Waterers -- or the turn-
cocks and the lamplighters.
3. The Street-Advertisers -- viz., the bill-
stickers, bill-deliverers, boardmen, men to adver-
tising vans, and wall and pavement stencillers.
4. The Street-Servants -- as horse holders, link-
men, coach-hirers, street-porters, shoe-blacks.
The number of costermongers, -- that it is to say, of those street-sellers attending the London "green" and "fish markets," -- appears to be, from the best data at my command, now 30,000 men, women, and children. The census of 1841 gives only 2,045 "hawkers, hucksters, and ped- lars," in the metropolis, and no costermongers or street-sellers, or street-performers at all. This number is absurdly small, and its absurdity is accounted for by the fact that not one in twenty of the costermongers, or of the people with whom they lodged, troubled themselves to fill up the census returns -- the majority of them being un- able to read and write, and others distrustful of the purpose for which the returns were wanted.
The costermongering class extends itself
yearly; and it is computed that for the last five
years it has increased considerably faster than
the general metropolitan population. This in-
crease is derived partly from all the children of
costermongers following the father's trade, but
chiefly from working men, such as the servants
of greengrocers or of innkeepers, when out of
The great discrepancy between the govern-
ment returns and the accounts of the coster-
mongers themselves, concerning the number of
people obtaining a living by the sale of fish,
fruit, and vegetables, in the streets of London,
caused me to institute an inquiry at the several
metropolitan markets concerning the number of
street-sellers attending them: the following is
the result:
During the summer months and fruit season,
the average number of costermongers attending
Covent-garden market is about 2,500 per market-
day. In the strawberry season there are nearly
double as many, there being, at that time, a large
number of Jews who come to buy; during that
period, on a Saturday morning, from the com-
mencement to the close of the market, as many
as 4,000 costers have been reckoned purchas-
ing at Covent-garden. Through the winter
season, however, the number of costermongers
does not exceed upon the average 1,000 per
market morning. About one-tenth of the fruit
and vegetables of the least expensive kind sold
at this market is purchased by the costers.
Some of the better class of costers, who have
their regular customers, are very particular as
to the quality of the articles they buy; but
others are not so particular; so long as they
can get things cheap, I am informed, they do
not care much about the quality. The Irish
more especially look out for damaged articles,
which they buy at a low price. One of my
informants told me that the costers were the
best customers to the growers, inasmuch as
when the market is flagging on account of the
weather, they (the costers) wait and make their
purchases. On other occasions, such as fine
mornings, the costers purchase as early as others.
There is no trust given to them -- to use the
words of one of my informants, they are such
slippery customers; here to-day and gone
to-morrow.
At Leadenhall market, during the winter
months, there are from 70 to 100 costermongers
general attendants; but during the summer not
much more than one-half that number make
their appearance. Their purchases consist of
warren-rabbits, poultry, and game, of which
about one-eighth of the whole amount brought
to this market is bought by them. When the
market is slack, and during the summer, when
there is "no great call" for game, etc., the
costers attending Leadenhall-market turn their
hand to crockery, fruit, and fish.
The costermongers frequenting Spitalfields-
market average all the year through from 700
to 1,000 each market-day. They come from all
parts, as far as Edmonton, Edgeware, and Tot-
tenham; Highgate, Hampstead, and even from
Greenwich and Lewisham. Full one-third of
Column 2
the produce of this market is purchased by
them.
The number of costermongers attending the
Borough-market is about 250 during the fruit
season, after which time they decrease to about
200 per market morning. About one-sixth of
the produce that comes into this market is
purchased by the costermongers. One gentle-
man informed me, that the salesmen might shut
up their shops were it not for these men. "In
fact," said another, "I don't know what would
become of the fruit without them."
The costers at Billingsgate-market, daily,
number from 3,000 to 4,000 in winter, and about
2,500 in summer. A leading salesman told me
that he would rather have an order from a coster-
monger than a fishmonger; for the one paid ready
money, while the other required credit. The
same gentleman assured me, that the coster-
mongers bought excellent fish, and that very
largely. They themselves aver that they pur-
chase half the fish brought to Billingsgate --
some fish trades being entirely in their hands.
I ascertained, however, from the authorities at
Billingsgate, and from experienced salesmen,
that of the quantity of fish conveyed to that
great mart, the costermongers bought one-
third; another third was sent into the country;
and another disposed of to the fishmongers, and
to such hotel-keepers, or other large pur-
chasers, as resorted to Billingsgate.
The salesmen at the several markets all
agreed in stating that no trust was given to the
costermongers. "Trust them!" exclaimed one,
"O, certainly, as far as I can see them."
Now, adding the above figures together, we have
the subjoined sum for the gross number of
| Billingsgate-market | 3,500 |
| Covent-garden | 4,000 |
| Spitalfields | 1,000 |
| Borough | 250 |
| Leadenhall | 100 |
| 9,350 |
Besides these, I am credibly informed, that it
may be assumed there are full 1,000 men who
are unable to attend market, owing to the dissi-
pation of the previous night; another 1,000 are
absent owing to their having "stock on hand,"
and so requiring no fresh purchases; and fur-
ther, it may be estimated that there are at least
2,000 boys in London at work for costers, at
half profits, and who consequently have no occa-
sion to visit the markets. Hence, putting these
numbers together, we arrive at the conclusion
that there are in London upwards of 13,000
street-sellers, dealing in fish, fruit, vegetables,
game, and poultry alone. To be on the safe
side, however, let us assume the number of Lon-
don costermongers to be 12,000, and that one-
half of these are married and have two children
(which from all accounts appears to be about the
proportion); and then we have 30,000 for the
Large as this number may seem, still I am
satisfied it is rather within than beyond the
truth. In order to convince myself of its accu-
racy, I caused it to be checked in several ways.
In the first place, a survey was made as to the
number of stalls in the streets of London -- forty-
six miles of the principal thoroughfares were
travelled over, and an account taken of the
"standings." Thus it was found that there were
upon an average upwards of fourteen stalls to
the mile, of which five-sixths were fish and fruit-
stalls. Now, according to the Metropolitan
Police Returns, there are 2,000 miles of street
throughout London, and calculating that the
stalls through the whole of the metropolis run
upon an average only four to the mile, we shall
thus find that there are 8,000 stalls altogether
in London; of these we may reckon that at least
6,000 are fish and fruit-stalls. I am informed,
on the best authority, that twice as many costers
"go rounds" as have standings; hence we come
to the conclusion that there are 18,000 itinerant
and stationary street-sellers of fish, vegetables,
and fruit, in the metropolis; and reckoning the
same proportion of wives and children as before,
we have thus 45,000 men, women, and children,
obtaining a living in this manner. Further,
"to make assurance doubly sure," the street-
markets throughout London were severally
visited, and the number of street-sellers at each
taken down on the spot. These gave a grand
total of 3,801, of which number two-thirds were
dealers in fish, fruit, and vegetables; and reckon-
ing that twice as many costers again were on
their rounds, we thus make the total number of
London costermongers to be 11,403, or calcu-
lating men, women, and children, 34,209. It
would appear, therefore, that if we estimate the
gross number of individuals subsisting on the
sale of fish, fruit, and vegetables, in the streets
of London, at between thirty and forty thousand,
we shall not be very wide of the truth.
But, great as is this number, still the coster-
mongers are only a portion of the street-folk.
Besides these, there are, as we have seen, many
other large classes obtaining their livelihood in
the streets. The street musicians, for instance,
are said to number 1,000, and the old clothes-
men the same. There are supposed to be at
the least 500 sellers of water-cresses; 200 cof-
fee-stalls; 300 cats-meat men; 250 ballad-
singers; 200 play-bill sellers; from 800 to
1,000 bone-grubbers and mud-larks; 1,000
crossing-sweepers; another thousand chimney-
sweeps, and the same number of turncocks
and lamp-lighters; all of whom, together with
the street-performers and showmen, tinkers,
chair, umbrella, and clock-menders, sellers
of bonnet-boxes, toys, stationery, songs, last
dying-speeches, tubs, pails, mats, crockery,
blacking, lucifers, corn-salves, clothes-pegs,
brooms, sweetmeats, razors, dog-collars, dogs,
birds, coals, sand, -- scavengers, dustmen, and
others, make up, it may be fairly assumed,
Column 2
full thirty thousand adults, so that, reckoning
men, women, and children, we may truly say
that there are upwards of fifty thousand indi-
viduals, or about a fortieth-part of the entire
population of the metropolis getting their living
in the streets.
Now of all modes of obtaining subsistence,
that of street-selling is the most precarious.
Continued wet weather deprives those who
depend for their bread upon the number of
people frequenting the public thoroughfares of
all means of living; and it is painful to think
of the hundreds belonging to this class in the
the metropolis who are reduced to starvation by
three or four days successive rain. Moreover,
in the winter, the street-sellers of fruit and
vegetables are cut off from the ordinary means
of gaining their livelihood, and, consequently,
they have to suffer the greatest privations at a
time when the severity of the season demands
the greatest amount of physical comforts. To
expect that the increased earnings of the sum-
mer should be put aside as a provision against
the deficiencies of the winter, is to expect that
a precarious occupation should beget provident
habits, which is against the nature of things,
for it is always in those callings which are the
most uncertain, that the greatest amount of im-
providence and intemperance are found to exist.
It is not the well-fed man, be it observed, but
the starving one that is in danger of surfeiting
himself.
Moreover, when the religious, moral, and
intellectual degradation of the great majority of
these fifty thousand people is impressed upon
us, it becomes positively appalling to con-
template the vast amount of vice, ignorance
and want, existing in these days in the very
heart of our land. The public have but to
read the following plain unvarnished account of
the habits, amusements, dealings, education,
politics, and religion of the London coster-
mongers in the nineteenth century, and then
to say whether they think it safe -- even if it be
thought fit -- to allow men, women, and chil-
dren to continue in such a state.
tinct characters of people -- people differing as
widely from each in tastes, habits, thoughts
and creed, as one nation from another. Of
these the costermongers form by far the largest
and certainly the mostly broadly marked class.
They appear to be a distinct race -- perhaps,
originally, of Irish extraction -- seldom asso-
ciating with any other of the street-folks, and
being all known to each other. The " pat-
terers," or the men who cry the last dying-
speeches, &c. in the street, and those who help
off their wares by long harrangues in the public
thoroughfares, are again a separate class. These,
to use their own term, are "the aristocracy of
the street-sellers," despising the costers for
Such are the several varieties of street-folk,
intellectually considered -- looked at in a national
point of view, they likewise include many dis-
tinct people. Among them are to be found the
Irish fruit-sellers; the Jew clothesmen; the
Italian organ boys, French singing women,
the German brass bands, the Dutch buy-a-
broom girls, the Highland bagpipe players,
and the Indian crossing-sweepers -- all of whom
I here shall treat of in due order.
The costermongering class or order has also
its many varieties. These appear to be in the
following proportions: -- One-half of the entire
class are costermongers proper, that is to say,
the calling with them is hereditary, and perhaps
has been so for many generations; while the
other half is composed of three-eighths Irish,
and one-eighth mechanics, tradesmen, and Jews.
Under the term "costermonger" is here in-
cluded only such "street-sellers" as deal in fish,
fruit, and vegetables, purchasing their goods at
the wholesale "green" and fish markets. Of these
some carry on their business at the same sta-
tionary stall or standing" in the street, while
others go on "rounds." The itinerant coster-
mongers, as contradistinguished from the sta-
tionary street-fishmongers and greengrocers, have
in many instances regular rounds, which they go
daily, and which extend from two to ten miles.
The longest are those which embrace a suburban
Column 2
part; the shortest are through streets thickly peo-
pled by the poor, where duly to "work" a single
street consumes, in some instances, an hour.
There are also "chance" rounds. Men " work-
ing" these carry their wares to any part in which
they hope to find customers. The costermongers,
moreover, diversify their labours by occasionally
going on a country round, travelling on these
excursions, in all directions, from thirty to ninety
and even a hundred miles from the metropolis.
Some, again, confine their callings chiefly to the
neighbouring races and fairs.
Of all the characteristics attending these di-
versities of traders, I shall treat severally.
I may here premise, that the regular or
"thorough-bred costermongers," repudiate the
numerous persons who sell only nuts or oranges
in the streets, whether at a fixed stall, or any
given locality, or who hawk them through the
thoroughfares or parks. They repudiate also
a number of Jews, who confine their street-
trading to the sale of "coker-nuts" on Sundays,
vended from large barrows. Nor do they rank
with themselves the individuals who sell tea and
coffee in the streets, or such condiments as
peas-soup, sweetmeats, spice-cakes, and the
like; those articles not being purchased at the
markets. I often heard all such classes called
"the illegitimates."
"
smart costermonger to me, "that I know of
in my own district, I should say there's now
more than 1,000 costers in London that were
once mechanics or labourers. They are driven
to it as a last resource, when they can't get
work at their trade. They don't do well, at least
four out of five, or three out of four don't.
They're not up to the dodges of the business.
They go to market with fear, and don't know
how to venture a bargain if one offers. They're
inferior salesmen too, and if they have fish
left that won't keep, it's a dead loss to them,
for they aren't up to the trick of selling it
cheap at a distance where the coster ain't known;
or of quitting it to another, for candle-light sale,
cheap, to the Irish or to the `lushingtons,' that
haven't a proper taste for fish. Some of these
poor fellows lose every penny. They're mostly
middle-aged when they begin costering. They'll
generally commence with oranges or herrings.
We pity them. We say, `Poor fellows! they'll
find it out by-and-bye.' It's awful to see some
poor women, too, trying to pick up a living in
the streets by selling nuts or oranges. It's
awful to see them, for they can't set about it
right; besides that, there's too many before they
start. They don't find a living, it's only another
way of starving."
The earliest record of London cries is, according to Mr. Charles Knight, in Lydgate's poem of "London Lyckpeny," which is as old as the days of Henry V., or about 430
It is not my intention, as my inquiries are
directed to the present condition of the coster-
mongers, to dwell on this part of the question,
but some historical notice of so numerous a body
is indispensable. I shall confine myself there-
fore to show from the elder dramatists, how
the costermongers flourished in the days of
Elizabeth and James I.
"Virtue," says Shakespeare, "is of so little
regard in these coster-monger times, that true
valour is turned bear-herd." Costermonger
times are as old as any trading times of
which our history tells; indeed, the stationary
costermonger of our own day is a legitimate
descendant of the tradesmen of the olden time,
who stood by their shops with their open case-
ments, loudly inviting buyers by praises of their
wares, and by direct questions of "What d'ye
buy? What d'ye lack?"
Ben Jonson makes his Morose, who hated all
noises, and sought for a silent wife, enter "upon
divers treaties with the fish-wives and orange-
women," to moderate their clamour; but Morose, above all other noisy people, "cannot endure a
costard-monger; he swoons if he hear one."
In Ford's "Sun's Darling" I find the fol-
lowing: "Upon my life he means to turn
costermonger, and is projecting how to forestall
the market. I shall cry pippins rarely."
In Beaumont and Fletcher's "Scornful Lady"
is the following:
"Pray, sister, do not laugh; you'll anger him,
And then he'll rail like a rude costermonger."
Dr. Johnson, gives the derivation of costard-
monger (the orthography he uses), as derived
from the sale of apples or costards, "round
and bulky like the head;" and he cites Burton
as an authority: "Many country vicars," writes
Burton, "are driven to shifts, and if our great
patrons hold us to such conditions, they will
make us costard-mongers, graziers, or sell ale."
"The costard-monger," says Mr. Charles
Knight, in his "London," "was originally an
apple-seller, whence his name, and, from the
mention of him in the old dramatists, he appears
to have been frequently an Irishman."
In Ireland the word "costermonger" is almost
unknown.
A brief account of the cries once prevalent
among the street-sellers will show somewhat
significantly the change in the diet or regale-
ments of those who purchase their food in the
street. Some of the articles are not vended in
the public thoroughfares now, while others are
still sold, but in different forms.
"Hot sheep's feet," for instance, were cried
in the streets in the time of Henry V.; they are
Column 2
now sold cold, at the doors of the lower-priced
theatres, and at the larger public-houses. Among
the street cries, the following were common
prior to the wars of the Roses: "Ribs of
beef," -- "Hot peascod," -- and "Pepper and
saffron." These certainly indicate a different
street diet from that of the present time.
The following are more modern, running from
Elizabeth's days down to our own. "Pippins,"
and, in the times of Charles II., and subse-
quently, oranges were sometimes cried as
"Orange pips," -- "Fair lemons and oranges;
oranges and citrons," -- "New Wall-fleet oys-
ters," ["fresh" fish was formerly cried as
"new,"] -- "New-river water," [I may here
mention that water-carriers still ply their trade
in parts of Hampstead,] -- "Rosemary and
lavender," -- "Small coals," [a cry rendered
almost poetical by the character, career, and
pitiful end, through a practical joke, of Tom
Britton, the "small-coal man,"] -- "Pretty
pins, pretty women," -- "Lilly-white vinegar,"
-- "Hot wardens" (pears) -- "Hot codlings," --
and lastly the greasy-looking beverage which
Charles Lamb's experience of London at early
morning satisfied him was of all preparations
the most grateful to the stomach of the then
existing climbing-boys -- viz., "Sa-loop." I
may state, for the information of my younger
readers, that saloop (spelt also "salep" and
"salop") was prepared, as a powder, from
the root of the Orchis mascula, or Red-handed
Orchis, a plant which grows luxuriantly in our
meadows and pastures, flowering in the spring,
though never cultivated to any extent in this
country; that required for the purposes of com-
merce was imported from India. The saloop-
stalls were superseded by the modern coffee-stalls.
There were many other cries, now obsolete,
but what I have cited were the most common.
Political economy teaches us that, between the two great classes of producers and con- sumers, stand the distributors -- or dealers -- saving time, trouble, and inconvenience to, the one in disposing of, and to the other in purchas- ing, their commodities.
But the distributor was not always a part and
parcel of the economical arrangements of the
State. In olden times, the producer and con-
sumer were brought into immediate contact, at
markets and fairs, holden at certain intervals.
The inconvenience of this mode of operation,
however, was soon felt; and the pedlar, or
wandering distributor, sprang up as a means of
carrying the commodities to those who were
unable to attend the public markets at the
appointed time. Still the pedlar or wandering
distributor was not without his disadvantages.
He only came at certain periods, and commodi-
ties were occasionally required in the interim.
Hence the shopkeeper, or stationary distributor,
was called into existence, so that the consumer
might obtain any commodity of the producer at
But the itinerant tradesman or street-seller is
still further distinguished from the regular fixed
dealer -- the stallkeeper from the shopkeeper --
the street-wareman from the warehouseman, by
the arts they respectively employ to attract
custom. The street-seller cries his goods aloud
at the head of his barrow; the enterprising
tradesman distributes bills at the door of his
shop. The one appeals to the ear, the other to
the eye. The cutting costermonger has a drum
and two boys to excite attention to his stock;
the spirited shopkeeper has a column of adver-
tisements in the morning newspapers. They are
but different means of attaining the same end.
The street sellers are to be seen in the greatest numbers at the London street markets on a Saturday night. Here, and in the shops imme- diately adjoining, the working-classes generally purchase their Sunday's dinner; and after pay-time on Saturday night, or early on Sunday morning, the crowd in the New-cut, and the Brill in particular, is almost impass- able. Indeed, the scene in these parts has more of the character of a fair than a market. There are hundreds of stalls, and every stall has its one or two lights; either it is Column 2illuminated by the intense white light of the new self-generating gas-lamp, or else it is brightened up by the red smoky flame of the old- fashioned grease lamp. One man shows off his yellow haddock with a candle stuck in a bundle of firewood; his neighbour makes a candlestick of a huge turnip, and the tallow gutters over its sides; whilst the boy shouting "Eight a penny, stunning pears!" has rolled his dip in a thick coat of brown paper, that flares away with the candle. Some stalls are crimson with the fire shining through the holes beneath the baked chestnut stove; others have handsome octo- hedral lamps, while a few have a candle shining through a sieve: these, with the sparkling ground-glass globes of the tea-dealers' shops, and the butchers' gaslights streaming and flut- tering in the wind, like flags of flame, pour forth such a flood of light, that at a distance the at- mosphere immediately above the spot is as lurid as if the street were on fire.
The pavement and the road are crowded with
purchasers and street-sellers. The housewife
in her thick shawl, with the market-basket on
her arm, walks slowly on, stopping now to look
at the stall of caps, and now to cheapen a bunch
of greens. Little boys, holding three or four
onions in their hand, creep between the people,
wriggling their way through every interstice, and
asking for custom in whining tones, as if seeking
charity. Then the tumult of the thousand dif-
ferent cries of the eager dealers, all shouting at
the top of their voices, at one and the same
time, is almost bewildering. "So-old again,"
roars one. "Chestnuts all 'to, a penny a score,"
bawls another. "An 'aypenny a skin, blacking,"
squeaks a boy. "Buy, buy, buy, buy, buy --
bu-u-uy!" cries the butcher. "Half-quire of
paper for a penny," bellows the street stationer.
"An 'aypenny a lot ing-uns." "Twopence a
pound grapes." "Three a penny Yarmouth
bloaters." "Who'll buy a bonnet for four-
pence?" "Pick 'em out cheap here! three
pair for a halfpenny, bootlaces." "Now's your
time! beautiful whelks, a penny a lot." "Here's
ha'p'orths," shouts the perambulating confec-
tioner. "Come and look at 'em! here's
toasters!" bellows one with a Yarmouth
bloater stuck on a toasting-fork. "Penny a lot,
fine russets," calls the apple woman: and so
the Babel goes on.
One man stands with his red-edged mats
hanging over his back and chest, like a herald's
coat; and the girl with her basket of walnuts
lifts her brown-stained fingers to her mouth, as
she screams, "Fine warnuts! sixteen a penny,
fine war-r-nuts." A bootmaker, to "ensure
custom," has illuminated his shop-front with
a line of gas, and in its full glare stands a blind
beggar, his eyes turned up so as to show
only "the whites," and mumbling some
begging rhymes, that are drowned in the shrill
notes of the bamboo-flute-player next to him.
The boy's sharp cry, the woman's cracked
voice, the gruff, hoarse shout of the man,
are all mingled together. Sometimes an Irish-
Then the sights, as you elbow your way
through the crowd, are equally multifarious.
Here is a stall glittering with new tin sauce-
pans; there another, bright with its blue and
yellow crockery, and sparkling with white
glass. Now you come to a row of old shoes
arranged along the pavement; now to a stand
of gaudy tea-trays; then to a shop with red
handkerchiefs and blue checked shirts, flutter-
ing backwards and forwards, and a counter
built up outside on the kerb, behind which
are boys beseeching custom. At the door of
a tea-shop, with its hundred white globes of
light, stands a man delivering bills, thanking
the public for past favours, and "defying com-
petition." Here, alongside the road, are some
half-dozen headless tailors' dummies, dressed in
Chesterfields and fustian jackets, each labelled,
"Look at the prices," or "Observe the quality."
After this is a butcher's shop, crimson and white
with meat piled up to the first-floor, in front
of which the butcher himself, in his blue coat,
walks up and down, sharpening his knife on the
steel that hangs to his waist. A little further
on stands the clean family, begging; the father
with his head down as if in shame, and a box
of lucifers held forth in his hand -- the boys in
newly-washed pinafores, and the tidily got-up
mother with a child at her breast. This stall is
green and white with bunches of turnips -- that
red with apples, the next yellow with onions,
and another purple with pickling cabbages.
One minute you pass a man with an umbrella
turned inside up and full of prints; the
next, you hear one with a peepshow of Ma-
zeppa, and Paul Jones the pirate, describing
the pictures to the boys looking in at the
little round windows. Then is heard the
sharp snap of the percussion-cap from the crowd
of lads firing at the target for nuts; and the
moment afterwards, you see either a black man
half-clad in white, and shivering in the cold
with tracts in his hand, or else you hear the
sounds of music from "Frazier's Circus," on
the other side of the road, and the man outside
the door of the penny concert, beseeching you to
"Be in time -- be in time!" as Mr. Somebody
is just about to sing his favourite song of the
"Knife Grinder." Such, indeed, is the riot,
the struggle, and the scramble for a living,
that the confusion and uproar of the New-
cut on Saturday night have a bewildering and
saddening effect upon the thoughtful mind.
Each salesman tries his utmost to sell his
wares, tempting the passers-by with his bar-
gains. The boy with his stock of herbs offers
"a double 'andful of fine parsley for a penny;"
the man with the donkey-cart filled with turnips
has three lads to shout for him to their utmost,
with their "Ho! ho! hi-i-i! What do you
think of this here? A penny a bunch -- hurrah
for free trade! Here's your turnips!" Until
Column 2
it is seen and heard, we have no sense of the
scramble that is going on throughout London
for a living. The same scene takes place at the
Brill -- the same in Leather-lane -- the same in
Tottenham-court-road -- the same in Whitecross-
street; go to whatever corner of the metropolis
you please, either on a Saturday night or a
Sunday morning, and there is the same shouting
and the same struggling to get the penny profit
out of the poor man's Sunday's dinner.
Since the above description was written, the
New Cut has lost much of its noisy and brilliant
glory. In consequence of a New Police regula-
tion, "stands" or "pitches" have been forbid-
den, and each coster, on a market night, is now
obliged, under pain of the lock-up house, to
carry his tray, or keep moving with his barrow.
The gay stalls have been replaced by deal boards,
some sodden with wet fish, others stained purple
with blackberries, or brown with walnut-peel;
and the bright lamps are almost totally super-
seded by the dim, guttering candle. Even if
the pole under the tray or "shallow" is seen
resting on the ground, the policeman on duty is
obliged to interfere.
The mob of purchasers has diminished one-
half; and instead of the road being filled with
customers and trucks, the pavement and kerb-
stones are scarcely crowded.
day trade. For a few hours on the Sabbath
morning, the noise, bustle, and scramble of the
Saturday night are repeated, and but for this
opportunity many a poor family would pass a
dinnerless Sunday. The system of paying the
mechanic late on the Saturday night -- and more
particularly of paying a man his wages in a
public-house -- when he is tired with his day's
work lures him to the tavern, and there the
hours fly quickly enough beside the warm tap-
room fire, so that by the time the wife comes
for her husband's wages, she finds a large
portion of them gone in drink, and the streets
half cleared, so that the Sunday market is the
only chance of getting the Sunday's dinner.
Of all these Sunday-morning markets, the
Brill, perhaps, furnishes the busiest scene; so
that it may be taken as a type of the whole.
The streets in the neighbourhood are quiet
and empty. The shops are closed with their
different-coloured shutters, and the people round
about are dressed in the shiney cloth of the
holiday suit. There are no "cabs," and but few
omnibuses to disturb the rest, and men walk in
the road as safely as on the footpath.
As you enter the Brill the market sounds are
scarcely heard. But at each step the low hum
grows gradually into the noisy shouting, until
at last the different cries become distinct, and
the hubbub, din, and confusion of a thousand
voices bellowing at once again fill the air.
The road and footpath are crowded, as on the
over-night; the men are standing in groups,
smoking and talking; whilst the women run
The following is a list of the street-markets,
and the number of costers usually attending: --
| New-cut, Lambeth | 300 |
| Lambeth-walk | 104 |
| Walworth-road | 22 |
| Camberwell | 15 |
| Newington | 45 |
| Kent-street, Borough | 38 |
| Bermondsey | 107 |
| Union-street, Borough | 29 |
| Great Suffolk-street | 46 |
| Blackfriars-road | 58 |
| 664 |
| Brill and Chapel-st., Somers' Town | 300 |
| Camden Town | 50 |
| Hampstead-rd. and Tottenham-ct.-rd. | 333 |
| St. George's Market, Oxford-street | 177 |
| Marylebone | 37 |
| Edgeware-road | 78 |
| Crawford-street | 145 |
| Knightsbridge | 46 |
| Pimlico | 32 |
| Tothill-st. & Broad- way, Westminster | 119 |
| Drury-lane | 22 |
| Clare-street | 139 |
| Exmouth-street and Aylesbury-street, Clerken well | 142 |
| Leather-lane | 150 |
| St. John's-street | 47 |
| Old-street (St. Luke's) 46 | Whitecross-street, Cripplegate #150 |
| Islington | 79 |
| City-road | 49 |
| Shoreditch | 100 |
| Bethnal-green | 100 |
| Whitechapel | 258 |
| Mile End | 105 |
| Commercial-rd. (East) | 114 |
| Limehouse | 88 |
| Ratcliffe Highway | 122 |
| Rosemary-lane | 119 |
| 3137 |
We find, from the foregoing list of markets,
held in the various thoroughfares of the metro-
polis, that there are 10 on the Surrey side and
27 on the Middlesex side of the Thames. The
total number of hucksters attending these
Column 2
markets is 3801, giving an average of 102 to
each market.
I find it impossible to separate these two head-
ings; for the habits of the costermonger are not
domestic. His busy life is past in the markets
or the streets, and as his leisure is devoted to
the beer-shop, the dancing-room, or the theatre,
we must look for his habits to his demeanour at
those places. Home has few attractions to a
man whose life is a street-life. Even those who
are influenced by family ties and affections,
prefer to "home" -- indeed that word is rarely
mentioned among them -- the conversation,
warmth, and merriment of the beer-shop, where
they can take their ease among their "mates."
Excitement or amusement are indispensable to
uneducated men. Of beer-shops resorted to
by costermongers, and principally supported by
them, it is computed that there are 400 in
London.
Those who meet first in the beer-shop talk
over the state of trade and of the markets, while
the later comers enter at once into what may
be styled the serious business of the evening --
amusement.
Business topics are discussed in a most
peculiar style. One man takes the pipe from
his mouth and says, "Bill made a doogheno
hit this morning." "Jem," says another, to
a man just entering, "you'll stand a top o'
reeb?" "On," answers Jem, "I've had a
trosseno tol, and have been doing dab." For
an explanation of what may be obscure in
this dialogue, I must refer my readers to my
remarks concerning the language of the class.
If any strangers are present, the conversation
is still further clothed in slang, so as to be
unintelligible even to the partially initiated.
The evident puzzlement of any listener is
of course gratifying to the costermonger's
vanity, for he feels that he possesses a know-
ledge peculiarly his own.
Among the in-door amusements of the coster-
monger is card-playing, at which many of them
are adepts. The usual games are all-fours, all-
fives, cribbage, and put. Whist is known to a
few, but is never played, being considered dull
and slow. Of short whist they have not heard;
"but," said one, whom I questioned on the
subject, "if it's come into fashion, it'll soon be
among us." The play is usually for beer, but
the game is rendered exciting by bets both
among the players and the lookers-on. "I'll back
Jem for a yanepatine," says one. "Jack for a
gen," cries another. A penny is the lowest sum
laid, and five shillings generally the highest, but
a shilling is not often exceeded. "We play fair
among ourselves," said a costermonger to me --
"aye, fairer than the aristocrats -- but we'll take
in anybody else." Where it is known that the
landlord will not supply cards, "a sporting
coster" carries a pack or two with him. The
cards played with have rarely been stamped;
It has been said that there is a close resem-
blance between many of the characteristics of
a very high class, socially, and a very low class.
Those who remember the disclosures on a trial
a few years back, as to how men of rank and
wealth passed their leisure in card-playing --
many of their lives being one continued leisure
-- can judge how far the analogy holds when the
card-passion of the costermongers is described.
"Shove-halfpenny" is another game played
by them; so is "Three up." Three halfpennies
are thrown up, and when they fall all "heads"
or all "tails," it is a mark; and the man who
gets the greatest number of marks out of a
given amount -- three, or five, or more -- wins.
"Three-up" is played fairly among the coster-
mongers; out is most frequently resorted to
when strangers are present to "make a pitch,"
-- which is, in plain words, to cheat any stranger
who is rash enough to bet upon them. "This is
the way, sir," said an adept to me; "bless you, I
can make them fall as I please. If I'm playing
with Jo, and a stranger bets with Jo, why, of
course, I make Jo win." This adept illustrated
his skill to me by throwing up three halfpennies,
and, five times out of six, they fell upon the floor,
whether he threw them nearly to the ceiling or
merely to his shoulder, all heads or all tails.
The halfpence were the proper current coins --
indeed, they were my own; and the result is
gained by a peculiar position of the coins on the
fingers, and a peculiar jerk in the throwing.
There was an amusing manifestation of the
pride of art in the way in which my obliging
informant displayed his skill.
"Skittles" is another favourite amusement,
and the costermongers class themselves among
the best players in London. The game is always
for beer, but betting goes on.
A fondness for "sparring" and "boxing"
lingers among the rude members of some classes
of the working men, such as the tanners. With
the great majority of the costermongers this
fondness is still as dominant as it was among the
"higher classes," when boxers were the pets of
princes and nobles. The sparring among the
Column 2
costers is not for money, but for beer and "a
lark" -- a convenient word covering much mis-
chief. Two out of every ten landlords, whose
houses are patronised by these lovers of "the
art of self-defence," supply gloves. Some charge
2d. a night for their use; others only 1d. The
sparring seldom continues long, sometimes not
above a quarter of an hour; for the costermongers,
though excited for a while, weary of sports in
which they cannot personally participate, and in
the beer-shops only two spar at a time, though
fifty or sixty may be present. The shortness of
the duration of this pastime may be one reason
why it seldom leads to quarrelling. The stake
is usually a "top of reeb," and the winner is the
man who gives the first "noser;" a bloody nose
however is required to show that the blow was
veritably a noser. The costermongers boast of
their skill in pugilism as well as at skittles.
"We are all handy with our fists," said one man,
"and are matches, aye, and more than matches,
for anybody but reg'lar boxers. We've stuck to
the ring, too, and gone reg'lar to the fights, more
than any other men."
"Twopenny-hops" are much resorted to by
the costermongers, men and women, boys and
girls. At these dances decorum is sometimes,
but not often, violated. "The women," I was
told by one man, "doesn't show their necks as
I've seen the ladies do in them there pictures of
high life in the shop-winders, or on the stage.
Their Sunday gowns, which is their dancing
gowns, ain't made that way." At these "hops"
the clog-hornpipe is often danced, and some-
times a collection is made to ensure the per-
formance of a first-rate professor of that dance;
sometimes, and more frequently, it is volunteered
gratuitously. The other dances are jigs, "flash
jigs" -- hornpipes in fetters -- a dance rendered
popular by the success of the acted "Jack Shep-
pard" -- polkas, and country-dances, the last-
mentioned being generally demanded by the
women. Waltzes are as yet unknown to them.
Sometimes they do the "pipe-dance." For this
a number of tobacco-pipes, about a dozen, are
laid close together on the floor, and the dancer
places the toe of his boot between the different
pipes, keeping time with the music. Two of the
pipes are arranged as a cross, and the toe has to
be inserted between each of the angles, without
breaking them. The numbers present at these
"hops" vary from 30 to 100 of both sexes, their
ages being from 14 to 45, and the female sex
being slightly predominant as to the proportion
of those in attendance. At these "hops" there
is nothing of the leisurely style of dancing -- half
a glide and half a skip -- but vigorous, laborious
capering. The hours are from half-past eight to
twelve, sometimes to one or two in the morning,
and never later than two, as the costermongers
are early risers. There is sometimes a good deal
of drinking; some of the young girls being often
pressed to drink, and frequently yielding to the
temptation. From 1l. to 7l. is spent in drink at
a hop; the youngest men or lads present spend
the most, especially in that act of costermonger
The other amusements of this class of the
community are the theatre and the penny con-
cert, and their visits are almost entirely confined
to the galleries of the theatres on the Surrey-side
-- the Surrey, the Victoria, the Bower Saloon,
and (but less frequently) Astley's. Three times
a week is an average attendance at theatres and
dances by the more prosperous costermongers.
The most intelligent man I met with among
them gave me the following account. He classes
himself with the many, but his tastes are really
those of an educated man: -- "Love and murder
suits us best, sir; but within these few years I
think there's a great deal more liking for deep
tragedies among us. They set men a thinking;
but then we all consider them too long. Of Ham-
let we can make neither end nor side; and nine
out of ten of us -- ay, far more than that -- would
like it to be confined to the ghost scenes, and the
funeral, and the killing off at the last. Macbeth would be better liked, if it was only the witches
and the fighting. The high words in a tragedy
we call jaw-breakers, and say we can't tumble
to that barrikin. We always stay to the last,
because we've paid for it all, or very few costers
would see a tragedy out if any money was re-
turned to those leaving after two or three acts.
We are fond of music. Nigger music was very
much liked among us, but it's stale now. Flash
songs are liked, and sailors' songs, and patriotic
songs. Most costers -- indeed, I can't call to
mind an exception -- listen very quietly to songs
that they don't in the least understand. We
have among us translations of the patriotic French
songs. `Mourir pour la patrie' is very popular,
and so is the `Marseillaise.' A song to take hold
of us must have a good chorus." "They like
something, sir, that is worth hearing," said one of
my informants, "such as the `Soldier's Dream,'
`The Dream of Napoleon,' or `I 'ad a dream --
an 'appy dream.' "
The songs in ridicule of Marshal Haynau, and
in laudation of Barclay and Perkin's draymen,
were and are very popular among the costers;
but none are more popular than Paul Jones --
"A noble commander, Paul Jones was his name."
Among them the chorus of "Britons never shall
be slaves," is often rendered "Britons always
shall be slaves." The most popular of all songs
with the class, however, is "Duck-legged Dick,"
of which I give the first verse.
Their sports, are enjoyed the more, if they
are dangerous and require both courage and
dexterity to succeed in them. They prefer, if
crossing a bridge, to climb over the parapet, and
walk along on the stone coping. When a house
is building, rows of coster lads will climb up
the long ladders, leaning against the unslated
roof, and then slide down again, each one rest-
ing on the other's shoulders. A peep show
with a battle scene is sure of its coster audience,
and a favourite pastime is fighting with cheap
theatrical swords. They are, however, true to
each other, and should a coster, who is the hero
of his court, fall ill and go to a hospital, the
whole of the inhabitants of his quarter will visit
him on the Sunday, and take him presents of
various articles so that "he may live well."
Among the men, rat-killing is a favourite
sport. They will enter an old stable, fasten the
door and then turn out the rats. Or they will
find out some unfrequented yard, and at night
time build up a pit with apple-case boards, and
lighting up their lamps, enjoy the sport.
Nearly every coster is fond of dogs. Some
fancy them greatly, and are proud of making
them fight. If when out working, they see
a handsome stray, whether he is a "toy" or
"sporting" dog, they whip him up -- many of
the class not being very particular whether the
animals are stray or not.
Their dog fights are both cruel and frequent.
It is not uncommon to see a lad walking with
the trembling legs of a dog shivering under a
bloody handkerchief, that covers the bitten and
wounded body of an animal that has been figur-
ing at some "match." These fights take place
on the sly -- the tap-room or back-yard of a beer-
shop, being generally chosen for the purpose.
A few men are let into the secret, and they attend
to bet upon the winner, the police being care-
fully kept from the spot.
Pigeons are "fancied" to a large extent,
and are kept in lath cages on the roofs of the
houses. The lads look upon a visit to the Red-
house, Battersea, where the pigeon-shooting
takes place, as a great treat. They stand with-
out the hoarding that encloses the ground, and
watch for the wounded pigeons to fall, when a
violent scramble takes place among them, each
bird being valued at 3d. or 4d. So popular has
this sport become, that some boys take dogs
with them trained to retrieve the birds, and two
Lambeth costers attend regularly after their
morning's work with their guns, to shoot those
that escape the `shots' within.
A good pugilist is looked up to with great admi-
ration by the costers, and fighting is considered
to be a necessary part of a boy's education.
Among them cowardice in any shape is despised
To serve out a policeman is the bravest act
by which a costermonger can distinguish him-
self. Some lads have been imprisoned upwards
of a dozen times for this offence; and are con-
sequently looked upon by their companions
as martyrs. When they leave prison for such
an act, a subscription is often got up for their
benefit. In their continual warfare with the
force, they resemble many savage nations, from
the cunning and treachery they use. The lads
endeavour to take the unsuspecting "crusher"
by surprise, and often crouch at the entrance of
a court until a policeman passes, when a stone or
a brick is hurled at him, and the youngster imme-
diately disappears. Their love of revenge too,
is extreme -- their hatred being in no way
mitigated by time; they will wait for months,
following a policeman who has offended or
wronged them, anxiously looking out for an
opportunity of paying back the injury. One
boy, I was told, vowed vengeance against a
member of the force, and for six months never
allowed the man to escape his notice. At
length, one night, he saw the policeman in a
row outside a public-house, and running into
the crowd kicked him savagely, shouting at the
same time: "Now, you b -- , I've got you
at last." When the boy heard that his per-
secutor was injured for life, his joy was very
great, and he declared the twelvemonth's impri-
sonment he was sentenced to for the offence to
be "dirt cheap." The whole of the court where
the lad resided sympathized with the boy, and
vowed to a man, that had he escaped, they
would have subscribed a pad or two of dry her-
rings, to send him into the country until the
affair had blown over, for he had shown himself
a "plucky one."
It is called "plucky" to bear pain with-
out complaining. To flinch from expected
suffering is scorned, and he who does so is
sneered at and told to wear a gown, as being
more fit to be a woman. To show a disregard
for pain, a lad, when without money, will say to
his pal, "Give us a penny, and you may have
a punch at my nose." They also delight in
tattooing their chests and arms with anchors,
Column 2
and figures of different kinds. During the
whole of this painful operation, the boy will not
flinch, but laugh and joke with his admiring
companions, as if perfectly at ease.
numerous class, a youngster who is not -- what
may be safely called -- a desperate gambler. At
the age of fourteen this love of play first comes
upon the lad, and from that time until he is thirty
or so, not a Sunday passes but he is at his
stand on the gambling ground. Even if he has
no money to stake, he will loll away the morn-
ing looking on, and so borrow excitement from
the successes of others. Every attempt made
by the police, to check this ruinous system, has
been unavailing, and has rather given a gloss
of daring courage to the sport, that tends to
render it doubly attractive.
If a costermonger has an hour to spare, his
first thought is to gamble away the time. He
does not care what he plays for, so long as he
can have a chance of winning something.
Whilst waiting for a market to open, his delight
is to find out some pieman and toss him for his
stock, though, by so doing, he risks his market-
money and only chance of living, to win that
which he will give away to the first friend he
meets. For the whole week the boy will work
untiringly, spurred on by the thought of the
money to be won on the Sunday. Nothing
will damp his ardour for gambling, the most
continued ill-fortune making him even more
reckless than if he were the luckiest man alive.
Many a lad who had gone down to the gam-
bling ground, with a good warm coat upon his
back and his pocket well filled from the Satur-
day night's market, will leave it at evening
penniless and coatless, having lost all his earn-
ings, stock-money, and the better part of his
clothing. Some of the boys, when desperate
with "bad luck," borrow to the utmost limit of
their credit; then they mortgage their " king's-
man" or neck-tie, and they will even change
their cord trousers, if better than those of the
winner, so as to have one more chance at the
turn of fortune. The coldest winter's day will
not stop the Sunday's gathering on the river-
side, for the heat of play warms them in spite
of the sharp wind blowing down the Thames.
If the weather be wet, so that the half-pence
stick to the ground, they find out some railway-
arch or else a beer-shop, and having filled the
tap-room with their numbers, they muffle the
table with handkerchiefs, and play secretly.
When the game is very exciting, they will even
forget their hunger, and continue to gamble
until it is too dark to see, before they think of
eating. One man told me, that when he was
working the races with lemonade, he had often
seen in the centre of a group, composed of cos-
ters, thimble-riggers and showmen, as much as
100l. on the ground at one time, in gold and
silver. A friend of his, who had gone down in
company with him, with a pony-truck of toys,
It is perfectly immaterial to the coster with
whom he plays, whether it be a lad from the
Lambeth potteries, or a thief from the West-
minster slums. Very often, too, the gamblers
of one costermonger district, will visit those of
another, and work what is called "a plant" in
this way. One of the visitors will go before
hand, and, joining a group of gamblers, com-
mence tossing. When sufficient time has
elapsed to remove all suspicion of companion-
ship, his mate will come up and commence bet-
ting on each of his pals' throws with those stand-
ing round. By a curious quickness of hand, a
coster can make the toss tell favourably for his
wagering friend, who meets him after the play
is over in the evening, and shares the spoil.
The spots generally chosen for the Sunday's
sport are in secret places, half-hidden from the
eye of the passers, where a scout can give quick
notice of the approach of the police: in the
fields about King's-cross, or near any unfinished
railway buildings. The Mint, St. George's-fields,
Blackfriars'-road, Bethnal-green, and Maryle-
bone, are all favourite resorts. Between Lam-
beth and Chelsea, the shingle on the left side of
the Thames, is spotted with small rings of lads,
half-hidden behind the barges. One boy (of
the party) is always on the look out, and even
if a stranger should advance, the cry is given of
"Namous" or "Kool Eslop." Instantly the
money is whipped-up and pocketed, and the
boys stand chattering and laughing together.
It is never difficult for a coster to find out
where the gambling parties are, for he has only
to stop the first lad he meets, and ask him
where the "erht pu" or "three up" is going
on, to discover their whereabouts.
If during the game a cry of "Police!" should
be given by the looker-out, instantly a rush at
the money is made by any one in the group, the
costers preferring that a stranger should have
the money rather than the policeman. There
is also a custom among them, that the ruined
player should be started again by a gift of 2d. in every shilling lost, or, if the loss is heavy, a
present of four or five shillings is made; neither
is it considered at all dishonourable for the party
winning to leave with the full bloom of success
upon him.
That the description of one of these Sunday
scenes might be more truthful, a visit was paid
to a gambling-ring close to -- . Although not
twenty yards distant from the steam-boat pier,
yet the little party was so concealed among the
the coal-barges, that not a head could be seen.
The spot chosen was close to a small narrow
court, leading from the street to the water-side,
and here the lad on the look-out was stationed.
There were about thirty young fellows, some
Column 2
tall strapping youths, in the costers' cable-cord
costume, -- others, mere boys, in rags, from the
potteries, with their clothes stained with clay.
The party was hidden from the river by the
black dredger-boats on the beach; and it was so
arranged, that should the alarm be given, they
might leap into the coal-barges, and hide until
the intruder had retired. Seated on some oars
stretched across two craft, was a mortar-stained
bricklayer, keeping a look-out towards the river,
and acting as a sort of umpire in all disputes.
The two that were tossing had been playing
together since early morning; and it was easy
to tell which was the loser, by the anxious-look-
ing eye and compressed lip. He was quarrel-
some too; and if the crowd pressed upon him,
he would jerk his elbow back savagely, saying,
"I wish to C -- t you'd stand backer." The
winner, a short man, in a mud-stained canvas
jacket, and a week's yellow beard on his chin,
never spake a word beyond his "heads," or
"tails;" but his cheeks were red, and the pipe
in his mouth was unlit, though he puffed at it.
In their hands they each held a long row of
halfpence, extending to the wrist, and topped by
shillings and half-crowns. Nearly every one
round had coppers in his hands, and bets were
made and taken as rapidly as they could be
spoken. "I lost a sov. last night in less than
no time," said one man, who, with his hands in
his pockets, was looking on; "never mind -- I
musn't have no wenson this week, and try
again next Sunday."
The boy who was losing was adopting every
means to "bring back his luck again." Before
crying, he would toss up a halfpenny three
times, to see what he should call. At last,
with an oath, he pushed aside the boys round
him, and shifted his place, to see what that
would do; it had a good effect, for he won toss
after toss in a curiously fortunate way, and then
it was strange to watch his mouth gradually
relax and his brows unknit. His opponent was
a little startled, and passing his fingers through
his dusty hair, said, with a stupid laugh, "Well,
I never see the likes." The betting also began
to shift. "Sixpence Ned wins!" cried three or
four; "Sixpence he loses!" answered another;
"Done!" and up went the halfpence. " Half-
a-crown Joe loses!" -- "Here you are," answered
Joe, but he lost again. "I'll try you a `gen' "
(shilling) said a coster; "And a `rouf yenap' "
(fourpence), added the other. "Say a `exes' "
(sixpence). -- "Done!" and the betting con-
tinued, till the ground was spotted with silver
and halfpence.
"That's ten bob he's won in five minutes,"
said Joe (the loser), looking round with a forced
smile; but Ned (the winner) never spake a
word, even when he gave any change to his
antagonist; and if he took a bet, he only nodded
to the one that offered it, and threw down his
money. Once, when he picked up more than a
sovereign from the ground, that he had won in
one throw, a washed sweep, with a black rim
round his neck, said, "There's a hog!" but
When one o'clock struck, a lad left, saying,
he was "going to get an inside lining' (dinner).
The sweep asked him what he was going to
have. "A two-and-half plate, and a ha'p'orth
of smash" (a plate of soup and a ha'p'orth of
mashed potatoes), replied the lad, bounding into
the court. Nobody else seemed to care for his
dinner, for all stayed to watch the gamblers.
Every now and then some one would go up
the court to see if the lad watching for the
police was keeping a good look-out; but the
boy never deserted his post, for fear of losing
his threepence. If he had, such is the wish to
protect the players felt by every lad, that even
whilst at dinner, one of them, if he saw a police-
man pass, would spring up and rush to the
gambling ring to give notice.
When the tall youth, "Ned," had won nearly
all the silver of the group, he suddenly jerked
his gains into his coat-pocket, and saying, "I've
done," walked off, and was out of sight in an
instant. The surprise of the loser and all
around was extreme. They looked at the court
where he had disappeared, then at one another,
and at last burst out into one expression of
disgust. "There's a scurf!" said one; "He's
a regular scab," cried another; and a coster
declared that he was "a trosseno, and no mis-
take." For although it is held to be fair for
the winner to go whenever he wishes, yet such
conduct is never relished by the losers.
It was then determined that "they would
have him to rights" the next time he came to
gamble; for every one would set at him, and
win his money, and then "turn up," as he had
done.
The party was then broken up, the players
separating to wait for the new-comers that would
be sure to pour in after dinner.
to the threepenny gallery of the Coburg (better
known as "the Vic") is peculiar and almost
awful.
The long zig-zag staircase that leads to the
pay box is crowded to suffocation at least an
hour before the theatre is opened; but, on the
occasion of a piece with a good murder in it,
the crowd will frequently collect as early as
three o'clock in the afternoon. Lads stand
upon the broad wooden bannisters about 50 feet
from the ground, and jump on each others'
backs, or adopt any expedient they can think of
to obtain a good place.
The walls of the well-staircase having a
Column 2
remarkably fine echo, and the wooden floor of
the steps serving as a sounding board, the
shouting, whistling, and quarrelling of the
impatient young costers is increased tenfold.
If, as sometimes happens, a song with a chorus
is started, the ears positively ache with the din,
and when the chant has finished it seems as
though a sudden silence had fallen on the
people. To the centre of the road, and all round
the door, the mob is in a ferment of excite-
ment, and no sooner is the money-taker at his
post than the most frightful rush takes place,
every one heaving with his shoulder at the back
of the person immediately in front of him.
The girls shriek, men shout, and a nervous fear
is felt lest the massive staircase should fall in
with the weight of the throng, as it lately did
with the most terrible results. If a hat
tumbles from the top of the staircase, a hundred
hands snatch at it as it descends. When it is
caught a voice roars above the tumult, "All
right, Bill, I've got it" -- for they all seem to
know one another -- "Keep us a pitch and I'll
bring it."
To any one unaccustomed to be pressed flat
it would be impossible to enter with the mob.
To see the sight in the gallery it is better to
wait until the first piece is over. The ham-
sandwich men and pig-trotter women will give
you notice when the time is come, for with the
first clatter of the descending footsteps they
commence their cries.
There are few grown-up men that go to the
"Vic" gallery. The generality of the visitors
are lads from about twelve to three-and-twenty,
and though a few black-faced sweeps or whitey-
brown dustmen may be among the throng, the
gallery audience consists mainly of costermon-
gers. Young girls, too, are very plentiful, only
one-third of whom now take their babies, owing
to the new regulation of charging half-price for
infants. At the foot of the staircase stands a
group of boys begging for the return checks,
which they sell again for 1½d. or 1d., according
to the lateness of the hour.
At each step up the well-staircase the warmth
and stench increase, until by the time one
reaches the gallery doorway, a furnace-heat
rushes out through the entrance that seems to
force you backwards, whilst the odour positively
prevents respiration. The mob on the landing,
standing on tiptoe and closely wedged together,
resists any civil attempt at gaining a glimpse of
the stage, and yet a coster lad will rush up,
elbow his way into the crowd, then jump up on
to the shoulders of those before him, and sud-
denly disappear into the body of the gallery.
The gallery at "the Vic" is one of the
largest in London. It will hold from 1500 to
2000 people, and runs back to so great a
distance, that the end of it is lost in shadow,
excepting where the little gas-jets, against the
wall, light up the two or three faces around
them. When the gallery is well packed, it is
usual to see piles of boys on each others
shoulders at the back, while on the partition
As you look up the vast slanting mass of
heads from the upper boxes, each one appears
on the move. The huge black heap, dotted
with faces, and spotted with white shirt sleeves,
almost pains the eye to look at, and should a
clapping of hands commence, the twinkling
nearly blinds you. It is the fashion with the
mob to take off their coats; and the cross-braces
on the backs of some, and the bare shoulders
peeping out of the ragged shirts of others, are
the only variety to be found. The bonnets of
the "ladies" are hung over the iron railing in
front, their numbers nearly hiding the panels,
and one of the amusements of the lads in the
back seats consists in pitching orange peel or
nutshells into them, a good aim being rewarded
with a shout of laughter.
When the orchestra begins playing, before
"the gods" have settled into their seats, it is
impossible to hear a note of music. The
puffed-out cheeks of the trumpeters, and the
raised drumsticks tell you that the overture has
commenced, but no tune is to be heard. An
occasional burst of the full band being caught
by gushes, as if a high wind were raging.
Recognitions take place every moment, and
"Bill Smith" is called to in a loud voice from
one side, and a shout in answer from the other
asks "What's up?" Or family secrets are
revealed, and "Bob Triller" is asked where
"Sal" is, and replies amid a roar of laughter,
that she is "a-larning the pynanney."
By-and-by a youngster, who has come in late,
jumps up over the shoulders at the door, and
doubling himself into a ball, rolls down over
the heads in front, leaving a trail of commotion
for each one as he passes aims a blow at the
fellow. Presently a fight is sure to begin, and
then every one rises from his seat whistling and
shouting; three or four pairs of arms fall to,
the audience waving their hands till the moving
mass seems like microscopic eels in paste. But
the commotion ceases suddenly on the rising of
the curtain, and then the cries of "Silence!"
"Ord-a-a-r!" "Ord-a-a-r!" make more noise
than ever.
The "Vic" gallery is not to be moved by
touching sentiment. They prefer vigorous exer-
cise to any emotional speech. "The Child of the
Storm's" declaration that she would share her
father's "death or imprisonment as her duty,"
had no effect at all, compared with the split in
the hornpipe. The shrill whistling and brayvos
that followed the tar's performance showed how
highly it was relished, and one "god" went so
far as to ask "how it was done." The comic
actor kicking a dozen Polish peasants was
encored, but the grand banquet of the Czar
of all the Russias only produced merriment,
and a request that he would "give them a
bit" was made directly the Emperor took the
willow-patterned plate in his hand. All affect-
ing situations were sure to be interrupted by
cries of "orda-a-r;" and the lady begging
Column 2
for her father's life was told to "speak up
old gal;" though when the heroine of the
"dummestic dreamer" (as they call it) told
the general of all the Cossack forces "not to
be a fool," the uproar of approbation grew
greater than ever, -- and when the lady turned
up her swan's-down cuffs, and seizing four
Russian soldiers shook them successively by
the collar, then the enthusiasm knew no bounds,
and the cries of "Bray-vo Vincent! Go it my
tulip!" resounded from every throat.
Altogether the gallery audience do not seem
to be of a gentle nature. One poor little lad
shouted out in a crying tone, "that he couldn't
see," and instantly a dozen voices demanded
"that he should be thrown over."
Whilst the pieces are going on, brown, flat
bottles are frequently raised to the mouth, and
between the acts a man with a tin can, glitter-
ing in the gas-light, goes round crying,
"Port-a-a-a-r! who's for port-a-a-a-r." As
the heat increased the faces grew bright red,
every bonnet was taken off, and ladies could
be seen wiping the perspiration from their
cheeks with the play-bills.
No delay between the pieces will be allowed,
and should the interval appear too long, some
one will shout out -- referring to the curtain --
"Pull up that there winder blind!" or they
will call to the orchestra, saying, "Now then
you catgut-scrapers! Let's have a ha'purth
of liveliness." Neither will they suffer a play
to proceed until they have a good view of the
stage, and "Higher the blue," is constantly
shouted, when the sky is too low, or "Light
up the moon," when the transparency is rather
dim.
The dances and comic songs, between the
pieces, are liked better than anything else. A
highland fling is certain to be repeated, and a
stamping of feet will accompany the tune, and
a shrill whistling, keep time through the entire
performance.
But the grand hit of the evening is always
when a song is sung to which the entire gallery
can join in chorus. Then a deep silence pre-
vails all through the stanzas. Should any
burst in before his time, a shout of "orda-a-r"
is raised, and the intruder put down by a
thousand indignant cries. At the proper time,
however, the throats of the mob burst forth in
all their strength. The most deafening noise
breaks out suddenly, while the cat-calls keep
up the tune, and an imitation of a dozen Mr.
Punches squeak out the words. Some actors
at the minor theatres make a great point of
this, and in the bill upon the night of my visit,
under the title of "There's a good time
coming, boys," there was printed, "assisted
by the most numerous and effective chorus in
the metropolis -- " meaning the whole of the
gallery. The singer himself started the mob,
saying, "Now then, the Exeter Hall touch if
you please gentlemen," and beat time with
his hand, parodying M. Jullien with his baton.
An "angcore" on such occasions is always
The notion of the police is so intimately blended with what may be called the politics of the costermongers that I give them together.
The politics of these people are detailed in a
few words -- they are nearly all Chartists. "You
might say, sir," remarked one of my informants,
"that they all were Chartists, but as its better
you should rather be under than over the mark,
say nearly all." Their ignorance, and their
being impulsive, makes them a dangerous class.
I am assured that in every district where the
costermongers are congregated, one or two of the
body, more intelligent than the others, have
great influence over them; and these leading
men are all Chartists, and being industrious and
not unprosperous persons, their pecuniary and
intellectual superiority cause them to be re-
garded as oracles. One of these men said to
me: "The costers think that working-men know
best, and so they have confidence in us. I like
to make men discontented, and I will make them
discontented while the present system continues,
because it's all for the middle and the moneyed
classes, and nothing, in the way of rights, for the
poor. People fancy when all's quiet that all's
stagnating. Propagandism is going on for all
that. It's when all's quiet that the seed's a
growing. Republicans and Socialists are press-
ing their doctrines."
The costermongers have very vague notions
of an aristocracy; they call the more prosperous
of their own body "aristocrats." Their notions
of an aristocracy of birth or wealth seem to be
formed on their opinion of the rich, or reputed
rich salesmen with whom they deal; and the
result is anything but favourable to the no-
bility.
Concerning free-trade, nothing, I am told,
can check the costermongers' fervour for a cheap
loaf. A Chartist costermonger told me that he
knew numbers of costers who were keen Chartists
without understanding anything about the six
points.
The costermongers frequently attend political
meetings, going there in bodies of from six to
twelve. Some of them, I learned, could not
understand why Chartist leaders exhorted them
to peace and quietness, when they might as well
fight it out with the police at once. The costers
boast, moreover, that they stick more together
in any "row" than any other class. It is con-
sidered by them a reflection on the character
of the thieves that they are seldom true to one
another.
It is a matter of marvel to many of this class
that people can live without working. The
ignorant costers have no knowledge of " pro-
perty," or "income," and conclude that the non-
workers all live out of the taxes. Of the taxes
generally they judge from their knowledge that
Column 2
tobacco, which they account a necessary of life,
pays 3s. per lb. duty.
As regards the police, the hatred of a coster-
monger to a "peeler" is intense, and with their
opinion of the police, all the more ignorant unite
that of the governing power. "Can you wonder
at it, sir," said a costermonger to me, "that I
hate the police? They drive us about, we must
move on, we can't stand here, and we can't pitch
there. But if we're cracked up, that is if we're
forced to go into the Union (I've known it both at
Clerkenwell and the City of London workhouses,)
why the parish gives us money to buy a barrow,
or a shallow, or to hire them, and leave the
house and start for ourselves: and what's the
use of that, if the police won't let us sell our
goods? -- Which is right, the parish or the
police?"
To thwart the police in any measure the
costermongers readily aid one another. One
very common procedure, if the policeman has
seized a barrow, is to whip off a wheel, while the
officers have gone for assistance; for a large and
loaded barrow requires two men to convey it to
the green-yard. This is done with great dex-
terity; and the next step is to dispose of the stock
to any passing costers, or to any "standing" in
the neighbourhood, and it is honestly accounted
for. The policemen, on their return, find an
empty, and unwheelable barrow, which they must
carry off by main strength, amid the jeers of the
populace.
I am assured that in case of a political riot
every "coster" would seize his policeman.
the couples living together and carrying on the
costermongering trade, are married. In Clerk-
enwell parish, however, where the number of
married couples is about a fifth of the whole,
this difference is easily accounted for, as in
Advent and Easter the incumbent of that parish
marries poor couples without a fee. Of the rights
of "legitimate" or "illegitimate" children the
costermongers understand nothing, and account
it a mere waste of money and time to go through
the ceremony of wedlock when a pair can live
together, and be quite as well regarded by their
fellows, without it. The married women associ-
ate with the unmarried mothers of families with-
out the slightest scruple. There is no honour
attached to the marriage state, and no shame to
concubinage. Neither are the unmarried women
less faithful to their "partners" than the mar-
ried; but I understand that, of the two classes,
the unmarried betray the most jealousy.
As regards the fidelity of these women I was
assured that, "in anything like good times,"
they were rigidly faithful to their husbands or
paramours; but that, in the worst pinch of
poverty, a departure from this fidelity -- if it pro-
vided a few meals or a fire -- was not considered
at all heinous. An old costermonger, who had
been mixed up with other callings, and whose
The dancing-rooms are the places where
matches are made up. There the boys go to
look out for "mates," and sometimes a match is
struck up the first night of meeting, and the
couple live together forthwith. The girls at
these dances are all the daughters of coster-
mongers, or of persons pursuing some other
course of street life. Unions take place when
the lad is but 14. Two or three out of 100 have
their female helpmates at that early age; but
the female is generally a couple of years older
than her partner. Nearly all the costermongers
form such alliances as I have described, when
both parties are under twenty. One reason why
these alliances are contracted at early ages is,
that when a boy has assisted his father, or any
one engaging him, in the business of a coster-
monger, he knows that he can borrow money,
and hire a shallow or a barrow -- or he may have
saved 5s. -- "and then if the father vexes him or
snubs him," said one of my informants, "he'll
tell his father to go to h -- l, and he and his gal
will start on their own account."
Most of the costermongers have numerous
families, but not those who contract alliances
very young. The women continue working down
to the day of their confinement.
"Chance children," as they are called, or
children unrecognised by any father, are rare
among the young women of the costermongers.
recently actively engaged in costermongering,
computed that not 3 in 100 costermongers had
ever been in the interior of a church, or any
place of worship, or knew what was meant by
Christianity. The same person gave me the fol-
lowing account, which was confirmed by others:
"The costers have no religion at all, and very
little notion, or none at all, of what religion or
Column 2
a future state is. Of all things they hate tracts.
They hate them because the people leaving them
never give them anything, and as they can't read
the tract -- not one in forty -- they're vexed to be
bothered with it. And really what is the use of
giving people reading before you've taught them
to read? Now, they respect the City Mission-
aries, because they read to them -- and the
costers will listen to reading when they don't
understand it -- and because they visit the sick,
and sometimes give oranges and such like to
them and the children. I've known a City
Missionary buy a shilling's worth of oranges
of a coster, and give them away to the sick
and the children -- most of them belonging to
the costermongers -- down the court, and that
made him respected there. I think the City
Missionaries have done good. But I'm satisfied
that if the costers had to profess themselves
of some religion to-morrow, they would all
become Roman Catholics, every one of them.
This is the reason: -- London costers live very
often in the same courts and streets as the poor
Irish, and if the Irish are sick, be sure there
comes to them the priest, the Sisters of Charity
-- they are good women -- and some other
ladies. Many a man that's not a Catholic,
has rotted and died without any good person
near him. Why, I lived a good while in
Lambeth, and there wasn't one coster in 100,
I'm satisfied, knew so much as the rector's
name, -- though Mr. Dalton's a very good man.
But the reason I was telling you of, sir, is that
the costers reckon that religion's the best that
gives the most in charity, and they think the
Catholics do this. I'm not a Catholic myself, but
I believe every word of the Bible, and have the
greater belief that it's the word of God because
it teaches democracy. The Irish in the courts
get sadly chaffed by the others about their
priests, -- but they'll die for the priest. Religion
is a regular puzzle to the costers. They see
people come out of church and chapel, and as
they're mostly well dressed, and there's very few
of their own sort among the church-goers, the
costers somehow mix up being religious with
being respectable, and so they have a queer sort
of feeling about it. It's a mystery to them. It's
shocking when you come to think of it. They'll
listen to any preacher that goes among them;
and then a few will say -- I've heard it often
-- `A b -- y fool, why don't he let people go to
h-ll their own way?' There's another thing
that makes the costers think so well of the
Catholics. If a Catholic coster -- there's only
very few of them -- is `cracked up' (penniless),
he's often started again, and the others have
a notion that it's through some chapel-fund.
I don't know whether it is so or not, but I know
the cracked-up men are started again, if they're
Catholics. It's still the stranger that the regular
costermongers, who are nearly all Londoners,
should have such respect for the Roman
Catholice, when they have such a hatred of the
Irish, whom they look upon as intruders and
underminers." -- "If a missionary came among
I have stated elsewhere, that only about one in ten of the regular costermongers is able to read. The want of education among both men and women is deplorable, and I tested it in several instances. The following statement, however, from one of the body, is no more to be taken as representing the ignorance of the class gene- rally, than are the clear and discriminating accounts I received from intelligent coster- mongers to be taken as representing the intelli- gence of the body.
The man with whom I conversed, and from
whom I received the following statement, seemed
about thirty. He was certainly not ill-looking,
but with a heavy cast of countenance, his light
blue eyes having little expression. His state-
ments, or opinions, I need hardly explain, were
given both spontaneously in the course of con-
versation, and in answer to my questions. I
give them almost verbatim, omitting oaths and
slang:
"Well, times is bad, sir," he said, "but it's
a deadish time. I don't do so well at present
as in middlish times, I think. When I served
the Prince of Naples, not far from here (I
presume that he alluded to the Prince of
Capua), I did better and times was better.
That was five years ago, but I can't say to
a year or two. He was a good customer, and
was wery fond of peaches. I used to sell them
to him, at 12s. the plasket when they was
new. The plasket held a dozen, and cost me
6s. at Covent-garden -- more sometimes; but I
didn't charge him more when they did. His
footman was a black man, and a ignorant man
quite, and his housekeeper was a English-
woman. He was the Prince o' Naples, was my
customer; but I don't know what he was like, for
I never saw him. I've heard that he was the
brother of the king of Naples. I can't say
where Naples is, but if you was to ask at
Euston-square, they'll tell you the fare there and
the time to go it in. It may be in France for
anything I know may Naples, or in Ireland.
Why don't you ask at the square? I went
to Croydon once by rail, and slept all the
way without stirring, and so you may to
Naples for anything I know. I never heard
of the Pope being a neighbour of the King of
Naples. Do you mean living next door to
him? But I don't know nothing of the King
of Naples, only the prince. I don't know what
the Pope is. Is he any trade? It's nothing
to me, when he's no customer of mine. I have
nothing to say about nobody that ain't no
customers. My crabs is caught in the sea, in
course. I gets them at Billingsgate. I never
saw the sea, but it's salt-water, I know. I
Column 2
can't say whereabouts it lays. I believe it's
in the hands of the Billingsgate salesmen -- all of
it? I've heard of shipwrecks at sea, caused
by drownding, in course. I never heard that
the Prince of Naples was ever at sea. I like
to talk about him, he was such a customer when
he lived near here." (Here he repeated his
account of the supply of peaches to his Royal
Highness.) "I never was in France, no, sir,
never. I don't know the way. Do you think
I could do better there? I never was in
the Republic there. What's it like? Bona-
parte? O, yes; I've heard of him. He was
at Waterloo. I didn't know he'd been alive
now and in France, as you ask me about him.
I don't think you're larking, sir. Did I hear
of the French taking possession of Naples,
and Bonaparte making his brother-in-law
king? Well, I didn't, but it may be true,
because I served the Prince of Naples, what
was the brother of the king. I never heard
whether the Prince was the king's older brother
or his younger. I wish he may turn out his
older if there's property coming to him, as the
oldest has the first turn; at least so I've heard --
first come, first served. I've worked the streets
and the courts at all times. I've worked them by
moonlight, but you couldn't see the moonlight
where it was busy. I can't say how far the
moon's off us. It's nothing to me, but I've
seen it a good bit higher than St. Paul's. I
don't know nothing about the sun. Why do
you ask? It must be nearer than the moon
for it's warmer, -- and if they're both fire, that
shows it. It's like the tap-room grate and that
bit of a gas-light; to compare the two is.
What was St. Paul's that the moon was above?
A church, sir; so I've heard. I never was in
a church. O, yes, I've heard of God; he
made heaven and earth; I never heard of his
making the sea; that's another thing, and you
can best learn about that at Billingsgate. (He
seemed to think that the sea was an appur-
tenance of Billingsgate.) Jesus Christ? Yes.
I've heard of him. Our Redeemer? Well,
I only wish I could redeem my Sunday togs
from my uncle's."
Another costermonger, in answer to inquiries,
said: "I 'spose you think us 'riginal coves that
you ask. We're not like Methusalem, or some
such swell's name, (I presume that Malthus was
meant) as wanted to murder children afore
they was born, as I once heerd lectured
about -- we're nothing like that."
Another on being questioned, and on being
told that the information was wanted for the
press, replied: "The press? I'll have nothing
to say to it. We are oppressed enough already."
That a class numbering 30,000 should be per-
mitted to remain in a state of almost brutish
ignorance is a national disgrace. If the London
costers belong especially to the "dangerous
classes," the danger of such a body is assuredly
an evil of our own creation; for the gratitude of
the poor creatures to any one who seeks to give
them the least knowledge is almost pathetic.
The slang language of the costermongers is not very remarkable for originality of construction; it possesses no humour: but they boast that it is known only to themselves; it is far beyond the Irish, they say, and puzzles the Jews. The root of the costermonger tongue, so to speak, is to give the words spelt backward, or rather pronounced rudely backward, -- for in my present chapter the language has, I believe, been reduced to ortho- graphy for the first time. With this backward pronunciation, which is very arbitrary, are mixed words reducible to no rule and seldom referrable to any origin, thus complicating the mystery of this unwritten tongue; while any syllable is added to a proper slang word, at the discretion of the speaker.
Slang is acquired very rapidly, and some cos-
termongers will converse in it by the hour. The
women use it sparingly; the girls more than
the women; the men more than the [unclear: ] ; and
the boys most of all. The most ignorant of all
these classes deal most in slang and boast of
their cleverness and proficiency in it. In their
conversations among themselves, the follow-
ing are invariably the terms used in money
matters. A rude back-spelling may generally
be traced:
| Flatch | Halfpenny. |
| Yenep | Penny. |
| Owt-yenep | Twopence. |
| Erth-yenep | Threepence. |
| Rouf-yenep | Fourpence. |
| Ewif-yenep | Fivepence. |
| Exis-yenep | Sixpence. |
| Neves-yenep | Sevenpence. |
| Teaich-yenep | Eightpence. |
| Enine-yenep | Ninepence. |
| Net-yenep | Tenpence. |
| Leven | Elevenpence. |
| Gen | Twelvepence. |
| Yenep-flatch | Three half-pence. |
and so on through the penny-halfpennies.
It was explained to me by a costermonger,
who had introduced some new words into the
slang, that "leven" was allowed so closely to
resemble the proper word, because elevenpence
was almost an unknown sum to costermongers,
the transition -- weights and measures notwith-
standing -- being immediate from 10d. to 1s.
"Gen" is a shilling and the numismatic
sequence is pursued with the gens, as regards
shillings, as with the "yeneps" as regards
pence. The blending of the two is also accord-
ing to the same system as "Owt-gen, teaich-
yenep" two-and-eightpence. The exception to
the uniformity of the "gen" enumeration is
in the sum of 8s., which instead of " teaich-
gen" is "teaich-guy:" a deviation with ample
precedents in all civilised tongues.
As regards the larger coins the translation
into slang is not reducible into rule. The fol-
lowing are the costermonger coins of the higher
value:
Column 2
| Couter | Sovereign. |
| Half-Couter, or Net- gen | Half-sovereign. |
| Ewif-gen | Crown. |
| Flatch-ynork | Half-crown. |
The costermongers still further complicate
their slang by a mode of multiplication. They
thus say, "Erth Ewif-gens" or 3 times 5s., which
means of course 15s.
Speaking of this language, a costermonger said
to me: "The Irish can't tumble to it anyhow;
the Jews can tumble better, but we're their masters. Some of the young salesmen at Bil-
lingsgate understand us, -- but only at Billings-
gate; and they think they're uncommon clever,
but they're not quite up to the mark. The police
don't understand us at all. It would be a pity
if they did."
I give a few more phrases:
| A doogheno or dab- heno? | It is a good or bad market? |
| A regular trosseno | A regular bad one. |
| On | No. |
| Say | Yes. |
| Tumble to your bar- rikin | Understand you. |
| Top o' reeb | Pot of beer. |
| Doing dab | Doing badly. |
| Cool him | Look at him. |
The latter phrase is used when one coster-
monger warns another of the approach of a
policeman "who might order him to move on,
or be otherwise unpleasant." "Cool" (look)
is exclaimed, or "Cool him" (look at him).
One costermonger told me as a great joke that a
very stout policeman, who was then new to the
duty, was when in a violent state of perspiration,
much offended by a costermonger saying "Cool
him."
| Cool the esclop | Look at the police. |
| Cool the namesclop | Look at the police- man. |
| Cool ta the dillo nemo | Look at the old woman; |
This language seems confined, in its general
use, to the immediate objects of the coster-
monger's care; but is, among the more acute
members of the fraternity, greatly extended,
and is capable of indefinite extension.
The costermongers oaths, I may conclude,
are all in the vernacular; nor are any of the
common salutes, such as "How d'you do?" or
"Good-night" known to their slang.
| Kennetseeno | Stinking; |
| (applied principally to the quality of fish.) | |
| Flatch kanurd | Half-drunk. |
| Flash it | Show it; |
| (in cases of bargains offered.) | |
| On doog | No good. |
| Cross chap | A thief. |
| Showfulls | Bad money; |
| (seldom in the hands of costermongers.) | |
| I'm on to the deb | I'm going to bed. |
| Do the tightner | Go to dinner. |
| Nommus | Be off |
| Tol | Lot, Stock, or Share. |
Many costermongers, "but principally -- per-
haps entirely," -- I was told, "those who had
not been regular born and bred to the trade, but
had taken to it when cracked up in their own,"
do not trouble themselves to acquire any know-
ledge of slang. It is not indispensable for the
carrying on of their business; the grand object,
however, seems to be, to shield their bargainings
at market, or their conversation among them-
selves touching their day's work and profits,
from the knowledge of any Irish or uninitiated
fellow-traders.
The simple principle of costermonger slang --
that of pronouncing backward, may cause its
acquirement to be regarded by the educated as a
matter of ease. But it is a curious fact that
lads who become costermongers' boys, without
previous association with the class, acquire a
very ready command of the language, and this
though they are not only unable to spell, but
don't "know a letter in a book." I saw one lad,
whose parents had, until five or six months back,
resided in the country. The lad himself was
fourteen; he told me he had not been "a cos-
termongering" more than three months, and
prided himself on his mastery over slang. To
test his ability, I asked him the coster's word
for "hippopotamus;" he answered, with tole-
rable readiness, "musatoppop." I then asked
him for the like rendering of "equestrian" (one
of Astley's bills having caught my eye). He
replied, but not quite so readily, "nirtseque."
The last test to which I subjected him was
"good-naturedly;" and though I induced him
to repeat the word twice, I could not, on any of
the three renderings, distinguish any precise
sound beyond an indistinct gabbling, concluded
emphatically with "doog:" -- "good" being a
word with which all these traders are familiar.
It must be remembered, that the words I de-
manded were remote from the young coster-
monger's vocabulary, if not from his under-
standing.
Before I left this boy, he poured forth a
minute or more's gibberish, of which, from its
rapid utterance, I could distinguish nothing;
but I found from his after explanation, that it
was a request to me to make a further purchase
of his walnuts.
This slang is utterly devoid of any applica-
bility to humour. It gives no new fact, or
approach to a fact, for philologists. One supe-
rior genius among the costers, who has invented
words for them, told me that he had no system
for coining his term. He gave to the known
words some terminating syllable, or, as he called
it, "a new turn, just," to use his own words,
"as if he chorussed them, with a tol-de-rol."
Column 2
The intelligence communicated in this slang is,
in a great measure, communicated, as in other
slang, as much by the inflection of the voice,
the emphasis, the tone, the look, the shrug, the
nod, the wink, as by the words spoken.
Like many rude, and almost all wander-
ing communities, the costermongers, like the
cabmen and pickpockets, are hardly ever known
by their real names; even the honest men among
them are distinguished by some strange appel-
lation. Indeed, they are all known one to
another by nicknames, which they acquire either
by some mode of dress, some remark that has
ensured costermonger applause, some peculiarity
in trading, or some defect or singularly in
personal appearance. Men are known as "Rotten
Herrings," "Spuddy" (a seller of bad potatoes,
until beaten by the Irish for his bad wares,)
"Curly" (a man with a curly head), "Foreigner"
(a [unclear: ] had been in the Spanish-Legion),
"Brassy" (a very saucy person), "Gaffy" (once
a performer), "The One-eyed Buffer," " Jaw-
breaker," "Pine-apple Jack," "Cast-iron Poll"
(her head having been struck with a pot without
injury to her), "Whilky," "Blackwall Poll"
(a woman generally having two black eyes),
"Lushy Bet," "Dirty Sall" (the costermongers
generally objecting to dirtywomen), and " Danc-
ing Sue."
I have used the heading of "Education," but
perhaps to say "non-education," would be more
suitable. Very few indeed of the costermongers'
children are sent even to the Ragged Schools;
and if they are, from all I could learn, it is
done more that the mother may be saved the
trouble of tending them at home, than from
any desire that the children shall acquire useful
knowledge. Both boys and girls are sent out
by their parents in the evening to sell nuts,
oranges, &c., at the doors of the theatres, or in
any public place, or "round the houses" (a
stated circuit from their place of abode). This
trade they pursue eagerly for the sake of "bunts,"
though some carry home the money they take,
very honestly. The costermongers are kind to
their children, "perhaps in a rough way, and the
women make regular pets of them very often."
One experienced man told me, that he had seen
a poor costermonger's wife -- one of the few who
could read -- instructing her children in reading;
but such instances were very rare. The educa-
tion of these children is such only as the streets
afford; and the streets teach them, for the most
part -- and in greater or lesser degrees, -- acute-
ness -- a precocious acuteness -- in all that con-
cerns their immediate wants, business, or gratifi-
cations; a patient endurance of cold and hunger;
a desire to obtain money without working for it;
a craving for the excitement of gambling; an
inordinate love of amusement; and an irrepres-
sible repugnance to any settled in-door industry.
costermonger's notions upon politics and religion.
We have seen the brutified state in which he is
allowed by society to remain, though possessing
the same faculties and susceptibilities as our-
selves -- the same power to perceive and admire
the forms of truth, beauty, and goodness, as even
the very highest in the state. We have witnessed
how, instinct with all the elements of manhood
and beasthood, the qualities of the beast are prin-
cipally developed in him, while those of the man
are stunted in their growth. It now remains for
us to look into some other matters concerning
this curious class of people, and, first, of their
literature:
It may appear anomalous to speak of the lite-
rature of an uneducated body, but even the
costermongers have their tastes for books. They
are very fond of hearing any one read aloud to
them, and listen very attentively. One man
often reads the Sunday paper of the beer-shop to
them, and on a fine summer's evening a coster-
monger, or any neighbour who has the advantage
of being "a schollard," reads aloud to them in
the courts they inhabit. What they love best to
listen to -- and, indeed, what they are most eager
for -- are Reynolds's periodicals, especially the
"Mysteries of the Court." "They've got tired
of Lloyd's blood-stained stories," said one man,
who was in the habit of reading to them, "and
I'm satisfied that, of all London, Reynolds is the
most popular man among them. They stuck
to him in Trafalgar-square, and would again.
They all say he's `a trump,' and Feargus
O'Connor's another trump with them.' "
One intelligent man considered that the spirit
of curiosity manifested by costermongers, as
regards the information or excitement derived
from hearing stories read, augured well for the
improvability of the class.
Another intelligent costermonger, who had
recently read some of the cheap periodicals to
ten or twelve men, women, and boys, all coster-
mongers, gave me an account of the comments
made by his auditors. They had assembled,
after their day's work or their rounds, for the
purpose of hearing my informant read the last
number of some of the penny publications.
"The costermongers," said my informant,
"are very fond of illustrations. I have known
a man, what couldn't read, buy a periodical what
had an illustration, a little out of the common
way perhaps, just that he might learn from some
one, who could read, what it was all about. They
have all heard of Cruikshank, and they think
everything funny is by him -- funny scenes in a
play and all. His `Bottle' was very much ad-
mired. I heard one man say it was very prime,
and showed what `lush' did, but I saw the same
man," added my informant, "drunk three hours
afterwards. Look you here, sir," he continued,
turning over a periodical, for he had the number
with him, "here's a portrait of `Catherine of
Russia.' `Tell us all about her,' said one man to
Column 2
me last night; read it; what was she?' When I
had read it," my informant continued, "another
man, to whom I showed it, said, `Don't the cove
as did that know a deal?' for they fancy -- at least,
a many do -- that one man writes a whole peri-
odical, or a whole newspaper. Now here," pro-
ceeded my friend, "you see's an engraving of a
man hung up, burning over a fire, and some
costers would go mad if they couldn't learn what
he'd been doing, who he was, and all about him.
`But about the picture?' they would say, and
this is a very common question put by them
whenever they see an engraving.
"Here's one of the passages that took their
fancy wonderfully, my informant observed:
Here all my audience," said the man to me,`With glowing cheeks, flashing eyes, and palpitating
bosom, Venetia Trelawney rushed back into the refresh
ment-room, where she threw herself into one of the
arm-chairs already noticed. But scarcely had she thus
sunk down upon the flocculent cushion, when a sharp
click, as of some mechanism giving way, met her ears;
and at the same instant her wrists were caught in
manacles which sprang out of the arms of the treacher-
ous chair, while two steel bands started from the richly-
carved back and grasped her shoulders. A shriek
burst from her lips -- she struggled violently, but all to
no purpose: for she was a captive -- and powerless!`We should observe that the manacles and the steel
bands which had thus fastened upon her, were covered
with velvet, so that they inflicted no positive injury
upon her, nor even produced the slightest abrasion of
her fair and polished skin.'
"Anything about the police sets them a talk-
ing at once. This did when I read it:
`The blessed crushers is everywhere,' shouted`The Ebenezers still continued their fierce struggle,
and, from the noise they made, seemed as if they were
tearing each other to pieces, to the wild roar of a chorus
of profane swearing. The alarm, as Bloomfield had
predicted, was soon raised, and some two or three
policemen, with their bull's-eyes, and still more effec-
tive truncheons, speedily restored order.'
"If there's any foreign language which can't
be explained, I've seen the costers," my in-
formant went on, "annoyed at it -- quite annoyed.
Another time I read part of one of Lloyd's
numbers to them -- but they like something
spicier. One article in them -- here it is -- finishes
in this way:
`I can't tumble to that barrikin,' said a young"The social habits and costumes of the Magyar
noblesse have almost all the characteristics of the cor-
responding class in Ireland. This word noblesse is one
of wide signification in Hungary; and one may with
great truth say of this strange nation, that `qui n'est
point noble n'est rien.' "
From other quarters I learned that some of
the costermongers who were able to read, or
loved to listen to reading, purchased their litera-
ture in a very commercial spirit, frequently
buying the periodical which is the largest in
size, because when "they've got the reading out
of it," as they say, "it's worth a halfpenny for
the barrow."
Tracts they will rarely listen to, but if any
persevering man will read tracts, and state that
he does it for their benefit and improvement,
they listen without rudeness, though often with
evident unwillingness. "Sermons or tracts," said
one of their body to me, "gives them the 'orrors."
Costermongers purchase, and not unfrequently,
the first number of a penny periodical, "to see
what it's like."
The tales of robbery and bloodshed, of heroic,
eloquent, and gentlemanly highwaymen, or of
gipsies turning out to be nobles, now interest the
costermongers but little, although they found
great delight in such stories a few years back.
Works relating to Courts, potentates, or " har-
ristocrats," are the most relished by these rude
people.
I heard on all hands that the costers never steal
from one another, and never wink at any one
stealing from a neighbouring stall. Any stall-
keeper will leave his stall untended to get his
dinner, his neighbour acting for him; sometimes
he will leave it to enjoy a game at skittles. It
was computed for me, that property worth 10,000l. belonging to costers is daily left exposed in the
streets or at the markets, almost entirely un-
watched, the policeman or market-keeper only
passing at intervals. And yet thefts are rarely
heard of, and when heard of are not attributable
to costermongers, but to regular thieves. The
way in which the sum of 10,000l. was arrived at,
is this: "In Hooper-street, Lambeth," said my
informant, "there are thirty barrows and carts
exposed on an evening, left in the street, with
nobody to see to them; left there all night.
That is only one street. Each barrow and board
would be worth, on the average, 2l. 5s., and that
would be 75l. In the other bye-streets and
courts off the New-cut are six times as many,
Hooper-street having the most. This would give
525l. in all, left unwatched of a night. There
are, throughout London, twelve more districts be-
sides the New-cut -- at least twelve districts -- and,
calculating the same amount in these, we have,
altogether, 6,300l. worth of barrows. Taking in
other bye-streets, we may safely reckon it at
4,000 barrows; for the numbers I have given in
the thirteen places are 2,520, and 1,480 added is
moderate. At least half of those which are in
use next day, are left unwatched; more, I have
no doubt, but say half. The stock of these 2,000
will average 10s. each, or 1,000l.; and the bar-
rows will be worth 4,500l.; in all 5,500l., and
Column 2
the property exposed on the stalls and the markets
will be double in amount, or 11,000l. in value,
every day, but say 10,000l.
"Besides, sir," I was told, "the thieves
won't rob the costers so often as they will the
shopkeepers. It's easier to steal from a butcher's
or bacon-seller's open window than from a cos-
termonger's stall or barrow, because the shop-
keeper's eye can't be always on his goods. But
there's always some one to give an eye to a cos-
ter's property. At Billingsgate the thieves will
rob the salesmen far readier than they will us.
They know we'd take it out of them readier if
they were caught. It's Lynch law with us. We
never give them in charge."
The costermongers' boys will, I am informed,
cheat their employers, but they do not steal from
them. The costers' donkey stables have seldom
either lock or latch, and sometimes oysters, and
other things which the donkey will not molest,
are left there, but are never stolen.
more particularly to the commercial life of the
costermonger.
All who pass along the thoroughfares of the
Metropolis, bestowing more than a cursory
glance upon the many phases of its busy street
life, must be struck with astonishment to observe
the various modes of conveyance, used by those
who resort to the public thoroughfares for a live-
lihood. From the more provident costermonger's
pony and donkey cart, to the old rusty iron tray
slung round the neck by the vendor of black-
ing, and down to the little grey-eyed Irish boy
with his lucifer-matches, in the last remains of
a willow hand-basket -- the shape and variety of
the means resorted to by the costermongers and
other street-sellers, for carrying about their
goods, are almost as manifold as the articles
they vend.
The pony -- or donkey -- carts (and the latter
is by far the more usual beast of draught),
of the prosperous costermongers are of three
kinds: -- the first is of an oblong shape, with a
rail behind, upon which is placed a tray filled with
bunches of greens, turnips, celery, &c., whilst
other commodities are laid in the bed of the cart.
Another kind is the common square cart with-
out springs, which is so constructed that the
sides, as well as the front and back, will let
down and form shelves whereon the stock may
be arranged to advantage. The third sort of
pony-cart is one of home manufacture, con-
sisting of the framework of a body without
sides, or front, or hind part. Sometimes a cos-
ter's barrow is formed into a donkey cart merely
by fastening, with cord, two rough poles to the
handles. All these several kinds of carts are
used for the conveyance of either fruit, vege-
tables, or fish; but besides those, there is the
salt and mustard vendor's cart, with and with-
out the tilt or covering, and a square piece of
tin (stuck into a block of salt), on which is
The above conveyances are all of small
dimensions, the barrows being generally about
five feet long and three wide, while the carts
are mostly about four feet square.
Every kind of harness is used; some is well
blacked and greased and glittering with brass,
others are almost as grey with dust as the donkey
itself. Some of the jackasses are gaudily capa-
risoned in an old carriage-harness, which fits it
like a man's coat on a boy's back, while the
plated silver ornaments are pink, with the cop-
per showing through; others have rope traces
and belly-bands, and not a few indulge in old
cotton handkerchiefs for pads.
The next conveyance (which, indeed, is the
most general) is the costermonger's hand-bar-
row. These are very light in their make,
with springs terminating at the axle. Some
have rails behind for the arrangement of their
goods; others have not. Some have side rails,
whilst others have only the frame-work. The
shape of these barrows is oblong, and sloped
from the hind-part towards the front; the bot-
tom of the bed is not boarded, but consists of
narrow strips of wood nailed athwart and across.
When the coster is hawking his fish, or vending
his green stuff, he provides himself with a
wooden tray, which is placed upon his barrow.
Those who cannot afford a tray get some pieces
of board and fasten them together, these answer-
ing their purpose as well. Pine-apple and
pine-apple rock barrows are not unfrequently
seen with small bright coloured flags at the
four corners, fluttering in the wind.
The knife-cleaner's barrow, which has lately
appeared in the streets, must not be passed
over here. It consists of a huge sentry-box, with
a door, and is fixed upon two small wheels, being
propelled in the same way as a wheel-barrow.
In the interior is one of Kent's Patent Knife-
cleaning Machines, worked by turning a handle.
Then there are the cat and dog's-meat barrows.
These, however, are merely common wheelbar-
rows, with a board in front and a ledge or shelf,
formed by a piece of board nailed across the
top of the barrow, to answer the purpose of a
cutting-board. Lastly, there is the hearth-stone
barrow, piled up with hearth-stone, Bath-brick,
and lumps of whiting.
Another mode of conveying the goods through
the streets, is by baskets of various kinds; as
the sieve or head basket; the square and oval
"shallow," fastened in front of the fruit-woman
with a strap round the waist; the hand-basket;
and the "prickle." The sieve, or head-basket,
is a round willow basket, containing about one-
third of a bushel. The square and oval shallows
are willow baskets, about four inches deep, and
thirty inches long, by eighteen broad. The
hand-basket is the common oval basket, with
Column 2
a handle across to hang upon the arm; the
latter are generally used by the Irish for onions
and apples. The prickle is a brown willow
basket, in which walnuts are imported into this
country from the Continent; they are about
thirty inches deep, and in bulk rather larger
than a gallon measure; they are used only by
the vendors of walnuts.
Such are the principal forms of the coster-
mongers' conveyances; but besides carts, bar-
rows, and baskets, there are many other means
adopted by the London street-sellers for carrying
their goods from one part of the metropolis to
another. The principal of these are cans, trays,
boxes, and poles.
The baked potato-cans sometimes are square
and sometimes oval; they are made with and
without legs, a lid fastened on with hinges, and
have a small charcoal fire fixed at the bottom
of the can, so as to keep the potatoes hot, while
there is a pipe at top to let off the steam. On
one side of the can is a little compartment for the
salt, and another on the other side for the butter.
The hot pie-can is a square tin can, standing
upon four legs, with a door in front, and three
partitions inside; a fire is kept in the bottom,
and the pies arranged in order upon the iron
plates or shelves. When the pies at the bottom
are sufficiently hot they are taken out, and
placed on the upper shelf, whilst those above are
removed to the lower compartments, by which
means all the pies are kept "hot and hot."
The muffin and crumpet-boy carries his
articles in a basket, covered outside with oil-
cloth and inside with green-baize, either at his
back, or slung over his arm, and rings his bell
as he walks.
The blacking boy, congreve-match and water-
cress girl, use a rusty tray, spread over with
their "goods," and suspended to the neck by a
piece of string.
The vendors of corn-salve, plating balls, soap
for removing grease spots, paper, steel pens,
envelopes, &c., carry their commodities in front
of them in boxes, suspended round the neck by
a narrow leather strap.
Rabbits and game are sometimes carried in
baskets, and at other times tied together and
slung over a pole upon the shoulder. Hat and
bonnet-boxes are likewise conveyed upon a pole.
Door-mats, baskets and "duffer's" packs,
wood pails, brushes, brooms, clothes-props,
clothes-lines and string, and grid-irons, Dutch-
ovens, skewers and fire-shovels, are carried
across the shoulder.
Having set forth the costermonger's usual mode of conveying his goods through the streets of London, I shall now give the reader a descrip- tion of the place and scene where and when he purchases his donkeys.
When a costermonger wishes to [unclear: ] or buy a
donkey, he goes to Smithfield-market on a Fri-
day afternoon. On this day, between the hours
of one and five, there is a kind of fair held,
Every thing necessary for the starting of a
costermonger's barrow can be had in Smithfield
on a Friday, -- from the barrow itself to the
weights -- from the donkey to the whip. The
animals can be purchased at prices ranging from
5s. to 3l. On a brisk market-day as many as
two hundred donkeys have been sold. The bar-
rows for sale are kept apart from the steeds, but
harness to any amount can be found everywhere,
in all degrees of excellence, from the bright
japanned cart saddle with its new red pads, to
the old mouldy trace covered with buckle marks.
Wheels of every size and colour, and springs in
every stage of rust, are hawked about on all
sides. To the usual noise and shouting of a
Saturday night's market is added the shrill
squealing of distant pigs, the lowing of the
passing oxen, the bleating of sheep, and the
braying of donkeys. The paved road all down
the "race-course" is level and soft, with the
mud trodden down between the stones. The
policeman on duty there wears huge fishermen's
or flushermen's boots, reaching to their thighs;
and the trouser ends of the costers' corduroys
are black and sodden with wet dirt. Every
variety of odour fills the air; you pass from
the stable smell that hangs about the donkeys,
into an atmosphere of apples and fried fish, near
the eating-stalls, while a few paces further on
you are nearly choked with the stench of goats.
The crowd of black hats, thickly dotted with red
and yellow plush caps, reels about; and the
"hi-hi-i-i" of the donkey-runners sounds on all
sides. Sometimes a curly-headed bull, with a
fierce red eye, on its way to or from the adjacent
cattle-market, comes trotting down the road,
making all the visitors rush suddenly to the
railings, for fear -- as a coster near me said -- of
"being taught the hornpipe."
The donkeys standing for sale are ranged in
a long line on both sides of the "race-course,"
their white velvetty noses resting on the wooden
rail they are tied to. Many of them wear
their blinkers and head harness, and others are
ornamented with ribbons, fastened in their hal-
ters. The lookers-on lean against this railing,
and chat with the boys at the donkeys' heads,
or with the men who stand behind them,
and keep continually hitting and shouting at
the poor still beasts to make them prance.
Sometimes a party of two or three will be seen
closely examining one of these "Jerusalem
ponys," passing their hands down its legs, or
looking quietly on, while the proprietor's ash
stick descends on the patient brute's back,
making a dull hollow sound. As you walk in
front of the long line of donkeys, the lads seize
the animals by their nostrils, and show their
Column 2
large teeth, asking if you "want a hass, sir,"
and all warranting the creature to be "five
years old next buff-day." Dealers are quarrel-
ling among themselves, downcrying each other's
goods. "A hearty man," shouted one proprietor,
pointing to his rival's stock, "could eat three
sich donkeys as yourn at a meal."
One fellow, standing behind his steed, shouts
as he strikes, "Here's the real Brittannia
mettle;" whilst another asks, "Who's for the
Pride of the Market?" and then proceeds to flip
"the pride" with his whip, till she clears away
the mob with her kickings. Here, standing by
its mother, will be a shaggy little colt, with a
group of ragged boys fondling it, and lifting it
in their arms from the ground.
During all this the shouts of the drivers and
runners fill the air, as they rush past each
other n the race-course. Now a tall fellow,
dragging a donkey after him, runs by crying,
as he charges in amongst the mob, "Hulloa!
Hulloa! hi! hi!' his mate, with his long coat-
tails flying in the wind, hurrying after and roar-
ing, between his blows, "Keem-up!"
On nearly every post are hung traces or
bridles; and in one place, on the occasion of my
visit, stood an old collar with a donkey nibbling
at the straw that had burst out. Some of the
lads, in smock-frocks, walk about with cart-
saddles on their heads, and crowds gather
round the trucks, piled up with a black heap
of harness studded with brass. Those without
trays have spread out old sacks on the ground,
on which are laid axle-trees, bound-up springs,
and battered carriage-lamps. There are plenty
of rusty nails and iron bolts to be had, if a
barrow should want mending; and if the handles
are broken, an old cab-shaft can be bought
cheap, to repair them.
In another "race-course," opposite to the
donkeys, -- the ponies are sold. These make a
curious collection, each one showing what was
his last master's whim. One has its legs and
belly shorn of its hair, another has its mane
and tail cut close, and some have switch tails,
muddy at the end from their length. A big-
hipped black nag, with red tinsel-like spots on
its back, had its ears cut close, and another
curly-haired brute that was wet and steaming
with having been shown off, had two huge
letters burnt into its hind-quarters. Here the
clattering of the hoofs and the smacking of
whips added to the din; and one poor brute,
with red empty eye-holes, and carrying its head
high up -- as a blind man does -- sent out show-
ers of sparks from its hoofs as it spluttered over
the stones, at each blow it received. Occasion-
ally, in one part of the pony market, there may
be seen a crowd gathered round a nag, that
some one swears has been stolen from him.
Raised up over the heads of the mob are
bundles of whips, and men push their way past,
with their arms full of yellow-handled curry-
combs; whilst, amongst other cries, is heard that
of "Sticks ½d. each! sticks -- real smarters."
At one end of the market the barrows for sale
On all sides the refreshment-barrows are sur-
rounded by customers. The whelk-man peppers
his lots, and shouts, "A lumping penn'orth for a
ha'penny;" and a lad in a smock-frock carries
two full pails of milk, slopping it as he walks, and
crying, "Ha'penny a mug-full, new milk from
the ke-ow!" The only quiet people to be seen
are round the peas-soup stall, with their cups in
their hands; and there is a huge crowd cover-
ing in the hot-eel stand, with the steam rising
up in the centre. Baskets of sliced cake, apples,
nuts, and pine-apple rock, block up the path-
way; and long wicker baskets of live fowls hem
you in, round which are grouped the costers,
handling and blowing apart the feathers on the
breast.
The costermongers almost universally treat their donkeys with kindness. Many a coster- monger will resent the ill-treatment of a donkey, as he would a personal indignity. These animals are often not only favourites, but pets, having their share of the costermonger's dinner when bread forms a portion of it, or pudding, or anything suited to the palate of the brute. Those well-used, manifest fondness for their masters, and are easily manageable; it is, however, difficult to get an ass, whose master goes regular rounds, away from its stable for any second labour during the day, unless it has fed and slept in the interval. The usual fare of a donkey is a peck of chaff, which costs 1d., a quart of oats and a quart of beans, each averaging 1½d., and sometimes a pennyworth of hay, being an expenditure of 4d. or 5d. a day; but some give double this quantity in a prosperous time. Only one meal a day is given. Many costermongers told me, that their donkeys lived well when they themselves lived well.
"It's all nonsense to call donkeys stupid,"
said one costermonger to me; "them's stupid that
calls them so: they're sensible. Not long since
I worked Guildford with my donkey-cart and a
boy. Jack (the donkey) was slow and heavy in
coming back, until we got in sight of the lights
at Vauxhall-gate, and then he trotted on like
one o'clock, he did indeed! just as if he smelt
it was London besides seeing it, and knew he
was at home. He had a famous appetite in the
country, and the fresh grass did him good. I
gave a country lad 2d. to mind him in a green
lane there. I wanted my own boy to do so, but
he said, `I'll see you further first.' A London
boy hates being by himself in a lone country
part. He's afraid of being burked; he is
indeed. One can't quarrel with a lad when
Column 2
he's away with one in the country; he's very
useful. I feed my donkey well. I sometimes
give him a carrot for a luxury, but carrots are
dear now. He's fond of mashed potatoes, and
has many a good mash when I can buy them at
4lb. a penny."
"There was a friend of mine," said another
man, "had great trouble about his donkey a
few months back. I saw part of it, and knew
all about it. He was doing a little work on a
Sunday morning at Wandsworth, and the poor
thing fell down dead. He was very fond of his
donkey and kind to it, and the donkey was very
fond of him. He thought he wouldn't leave
the poor creature he'd had a good while, and
had been out with in all weathers, by the road
side; so he dropped all notion of doing business,
and with help got the poor dead thing into his
cart; its head lolloping over the end of the
cart, and its poor eyes staring at nothing.
He thought he'd drag it home and bury it
somewheres. It wasn't for the value he dragged
it, for what's a dead donkey worth? There
was a few persons about him, and they was all
quiet and seemed sorry for the poor fellow and
for his donkey; but the church-bells struck up,
and up came a `crusher,' and took the man up,
and next day he was fined 10s., I can't exactly
say for what. He never saw no more of the
animal, and lost his stock as well as his
donkey."
The costermongers, though living by buying and selling, are seldom or never capitalists. It is estimated that not more than one-fourth of the entire body trade upon their own property. Some borrow their stock money, others borrow the stock itself, others again borrow the donkey- carts, barrows, or baskets, in which their stock is carried round, whilst others borrow even the weights and measures by which it is meted out.
The reader, however uninformed he may be as
to the price the poor usually have to pay for any
loans they may require, doubtlessly need not be
told that the remuneration exacted for the use
of the above-named commodities is not merely
confined to the legal 5l. per centum per annum;
still many of even the most "knowing" will
hardly be able to credit the fact that the ordi-
nary rate of interest in the costermongers' money-
market amounts to 20 per cent. per week, or no
less than 1040l. a year, for every 100l. advanced.
But the iniquity of this usury in the present
instance is felt, not so much by the costermon-
gers themselves, as by the poor people whom
they serve; for, of course, the enormous rate of
interest must be paid out of the profits on the
goods they sell, and consequently added to the
price, so that coupling this overcharge with the
customary short allowance -- in either weight or
measure, as the case may be -- we can readily
perceive how cruelly the poor are defrauded, and
how they not only get often too little for what
they do, but have as often to pay too much for
what they buy.
Premising thus much, I shall now proceed to
describe the terms upon which the barrow, the
cart, the basket, the weights, the measures, the
stock-money, or the stock, is usually advanced
to the needy costermongers by their more
thrifty brethren.
The hire of a barrow is 3d. a day, or 1s. a
week, for the six winter months; and 4d. a day,
or 1s. 6d. a week, for the six summer months.
Some are to be had rather lower in the summer,
but never for less than 4d. -- sometimes for not less
than 6d. on a Saturday, when not unfrequently
every barrow in London is hired. No security
and no deposit is required, but the lender satis-
fies himself that the borrower is really what he
represents himself to be. I am informed that
5,000 hired barrows are now in the hands of the
London costermongers, at an average rental of
3l. 5s. each, or 16,250l. a year. One man lets
out 120 yearly, at a return (dropping the 5s.) of
360l.; while the cost of a good barrow, new, is
2l. 12s., and in the autumn and winter they may
be bought new, or "as good as new," at 30s. each; so that reckoning each to cost this barrow-
letter 2l. each, he receives 360l. rent or interest
-- exactly 150 per cent. per annum for pro-
perty which originally cost but 240l., and
property which is still as good for the ensuing
year's business as for the past. One man has
rented a barrow for eight years, during which pe-
riod he has paid 26l. for what in the first instance
did not cost more than twice as many shillings,
and which he must return if he discontinues its
use. "I know men well to do," said an intelligent
costermonger, "who have paid 1s. and 1s. 6d. a week for a barrow for three, four, and five
years; and they can't be made to understand
that it's rather high rent for what might cost
40s. at first. They can't see they are losers.
One barrow-lender sends his son out, mostly on
a Sunday, collecting his rents (for barrows), but
he's not a hard man." Some of the lenders
complain that their customers pay them irregu-
larly and cheat them often, and that in conse-
quence they must charge high; while the
"borrowers" declare that it is very seldom indeed
that a man "shirks" the rent for his barrow,
generally believing that he has made an advan-
tageous bargain, and feeling the want of his
vehicle, if he lose it temporarily. Let the
lenders, however, be deceived by many, still, it
is evident, that the rent charged for barrows is
most exorbitant, by the fact, that all who take
to the business become men of considerable
property in a few years.
Donkey-carts are rarely hired. "If there's
2,000 donkey and pony-carts in London, more
or less, not 200 of them's borrowed; but of
barrows five to two is borrowed." A donkey-
cart costs from 2l. to 10l.; 3l. 10s. being an
average price. The hire is 2s. or 2s. 6d. a week.
The harness costs 2l. 10s. new, but is bought,
nineteen times out of twenty, second-hand, at
from 2s. 6d. to 20s. The donkeys themselves
are not let out on hire, though a costermonger
may let out his donkey to another in the trade
Column 2
when he does not require its services; the usual
sum paid for the hire of a donkey is 2s. 6d. or
3s. per week. The cost price of a pony varies
from 5l. to 13l.; that of a donkey from 1l. to 3l.
There may be six donkeys, or more, in coster-
monger use, to one pony. Some traffic almost
weekly in these animals, liking the excitement
of such business.
The repairs to barrows, carts, and harness are
almost always effected by the costermongers
themselves.
"Shallows" (baskets) which cost 1s. and 1s. 6d., are let out at 1d. a day; but not five in 100 of
those in use are borrowed, as their low price
places them at the costermonger's command.
A pewter quart-pot, for measuring onions, &c.,
is let out at 2d. a day, its cost being 2s. Scales
are 2d., and a set of weights 1d. a day.
Another common mode of usury is in the
lending of stock-money. This is lent by the
costermongers who have saved the means for
such use of their funds, and by beer-shop
keepers. The money-lending costermongers
are the most methodical in their usury --
1,040l. per cent. per annum, as was before
stated, being the rate of interest usually charged.
It is seldom that a lower sum than 10s. is bor-
rowed, and never a higher sum than 2l. When
a stranger applies for a loan, the money-lender
satisfies himself as I have described of the bar-
row-lender. He charges 2d. a day for a loan
of 2s. 6d.; 3d. a day for 5s.; 6d. a day for 10s.; and 1s. a day for 1l. If the daily payments are
rendered regularly, at a month's end the terms
are reduced to 6d. a week for 5s.; 1s. for 10s.; and 2s. for 1l. "That's reckoned an extraor-
dinary small interest," was said to me, "only
4d. a day for a pound." The average may be 3s. a week for the loan of 20s.; it being only to a
few that a larger sum than 20s. is lent. "I paid
2s. a week for 1l. for a whole year," said one
man, "or 5l. 4s. for the use of a pound, and then
I was liable to repay the 1l." The principal,
however, is seldom repaid; nor does the lender
seem to expect it, though he will occasionally
demand it. One money-lender is considered to
have a floating capital of 150l. invested in loans
to costermongers. If he receive 2s. per week per
1l. for but twenty-six weeks in the year (and he
often receives it for the fifty-two weeks) -- his
150l. brings him in 390l. a year.
Sometimes a loan is effected only for a day,
generally a Saturday, as much as 2s. 6d. being
sometimes given for the use of 5s.; the 5s. being
of course repaid in the evening.
The money-lenders are subject to at least
twice the extent of loss to which the barrow-
lender is exposed, as it is far oftener that money
is squandered (on which of course no interest
can be paid) than that a barrow is disposed of.
The money-lenders, (from the following state-
ment, made to me by one who was in the habit
of borrowing,) pursue their business in a not
very dissimilar manner to that imputed to those
who advance larger sums: -- "If I want to bor-
row in a hurry," said my informant, "as I may
The beer-shop keepers lend on far easier
terms, perhaps at half the interest exacted by
the others, and without any regular system of
charges; but they look sharp after the repay-
ment, and expect a considerable outlay in beer,
and will only lend to good customers; they how-
ever have even lent money without interest.
"In the depth of last winter," said a man of
good character to me, "I borrowed 5s. The
beer-shop keeper wouldn't lend; he'll rather
lend to men doing well and drinking. But I
borrowed it at 6d. a day interest, and that 6d. a day I paid exactly four weeks, Sundays and
all; and that was 15s. in thirty days for the use
of 5s. I was half starving all the time, and then
I had a slice of luck, and paid the 5s. back slap,
and got out of it."
Many shopkeepers lend money to the stall-
keepers, whom they know from standing near
their premises, and that without interest. They
generally lend, however, to the women, as they
think the men want to get drunk with it.
"Indeed, if it wasn't for the women," said a
costermonger to me, "half of us might go to
the Union."
Another mode of usurious lending or trading
is, as I said before, to provide the costermonger
-- not with the stock-money -- but with the stock
itself. This mode also is highly profitable to
the usurer, who is usually a costermonger, but
sometimes a greengrocer. A stock of fruit, fish,
or vegetables, with a barrow for its conveyance,
is entrusted to a street-seller, the usual way
being to "let him have a sovereign's worth."
The value of this, however, at the market cost,
rarely exceeds 14s., still the man entrusted with
it must carry 20s. to his creditor, or he will
hardly be trusted a second time. The man
who trades with the stock is not required
to pay the 20s. on the first day of the transac-
tion, as he may not have realised so much,
but he must pay some of it, generally 10s., and must pay the remainder the next day or
the money-lender will decline any subsequent
dealings.
It may be thought, as no security is given,
and as the costermongering barrow, stock, or
money-lender never goes to law for the recovery
of any debt or goods, that the per centage is
not so very exorbitant after all. But I ascer-
Column 2
tained that not once in twenty times was the
money lender exposed to any loss by the non-
payment of his usurious interest, while his
profits are enormous. The borrower knows
that if he fail in his payment, the lender will
acquaint the other members of his fraternity,
so that no future loan will be attainable, and
the costermonger's business may be at an end.
One borrower told me that the re-payment of
his loan of 2l., borrowed two years ago at 4s. a
week, had this autumn been reduced to 2s. 6d. a week: "He's a decent man I pay now," he
said; "he has twice forgiven me a month at a
time when the weather was very bad and the
times as bad as the weather. Before I borrowed
of him I had dealings with -- . He was a
scurf. If I missed a week, and told him I
would make it up next week, `That won't do,'
he'd say, `I'll turn you up. I'll take d -- d
good care to stop you. I'll have you to rights.'
If I hadn't satisfied him, as I did at last, I
could never have got credit again; never." I
am informed that most of the money-lenders,
if a man has paid for a year or so, will now
"drop it for a month or so in a very hard-up
time, and go on again." There is no I.O.U.
or any memorandum given to the usurer.
"There's never a slip of paper about it, sir,"
I was told.
I may add that a very intelligent man from
whom I derived information, said to me con-
cerning costermongers never going to law to
recover money owing to them, nor indeed for
any purpose: "If any one steals anything from
me -- and that, as far as I know, never happened
but once in ten years -- and I catch him, I take
it out of him on the spot. I give him a jolly
good hiding and there's an end of it. I know
very well, sir, that costers are ignorant men, but
in my opinion" (laughing) "our never going
to law shows that in that point we are in
advance of the aristocrats. I never heard of a
coster in a law court, unless he was in trouble
(charged with some offence) -- for assaulting a
crusher, or anybody he had quarrelled with, or
something of that kind."
The barrow-lender, when not regularly paid,
sends some one, or goes himself, and carries
away the barrow.
My personal experience with this peculiar
class justifies me in saying that they are far
less dishonest than they are usually believed to
be, and much more honest than their wandering
habits, their want of education and "principle"
would lead even the most charitable to suppose.
Since I have exhibited an interest in the suffer-
ings and privations of these neglected people,
I have, as the reader may readily imagine, had
many applications for assistance, and without
vanity, I believe I may say, that as far as
my limited resources would permit, I have
striven to extricate the street-sellers from the
grasp of the usurer. Some to whom I have
lent small sums (for gifts only degrade strug-
gling honest men into the apathy of beggars)
have taken the money with many a protesta-
Those who are unacquainted with the charac-
ter of the people may feel inclined to doubt the
trustworthiness of the class, but it is an extraor-
dinary fact that but few of the costermongers
fail to repay the money advanced to them, even
at the present ruinous rate of interest. The
poor, it is my belief, have not yet been suffi-
ciently tried in this respect; -- pawnbrokers, loan-
offices, tally-shops, dolly-shops, are the only
parties who will trust them -- but, as a startling
proof of the good faith of the humbler classes
generally, it may be stated that Mrs. Chisholm
(the lady who has exerted herself so benevolently
in the cause of emigration) has lent out, at diffe-
rent times, as much as 160,000l. that has been
entrusted to her for the use of the "lower
orders," and that the whole of this large amount
has been returned -- with the exception of 12l.!
I myself have often given a sovereign
to professed thieves to get "changed," and
never knew one to make off with the money.
Depend upon it, if we would really improve,
Column 2
we must begin by elevating instead of de-
grading.
costermongers call by the appropriate name of
"slang." "There are not half so many
slangs as there was eighteen months ago,"
said a `general dealer' to me. "You see,
sir, the letters in the Morning Chronicle set
people a talking, and some altered their way of
business. Some was very angry at what was
said in the articles on the street-sellers, and
swore that costers was gentlemen, and that
they'd smash the men's noses that had told
you, sir, if they knew who they were. There's
plenty of costers wouldn't use slangs at all, if
people would give a fair price; but you see
the boys will try it on for their bunts, and how
is a man to sell fine cherries at 4d. a pound
that cost him 3½d., when there's a kid along-
side of him a selling his `tol' at 2d. a pound, and
singing it out as bold as brass? So the men
slangs it, and cries `2d. a pound,' and gives
half-pound, as the boy does; which brings it to
the same thing. We doesn't 'dulterate our
goods like the tradesmen -- that is, the regular
hands doesn't. It wouldn't be easy, as you say,
to 'dulterate cabbages or oysters; but we deals
fair to all that's fair to us, -- and that's more
than many a tradesman does, for all their
juries."
The slang quart is a pint and a half. It is
made precisely like the proper quart; and the
maker, I was told, "knows well enough what it's
for, as it's charged, new, 6d. more than a true
quart measure; but it's nothing to him, as he
says, what it's for, so long as he gets his price."
The slang quart is let out at 2d. a day -- 1d. extra
being charged "for the risk." The slang pint
holds in some cases three-fourths of the just
quantity, having a very thick bottom; others
hold only half a pint, having a false bottom
half-way up. These are used chiefly in mea-
suring nuts, of which the proper quantity is
hardly ever given to the purchaser; "but, then,"
it was often said, or implied to me, the "price is
all the lower, and people just brings it on them-
selves, by wanting things for next to nothing;
so it's all right; it's people's own faults." The
hire of the slang pint is 2d. per day.
The scales used are almost all true, but the
weights are often beaten out flat to look large,
and are 4, 5, 6, or even 7 oz. deficient in a pound,
and in the same relative proportion with other
weights. The charge is 2d., 3d., and 4d. a day
for a pair of scales and a set of slang weights.
The wooden measures -- such as pecks, half
pecks, and quarter pecks -- are not let out slang,
but the bottoms are taken out by the costers, and
put in again half an inch or so higher up. "I
call this," said a humorous dealer to me, " slop-
work, or the cutting-system."
One candid costermonger expressed his per-
fect contempt of slangs, as fit only for bunglers,
as he could always "work slang" with a true
In conclusion, it is but just I should add that
there seems to be a strong disposition on the
part of the more enlightened of the class to
adopt the use of fair weights and measures; and
that even among the less scrupulous portion of
the body, short allowance seems to be given
chiefly from a desire to be even with a "scaly
customer." The coster makes it a rule never
to refuse an offer, and if people will give him
less than what he considers his proper price,
why -- he gives them less than their proper quan-
tity. As a proof of the growing honesty among
this class, many of the better disposed have re-
cently formed themselves into a society, the
members of which are (one and all) pledged not
only to deal fairly with their customers, but to
compel all other street-sellers to do the same.
With a view of distinguishing themselves to the
public, they have come to the resolution of wear-
ing a medal, on which shall be engraved a par-
ticular number, so that should any imposition
be practised by any of their body, the public
will have the opportunity of complaining to the
Committee of the Association, and having the
individual (if guilty) immediately expelled from
the society.
Besides the modes of trading on borrowed capital above described, there is still another means of obtaining stock prevalent among the London costermongers. It is a common prac- tice with some of the more provident coster- mongers, who buy more largely -- for the sake of buying cheaply -- than is required for the supply of their own customers, to place goods in the hands of young men who are unable to buy goods on their own account, "on half profits," as it is called. The man adopting this means of doing a more extensive business, says to any poor fellow willing to work on those terms, "Here's a barrow of vegetables to carry round, and the profit on them will be 2s.; you sell them, and half is for yourself." The man sells them accordingly; if however he fail to realize the 2s. anticipated profit, his employer must still be paid 1s., even if the "seller" prove that only 13d. was cleared; so that the costermonger capitalist, as he may be described, is always, to use the words of one of my informants, "on the profitable side of the hedge."
Boys are less frequently employed on half-
Column 2
profits than young men; and I am assured that
instances of these young men wronging their
employers are hardly ever known.
costermongers, and these are the "boys" de-
puted to sell a man's goods for a certain sum,
all over that amount being the boys' profit
or "bunts." Almost every costermonger who
trades through the streets with his barrow is
accompanied by a boy. The ages of these lads
vary from ten to sixteen, there are few above
sixteen, for the lads think it is then high time
for them to start on their own account. These
boys are useful to the man in "calling,"
their shrill voices being often more audible than
the loudest pitch of an adult's lungs. Many
persons, moreover, I am assured, prefer buying
of a boy, believing that if the lad did not suc-
ceed in selling his goods he would be knocked
about when he got home; others think that they
are safer in a boy's hands, and less likely to be
cheated; these, however, are equally mistaken
notions. The boys also are useful in pushing at
the barrow, or in drawing it along by tugging at a
rope in front. Some of them are the sons of the
costermongers; some go round to the coster-
mongers' abodes and say: "Will you want me
to-morrow?" "Shall I come and give you a
lift?" The parents of the lads thus at large are,
when they have parents, either unable to sup-
port them, or, if able, prefer putting their money
to other uses, (such as drinking); and so the lads
have to look out for themselves, or, as they say,
"pick up a few halfpence and a bit of grub as
we can." Such lads, however, are the smallest
class of costermongering youths; and are some-
times called "cas'alty boys," or "nippers."
The boys -- and nearly the whole of them --
soon become very quick, and grow masters of
slang, in from six weeks to two or three months.
"I suppose," said one man familiar with their
character, "they'd learn French as soon, if they
was thrown into the way of it. They must
learn slang to live, and as they have to wait at
markets every now and then, from one hour to
six, they associate one with another and carry
on conversations in slang about the "penny gaffs"
(theatres), criticising the actors; or may be they
toss the pieman, if they've got any ha'pence,
or else they chaff the passers by. The older
ones may talk about their sweethearts; but
they always speak of them by the name of
`nammow' (girls).
"The boys are severe critics too (continued
my informant) on dancing. I heard one say
to another; `What do you think of Johnny
Millicent's new step?' for they always recognise
a new step, or they discuss the female dancer's
legs, and not very decently. At other times
the boys discuss the merits or demerits of their
masters, as to who feeds them best. I have
heard one say, `O, aint Bob stingy? We have
bread and cheese!' Another added; `We have
Some of these lads are paid by the day,
generally from 2d. or 3d. and their food, and as
much fruit as they think fit to eat, as by that
they soon get sick of it. They generally carry
home fruit in their pockets for their playmates,
or brothers, or sisters; the costermongers allow
this, if they are satisfied that the pocketing
is not for sale. Some lads are engaged by
the week, having from 1s. to 1s. 6d., and their
food when out with their employer. Their
lodging is found only in a few cases, and then
they sleep in the same room with their master and
mistress. Of master or mistress, however, they
never speak, but of Jack and Bet. They behave
respectfully to the women, who are generally
kind to them. They soon desert a very surly
or stingy master; though such a fellow could get
fifty boys next day if he wanted them, but not
lads used to the trade, for to these he's well
known by their talk one with another, and they
soon tell a man his character very plainly -- "very plainly indeed, sir, and to his face too," said one.
Some of theśe boys are well beaten by their
employers; this they put up with readily enough,
if they experience kindness at the hands of the
man's wife; for, as I said before, parties that
have never thought of marriage, if they live to-
gether, call one another husbands and wives.
In "working the country" these lads are put
on the same footing as their masters, with whom
they eat, drink, and sleep; but they do not
gamble with them. A few, however, go out and
tempt country boys to gamble, and -- as an almost
inevitable consequence -- to lose. "Some of the
boys," said one who had seen it often, "will
keep a number of countrymen in a beer-shop in
a roar for the hour, while the countrymen ply
them with beer, and some of the street-lads can
drink a good deal. I've known three bits of boys
order a pot of beer each, one after the other,
each paying his share, and a quartern of gin each
after that -- drunk neat; they don't understand
water. Drink doesn't seem to affect them as it
does men. I don't know why." "Some coster-
mongers," said another informant, "have been
known, when they've taken a fancy to a boy --
I know of two -- to dress him out like themselves,
silk handkerchiefs and all; for if they didn't
find them silk handkerchiefs, the boys would
soon get them out of their `bunts.' They like silk
handkerchiefs, for if they lose all their money
gambling, they can then pledge their handker-
chiefs."
I have mentioned the term "bunts." Bunts is
the money made by the boys in this manner: --
If a costermonger, after having sold a sufficiency,
has 2s. or 3s. worth of goods left, and is anxious
to get home, he says to the boy, "Work these
streets, and bring me 2s. 6d. for the tol," (lot)
which the costermonger knows by his eye -- for
he seldom measures or counts -- is easily worth
that money. The lad then proceeds to sell the
things entrusted to him, and often shows great
ingenuity in so doing. If, for instance, turnips
Column 2
be tied up in penny bunches, the lad will open
some of them, so as to spread them out to nearly
twice their previous size, and if any one ask if
that be a penn'orth, he will say, "Here's a larger
for 1½d., marm," and so palm off a penny bunch
at 1½d. Out of each bunch of onions he takes
one or two, and makes an extra bunch. All that
the lad can make in this way over the half-crown
is his own, and called "bunts." Boys have made
from 6d. to 1s. 6d. "bunts," and this day after
day. Many of them will, in the course of their
traffic, beg old boots or shoes, if they meet with
better sort of people, and so "work it to rights,"
as they call it among themselves; servants often
give them cast-off clothes. It is seldom that a
boy carries home less than the stipulated sum.
The above is what is understood as "fair
bunts."
"Unfair bunts" is what the lad may make
unknown to his master; as, if a customer call
from the area for goods cried at 2d., the lad may
get 2½d., by pretending what he had carried was
a superior sort to that called at 2d., -- or by any
similar trick.
"I have known some civil and industrious
boys," said a costermonger to me, "get to save
a few shillings, and in six months start with a
shallow, and so rise to a donkey-cart. The
greatest drawback to struggling boys is their
sleeping in low lodging-houses, where they are
frequently robbed, or trepanned to part with
their money, or else they get corrupted."
Some men employ from four to twelve boys,
sending them out with shallows and barrows,
the boys bringing home the proceeds. The men
who send lads out in this way, count the things,
and can tell to a penny what can be realised on
them. They neither pay nor treat the boys well,
I am told, and are looked upon by the other
costermongers as extortioners, or unfair dealers,
making money by trading on poor lads' necessi-
ties, who serve them to avoid starvation. These
men are called "Scurfs." If the boys working
for them make bunts, or are suspected of
making bunts, there is generally "a row" about
it.
The bunts is for the most part the gambling
money, as well as the money for the "penny
gaff," the "twopenny hop," the tobacco, and the
pudding money of the boys. "More would
save their wages and their bunts," was said to
me on good authority, "but they have no
place to keep their money in, and don't under-
stand anything about savings banks. Many of
these lads are looked on with suspicion by the
police, and treated like suspected folks; but in
my opinion they are not thieves, or they wouldn't
work so hard; for a thief's is a much easier life
than a costermonger's."
When a boy begins business on his own ac-
count, or "sets up," as they call it, he purchases
a shallow, which costs at least 1s., and a half
hundred of herrings, 1s. 6d. By the sale of the
herrings he will clear 1s., going the round he
has been accustomed to, and then trade on the
2s. 6d. Or, if it be fruit time, he will trade in
There are I am assured from 200 to 300
costers, who, in the busier times of the year,
send out four youths or lads each on an
average. The young men thus sent out gene-
rally live with the costermonger, paying 7s. a week for board, lodging and washing. These
youths, I was told by one who knew them
well, were people who "didn't care to work for
themselves, because they couldn't keep their
money together; it would soon all go; and they
must keep it together for their masters. They
are not fed badly, but then they make `bunts'
sometimes, and it goes for grub when they're
out, so they eat less at home."
one of their number to address me by letter.
My correspondent -- a well-informed and well-
educated man -- describes himself as "being
one of those that have been unfortunately thrust
into that precarious way of obtaining a living,
not by choice but circumstances." The writer
then proceeds to say: "No person but those
actually connected with the streets can tell the
exertion, anxiety, and difficulties we have to
undergo; and I know for a fact it induces a
great many to drink that would not do so,
only to give them a stimulant to bear up
against the troubles that they have to contend
with; and so it ultimately becomes habitual.
I could point out many instances of the kind.
My chief object in addressing you is to give my
humble suggestion as to the best means of alle-
viating our present position in society, and
establishing us in the eyes of the public as a
respectable body of men, honestly endeavouring
to support our families, without becoming
chargeable to the parish, and to show that we
are not all the degraded class we are at present
thought to be, subject to the derision of every
passer by, and all looked upon as extortioners
and the confederates of thieves. It is grievous
to see children, as soon as they are able to speak,
thrust into the streets to sell, and in many in-
stances, I am sorry to state, to support their
parents. Kind sir, picture to yourself a group
of those children mixing together indiscrimi-
nately -- the good with the bad -- all uneducated --
and without that parental care which is so essen-
tial for youth -- and judge for yourself the result:
the lads in some instances take to thieving,
(this being easier for a living), and the girls to
prostitution; and so they pass the greater part of
their time in gaol, or get transported. Even
those who are honestly disposed cannot have a
chance of bettering their condition, in conse-
quence of their being uneducated, so that they
Column 2
often turn out brutal husbands and bad fathers.
Surely, sir, Government could abolish in a
measure this juvenile trading, so conducive to
crime and so injurious to the shopkeeper, who
is highly rated. How is it possible, if children
congregate around his door with the very articles
he may deal in, that he can meet the de-
mands for rates and taxes; whereas the
educated man, brought by want to sell in the
streets, would not do so, but keep himself
apart from the shopkeeper, and not merit
his enmity, and the interference of the police,
which he necessarily claims. I have procured
an existence (with a few years' exception) in the
streets for the last twenty-five years as a general
salesman of perishable and imperishable articles,
and should be most happy to see anything done
for the benefit of my class. This juvenile trading
I consider the root of the evil; after the removal
of this, the costermongers might, by classifying
and co-operation, render themselves compara-
tively happy, in their position, and become
acknowledged members of society."
Another costermonger, in conversing with me
concerning these young traders, said, that many
of them would ape the vices of men: mere
urchins would simulate drunkenness, or boast,
with many an exaggeration, of their drinking
feats. They can get as much as they please at
the public-houses; and this too, I may add,
despite the 43rd clause in the Police Act, which
enacts, that "every person, licensed to deal in
exciseable liquors within the said (Metropolitan
Police) District, who shall knowingly supply any
sort of distilled exciseable liquor to be drunk
upon the premises, to any boy or girl, apparently
under the age of sixteen years, shall be liable to
a penalty of not more than 20s.;" and upon a
second conviction to 40s. penalty; and on a
third to 5l.
have already intimated) merely understood as
meaning a complete knowledge of the art of
"buying in the cheapest market and selling in
the dearest." There are few lads whose training
extends beyond this. The father is the tutor,
who takes the boy to the different markets,
instructs him in the art of buying, and when
the youth is perfect on this point, the parent's
duty is supposed to have been performed.
Nearly all these boys are remarkable for their
precocious sharpness. To use the words of one
of the class, "these young ones are as sharp
as terriers, and learns every dodge of business
in less than half no time. There's one I knows
about three feet high, that's up to the business
as clever as a man of thirty. Though he's only
twelve years old he'll chaff down a peeler so
uncommon severe, that the only way to stop
him is to take him in charge!"
It is idle to imagine that these lads, possessed
of a mental acuteness almost wonderful, will
not educate themselves in vice, if we neglect
As soon as a boy is old enough to shout well
and loudly, his father takes him into the streets.
Some of these youths are not above seven years
of age, and it is calculated that not more than
one in a hundred has ever been to a school of
any kind. The boy walks with the barrow, or
guides the donkey, shouting by turns with the
father, who, when the goods are sold, will as a
reward, let him ride home on the tray. The
lad attends all markets with his father, who
teaches him his business and shows him his
tricks of trade; "for," said a coster, "a governor
in our line leaves the knowledge of all his
dodges to his son, jist as the rich coves do their
tin."
The life of a coster-boy is a very hard one.
In summer he will have to be up by four
o'clock in the morning, and in winter he is
never in bed after six. When he has re-
turned from market, it is generally his duty
to wash the goods and help dress the barrow.
About nine he begins his day's work, shouting
whilst the father pushes; and as very often the
man has lost his voice, this share of the
labour is left entirely to him. When a coster
has regular customers, the vegetables or fish
are all sold by twelve o'clock, and in many
coster families the lad is then packed off with
fruit to hawk in the streets. When the work
is over, the father will perhaps take the boy to
a public-house with him, and give him part of
his beer. Sometimes a child of four or five is
taken to the tap-room, especially if he be pretty
and the father proud of him. "I have seen,"
said a coster to me, "a baby of five year old
reeling drunk in a tap-room. His governor
did it for the lark of the thing, to see him chuck
hisself about -- sillyfied like."
The love of gambling soon seizes upon the
coster boy. Youths of about twelve or so will
as soon as they can get away from work go to
a public-house and play cribbage for pints of
beer, or for a pint a corner. They generally
continue playing till about midnight, and
rarely -- except on a Sunday -- keep it up all
night.
It ordinarily happens that when a lad is
about thirteen, he quarrels with his father, and
gets turned away from home. Then he is
forced to start for himself. He knows where
he can borrow stock-money and get his barrow,
for he is as well acquainted with the markets is
the oldest hand at the business, and children
may often be seen in the streets under-selling
their parents. "How's it possible," said a
woman, "for people to live when there's their
own son at the end of the court a-calling his
Column 2
goods as cheap again as we can afford to sell
ourn."
If the boy is lucky in trade, his next want is
to get a girl to keep home for him. I was
assured, that it is not at all uncommon for a
lad of fifteen to be living with a girl of the
same age, as man and wife. It creates no
disgust among his class, but seems rather to
give him a position among such people. Their
courtship does not take long when once the
mate has been fixed upon. The girl is invited
to "raffles," and treated to "twopenny hops,"
and half-pints of beer. Perhaps a silk neck
handkerchief -- a "King's-man" is given as
a present; though some of the lads will, when
the arrangement has been made, take the gift
back again and wear it themselves. The boys
are very jealous, and if once made angry behave
with great brutality to the offending girl. A
young fellow of about sixteen told me, as he
seemed to grow angry at the very thought,
"If I seed my gal a talking to another chap
I'd fetch her sich a punch of the nose as
should plaguy quick stop the whole business."
Another lad informed me, with a knowing look,
"that the gals -- it was a rum thing now he
come to think on it -- axully liked a feller for
walloping them. As long as the bruises hurted,
she was always thinking on the cove as gived
'em her." After a time, if the girl continues
faithful, the young coster may marry her; but
this is rarely the case, and many live with
their girls until they have grown to be men,
or perhaps they may quarrel the very first
year, and have a fight and part.
These boys hate any continuous work. So
strong is this objection to continuity that they
cannot even remain selling the same article for
more than a week together. Moreover none of
them can be got to keep stalls. They must be
perpetually on the move -- or to use their own
words "they like a roving life." They all
of them delight in dressing "flash" as they
call it. If a "governor" was to try and
"palm off" his old cord jacket upon the lad
that worked with him, the boy wouldn't take
it. "Its too big and seedy for me," he'd say,
"and I aint going to have your leavings."
They try to dress like the men, with large
pockets in their cord jackets and plenty of
them. Their trowsers too must fit tight at the
knee, and their boots they like as good as pos-
sible. A good "King's-man," a plush skull
cap, and a seam down the trowsers are the great
points of ambition with the coster boys.
A lad about fourteen informed me that "brass
buttons, like a huntman's, with foxes' heads on
em, looked stunning flash, and the gals liked
em." As for the hair, they say it ought to be
long in front, and done in "figure-six" curls,
or twisted back to the ear "Newgate-knocker
style." "But the worst of hair is," they add,
"that it is always getting cut off in quod, all
along of muzzling the bobbies."
The whole of the coster-boys are fond of
good living. I was told that when a lad started
his history as he could remember. He was a
tall stout boy, about sixteen years old, with a
face utterly vacant. His two heavy lead-
coloured eyes stared unmeaningly at me, and,
beyond a constant anxiety to keep his front
lock curled on his cheek, he did not exhibit the
slightest trace of feeling. He sank into his
seat heavily and of a heap, and when once
settled down he remained motionless, with his
mouth open and his hands on his knees -- almost
as if paralyzed. He was dressed in all the slang
beauty of his class, with a bright red handker-
chief and unexceptionable boots.
"My father" he told me in a thick unim-
passioned voice, "was a waggoner, and worked
the country roads. There was two on us at
home with mother, and we used to play along
with the boys of our court, in Golding-lane, at
buttons and marbles. I recollects nothing more
than this -- only the big boys used to cheat like
bricks and thump us if we grumbled -- that's
all I recollects of my infancy, as you calls it.
Father I've heard tell died when I was three
and brother only a year old. It was worse luck
for us! -- Mother was so easy with us. I once
went to school for a couple of weeks, but the
cove used to fetch me a wipe over the knuckles
with his stick, and as I wasn't going to stand
that there, why you see I aint no great schol-
lard. We did as we liked with mother, she
was so precious easy, and I never learned any-
thing but playing buttons and making leaden
Column 2
`bonces,' that's all," (here the youth laughed
slightly.) "Mother used to be up and out very
early washing in families -- anything for a
living. She was a good mother to us. We
was left at home with the key of the room and
some bread and butter for dinner. Afore she
got into work -- and it was a goodish long time --
we was shocking hard up, and she pawned nigh
everything. Sometimes, when we had'nt no
grub at all, the other lads, perhaps, would give
us some of their bread and butter, but often our
stomachs used to ache with the hunger, and we
would cry when we was werry far gone. She
used to be at work from six in the morning till
ten o'clock at night, which was a long time for
a child's belly to hold out again, and when it
was dark we would go and lie down on the bed
and try and sleep until she came home with the
food. I was eight year old then.
"A man as know'd mother, said to her, `Your
boy's got nothing to do, let him come along with
me and yarn a few ha'pence,' and so I became
a coster. He gave me 4d. a morning and my
breakfast. I worked with him about three
year, until I learnt the markets, and then I and
brother got baskets of our own, and used to
keep mother. One day with another, the two
on us together could make 2s. 6d. by selling
greens of a morning, and going round to the
publics with nuts of a evening, till about ten
o'clock at night. Mother used to have a bit
of fried meat or a stew ready for us when we
got home, and by using up the stock as we
couldn't sell, we used to manage pretty tidy.
When I was fourteen I took up with a girl.
She lived in the same house as we did, and I
used to walk out of a night with her and give
her half-pints of beer at the publics. She were
about thirteen, and used to dress werry nice,
though she weren't above middling pretty.
Now I'm working for another man as gives me
a shilling a week, victuals, washing, and lodging,
just as if I was one of the family.
"On a Sunday I goes out selling, and all I
yarns I keeps. As for going to church, why, I
can't afford it, -- besides, to tell the truth, I
don't like it well enough. Plays, too, ain't in
my line much; I'd sooner go to a dance -- its
more livelier. The `penny gaffs' is rather more
in my style; the songs are out and out, and
makes our gals laugh. The smuttier the better,
I thinks; bless you! the gals likes it as much
as we do. If we lads ever has a quarrel, why,
we fights for it. [unclear: ] I was to let a cove off once,
he'd do it again but I never give a lad a
chance, so long as I can get anigh him. I
never heard about Christianity, but if a cove
was to fetch me a lick of the head, I'd give it
him again, whether he was a big 'un or a little
'un. I'd precious soon see a henemy of mine
shot afore I'd forgive him, -- where's the use?
Do I understand what behaving to your neigh-
bour is? -- In coorse I do. If a feller as lives
next me wanted a basket of mine as I wasn't
using, why, he might have it; if I was working
it though, I'd see him further! I can under-
are shops which have been turned into a kind of
temporary theatre (admission one penny), where
dancing and singing take place every night.
Rude pictures of the performers are arranged
outside, to give the front a gaudy and attractive
look, and at night-time coloured lamps and
transparencies are displayed to draw an au-
dience. These places are called by the costers
"Penny Gaffs;" and on a Monday night as
many as six performances will take place, each
one having its two hundred visitors.
It is impossible to contemplate the ignorance
and immorality of so numerous a class as that
of the costermongers, without wishing to discover
the cause of their degradation. Let any one
curious on this point visit one of these penny
shows, and he will wonder that any trace of
virtue and honesty should remain among the
people. Here the stage, instead of being the
means for illustrating a moral precept, is turned
into a platform to teach the cruelest debauchery.
The audience is usually composed of children so
young, that these dens become the school-rooms
where the guiding morals of a life are picked
up; and so precocious are the little things, that
the girl of nine will, from constant attendance at
such places, have learnt to understand the filthi-
est sayings, and laugh at them as loudly as the
grown-up lads around her. What notions can
the young female form of marriage and chastity,
when the penny theatre rings with applause at
the performance of a scene whose sole point
turns upon the pantomimic imitation of the un-
restrained indulgence of the most corrupt appe-
tites of our nature? How can the lad learn to
check his hot passions and think honesty and
virtue admirable, when the shouts around him
impart a glory to a descriptive song so painfully
corrupt, that it can only have been made tole-
Column 2
rable by the most habitual excess? The men
who preside over these infamous places know
too well the failings of their audiences. They
know that these poor children require no nicely-
turned joke to make the evening pass merrily,
and that the filth they utter needs no double
meaning to veil its obscenity. The show that
will provide the most unrestrained debauchery
will have the most crowded benches; and to
gain this point, things are acted and spoken
that it is criminal even to allude to.
Not wishing to believe in the description
which some of the more intelligent of the cos-
termongers had given of these places, it was
thought better to visit one of them, so that all
exaggeration might be avoided. One of the
least offensive of the exhibitions was fixed upon.
The "penny gaff" chosen was situated in a
broad street near Smithfield; and for a great
distance off, the jingling sound of music was
heard, and the gas-light streamed out into the
thick night air as from a dark lantern, glitter-
ing on the windows of the houses opposite, and
lighting up the faces of the mob in the road,
as on an illumination night. The front of a
large shop had been entirely removed, and the
entrance was decorated with paintings of the
"comic singers," in their most "humourous"
attitudes. On a table against the wall was
perched the band, playing what the costers call
"dancing tunes" with great effect, for the hole
at the money-taker's box was blocked up with
hands tendering the penny. The crowd with-
out was so numerous, that a policeman was in
attendance to preserve order, and push the boys
off the pavement -- the music having the effect of
drawing them insensibly towards the festooned
green-baize curtain.
The shop itself had been turned into a
waiting-room, and was crowded even to the top
of the stairs leading to the gallery on the first
floor. The ceiling of this "lobby" was painted
blue, and spotted with whitewash clouds, to re-
present the heavens; the boards of the trap-
door, and the laths that showed through the
holes in the plaster, being all of the same
colour. A notice was here posted, over the
canvass door leading into the theatre, to the
effect that "Ladies and Gentlemen to the front places must pay Twopence."
The visitors, with a few exceptions, were all
boys and girls, whose ages seemed to vary from
eight to twenty years. Some of the girls -- though
their figures showed them to be mere children --
were dressed in showy cotton-velvet polkas, and
wore dowdy feathers in their crushed bonnets.
They stood laughing and joking with the lads,
in an unconcerned, impudent manner, that was
almost appalling. Some of them, when tired
of waiting, chose their partners, and commenced
dancing grotesquely, to the admiration of the
lookers-on, who expressed their approbation in
obscene terms, that, far from disgusting the
poor little women, were received as compliments,
and acknowledged with smiles and coarse repar-
tees. The boys clustered together, smoking their
To discover the kind of entertainment, a lad
near me and my companion was asked "if
there was any flash dancing." With a knowing
wink the boy answered, "Lots! show their legs
and all, prime!" and immediately the boy fol-
lowed up his information by a request for a
"yennep" to get a "tib of occabot." After wait-
ing in the lobby some considerable time, the
performance inside was concluded, and the au-
dience came pouring out through the canvass
door.-As they had to pass singly, I noticed
them particularly. Above three-fourths of
them were women and girls, the rest consisting
chiefly of mere boys -- for out of about two
hundred persons I counted only eighteen men.
Forward they came, bringing an overpowering
stench with them, laughing and yelling as
they pushed their way through the waiting-
room. One woman carrying a sickly child
with a bulging forehead, was reeling drunk, the
saliva running down her mouth as she stared
about her with a heavy fixed eye. Two boys
were pushing her from side to side, while the
poor infant slept, breathing heavily, as if stupi-
fied, through the din. Lads jumping on girls'
shoulders, and girls laughing hysterically from
being tickled by the youths behind them, every
one shouting and jumping, presented a mad
scene of frightful enjoyment.
When these had left, a rush for places by
those in waiting began, that set at defiance the
blows and strugglings of a lady in spangles
who endeavoured to preserve order and take the
checks. As time was a great object with the
proprietor, the entertainment within began
directly the first seat was taken, so that the
lads without, rendered furious by the rattling
of the piano within, made the canvass partition
bulge in and out, with the strugglings of those
seeking admission, like a sail in a flagging
wind.
To form the theatre, the first floor had been
removed; the whitewashed beams however
still stretched from wall to wall. The lower
room had evidently been the warehouse, while
the upper apartment had been the sitting-room,
for the paper was still on the walls. A gallery,
with a canvass front, had been hurriedly built
up, and it was so fragile that the boards bent
under the weight of those above. The bricks
in the warehouse were smeared over with red
paint, and had a few black curtains daubed
upon them. The coster-youths require no very
Column 2
great scenic embellishment, and indeed the
stage -- which was about eight feet square --
could admit of none. Two jets of gas, like
those outside a butcher's shop, were placed on
each side of the proscenium, and proved very
handy for the gentlemen whose pipes required
lighting. The band inside the "theatre"
could not compare with the band without.
An old grand piano, whose canvass-covered
top extended the entire length of the stage,
sent forth its wiry notes under the be-ringed
fingers of a "professor Wilkinsini," while an-
other professional, with his head resting on his
violin, played vigorously, as he stared uncon-
cernedly at the noisy audience.
Singing and dancing formed the whole of the
hours' performance, and, of the two, the singing
was preferred. A young girl, of about fourteen
years of age, danced with more energy than
grace, and seemed to be well-known to the
spectators, who cheered her on by her Christian
name. When the dance was concluded, the
proprietor of the establishment threw down a
penny from the gallery, in the hopes that
others might be moved to similar acts of
generosity; but no one followed up the offer-
ing, so the young lady hunted after the
money and departed. The "comic singer," in
a battered hat and the huge bow to his cravat,
was received with deafening shouts. Several
songs were named by the costers, but the
"funny gentleman" merely requested them "to
hold their jaws," and putting on a "knowing"
look, sang a song, the whole point of which
consisted in the mere utterance of some filthy
word at the end of each stanza. Nothing, how-
ever, could have been more successful. The
lads stamped their feet with delight; the girls
screamed with enjoyment. Once or twice a
young shrill laugh would anticipate the fun -- as
if the words were well known -- or the boys would
forestall the point by shouting it out before the
proper time. When the song was ended the
house was in a delirium of applause. The
canvass front to the gallery was beaten with
sticks, drum-like, and sent down showers of
white powder on the heads in the pit. Another
song followed, and the actor knowing on what
his success depended, lost no opportunity of in-
creasing his laurels. The most obscene thoughts,
the most disgusting scenes were coolly described,
making a poor child near me wipe away the
tears that rolled down her eyes with the enjoy-
ment of the poison. There were three or four of
these songs sung in the course of the evening,
each one being encored, and then changed.
One written about "Pine-apple rock," was the
grand treat of the night, and offered greater
scope to the rhyming powers of the author
than any of the others. In this, not a single
chance had been missed; ingenuity had been
exerted to its utmost lest an obscene thought
should be passed by, and it was absolutely
awful to behold the relish with which the
young ones jumped to the hideous meaning of
the verses.
There was one scene yet to come, that was
perfect in its wickedness. A ballet began be-
tween a man dressed up as a woman, and a
country clown. The most disgusting attitudes
were struck, the most immoral acts represented,
without one dissenting voice. If there had been
any feat of agility, any grimacing, or, in fact,
anything with which the laughter of the unedu-
cated classes is usually associated, the applause
might have been accounted for; but here were
two ruffians degrading themselves each time
they stirred a limb, and forcing into the brains
of the childish audience before them thoughts
that must embitter a lifetime, and descend from
father to child like some bodily infirmity.
When I had left, I spoke to a better class
costermonger on this saddening subject. "Well,
sir, it is frightful," he said, "but the boys will have their amusements. If their amusements is
bad they don't care; they only wants to laugh,
and this here kind of work does it. Give 'em
better singing and better dancing, and they'd go,
if the price was as cheap as this is. I've seen,
when a decent concert was given at a penny, as
many as four thousand costers present, behaving
themselves as quietly and decently as possible.
Their wives and children was with 'em, and no
audience was better conducted. It's all stuff
talking about them preferring this sort of thing.
Give 'em good things at the same price, and I
know they will like the good, better than the
bad."
My own experience with this neglected class
goes to prove, that if we would really lift them
out of the moral mire in which they are wallow-
ing, the first step must be to provide them with
wholesome amusements. The misfortune, how-
ever, is, that when we seek to elevate the cha-
racter of the people, we give them such mere
dry abstract truths and dogmas to digest, that
the uneducated mind turns with abhorrence from
them. We forget how we ourselves were origi-
nally won by our emotions to the consideration
of such subjects. We do not remember how our
own tastes have been formed, nor do we, in our
zeal, stay to reflect how the tastes of a people
generally are created; and, consequently, we
cannot perceive that a habit of enjoying any
matter whatsoever can only be induced in the
mind by linking with it some æsthetic affection.
The heart is the mainspring of the intellect, and
the feelings the real educers and educators of the
thoughts. As games with the young destroy the
fatigue of muscular exercise, so do the sympa-
thies stir the mind to action without any sense
of effort. It is because "serious" people gene-
rally object to enlist the emotions in the educa-
tion of the poor, and look upon the delight which
arises in the mind from the mere perception of
the beauty of sound, motion, form, and colour --
or from the apt association of harmonious or
incongruous ideas -- or from the sympathetic
operation of the affections; it is because, I say,
the zealous portion of society look upon these
matters as "vanity," that the amusements of the
working-classes are left to venal traders to pro-
Column 2
vide. Hence, in the low-priced entertainments
which necessarily appeal to the poorer, and,
therefore, to the least educated of the people,
the proprietors, instead of trying to develop in
them the purer sources of delight, seek only to
gratify their audience in the coarsest manner, by
appealing to their most brutal appetites. And
thus the emotions, which the great Architect of
the human mind gave us as the means of quick-
ening our imaginations and refining our senti-
ments, are made the instruments of crushing
every operation of the intellect and debasing our
natures. It is idle and unfeeling to believe that
the great majority of a people whose days are
passed in excessive toil, and whose homes are
mostly of an uninviting character, will forego all amusements, and consent to pass their evenings
by their no firesides, reading tracts or singing
hymns. It is folly to fancy that the mind, spent
with the irksomeness of compelled labour, and
depressed, perhaps, with the struggle to live by
that labour after all, will not, when the work is
over, seek out some place where at least it can
forget its troubles or fatigues in the temporary
pleasure begotten by some mental or physical
stimulant. It is because we exact too much of
the poor -- because we, as it were, strive to make
true knowledge and true beauty as forbidding as
possible to the uneducated and unrefined, that
they fly to their penny gaffs, their twopenny-
hops, their beer-shops, and their gambling-
grounds for pleasures which we deny them, and
which we, in our arrogance, believe it is possible
for them to do without.
The experiment so successfully tried at
Liverpool of furnishing music of an enlivening
and yet elevating character at the same price as
the concerts of the lowest grade, shows that the
people may be won to delight in beauty instead
of beastiality, and teaches us again that it is our fault to allow them to be as they are and not
their's to remain so. All men are compound
animals, with many inlets of pleasure to their
brains, and if one avenue be closed against
them, why it but forces them to seek delight
through another. So far from the perception of
beauty inducing habits of gross enjoyment as
"serious" people generally imagine, a mo-
ment's reflection will tell us that these very
habits are only the necessary consequences of
the non-development of the æsthetic faculty;
for the two assuredly cannot co-exist. To culti-
vate the sense of the beautiful is necessarily to
inculcate a detestation of the sensual. Moreover,
it is impossible for the mind to be accustomed to
the contemplation of what is admirable without
continually mounting to higher and higher
forms of it -- from the beauty of nature to that
of thought -- from thought to feeling, from
feeling to action, and lastly to the fountain of
all goodness -- the great munificent Creator of
the sea, the mountains, and the flowers -- the
stars, the sunshine, and the rainbow -- the fancy,
the reason, the love and the heroism of man and
womankind -- the instincts of the beasts -- the
glory of the angels -- and the mercy of Christ.
The costermongers, taken as a body, entertain the most imperfect idea of the sanctity of mar- riage. To their undeveloped minds it merely consists in the fact of a man and woman living together, and sharing the gains they may each earn by selling in the street. The father and mother of the girl look upon it as a convenient means of shifting the support of their child over to another's exertions; and so thoroughly do they believe this to be the end and aim of matrimony, that the expense of a church cere- mony is considered as a useless waste of money, and the new pair are received by their com- panions as cordially as if every form of law and religion had been complied with.
The notions of morality among these people
agree strangely, as I have said, with those of
many savage tribes -- indeed, it would be curious
if it were otherwise. They are a part of the
Nomades of England, neither knowing nor caring
for the enjoyments of home. The hearth, which
is so sacred a symbol to all civilized races as
being the spot where the virtues of each suc-
ceeding generation are taught and encouraged,
has no charms to them. The tap-room is the
father's chief abiding place; whilst to the
mother the house is only a better kind of tent.
She is away at the stall, or hawking her goods
from morning till night, while the children are
left to play away the day in the court or alley,
and pick their morals out of the gutter. So
long as the limbs gain strength the parent cares
for nothing else. As the young ones grow up,
their only notions of wrong are formed by what
the policeman will permit them to do. If we,
who have known from babyhood the kindly
influences of a home, require, before we are
thrust out into the world to get a living for our-
selves, that our perceptions of good and evil
should be quickened and brightened (the same
as our perceptions of truth and falsity) by the
experience and counsel of those who are wiser
and better than ourselves, -- if, indeed, it needed
a special creation and example to teach the best
and strongest of us the law of right, how bitterly
must the children of the street-folk require tui-
tion, training, and advice, when from their very
cradles (if, indeed, they ever knew such luxuries)
they are doomed to witness in their parents,
whom they naturally believe to be their supe-
riors, habits of life in which passion is the sole
rule of action, and where every appetite of our
animal nature is indulged in without the least
restraint.
I say thus much because I am anxious to
make others feel, as I do myself, that we are
the culpable parties in these matters. That
they poor things should do as they do is but
human nature -- but that we should allow them
to remain thus destitute of every blessing
vouchsafed to ourselves -- that we should wil-
lingly share what we enjoy with our brethren
at the Antipodes, and yet leave those who are
nearer and who, therefore, should be dearer to
Column 2
us, to want even the commonest moral neces-
saries is a paradox that gives to the zeal of our
Christianity a strong savour of the chicanery of
Cant.
The costermongers strongly resemble the
North American Indians in their conduct to
their wives. They can understand that it is the
duty of the woman to contribute to the happi-
ness of the man, but cannot feel that there is a
reciprocal duty from the man to the woman.
The wife is considered as an inexpensive servant,
and the disobedience of a wish is punished with
blows. She must work early and late, and to
the husband must be given the proceeds of her
labour. Often when the man is in one of his
drunken fits -- which sometimes last two or three
days continuously -- she must by her sole ex-
ertions find food for herself and him too. To
live in peace with him, there must be no mur-
muring, no tiring under work, no fancied cause
for jealousy -- for if there be, she is either beaten
into submission or cast adrift to begin life again --
as another's leavings.
The story of one coster girl's life may be taken
as a type of the many. When quite young she
is placed out to nurse with some neighbour,
the mother -- if a fond one -- visiting the child at
certain periods of the day, for the purpose of
feeding it, or sometimes, knowing the round she
has to make, having the infant brought to her
at certain places, to be "suckled." As soon as
it is old enough to go alone, the court is its
play-ground, the gutter its school-room, and
under the care of an elder sister the little one
passes the day, among children whose mothers
like her own are too busy out in the streets help-
ing to get the food, to be able to mind the family
at home. When the girl is strong enough, she
in her turn is made to assist the mother by
keeping guard over the younger children, or, if
there be none, she is lent out to carry about a
baby, and so made to add to the family income
by gaining her sixpence weekly. Her time is
from the earliest years fully occupied; indeed,
her parents cannot afford to keep her without
doing and getting something. Very few of the
children receive the least education. "The
parents," I am told, "never give their minds to
learning, for they say, `What's the use of it?
that won't yarn a gal a living."' Everything is
sacrificed -- as, indeed, under the circumstances
it must be -- in the struggle to live -- aye! and to
live merely. Mind, heart, soul, are all absorbed
in the belly. The rudest form of animal life,
physiologists tell us, is simply a locomotive
stomach. Verily, it would appear as if our
social state had a tendency to make the highest
animal sink into the lowest.
At about seven years of age the girls first go
into the streets to sell. A shallow-basket is
given to them, with about two shillings for stock-
money, and they hawk, according to the time of
year, either oranges, apples, or violets; some
begin their street education with the sale of
water-cresses. The money earned by this means
is strictly given to the parents. Sometimes --
The life of the coster-girls is as severe as that
of the boys. Between four and five in the
morning they have to leave home for the mar-
kets, and sell in the streets until about nine.
Those that have more kindly parents, return then
to breakfast, but many are obliged to earn the
morning's meal for themselves. After break-
fast, they generally remain in the streets until
about ten o'clock at night; many having nothing
during all that time but one meal of bread and
butter and coffee, to enable them to support the
fatigue of walking from street to street with
the heavy basket on their heads. In the course
of a day, some girls eat as much as a pound of
bread, and very seldom get any meat, unless it
be on a Sunday.
There are many poor families that, without
the aid of these girls, would be forced into the
workhouse. They are generally of an affection-
ate disposition, and some will perform acts of
marvellous heroism to keep together the little
home. It is not at all unusual for mere chil-
dren of fifteen to walk their eight or ten miles
a day, carrying a basket of nearly two hundred
weight on their heads. A journey to Woolwich
and back, or to the towns near London, is often
undertaken to earn the 1s. 6d. their parents are
anxiously waiting for at home.
Very few of these girls are married to the
men they afterwards live with. Their courtship
is usually a very short one; for, as one told me,
"the life is such a hard one, that a girl is ready
to get rid of a little of the labour at any price."
The coster-lads see the girls at market, and if
one of them be pretty, and a boy take a fancy
to her, he will make her bargains for her, and
carry her basket home. Sometimes a coster
working his rounds will feel a liking for a wench
selling her goods in the street, and will leave
his barrow to go and talk with her. A girl
seldom takes up with a lad before she is sixteen,
though some of them, when barely fifteen or
even fourteen, will pair off. They court for a
time, going to raffles and "gaffs" together, and
then the affair is arranged. The girl tells her
parents "she's going to keep company with
so-and-so," packs up what things she has, and
goes at once, without a word of remonstrance
from either father or mother. A furnished
room, at about 4s. a week, is taken, and the
young couple begin life The lad goes out as
usual with his barrow, and the girl goes out
with her basket, often working harder for her
lover than she had done for her parents. They
go to market together, and at about nine o'clock
her day's selling begins. Very often she will
take out with her in the morning what food she
requires during the day, and never return home
until eleven o'clock at night.
The men generally behave very cruelly to
Column 2
the girls they live with. They are as faithful
to them as if they were married, but they are
jealous in the extreme. To see a man talking
to their girl is sufficient to ensure the poor
thing a beating. They sometimes ill-treat
them horribly -- most unmercifully indeed --
nevertheless the girls say they cannot help
loving them still, and continue working for
them, as if they experienced only kindness at
their hands. Some of the men are gentler and
more considerate in their treatment of them,
but by far the larger portion are harsh and
merciless. Often when the Saturday night's
earnings of the two have been large, the man
will take the entire money, and as soon as the
Sunday's dinner is over, commence drinking
hard, and continue drunk for two or three days
together, until the funds are entirely exhausted.
The women never gamble; they say, "it gives
them no excitement." They prefer, if they
have a spare moment in the evening, sitting
near the fire making up and patching their
clothes. "Ah, sir," said a girl to me, "a neat
gown does a deal with a man; he always likes
a girl best when everybody else likes her too."
On a Sunday they clean their room for the
week and go for a treat, if they can persuade
their young man to take them out in the after-
noon, either to Chalk Farm or Battersea Fields
-- "where there's plenty of life."
After a girl has once grown accustomed to a
street-life, it is almost impossible to wean her
from it. The muscular irritability begotten by
continued wandering makes her unable to rest
for any time in one place, and she soon, if put
to any settled occupation, gets to crave for the
severe exercise she formerly enjoyed. The
least restraint will make her sigh after the
perfect liberty of the coster's "roving life." As
an instance of this I may relate a fact that
has occurred within the last six months. A
gentleman of high literary repute, struck with
the heroic strugglings of a coster Irish girl to
maintain her mother, took her to his house,
with a view of teaching her the duties of a
servant. At first the transition was a painful
one to the poor thing. Having travelled bare-
foot through the streets since a mere child, the
pressure of shoes was intolerable to her, and in
the evening or whenever a few minutes' rest
could be obtained, the boots were taken off, for
with them on she could enjoy no ease. The
perfect change of life, and the novelty of being
in a new place, reconciled her for some time to
the loss of her liberty. But no sooner did she
hear from her friends, that sprats were again
in the market, than, as if there were some
magical influence in the fish, she at once
requested to be freed from the confinement, and
permitted to return to her old calling.
Such is the history of the lower class of girls,
though this lower class, I regret to say, consti-
tutes by far the greater portion of the whole.
Still I would not for a moment have it inferred
that all are bad. There are many young girls
getting their living, or rather helping to get
I wished to have obtained a statement from
the girl whose portrait is here given, but she
was afraid to give the slightest information
about the habits of her companions, lest they
should recognize her by the engraving and per-
secute her for the revelations she might make.
After disappointing me some dozen times, I was
forced to seek out some other coster girl.
The one I fixed upon was a fine-grown young
woman of eighteen. She had a habit of curtsying
to every question that was put to her. Her plaid
shawl was tied over the breast, and her cotton-
velvet bonnet was crushed in with carrying her
basket. She seemed dreadfully puzzled where
to put her hands, at one time tucking them
under her shawl, warming them at the fire, or
measuring the length of her apron, and when
she answered a question she invariably addressed
the fireplace. Her voice was husky from shout-
ing apples.
"My mother has been in the streets selling all
her lifetime. Her uncle learnt her the markets
and she learnt me. When business grew bad
she said to me, `Now you shall take care on the
stall, and I'll go and work out charing.' The
way she learnt me the markets was to judge of
the weight of the baskets of apples, and then
said she, `Always bate 'em down, a'most a
half.' I always liked the street-life very well,
that was if I was selling. I have mostly kept a
stall myself, but I've known gals as walk about
with apples, as have told me that the weight of
the baskets is sich that the neck cricks, and
when the load is took off, its just as if you'd a
stiff neck, and the head feels as light as a
feather. The gals begins working very carly at
our work; the parents makes them go out when
a'most babies. There's a little gal, I'm sure
she an't more than half-past seven, that stands
selling water-cresses next my stall, and mother
was saying, `Only look there, how that little
one has to get her living afore she a'most knows
what a penn'orth means.'
"There's six on us in family, and father and
mother makes eight. Father used to do odd jobs
with the gas-pipes in the streets, and when
work was slack we had very hard times of it.
Mother always liked being with us at home,
and used to manage to keep us employed out of
mischief -- she'd give us an old gown to make
into pinafores for the children and such like!
She's been very good to us, has mother, and
so's father. She always liked to hear us read
to her whilst she was washing or such like! and
then we big ones had to learn the little ones.
But when father's work got slack, if she had no
Column 2
employment charing, she'd say, `Now I'll go
and buy a bushel of apples,' and then she'd
turn out and get a penny that way. I suppose
by sitting at the stall from nine in the morning
till the shops shuts up -- say ten o'clock at night,
I can earn about 1s. 6d. a day. It's all according
to the apples -- whether they're good or not --
what we makes. If I'm unlucky, mother will
say, `Well, I'll go out to-morrow and see what
I can do;' and if I've done well, she'll say `Come
you're a good hand at it; you've done famous.'
Yes, mother's very fair that way. Ah! there's
many a gal I knows whose back has to suffer
if she don't sell her stock well; but, thank God!
I never get more than a blowing up. My
parents is very fair to me.
"I dare say there ain't ten out of a hundred
gals what's living with men, what's been married
Church of England fashion. I know plenty
myself, but I don't, indeed, think it right. It
seems to me that the gals is fools to be 'ticed
away, but, in coorse, they needn't go without
they likes. This is why I don't think it's right.
Perhaps a man will have a few words with his
gal, and he'll say, `Oh! I ain't obligated to keep
her!' and he'll turn her out: and then where's
that poor gal to go? Now, there's a gal I knows
as came to me no later than this here week, and
she had a dreadful swole face and a awful black
eye; and I says, `Who's done that?' and she says,
says she, `Why, Jack' -- just in that way; and then
she says, says she, `I'm going to take a warrant
out to-morrow.' Well, he gets the warrant that
same night, but she never appears again him, for
fear of getting more beating. That don't seem to
me to be like married people ought to be. Be-
sides, if parties is married, they ought to bend to
each other; and they won't, for sartain, if they're
only living together. A man as is married is
obligated to keep his wife if they quarrels or not;
and he says to himself, says he, `Well, I may
as well live happy, like.' But if he can turn a
poor gal off, as soon as he tires of her, he begins
to have noises with her, and then gets quit of
her altogether. Again, the men takes the money
of the gals, and in coorse ought to treat 'em well
-- which they don't. This is another reason: when
the gal is in the family way, the lads mostly
sends them to the workhouse to lay in, and only
goes sometimes to take them a bit of tea and
shuggar; but, in coorse, married men wouldn't
behave in such likes to their poor wives. After
a quarrel, too, a lad goes and takes up with
another young gal, and that isn't pleasant for
the first one. The first step to ruin is them
places of `penny gaffs,' for they hears things
there as oughtn't to be said to young gals.
Besides, the lads is very insinivating, and after
leaving them places will give a gal a drop of
beer, and make her half tipsy, and then they
makes their arrangements. I've often heerd
the boys boasting of having ruined gals, for all
the world as if they was the first noblemen in
the land.
"It would be a good thing if these sort of
goings on could be stopped. It's half the pa-
"Only last night father was talking about
religion. We often talks about religion. Father
has told me that God made the world, and I've
heerd him talk about the first man and woman
as was made and lived -- it must be more than a
hundred years ago -- but I don't like to speak
on what I don't know. Father, too, has told
me about our Saviour what was nailed on a cross
to suffer for such poor people as we is. Father
has told us, too, about his giving a great many
poor people a penny loaf and a bit of fish each,
which proves him to have been a very kind gen-
tleman. The Ten Commandments was made by
him, I've heerd say, and he performed them too
among other miracles. Yes! this is part of
what our Saviour tells us. We are to forgive
everybody, and do nobody no injury. I don't
think I could forgive an enemy if she injured
me very much; I'm sure I don't know why
I couldn't, unless it is that I'm poor, and never
learnt to do it. If a gal stole my shawl and
didn't return it back or give me the value on it,
I couldn't forgive her; but if she told me she
lost it off her back, I shouldn't be so hard on
her. We poor gals ain't very religious, but
we are better than the men. We all of us
thanks God for everything -- even for a fine day;
as for sprats, we always says they're God's bles-
sing for the poor, and thinks it hard of the
Lord Mayor not to let 'em come in afore the
ninth of November, just because he wants to
dine off them -- which he always do. Yes, we
knows for certain that they eats plenty of
sprats at the Lord Mayor's `blanket.' They
say in the Bible that the world was made in six
days: the beasts, the birds, the fish, and all --
and sprats was among them in coorse. There
was only one house at that time as was made,
and that was the Ark for Adam and Eve and
their family. It seems very wonderful indeed
how all this world was done so quick. I should
have thought that England alone would have
took double the time; shouldn't you, sir? But
then it says in the Bible, God Almighty's a just
and true God, and in coorse time would be nothing
to him. When a good person is dying, we says,
`The Lord has called upon him, and he must
go,' but I can't think what it means, unless
it is that an angel comes -- like when we're
a-dreaming -- and tells the party he's wanted in
heaven. I know where heaven is; it's above
the clouds, and they're placed there to prevent
us seeing into it. That's where all the good people
go, but I'm afeerd," -- she continued solemnly --
Column 2
"there's very few costers among the angels --
'specially those as deceives poor gals.
"No, I don't think this world could well go
on for ever. There's a great deal of ground in
it, certainly, and it seems very strong at present;
but they say there's to be a flood on the earth,
and earthquakes, and that will destroy it. The
earthquake ought to have took place some time
ago, as people tells me, but I never heerd any
more about it. If we cheats in the streets, I
know we shan't go to Heaven; but it's very
hard upon us, for if we didn't cheat we couldn't
live, profits is so bad. It's the same with the
shops, and I suppose the young men there won't
go to Heaven neither; but if people won't give
the money, both costers and tradesmen must
cheat, and that's very hard. Why, look at
apples! customers want them for less than
they cost us, and so we are forced to shove in
bad ones as well as good ones; and if we're to
suffer for that, it does seem to me dreadful
cruel."
Curious and extravagant as this statement
may perhaps appear to the uninitiated, never-
theless it is here given as it was spoken; and it
was spoken with an earnestness that proved the
poor girl looked upon it as a subject, the solem-
nity of which forced her to be truthful.
Concerning the connection of these two classes I had the following account from a costermonger: "I've known the coster trade for twelve years, and never knew thieves go out a costering as a cloak; they may have done so, but I very much doubt it. Thieves go for an idle life, and costermongering don't suit them. Our chaps don't care a d -- n who they associate with, -- if they're thieves they meet 'em all the same, or anything that way. But costers buy what they call `a gift,' -- may-be it's a watch or coat wot's been stolen -- from any that has it to sell. A man will say: `If you've a few shillings, you may make a good thing of it. Why this iden- tical watch is only twenty shillings, and it's worth fifty;' so if the coster has money, he buys. Thieves will get 3d. where a mechanic or a cos- ter will earn ½d., and the most ignorant of our people has a queer sort of respect for thieves, because of the money they make. Poverty's as much despised among costers as among other people. People that's badly off among us are called `cursed.' In bad weather it's common for costers to `curse themselves,' as they call having no trade. `Well, I'm cursed,' they say when they can make no money. It's a common thing among them to shout after any one they don't like, that's reduced, `Well, ain't you cursed?"' The costers, I am credibly informed, gamble a great deal with the wealthier class of thieves, and win of them the greater part of the money they get.
Concerning this head, I give the statement of a man whose information I found fully con-
The costermongers usually reside in the courts and alleys in the neighbourhood of the different street-markets. They themselves designate the locality where, so to speak, a colony of their people has been established, a "coster district," and the entire metropolis is thus parcelled out, almost as systematically as if for the purposes of registration. These costermonger districts are as follows, and are here placed in the order of the numerical importance of the residents:
The New Cut (Lambeth).
Whitecross-street.
Leather-lane.
The Brill, Somers' Town.
Whitechapel.
Camberwell.
Walworth.
Peckham.
Bermondsey.
The Broadway, West-
minster.
Shoreditch.
Paddington and Edge-
ware Road.
Tottenham-court Road.
Drury-lane.
Old-street Road.
Clare Market.
Ratcliffe Highway.
Lisson-grove.
Petticoat and Rosemary-
lane.
Marylebone-lane.
Oxford-street.
Rotherhithe.
Deptford.
Dockhead.
Greenwich.
Commercial-road (East).
Poplar.
Limehouse.
Bethnal-green.
Hackney-road.
Kingsland.
Camden Town.
The homes of the costermongers in these
places, may be divided into three classes; firstly,
those who, by having a regular trade or by pru-
dent economy, are enabled to live in compara-
tive ease and plenty; secondly, those who, from
having a large family or by imprudent expendi-
ture, are, as it were, struggling with the world;
and thirdly, those who for want of stock-money,
or ill success in trade are nearly destitute.
The first home I visited was that of an old
woman, who with the assistance of her son and
girls, contrived to live in a most praiseworthy
and comfortable manner. She and all her
family were teetotallers, and may be taken as a
fair type of the thriving costermonger.
As I ascended a dark flight of stairs, a savory
smell of stew grew stronger at each step I
mounted. The woman lived in a large airy
room on the first floor ("the drawing-room")
Column 2
as she told me laughing at her own joke), well
lighted by a clean window, and I found her
laying out the savory smelling dinner looking
most temptingly clean. The floor was as white
as if it had been newly planed, the coke fire
was bright and warm, making the lid of the
tin saucepan on it rattle up and down as the
steam rushed out. The wall over the fire-place
was patched up to the ceiling with little square
pictures of saints, and on the mantel-piece,
between a row of bright tumblers and wine
glasses filled with odds and ends, stood glazed
crockeryware images of Prince Albert and M.
Jullien. Against the walls, which were papered
with "hangings" of four different patterns and
colours, were hung several warm shawls, and in
the band-box, which stood on the stained chest
of drawers, you could tell that the Sunday
bonnet was stowed safely away from the dust.
A turn-up bedstead thrown back, and covered
with a many-coloured patch-work quilt, stood
opposite to a long dresser with its mugs and
cups dangling from the hooks, and the clean
blue plates and dishes ranged in order at the
back. There were a few bushel baskets piled
up in one corner, "but the apples smelt so," she
said, "they left them in a stable at night."
By the fire sat the woman's daughter, a
pretty meek-faced gray-eyed girl of sixteen,
who "was home nursing" for a cold. "Steve"
(her boy) I was informed, was out working.
With his help, the woman assured me, she could
live very comfortably -- "God be praised!" and
when he got the barrow he was promised, she
gave me to understand, that their riches were to
increase past reckoning. Her girl too was to be
off at work as soon as sprats came in. "Its on
Lord Mayor's-day they comes in," said a neigh-
bour who had rushed up to see the strange
gentleman, "they says he has 'em on his table,
but I never seed 'em. They never gives us the
pieces, no not even the heads," and every one
laughed to their utmost. The good old dame
was in high spirits, her dark eyes sparkling as
she spoke about her "Steve." The daughter in
a little time lost her bashfulness, and informed
me "that one of the Polish refugees was
a-courting Mrs. M -- , who had given him a
pair of black eyes."
On taking my leave I was told by the mother
that their silver gilt Dutch clock -- with its glass
face and blackleaded weights -- "was the best
one in London, and might be relied on with the
greatest safety."
As a specimen of the dwellings of the strug-
gling costers, the following may be cited:
The man, a tall, thick-built, almost good-
looking fellow, with a large fur cap on his head,
lived with his family in a front kitchen, and
as there were, with his mother-in-law, five
persons, and only one bed, I was somewhat
puzzled to know where they could all sleep.
The barrow standing on the railings over the
window, half shut out the light, and when any
one passed there was a momentary shadow
thrown over the room, and a loud rattling of the
Whilst we were talking, the man's little
girl came home. For a poor man's child she
was dressed to perfection; her pinafore was
clean, her face shone with soap, and her tidy
cotton print gown had clearly been newly put on
that morning. She brought news that "Janey"
was coming home from auntey's, and instantly
a pink cotton dress was placed by the mother-
in-law before the fire to air. (It appeared that
Janey was out at service, and came home once
a week to see her parents and take back a clean
frock.) Although these people were living,
so to speak, in a cellar, still every endeavour
had been made to give the home a look of
comfort. The window, with its paper-patched
panes, had a clean calico blind. The side-table
was dressed up with yellow jugs and cups and
saucers, and the band-boxes had been stowed
away on the flat top of the bedstead. All the
chairs, which were old fashioned mahogany ones,
had sound backs and bottoms.
Of the third class, or the very poor, I chose
the following "type" out of the many others
that presented themselves. The family here
lived in a small slanting-roofed house, partly
stripped of its tiles. More than one half of the
small leaden squares of the first-floor window
were covered with brown paper, puffing out and
crackling in the wind, while through the greater
part of the others were thrust out ball-shaped
bundles of rags, to keep out the breeze. The
panes that did remain were of all shapes and
sizes, and at a distance had the appearance of
yellow glass, they were so stained with dirt. I
opened a door with a number chalked on it, and
groped my way up a broken tottering staircase.
It took me some time after I had entered the
apartment before I could get accustomed to the
smoke, that came pouring into the room from
the chimney. The place was filled with it,
curling in the light, and making every thing so
indistinct that I could with difficulty see the
white mugs ranged in the corner-cupboard, not
three yards from me. When the wind was in
the north, or when it rained, it was always that
way, I was told, "but otherwise," said an old
Column 2
dame about sixty, with long grisly hair spread-
ing over her black shawl, "it is pretty good for
that."
On a mattrass, on the floor, lay a pale-faced
girl -- "eighteen years old last twelfth-cake day"
-- her drawn-up form showing in the patch-work
counterpane that covered her. She had just
been confined, and the child had died! A little
straw, stuffed into an old tick, was all she
had to lie upon, and even that had been given
up to her by the mother until she was well
enough to work again. To shield her from the
light of the window, a cloak had been fastened
up slantingly across the panes; and on a string
that ran along the wall was tied, amongst the
bonnets, a clean nightcap -- "against the doctor
came," as the mother, curtsying, informed me.
By the side of the bed, almost hidden in the dark
shade, was a pile of sieve baskets, crowned by
the flat shallow that the mother "worked" with.
The room was about nine feet square, and
furnished a home for three women. The ceiling
slanted like that of a garret, and was the colour
of old leather, excepting a few rough white
patches, where the tenants had rudely mended
it. The white light was easily seen through the
laths, and in one corner a large patch of the
paper looped down from the wall. One night
the family had been startled from their sleep by
a large mass of mortar -- just where the roof
bulged in -- falling into the room. "We never
want rain water," the woman told me, "for we
can catch plenty just over the chimney-place."
They had made a carpet out of three or four
old mats. They were "obligated to it, for fear
of dropping anything through the boards into
the donkey stables in the parlour underneath.
But we only pay ninepence a week rent," said
the old woman, "and mustn't grumble."
The only ornament in the place was on the
mantel-piece -- an old earthenware sugar-basin,
well silvered over, that had been given by the
eldest girl when she died, as a remembrance to
her mother. Two cracked tea-cups, on their
inverted saucers, stood on each side, and dressed
up the fire-side into something like tidiness.
The chair I sat on was by far the best out of
the three in the room, and that had no back,
and only half its quantity of straw.
The parish, the old woman told me, allowed
her 1s. a week and two loaves. But the doctor
ordered her girl to take sago and milk, and she
was many a time sorely puzzled to get it. The
neighbours helped her a good deal, and often
sent her part of their unsold greens; -- even if
it was only the outer leaves of the cabbages, she
was thankful for them. Her other girl -- a big-
boned wench, with a red shawl crossed over her
bosom, and her black hair parted on one side --
did all she could, and so they lived on. "As
long as they kept out of the `big house' (the
workhouse) she would not complain."
I never yet beheld so much destitution
borne with so much content. Verily the acted
philosophy of the poor is a thing to make those
who write and preach about it hide their heads.
to a consideration of their dress.
The costermonger's ordinary costume partakes
of the durability of the warehouseman's, with the
quaintness of that of the stable-boy. A well-
to-do "coster," when dressed for the day's
work, usually wears a small cloth cap, a little
on one side. A close-fitting worsted tie-up
skull-cap, is very fashionable, just now, among
the class, and ringlets at the temples are looked
up to as the height of elegance. Hats they
never wear -- excepting on Sunday -- on account
of their baskets being frequently carried on
their heads. Coats are seldom indulged in;
their waistcoats, which are of a broad-ribbed
corduroy, with fustian back and sleeves, being
made as long as a groom's, and buttoned
up nearly to the throat. If the corduroy
be of a light sandy colour, then plain brass, or
sporting buttons, with raised fox's or stag's heads
upon them -- or else black bone-buttons, with a
flower-pattern -- ornament the front; but if the
cord be of a dark rat-skin hue, then mother-of-
pearl buttons are preferred. Two large pockets
-- sometimes four -- with huge flaps or lappels,
like those in a shooting-coat, are commonly
worn. If the costermonger be driving a good
trade and have his set of regular customers, he
will sport a blue cloth jacket, similar in cut to
the cord ones above described; but this is
looked upon as an extravagance of the highest
order, for the slime and scales of the fish stick to
the sleeves and shoulders of the garment, so as
to spoil the appearance of it in a short time. The
fashionable stuff for trousers, at the present, is a
dark-coloured "cable cord," and they are made
to fit tightly at the knee and swell gradually
until they reach the boot, which they nearly
cover. Velveteen is now seldom worn, and knee-
breeches are quite out of date. Those who deal
wholly in fish wear a blue serge apron, either
hanging down or tucked up round their waist.
The costermonger, however, prides himself most
of all upon his neckerchief and boots. Men, wo-
men, boys and girls, all have a passion for these
articles. The man who does not wear his silk
neckerchief -- his "King's-man" as it is called
-- is known to be in desperate circumstances;
the inference being that it has gone to supply
the morning's stock-money. A yellow flower
on a green ground, or a red and blue pattern, is
at present greatly in vogue. The women wear
their kerchiefs tucked-in under their gowns,
and the men have theirs wrapped loosely round
the neck, with the ends hanging over their
waistcoats. Even if a costermonger has two or
three silk handkerchiefs by him already, he sel-
dom hesitates to buy another, when tempted
with a bright showy pattern hanging from a
Field-lane door-post.
The costermonger's love of a good strong boot
is a singular prejudice that runs throughout the
whole class. From the father to the youngest
child, all will be found well shod. So strong is
Column 2
their predilection in this respect, that a coster-
monger may be immediately known by a glance
at his feet. He will part with everything rather
than his boots, and to wear a pair of second-
hand ones, or "translators" (as they are called), is
felt as a bitter degradation by them all. Among
the men, this pride has risen to such a pitch,
that many will have their upper-leathers tastily
ornamented, and it is not uncommon to see the
younger men of this class with a heart or a
thistle, surrounded by a wreath of roses, worked
below the instep, on their boots. The general
costume of the women or girls is a black
velveteen or straw bonnet, with a few ribbons or
flowers, and almost always a net cap fitting
closely to the cheek. The silk "King's-man"
covering their shoulders, is sometimes tucked
into the neck of the printed cotton-gown, and
sometimes the ends are brought down outside
to the apron-strings. Silk dresses are never
worn by them -- they rather despise such arti-
cles. The petticoats are worn short, ending at
the ankles, just high enough to show the
whole of the much-admired boots. Coloured,
or "illustrated shirts," as they are called, are
especially objected to by the men.
On the Sunday no costermonger will, if he
can possibly avoid it, wheel a barrow. If a
shilling be an especial object to him, he may,
perhaps, take his shallow and head-basket as
far as Chalk-farm, or some neighbouring resort;
but even then he objects strongly to the Sun-
day-trading. They leave this to the Jews and
Irish, who are always willing to earn a penny --
as they say.
The prosperous coster will have his holiday
on the Sunday, and, if possible, his Sunday suit
as well -- which usually consists of a rough
beaver hat, brown Petersham, with velvet
facings of the same colour, and cloth trousers,
with stripes down the side. The women, gene-
rally, manage to keep by them a cotton gown
of a bright showy pattern, and a new shawl.
As one of the craft said to me -- "Costers likes
to see their gals and wives look lady-like when
they takes them out." Such of the costers as
are not in a flourishing way of business, sel-
dom make any alteration in their dress on the
Sunday.
There are but five tailors in London who
make the garb proper to costermongers; one of
these is considered somewhat "slop," or as a
coster called him, a "springer-up."
This springer-up is blamed by some of the
costermongers, who condemn him for employ-
ing women at reduced wages. A whole court of
costermongers, I was assured, would withdraw
their custom from a tradesman, if one of their
body, who had influence among them, showed
that the tradesman was unjust to his workpeople.
The tailor in question issues bills after the fol-
lowing fashion. I give one verbatim, merely
withholding the address for obvious reasons:
"once try you'll come again.
Slap-up Tog and out-and-out Kicksies Builder.
Mr. -- nabs the chance of putting his cus-
Ready Gilt -- Tick being no go.
Upper Benjamins, built on a downey plan, a
monarch to half a finnuff. Slap up Velveteen
Togs, lined with the same, 1 pound 1 quarter
and a peg. Moleskin ditto, any colour, lined
with the same, 1 couter. A pair of Kerseymere
Kicksies, any colour, built very slap up, with
the artful dodge, a canary. Pair of stout Cord
ditto, built in the `Melton Mowbray' style, half
a sov. Pair of very good broad Cord ditto, made
very saucy, 9 bob and a kick. Pair of long
sleeve Moleskin, all colours, built hanky-spanky,
with a double fakement down the side and artful
buttons at bottom, half a monarch. Pair of stout
ditto, built very serious, 9 times. Pair of out-
and-out fancy sleeve Kicksies, cut to drop down
on the trotters, 2 bulls. Waist Togs, cut long,
with moleskin back and sleeves, 10 peg. Blue
Cloth ditto, cut slap, with pearl buttons, 14 peg.
Mud Pipes, Knee Caps, and Trotter Cases, built
very low.
"A decent allowance made to Seedy Swells,
Tea Kettle Purgers, Head Robbers, and Flun-
keys out of Collar.
"N.B. Gentlemen finding their own Broady
can be accommodated."
mongers than it is to describe that of many
other of the labouring classes, for their diet, so
to speak, is an "out-door diet." They break-
fast at a coffee-stall, and (if all their means have
been expended in purchasing their stock, and
none of it be yet sold) they expend on the
meal only 1d., reserved for the purpose. For
this sum they can procure a small cup of cof-
fee, and two "thin" (that is to say two thin
slices of bread and butter). For dinner --
which on a week-day is hardly ever eaten
at the costermonger's abode -- they buy "block
ornaments," as they call the small, dark-
coloured pieces of meat exposed on the cheap
butchers' blocks or counters. These they cook
in a tap-room; half a pound costing 2d. If
time be an object, the coster buys a hot pie
or two; preferring fruit-pies when in season,
and next to them meat-pies. "We never eat
eel-pies," said one man to me, "because we
know they're often made of large dead eels.
Column 2
We, of all people, are not to be had that way.
But the haristocrats eats 'em and never knows
the difference." I did not hear that these men
had any repugnance to meat-pies; but the use of
the dead eel happens to come within the im-
mediate knowledge of the costermongers, who
are, indeed, its purveyors. Saveloys, with a
pint of beer, or a glass of "short" (neat gin)
is with them another common week-day dinner.
The costers make all possible purchases of
street-dealers, and pride themselves in thus
"sticking to their own." On Sunday, the
costermonger, when not "cracked up," enjoys
a good dinner at his own abode. This is
always a joint -- most frequently a shoulder
or half-shoulder of mutton -- and invariably
with "lots of good taturs baked along with
it." In the quality of their potatoes these
people are generally particular.
The costermonger's usual beverage is beer,
and many of them drink hard, having no other
way of spending their leisure but in drinking
and gambling. It is not unusual in "a good
time," for a costermonger to spend 12s. out of
every 20s. in beer and pleasure.
I ought to add, that the "single fellows,"
instead of living on "block ornaments" and the
like, live, when doing well, on the best fare, at
the "spiciest" cook-shops on their rounds, or in
the neighbourhood of their residence.
There are some families of costermongers who
have persevered in carrying out the principles
of teetotalism. One man thought there might
be 200 individuals, including men, women, and
children, who practised total abstinence from
intoxicating drinks. These parties are nearly all
somewhat better off than their drinking com-
panions. The number of teetotallers amongst
the costers, however, was more numerous three
or four years back.
I shall now proceed to treat of the London
costermongers' mode of doing business.
In the first place all the goods they sell are
cried or "hawked," and the cries of the coster-
mongers in the present day are as varied as the
articles they sell. The principal ones, uttered
in a sort of cadence, are now, "Ni-ew mackerel,
6 a shilling." ("I've got a good jacketing many
a Sunday morning," said one dealer, "for waking
people up with crying mackerel, but I've said,
`I must live while you sleep."') "Buy a pair
of live soles, 3 pair for 6d." -- or, with a barrow,
"Soles, 1d. a pair, 1d. a pair;" "Plaice alive,
alive, cheap;" "Buy a pound crab, cheap;"
"Pine-apples, ½d. a slice;" "Mussels a penny
a quart;" "Oysters, a penny a lot;" "Salmon
alive, 6d. a pound;" "Cod alive, 2d. a pound;"
"Real Yarmouth bloaters, 2 a penny;" "New
herrings alive, 16 a groat" (this is the loudest
cry of any); "Penny a bunch turnips" (the
same with greens, cabbages, &c.); "All new nuts,
1d. half-pint;" "Oranges, 2 a penny;" "All
large and alive-O, new sprats, O, 1d. a plate;"
The continual calling in the streets is very
distressing to the voice. One man told me that
it had broken his, and that very often while out
he lost his voice altogether. "They seem to
have no breath," the men say, "after calling for
a little while." The repeated shouting brings
on a hoarseness, which is one of the peculiar
characteristics of hawkers in general. The
costers mostly go out with a boy to cry their
goods for them. If they have two or three halloo-
ing together, it makes more noise than one, and
the boys can shout better and louder than the
men. The more noise they can make in a place
the better they find their trade. Street-selling
has been so bad lately that many have been
obliged to have a drum for their bloaters, "to
drum the fish off," as they call it.
In the second place, the costermongers, as I
said before, have mostly their little bit of a
"round;" that is, they go only to certain places;
and if they don't sell their goods they "work
back" the same way again. If they visit a
respectable quarter, they confine themselves to
the mews near the gentlemen's houses. They
generally prefer the poorer neighbourhoods.
They go down or through almost all the courts
and alleys -- and avoid the better kind of streets,
unless with lobsters, rabbits, or onions. If they
have anything inferior, they visit the low Irish
districts -- for the Irish people, they say, want
only quantity, and care nothing about quality --
that they don't study. But if they have any-
thing they wish to make a price of, they seek
out the mews, and try to get it off among the
gentlemen's coachmen, for they will have what
is good; or else they go among the residences
of mechanics, -- for their wives, they say, like
good-living as well as the coachmen. Some
costers, on the other hand, go chance rounds.
Concerning the busiest days of the week for
the coster's trade, they say Wednesdays and
Fridays are the best, because they are regular
fish days. These two days are considered to be
those on which the poorer classes generally run
short of money. Wednesday night is called "draw
night" among some mechanics and labourers
-- that is, they then get a portion of their
wages in advance, and on Friday they run short
as well as on the Wednesday, and have to make
shift for their dinners. With the few halfpence
they have left, they are glad to pick up anything
cheap, and the street-fishmonger never refuses an
offer. Besides, he can supply them with a cheaper
dinner than any other person. In the season the
poor generally dine upon herrings. The poorer
classes live mostly on fish, and the "dropped"
and "rough" fish is bought chiefly for the poor.
The fish-huckster has no respect for persons,
however; one assured me that if Prince Halbert
was to stop him in the street to buy a pair of soles
of him, he'd as soon sell him a "rough pair as any
Column 2
other man -- indeed, I'd take in my own father,"
he added, "if he wanted to deal with me."
Saturday is the worst day of all for fish, for then
the poor people have scarcely anything at all to
spend; Saturday night, however, the street-
seller takes more money than at any other time
in the week.
rounds" and they speak of their country ex-
peditions as if they were summer excursions
of mere pleasure. They are generally variations
from a life growing monotonous. It was com-
puted for me that at present three out of every
twenty costermongers "take a turn in the coun-
try" at least once a year. Before the prevalence
of railways twice as many of these men carried
their speculations in fish, fruit, or vegetables to
a country mart. Some did so well that they
never returned to London. Two for instance,
after a country round, settled at Salisbury; they
are now regular shopkeepers, "and very respect-
able, too," was said to me, "for I believe they
are both pretty tidy off for money; and are
growing rich." The railway communication
supplies the local-dealer with fish, vegetables,
or any perishable article, with such rapidity
and cheapness that the London itinerant's
occupation in the towns and villages about the
metropolis is now half gone.
In the following statement by a costermonger,
the mode of life on a country round, is detailed
with something of an assumption of metropolitan
superiority.
"It was fine times, sir, ten year back, aye,
and five year back, in the country, and it ain't
so bad now, if a man's known. It depends on
that now far more than it did, and on a man's
knowing how to work a village. Why, I can
tell you if it wasn't for such as me, there's many
a man working on a farm would never taste
such a nice thing as a fresh herring -- never, sir.
It's a feast at a poor country labourer's place,
when he springs six-penn'orth of fresh herrings,
some for supper, and some in salt for next day.
I've taken a shillings'-worth to a farmer's door
of a darkish night in a cold autumn, and they'd
a warm and good dish for supper, and looked on
me as a sort of friend. We carry them relishes
from London; and they like London relishes, for
we know how to set them off. I've fresh herringed
a whole village near Guildford, first thing in the
morning. I've drummed round Guildford too,
and done well. I've waked up Kingston with
herrings. I've been as welcome as anything to
the soldiers in the barracks at Brentwood, and
Romford, and Maidstone with my fresh herrings;
for they're good customers. In two days I've
made 2l. out of 10s. worth of fresh herrings,
bought at Billingsgate. I always lodge at a
public-house in the country; so do all of us,
for the publicans are customers. We are well
received at the public-houses; some of us go
there for the handiness of the `lush.' I've done
The most frequented round is from Lambeth
to Wandsworth, Kingston, Richmond, Guildford,
and Farnham. The costermonger is then "sold
out," as he calls it, -- he has disposed of his
stock, and returns by the way which is most
lightly tolled, no matter if the saving of 1d. or
2d. entail some miles extra travelling. "It cost
me 15d. for tolls from Guildford for an empty
cart and donkey," said a costermonger just up
from the country.
Another round is to Croydon, Reigate, and
the neighbourhoods; another to Edgeware, Kil-
burn, Watford, and Barnet; another to Maid-
stone; but the costermonger, if he starts trading
at a distance, as he now does frequently, has
his barrow and goods sent down by railway to
such towns as Maidstone so he saves the delay
and cost of a donkey-cart. A "mate" sees to
the transmission of the goods from London, the
owner walking to Maidstone to be in readiness
to "work" them immediately he receives them.
"The railway's an ease and a saving," I was
told; "I've got a stock sent for 2s., and a don-
key's keep would cost that for the time it would
be in travelling. There's 5,000 of us, I think,
might get a living in the country, if we stuck to
it entirely."
If the country enterprise be a failure, the men
sometimes abandon it in "a pet," sell their goods
at any loss, and walk home, generally getting
drunk as the first step to their return. Some
have been known to pawn their barrow on the
road for drink. This they call "doing queer."
In summer the costermongers carry plums,
peas, new potatoes, cucumbers, and quantities
of pickling vegetables, especially green walnuts,
to the country. In winter their commodities are
onions, fresh and red herrings, and sprats. "I
don't know how it is," said one man to me,
"but we sell ing-uns and all sorts of fruits and
vegetables, cheaper than they can buy them
where they're grown; and green walnuts, too,
when you'd think they had only to be knocked
off a tree."
Another costermonger told me that, in the
country, he and his mates attended every dance
or other amusement, "if it wasn't too respect-
able." Another said: "If I'm idle in the
country on a Sunday, I never go to church. I
never was in a church; I don't know why, for
my silk handkerchief's worth more than one of
their smock-frocks, and is quite as respectable."
Some costermongers confine their exertions to
the fairs and races, and many of them are con-
nected with the gipsies, who are said to be the
usual receivers of the stolen handkerchiefs at
such places.
The earnings of the costermonger -- the next Column 2subject of inquiry that, in due order, presents itself -- vary as much as in more fashionable callings, for he is greatly dependent on the season, though he may be little affected by Lon- don being full or empty.
Concurrent testimony supplied me with the
following estimate of their earnings. I cite the
average earnings (apart from any charges or
drawbacks), of the most staple commodities:
In January and February the costers generally
sell fish. In these months the wealthier of the
street fishmongers, or those who can always com-
mand "money to go to market," enjoy a kind of
monopoly. The wintry season renders the supply
of fish dearer and less regular, so that the poorer
dealers cannot buy "at first hand," and some-
times cannot be supplied at all; while the others
monopolise the fish, more or less, and will not
sell it to any of the other street-dealers until a
profit has been realised out of their own regular
customers, and the demand partially satisfied.
"Why, I've known one man sell 10l. worth of
fish -- most of it mackarel -- at his stall in
Whitecross-street," said a costermonger to me,
"and all in one snowy day, in last January.
It was very stormy at that time, and fish came
in unregular, and he got a haul. I've known
him sell 2l. worth in an hour, and once 2l. 10s. worth, for I then helped at his stall. If people
has dinner parties they must have fish, and
gentlemen's servants came to buy. The average earnings however of those that "go rounds"
in these months are computed not to exceed 8s. a week; Monday and Saturday being days of
little trade in fish.
"March is dreadful," said an itinerant fish
seller to me; "we don't average, I'm satisfied,
more nor 4s. a week. I've had my barrow idle
for a week sometimes -- at home every day,
though it had to be paid for, all the same. At
the latter end of March, if it's fine, it's 1s. a
week better, because there's flower roots in --
`all a-growing,' you know, sir. And that lasts
until April, and we then make above 6s. a week.
I've heard people say when I've cried `all a-
growing' on a fine-ish day, `Aye, now summer's
a-coming.' I wish you may get it, says I to
myself; for I've studied the seasons."
In May the costermonger's profit is greater.
He vends fresh fish -- of which there is a greater
supply and a greater demand, and the fine and
often not very hot weather insures its freshness --
and he sells dried herrings and "roots" (as they
are called) such as wall-flowers and stocks.
The average earnings then are from 10s. to
12s. a week.
In June, new potatoes, peas, and beans tempt
the costermongers' customers, and then his earn-
ings rise to 1l. a week. In addition to this 1l., if the season allow, a costermonger at the end of
the week, I was told by an experienced hand,
"will earn an extra 10s. if he has anything of
a round," "Why, I've cleared thirty shillings
myself," he added, "on a Saturday night."
In July cherries are the principal article of
traffic, and then the profit varies from 4s. to 8s.
In August, the chief trading is in Orleans
plums, green-gages, apples and pears, and in
this month the earnings are from 5s. to 6s. a
day. [I may here remark that the costermon-
gers care little to deal in either vegetables or
fish, "when the fruit's in," but they usually
carry a certain supply of vegetables all the year
round, for those customers who require them.]
In September apples are vended, and about
2s. 6d. a day made.
In October "the weather gets cold," I was
told, "and the apples gets fewer, and the day's
work's over at four; we then deals most in fish,
such as soles; there's a good bit done in oysters,
and we may make 1s. or 1s. 6d. a day, but it's
uncertain."
In November fish and vegetables are the chief
commodities, and then from 1s. to 1s. 6d. a day
is made; but in the latter part of the month an
extra 6d. or 1s. a day may be cleared, as sprats
come in and sell well when newly introduced.
In December the trade is still principally in
fish, and 12d. or 18d. a day is the costermonger's
earnings. Towards the close of the month he
makes rather more, as he deals in new oranges
and lemons, holly, ivy, &c., and in Christmas
week he makes 3s. or 4s. a day.
These calculations give an average of about
14s. 6d. a week, when a man pursues his trade
regularly. One man calculated it for me at 15s. average the year through -- that is supposing,
of course, that the larger earnings of the sum-
mer are carefully put by to eke out the winter's
income. This, I need hardly say, is never done.
Prudence is a virtue, which is comparatively
unknown to the London costermongers. They
have no knowledge of savings'-banks; and to
expect that they themselves should keep their
money by them untouched for months (even if
they had the means of so doing) is simply to
expect impossibilities -- to look for the continued
withstanding of temptation among a class who
are unused to the least moral or prudential
restraint.
Some costers, I am told, make upwards of 30s. a week all the year round; but allowing for ces-
sations in the street-trade, through bad weather,
neglect, ill-health, or casualty of any kind, and
taking the more prosperous costers with the less
successful -- the English with the Irish -- the
men with the women -- perhaps 10s. a week may
be a fair average of the earnings of the entire
body the year through.
These earnings, I am assured, were five years
ago at least 25 per cent higher; some said they
made half as much again: "I can't make it
out how it is," said one man, "but I remember
that I could go out and sell twelve bushel of
Column 2
fruit in a day, when sugar was dear, and now,
when sugar's cheap, I can't sell three bushel on
the same round. Perhaps we want thinning."
Such is the state of the working-classes; say
all the costers, they have little or no money to
spend. "Why, I can assure you," declared one of
the parties from whom I obtained much import-
ant information, "there's my missis -- she sits at
the corner of the street with fruit. Eight years
ago she would have taken 8s. out of that street
on a Saturday, and last Saturday week she had
one bushel of apples, which cost 1s. 6d. She
was out from ten in the morning till ten at night,
and all she took that day was 1s. 7½d. Go to
whoever you will, you will hear much upon the
same thing." Another told me, "The costers
are often obliged to sell the things for what they
gave for them. The people haven't got money
to lay out with them -- they tell us so; and if
they are poor we must be poor too. If we can't
get a profit upon what goods we buy with our
stock-money, let it be our own or anybody's
else, we are compelled to live upon it, and when
that's broken into, we must either go to the
workhouse or starve. If we go to the workhouse,
they'll give us a piece of dry bread, and abuse us
worse than dogs." Indeed, the whole course of
my narratives shows how the costers generally --
though far from universally -- complain of the
depressed state of their trade. The following
statement was given to me by a man who, for
twelve years, had been a stall-keeper in a street-
market. It shows to what causes he (and I
found others express similar opinions) attributes
the depression: --
"I never knew things so bad as at present --
never! I had six prime cod-fish, weighing 15lbs.
to 20lbs. each, yesterday and the day before, and
had to take two home with me last night, and
lost money on the others -- besides all my time,
and trouble, and expense. I had 100 herrings,
too, that cost 3s. -- prime quality, and I only sold
ten out of them in a whole day. I had two pads
of soles, sir, and lost 4s. -- that is one pad -- by
them. I took only 4s. the first day I laid in this
stock, and only 2s. 6d. the next; I then had to
sell for anything I could get, and throw some
away. Yet, people say mine's a lazy, easy life.
I think the fall off is owing to meat being so
cheap, 'cause people buy that rather than my
goods, as they think there's more stay in it.
I'm afeard things will get worse too." (He then
added by way of sequitur, though it is difficult
to follow the reasoning,) "If this here is free-
trade, then to h -- with it, I say!"
I shall now pass, from the consideration of the
individual earnings, to the income and capital
of the entire body. Great pains have been
taken to ensure exactitude on these points, and
the following calculations are certainly below
the mark. In order to be within due bounds,
I will take the costermongers, exclusive of
their wives and families, at 10,000, whereas it
| 1,000 carts, at 3l. 3s. each \[Donkeys, and occasionally ponies, are harnessed to barrows.\] | \cp\3,150 |
| 5,000 barrows, at 1l. each | 10,000 |
| 1,500 donkeys, at 1l. 5s. each \[One intelligent man thought there were 2,000 donkeys, but I account that in excess.\] | 1,875 |
| 200 ponies, at 5l. each \[Some of these ponies, among the very first-class men, are worth 20l.: one was sold by a coster for 30l.\] | 1,000 |
| 1,700 sets of harness, at 5s. each \[All calculated as worn and second-hand.\] | 425 |
| 4,000 baskets (or shallows), at 1s. each | 200 |
| 3,500 stalls or standings, at 5s. each \[The stall and barrow men have generally baskets to be used when required.\] | 875 |
| 10,000 weights, scales, and measures, at 2s. 6d. each \[It is difficult to estimate this item with exactitude. Many averaged the value at 3s. 4d.\] | 1,250 |
| Stock-money for 10,000 costers, at 10s. each | 5,000 |
| Total capital | \cp\24.135 |
Upwards of 24,000l., then, at the most mo-
derate computation, represents the value of the
animals, vehicles, and stock, belonging to the
costermongers in the streets of London.
The keep of the donkeys is not here mixed
up with their value, and I have elsewhere
spoken of it.
The whole course of my narrative shows that
the bulk of the property in the street goods,
and in the appliances for their sale, is in the
hands of usurers as well as of the costers. The
following account shows the sum paid yearly
by the London costermongers for the hire, rent,
or interest (I have heard each word applied) of
their barrows, weights, baskets, and stock:
| Hire of 3,000 barrows, at 1s. a week \cp\14,000 | Hire of 600 weights, scales, &c., at 1s. 6d. a week for 2, and 6d. a week for 10 months #1,020 |
| Hire of 100 baskets, &c., at 6d. a week | 6,500 |
| Interest on 2,500l. stock-money, at 125l. per week \[Calculating at 1s. interest weekly for 20s.\] | 6,500 |
| Total paid for hire and interest | \cp\22,550 |
Concerning the income of the entire body of
costermongers in the metropolis, I estimate the
earnings of the 10,000 costermongers, taking
the average of the year, at 10s. weekly. My
own observation, the result of my inquiries, con-
firmed by the opinion of some of the most
intelligent of the costermongers, induce me to
adopt this amount. It must be remembered,
that if some costermongers do make 30s. a week
through the year, others will not earn a fourth
of it, and hence many of the complaints and
sufferings of the class. Then there is the draw-
Column 2
back in the sum paid for "hire," "interest,"
&c., by numbers of these people; so that it
appears to me, that if we assume the income of
the entire body -- including Irish and English --
to be 15s. a week per head in the summer, and
5s. a week each in the winter, as the two ex-
tremes, or a mean of 10s. a week all the year
through, we shall not be far out either way.
The aggregate earnings of the London coster-
mongers, at this rate, are 5,000l. per week, or
260,000l. yearly. Reckoning that 30,000 indi-
viduals have to be supported out of this sum, it
gives an average of 3s. 4d. a week per head.
But it is important to ascertain not only the
earnings or aggregate amount of profit made by
the London costermongers in the course of the
year, but likewise their receipts, or aggregate
amount of "takings," and thus to arrive at the
gross sum of money annually laid out by the
poorer classes of the metropolis in the matter
of fish, fruit, and vegetables alone. Assuming
that the average profits of the costermongers
are at the rate of 25 per cent. (and this, I am
satisfied, is a high estimate -- for we should
remember, that though cent. per cent. may be
frequently obtained, still their "goods," being of
a "perishable" nature, are as frequently lost or
sold off at a "tremendous sacrifice"); assuming
then, I say, that the average profits of the entire
10,000 individuals are 25 per cent on the cost-
price of their stock, and that the aggregate
amount of their profits or earnings is upwards
of 260,000l., it follows that the gross sum of
money laid out with the London costers in
the course of the twelvemonth is between
1,250,000l. and 1,500,000l. sterling -- a sum so
enormous as almost to make us believe that
the tales of individual want are matters of pure
fiction. Large, however, as the amount ap-
pears in the mass, still, if distributed among the
families of the working men and the poorer class
of Londoners, it will be found that it allows but
the merest pittance per head per week for the
consumption of those articles, which may be
fairly said to constitute the staple commodities
of the dinners and "desserts!" of the poor.
The costermongers, like all wandering tribes, have generally no foresight; only an exceptional few are provident -- and these are mostly the more intelligent of the class -- though some of the very ignorant do occasionally save. The providence of the more intelligent costermonger enables him in some few cases to become "a settled man," as I have before pointed out. He perhaps gets to be the proprietor of a coal-shed, with a greengrocery and potato business attached to it; and with the usual trade in oysters and ginger-beer. He may too, sometimes, have a sum of money in the savings'-bank, or he may invest it in the purchase of a lease of the premises he occupies, or expend it in furnishing the rooms of his house to let them out to single-men lodgers; or he may become an usurer, and lend out his
The provident costermonger, who has thus
"got on in the world," is rarely speculative. He
can hardly be induced to become a member of a
"building" or "freehold land" society, for in-
stance. He has been accustomed to an almost
immediate return for his outlays, and distrusts
any remote or contingent profit. A regular cos-
termonger -- or any one who has been a regular
costermonger, in whatever trade he may be after-
wards engaged -- generally dies intestate, let his
property be what it may; but there is seldom
any dispute as to the disposition of his effects:
the widow takes possession of them, as a matter
of course. If there be grown-up children, they
may be estranged from home, and not trouble
their heads about the matter; or, if not es-
tranged, an amicable arrangement is usually
come to. The costermongers' dread of all courts
of law, or of anything connected with the law,
is only second to their hatred of the police.
The more ignorant costermonger, on the other
hand, if he be of a saving turn, and have no
great passion for strong drink or gaming, is often
afraid to resort to the simple modes of invest-
ment which I have mentioned. He will rather
keep money in his pocket; for, though it does
not fructify there, at least it is safe. But this
is only when provided with a donkey or pony
"what suits;" when not so provided, he will
"suit himself" forthwith. If, however, he have
saved a little money, and have a craving after
gambling or amusements, he is sure at last to
squander it that way. Such a man, without any
craving for drink or gaming, will often continue
to pay usuriously for the hire of his barrow, not
suspecting that he is purchasing it over and
over and over again, in his weekly payments.
To suggest to him that he might place his
money in a bank, is to satisfy him that he would
be "had" in some way or other, as he believes
all banks and public institutions to be connected
with government, and the taxes, and the police.
Were any one to advise a man of this class -- and
it must be remembered that I am speaking of
the ignorant costers -- to invest a spare 50l. (supposing he possessed it) in the "three per
cents.," it would but provoke a snappish remark
that he knew nothing about them, and would
have nothing to do with them; for he would
be satisfied that there was "some cheatery at
the bottom." If he could be made to under-
stand what is meant by 3l. per centum per
annum, he would be sure to be indignant at the
robbery of giving only 7½d. for the use of 1l. for a whole year!
I may state, in conclusion, that a costermonger
of the class I have been describing, mostly objects
to give change for a five-pound note; he will
sooner give credit -- when he knows "the party"
-- than change, even if he have it. If, however,
he feels compelled, rather than offend a regular
customer, to take the note, he will not rest
Column 2
until he has obtained sovereigns for it at a
neighbouring innkeeper's, or from some trades-
man to whom he is known. "Sovereigns,"
said one man, and not a very ignorant man,
to me, "is something to lay hold on; a note
ain't."
Moreover, should one of the more ignorant,
having tastes for the beer-shop, &c., meet with
"a great haul," or save 5l. by some continuous
industry (which he will most likely set down as
"luck"), he will spend it idly or recklessly in
dissipation and amusement, regardless of the
coming winter, whatever he may have suffered
during the past. Nor, though they know, from
the bitterest experience, that their earnings in
the winter are not half those of the rest of the
year, and that they are incapacitated from
pursuing their trade in bad weather, do they
endeavour to make the extra gains of their best
time mitigate the want of the worst.
"Three wet days," I was told by a clergy- man, who is now engaged in selling stenographic cards in the streets, "will bring the greater part of 30,000 street-people to the brink of starva- tion." This statement, terrible as it is, is not exaggerated. The average number of wet days every year in London is, according to the records of the Royal Society, 161 -- that is to say, rain falls in the metropolis more than three days in each week, and very nearly every other day throughout the year. How precarious a means of living then must street-selling be!
When a costermonger cannot pursue his out-
door labour, he leaves it to the women and
children to "work the public-houses," while
he spends his time in the beer-shop. Here he
gambles away his stock-money oft enough, "if
the cards or the luck runs again him;" or
else he has to dip into his stock-money to
support himself and his family. He must
then borrow fresh capital at any rate of interest
to begin again, and he begins on a small scale.
If it be in the cheap and busy seasons, he may
buy a pad of soles for 2s. 6d., and clear 5s. on
them, and that "sets him a-going again, and
then he gets his silk handkerchief out of pawn,
and goes as usual to market."
The sufferings of the costermongers during
the prevalence of the cholera in 1849, were in-
tense. Their customers generally relinquished
the consumption of potatoes, greens, fruit, and
fish; indeed, of almost every article on the con-
sumption of which the costermongers depend
for his daily bread. Many were driven to
apply to the parish; "many had relief and
many hadn't," I was told. Two young men,
within the knowledge of one of my informants,
became professional thieves, after enduring
much destitution. It does not appear that the
costermongers manifested any personal dread of
the visitation of the cholera, or thought that
their lives were imperilled: "We weren't a bit
afraid," said one of them, "and, perhaps, that
called, the costermongers resort to an exciting
means; something is raffled, and the proceeds
given to the sufferer. This mode is common to
other working-classes; it partakes of the excite-
ment of gambling, and is encouraged by the
landlords of the houses to which the people
resort. The landlord displays the terms of the
raffle in his bar a few days before the occur-
rence, which is always in the evening. The
raffle is not confined to the sick, but when any
one of the class is in distress -- that is to say,
without stock-money, and unable to borrow it,
-- a raffle for some article of his is called at
a public-house in the neighbourhood. Cards
are printed, and distributed among his mates.
The article, let it be whatever it may -- perhaps
a handkerchief -- is put up at 6d. a member, and
from twenty to forty members are got, according
as the man is liked by his "mates," or as he has
assisted others similarly situated. The paper
of every raffle is kept by the party calling it, and
before he puts his name down to a raffle for an-
other party, he refers to the list of subscribers
to his raffle, in order to see if the person ever
assisted him. Raffles are very "critical things,
the pint pots fly about wonderful sometimes" --
to use the words of one of my informants. The
party calling the raffle is expected to take
the chair, if he can write down the subscribers'
names. One who had been chairman at one of
these meetings assured me that on a particular
occasion, having called a "general dealer" to
order, the party very nearly split his head open
with a quart measure. If the hucksters know
that the person calling the raffle is "down,"
and that it is necessity that has made him call
it, they will not allow the property put up to be
thrown for. "If you was to go to the raffle
to-night, sir," said one of them to me, many
months ago, before I became known to the class,
"they'd say to one another directly you come
in, `Who's this here swell? What's he want?'
And they'd think you were a `cad,' or else
a spy, come from the police. But they'd treat
you civilly, I'm sure. Some very likely would
fancy you was a fast kind of a gentleman,
come there for a lark. But you need have no
fear, though the pint pots does fly about some-
times."
The next point of consideration is what are the legal regulations under which the several de- scriptions of hawkers and pedlars are allowed to pursue their occupations.
The laws concerning hawkers and pedlars,
(50 Geo. III., c. 41, and 6 Geo. IV., c. 80,)
treat of them as identical callings. The
"hawker," however, is, strictly speaking, one
who sells wares by crying them in the streets
of towns, while the pedlar travels on foot through
the country with his wares, not publicly pro-
claiming them, but visiting the houses on his
way to solicit private custom. Until the com-
mencement of the present century -- before the
increased facilities for conveyance -- the pedlars
were a numerous body in the country. The
majority of them were Scotchmen and some
amassed considerable wealth. Railways, how-
ever, have now reduced the numbers to insig-
nificance.
Hawkers and pedlars are required to pay 4l. yearly for a license, and an additional 4l. for
every horse or ass employed in the conveyance
of wares. The hawking or exposing for sale of
fish, fruit, or victuals, does not require a license;
and further, it is lawful for any one "being the
maker of any home manufacture," to expose
it for sale in any fair or market, without a
warrant. Neither does anything in either of
the two acts in question prohibit "any tinker,
cooper, glazier, plumber, harness-mender, or
other person, from going about and carrying the
materials proper to their business."
The right of the costermongers, then, to
"hawk" their wares through the streets is
plainly inferred by the above acts; that is to
say, nothing in them extends to prohibit persons
"going about," unlicensed, and at their own
discretion, and selling fish, vegetables, fruit, or
provisions generally.
The law acknowledges none of the street
"markets." These congregatings are, indeed,
in antagonism to the municipal laws of London,
which provide that no market, or public place
where provisions are sold, shall be held within
seven miles of the city. The law, though it
permits butchers and other provisionmongers to
hire stalls and standings in the flesh and other
markets, recognised by custom or usage, gives
no such permission as to street-trading.
The right to sell provisions from stands in the
streets of the metropolis, it appears, is merely
permissive. The regulation observed is this:
where the costermongers or other street-dealers
have been in the habit of standing to sell their
goods, they are not to be disturbed by the police
unless on complaint of an adjacent shopkeeper
or other inhabitant. If such a person shows that
the costermonger, whose stand is near his pre-
mises, is by his improper conduct a nuisance,
or that, by his clamour or any peculiarity in his
mode of business, he causes a crowd to gather
It is somewhat anomalous, however, that the
law now recognises -- inferentially it is true --
the right of costermongers to carry about their
goods for sale. Formerly the stands were some-
times tolerated, but not the itinerancy.
The enactments of the Common-council from
the time of Elizabeth are stringent against
itinerant traders of all descriptions, but stringent
to no purpose of prevention. In 1607, a Com-
mon-council enactment sets forth, that "many
People of badd and lewde Condicon daylie
resorte from the most Parte of this Realme to the
said Cyttie, Suburbes, and Places adjoininge, pro-
curinge themselves small Habytacons, namely,
one Chamber-Roome for a poore Forreynor and
his Familye, in a small Cottage with some other
as poore as himself in the Cyttie, Suburbes, or
Places adjacente, to the great Increase and
Pestringe of this Cyttie with poore People;
many of them proovinge Shifters, lyvinge by
Cozeninge, Stealinge, and Imbeazellinge of
Mens Gooddes as Opportunitye may serve them,
remoovinge from Place to Place accordinglye;
many Tymes runninge away, forsakinge their
Wives and Children, leavinge them to the
Charge of the said Cyttie, and the Hospitalles
of the same."
It was towards this class of men who, by
their resort to the capital, recruited the numbers
of the street-sellers and public porters and
others that the jealousy of the Corporation
was directed. The city shop-keepers, three cen-
turies ago, complained vehemently and continu-
ously of the injuries inflicted on their trade by
itinerant dealers, complaints which led to boot-
less enactments. In Elizabeth's reign the Court
of Common Council declared that the streets of
the city should be used, as in ancient times, for
the common highway, and not for the traffic of
hucksters, pedlars, and hagglers. But this
traffic increased, and in 1632 another enactment
was accounted necessary. Oyster-wives, herb-
wives, tripe-wives, and all such "unruly peo-
ple," were threatened with the full pains and
penalties of the outraged law if they persevered
in the prosecution of their callings, which are
stigmatised as "a way whereby to live a more
easie life than by labour." In 1694 the street-
sellers were menaced with the punishments then
deemed suitable for arrant rogues and sturdy
beggars -- whipping; and that remedy to be ap-
plied alike to males and females!
The tenor of these Vagrant Laws not being
generally known, I here transcribe them, as
another proof of the "wisdom" and mercy of
our "ancestors" in "the good old times!"
In the year 1530 the English Parliament
enacted, that, while the impotent poor should
receive licenses from the justices of the peace
to beg within certain limits, all men and women,
Column 2
"being whole and mighty in body, and able to
labour," if found vagrant and unable to give an
account as to how they obtained their living,
should be apprehended by the constables, tied
to the tail of a cart naked, and beaten with whips
through the nearest market-town, or hamlet,
"till their bodies be bloody by reason of such
whipping!" Five years afterwards it was added,
that, if the individual had been once already
whipped, he or she should not only be whipped
again, but "also shall have the upper part of
the gristle of his ear clean cut off, so as it may
appear for a perpetual token hereafter that he
hath been a contemner of the good order of the
commonwealth." And finally, in 1562, it was
directed that any beggar convicted of being a
vagabond should, after being grievously whipped,
be burnt through the gristle of the right ear
"with a hot iron of the compass of an inch
about," unless some person should agree to
take him as a servant -- of course without wages
-- for a year; then, that if he twice ran away
from such master, he should be adjudged a
felon; and that if he ran away a third time, he
should "suffer pains of death and loss of land
and goods as a felon, without benefit of clergy
or sanctuary."
The only acts now in force which regulate
the government of the streets, so to speak, are
those best known as Michael Angelo Taylor's
Act, and the 2 & 3 Vic., best known as the
Police Act.
Such are the laws concerning street trading: let us now see the effect of them.
Within these three months, or little more, there
have been many removals of the costermongers
from their customary standings in the streets.
This, as I have stated, is never done, unless the
shopkeepers represent to the police that the cos-
termongers are an injury and a nuisance to them
in the prosecution of their respective trades.
The costermongers, for the most part, know
nothing of the representation of the shopkeepers,
so that perhaps the first intimation that they
must "quit" comes from the policemen, who
thus incur the full odium of the measure, the
majority of the street people esteeming it a mere
arbitrary act on the part of the members of
the force.
The first removal, recently, took place in
Leather-lane, Holborn, between three and four
months back. It was effected in consequence
of representations from the shopkeepers of the
neighbourhood. But the removal was of a brief
continuance. "Leather-lane," I was told, "looked
like a desert compared to what it was. People
that had lived there for years hardly knew
their own street; and those that had com-
plained, might twiddle their thumbs in their
shops for want of something better to do."
The reason, or one reason, why the shop-
keepers' trade is co-existent with that of the
street-sellers was explained to me in this way
In Leather-lane the shopkeepers speedily
retrieved what many soon came to consider the
false step (as regards their interests) which they
had taken, and in a fortnight or so, they ma-
naged, by further representations to the police
authorities, and by agreement with the street-
sellers, that the street-market people should
return. In little more than a fortnight from
that time, Leather-lane, Holborn, resumed its
wonted busy aspect.
In Lambeth the case at present is different.
The men, women, and children, between two and
three months back, were all driven by the police
from their standings. These removals were made,
I am assured, in consequence of representations
to the police from the parishioners, not of Lam-
beth, but of the adjoining parish of Christchurch,
Blackfriars-road, who described the market as
an injury and a hindrance to their business. The
costermongers, etc., were consequently driven
from the spot.
A highly respectable tradesman in "the Cut"
told me, that he and all his brother shopkeepers
had found their receipts diminished a quar-
ter, or an eighth at least, by the removal;
and as in all populous neighbourhoods profits
were small, this falling off was a very serious
matter to them.
In "the Cut" and its immediate neighbour-
hood, are tradesmen who supply street-dealers
with the articles they trade in, -- such as cheap
stationery, laces, children's shoes, braces, and
toys. They, of course, have been seriously affected
by the removal; but the pinch has fallen sorest
upon the street-sellers themselves. These people
depend a good deal one upon another, as they
make mutual purchases; now, as they have nei-
Column 2
ther stalls nor means, such a source of profit is
abolished.
"It is hard on such as me," said a fruit-seller
to me, "to be driven away, for nothing that I've
done wrong as I knows of, and not let me make
a living, as I've been brought up to. I can't
get no work at any of the markets. I've tried
Billingsgate and the Borough hard, but there is
so many poor men trying for a crust, they're fit to
knock a new-comer's head off, though if they did,
it wouldn't be much matter. I had 9s. 6d. stock-
money, and I sold the apples and a few pears I
had for 3s. 9d., and that 13s. 3d. I've been spin-
ning out since I lost my pitch. But it's done
now, and I haven't had two meals a day for a
week and more -- and them not to call meals --
only bread and coffee, or bread and a drink of
beer. I tried to get a round of customers, but
all the rounds was full, and I'm a very bad
walker, and a weak man too. My wife's gone to
try the country -- I don't know where she is now.
I suppose I shall lose my lodging this week,
and then I must see what `the great house' will
say to me. Perhaps they'll give me nothing,
but take me in, and that's hard on a man as
don't want to be a pauper."
Another man told me that he now paid 3s. a week for privilege to stand with two stalls on
a space opposite the entrance into the National
Baths, New Cut; and that he and his wife, who
had stood for eleven years in the neighbourhood,
without a complaint against them, could hardly
get a crust.
One man, with a fruit-stall, assured me that
nine months ago he would not have taken 20l. for
his pitch, and now he was a "regular bankrupt."
I asked a girl, who stood beside the kerb with
her load in front strapped round her loins, whe-
ther her tray was heavy to carry. "After eight
hours at it," she answered, "it swaggers me, like
drink." The person whom I was with brought
to me two girls, who, he informed me, had been
forced to go upon the streets to gain a living.
Their stall on the Saturday night used to have
4l. worth of stock; but trade had grown so bad
since the New Police order, that after living on
their wares, they had taken to prostitution for a
living, rather than go to the "house." The
ground in front of the shops has been bought up
by the costermongers at any price. Many now
give the tradesmen six shillings a week for a
stand, and one man pays as much as eight for
the right of pitching in front.
The applications for parochial relief, in con-
sequence of these removals, have been fewer
than was anticipated. In Lambeth parish, how-
ever, about thirty families have been relieved, at
a cost of 50l. Strange to say, a quarter, or rather
more, of the very applicants for relief had been
furnished by the parish with money to start the
trade, their expulsion from which had driven
them to pauperism.
It consequently becomes a question for serious
consideration, whether any particular body of
householders should, for their own interest, con-
venience, or pleasure, have it in their power to
I shall now treat of the tricks of trade practised
by the London costermongers. Of these the
costers speak with as little reserve and as little
shame as a fine gentleman of his peccadilloes.
"I've boiled lots of oranges," chuckled one
man, "and sold them to Irish hawkers, as wasn't
wide awake, for stunning big uns. The boiling
swells the oranges and so makes 'em look finer
ones, but it spoils them, for it takes out the
juice. People can't find that out though until
it's too late. I boiled the oranges only a few
minutes, and three or four dozen at a time."
Oranges thus prepared will not keep, and any
unfortunate Irishwoman, tricked as were my
informant's customers, is astonished to find her
stock of oranges turn dark-coloured and worth-
less in forty-eight hours. The fruit is "cooked"
in this way for Saturday night and Sunday sale
-- times at which the demand is the briskest.
Some prick the oranges and express the juice,
which they sell to the British wine-makers.
Apples cannot be dealt with like oranges, but
they are mixed. A cheap red-skinned fruit,
known to costers as "gawfs," is rubbed hard, to
look bright and feel soft, and is mixed with
apples of a superior description. "Gawfs are
sweet and sour at once," I was told, "and fit for
nothing but mixing." Some foreign apples, from
Holland and Belgium, were bought very cheap
last March, at no more than 16d. a bushel, and
on a fine morning as many as fifty boys might
be seen rubbing these apples, in Hooper-street,
Lambeth. "I've made a crown out of a bushel
of 'em on a fine day," said one sharp youth.
The larger apples are rubbed sometimes with a
piece of woollen cloth, or on the coat skirt, if
that appendage form part of the dress of the
person applying the friction, but most frequently
Column 2
they are rolled in the palms of the hand. The
smaller apples are thrown to and fro in a sack,
a lad holding each end. "I wish I knew how
the shopkeepers manage their fruit," said one
youth to me; "I should like to be up to some
of their moves; they do manages their things so
plummy."
Cherries are capital for mixing, I was assured
by practical men. They purchase three sieves
of indifferent Dutch, and one sieve of good
English cherries, spread the English fruit over
the inferior quality, and sell them as the best.
Strawberry pottles are often half cabbage leaves,
a few tempting strawberries being displayed on
the top of the pottle. "Topping up," said a
fruit dealer to me, "is the principal thing, and
we are perfectly justified in it. You ask any
coster that knows the world, and he'll tell you
that all the salesmen in the markets tops up.
It's only making the best of it." Filberts they
bake to make them look brown and ripe.
Prunes they boil to give them a plumper and
finer appearance. The latter trick, however, is
not unusual in the shops.
The more honest costermongers will throw
away fish when it is unfit for consumption,
less scrupulous dealers, however, only throw
away what is utterly unsaleable; but none of
them fling away the dead eels, though their
prejudice against such dead fish prevents their
indulging in eel-pies. The dead eels are mixed
with the living, often in the proportion of 20 lb.
dead to 5 lb. alive, equal quantities of each being
accounted very fair dealing. "And after all,"
said a street fish dealer to me, "I don't know
why dead eels should be objected to; the aristo-
crats don't object to them. Nearly all fish is
dead before it's cooked, and why not eels? Why
not eat them when they're sweet, if they're ever
so dead, just as you eat fresh herrings? I be-
lieve it's only among the poor and among our
chaps, that there's this prejudice. Eels die
quickly if they're exposed to the sun."
Herrings are made to look fresh and bright
by candle-light, by the lights being so disposed
"as to give them," I was told, "a good reflec-
tion. Why I can make them look splendid;
quite a pictur. I can do the same with macke-
rel, but not so prime as herrings."
There are many other tricks of a similar
kind detailed in the course of my narrative.
We should remember, however, that shopkeepers are not immaculate in this respect.
Having now given the reader a general view of the numbers, characters, habits, tastes, amuse- ments, language, opinions, earnings, and vicissi- tudes of the London costermongers, -- having de- Column 2scribed their usual style of dress, diet, homes, conveyances, and street-markets, -- having ex- plained where their donkeys are bought, or the terms on which they borrow them, their barrows, their stock-money, and occasionally their stock itself, -- having shown their ordinary mode of dealing, either in person or by deputy,
The facilities of railway conveyance, by
means of which fish can be sent from the coast
to the capital with much greater rapidity, and
therefore be received much fresher than was
formerly the case, have brought large supplies
to London from places that before contributed
no quantity to the market, and so induced, as I
heard in all quarters at Billingsgate, an extra-
ordinary lowness of price in this species of diet.
This cheap food, through the agency of the
costermongers, is conveyed to every poor man's
door, both in the thickly-crowded streets where
the poor reside -- a family at least in a room
-- in the vicinity of Drury-lane and of White-
chapel, in Westminster, Bethnal-green, and St.
Giles's, and through the long miles of the
suburbs. For all low-priced fish the poor are the
costermongers' best customers, and a fish diet
seems becoming almost as common among the
ill-paid classes of London, as is a potato diet
among the peasants of Ireland. Indeed, now,
the fish season of the poor never, or rarely, knows
an interruption. If fresh herrings are not in the
market, there are sprats; and if not sprats, there
are soles, or whitings, or mackarel, or plaice.
The rooms of the very neediest of our needy
metropolitan population, always smell of fish;
most frequently of herrings. So much so,
indeed, that to those who, like myself, have
been in the habit of visiting their dwellings, the
smell of herrings, even in comfortable homes,
savours from association, so strongly of squalor
and wretchedness, as to be often most oppres-
sive. The volatile oil of the fish seems to
hang about the walls and beams of the rooms
for ever. Those who have experienced the smell
of fish only in a well-ordered kitchen, can form
no adequate notion of this stench, in perhaps a
dilapidated and ill-drained house, and in a
rarely-cleaned room; and I have many a time
heard both husband and wife -- one couple espe-
cially, who were "sweating" for a gorgeous
clothes' emporium -- say that they had not time
to be clean.
The costermonger supplies the poor with
every kind of fish, for he deals, usually, in
every kind when it is cheap. Some confine
Column 2
their dealings to such things as shrimps, or
periwinkles, but the adhering to one particular
article is the exception and not the rule; while
shrimps, lobsters, &c., are rarely bought by the
very poor. Of the entire quantity of fish sent
to Billingsgate-market, the costermongers, sta-
tionary and itinerant, may be said to sell one-
third, taking one kind with another.
The fish sent to London is known to Billings-
gate salesmen as "red" and "white" fish. The
red fish is, as regards the metropolitan mart,
confined to the salmon. The other descrip-
tions are known as "white." The coster-
mongers classify the fish they vend as "wet"
and "dry." All fresh fish is "wet;" all
cured or salted fish, "dry." The fish which
is sold "pickled," is known by that appellation,
but its street sale is insignificant. The principal
fish-staple, so to speak of the street-fishmonger,
is soles, which are in supply all, or nearly all,
the year. The next are herrings, mackarel,
whitings, Dutch eels, and plaice. The trade in
plaice and sprats is almost entirely in the
hands of the costermongers; their sale of
shrimps is nearer a half than a third of the
entire quantity sent to Billingsgate; but their
purchase of cod, or of the best lobsters, or crabs,
is far below a third. The costermonger rarely
buys turbot, or brill, or even salmon, unless
he can retail it at 6d. the pound. When it
is at that price, a street salmon-seller told me
that the eagerness to buy it was extreme. He
had known persons, who appeared to him to
be very poor, buy a pound of salmon, "just for
a treat once in a way." His best, or rather
readiest customers -- for at 6d. a pound all
classes of the community may be said to be his
purchasers -- were the shopkeepers of the busier
parts, and the occupants of the smaller private
houses of the suburbs. During the past year
salmon was scarce and dear, and the coster-
mongers bought, comparatively, none of it. In
a tolerably cheap season they do not sell more
than from a fifteenth to a twentieth of the quan-
tity received at Billingsgate.
In order to be able to arrive at the quantity
or weight of the several kinds of fish sold by
the costermongers in the streets of London, it is
necessary that we should know the entire
amount sent to Billingsgate-market, for it is
only by estimating the proportion which the
street-sale bears to the whole, that we can
attain even an approximation to the truth.
The following Table gives the results of certain
information collected by myself for the first
time, I believe, in this country. The facts,
as well as the estimated proportions of each
kind of fish sold by the costermongers, have
been furnished me by the most eminent of the
Billingsgate salesmen -- gentlemen to whom I
am under many obligations for their kindness,
consideration, and assistance, at all times and
seasons.
The season for the street-fishmongers begins about October and ends in May.
In October, or a month or two earlier, may-be,
they generally deal in fresh herrings, the supply
of which lasts up to about the middle or end of
November. This is about the best season. The
herrings are sold to the poor, upon an average,
at twelve a groat, or from 3s. to 4s. the hundred.
After or during November, the sprat and plaice
season begins. The regular street-fishmonger,
however, seldom deals in sprats. He "works"
these only when there is no other fish to be got.
He generally considers this trade beneath him,
and more fit for women than men. Those costers
who do sell them dispose of them now by weight
at the rate of 1d. to 2d. the pound -- a bushel ave-
raging from 40 to 50 pounds. The plaice season
Column 2
continues to the first or second week in May. Dur-
ing May the casualty season is on, and there is
little fish certain from that time till salmon
comes in, and this is about the end of the month.
The salmon season lasts till about the middle of
July. The selling of salmon is a bad trade in
the poor districts, but a very good one in the
better streets or the suburbs. At this work the
street-fishmonger will sometimes earn on a fine
day from 5s. to 12s. The losses, however, are
very great in this article if the weather prove
bad. If kept at all "over" it loses its colour,
and turns to a pale red, which is seen immedi-
ately the knife goes into the fish. While I was
obtaining this information some months back, a
man went past the window of the house in which
I was seated, with a barrow drawn by a donkey.
He was crying, "Fresh cod, oh! 1½d. a pound,
cod alive, oh!" My informant called me to the
After the street-fishmonger has done his
morning's work, he sometimes goes out with
his tub of pickled salmon on a barrow or stall,
and sells it in saucers at 1d. each, or by the
piece. This he calls as "fine Newcastle salmon."
There is generally a great sale for this at the
races; and if country-people begin with a penny-
worth they end with a shillingsworth -- a penny-
worth, the costers say, makes a fool of the mouth.
If they have any on hand, and a little stale, at
the end of the week, they sell it at the public-
houses to the "Lushingtons," and to them, with
plenty of vinegar, it goes down sweet. It is gene-
rally bought for 7s. a kit, a little bit "pricked:"
but, if good, the price is from 12s. to 18s. "We're
in no ways particular to that," said one candid
coster to me. "We don't have the eating on it
ourselves, and people a'n't always got their taste,
especially when they have been drinking, and we
sell a great deal to parties in that way. We
think it no sin to cheat 'em of 1d. while the pub-
licans takes 1s."
Towards the middle of June the street-fish-
monger looks for mackerel, and he is gene-
rally employed in selling this fish up to the
end of July. After July the Billingsgate season
is said to be finished. From this time to the
middle of October, when the herrings return,
he is mostly engaged selling dried haddocks and
red herrings, and other "cas'alty fish that may
come across him." Many of the street-fish-
mongers object to deal in periwinkles, or stewed
mussels, or boiled whelks, because, being accus-
tomed to take their money in sixpences at a time,
they do not like, they say, to traffic in halfpenny-
worths. The dealers in these articles are gene-
rally looked upon as an inferior class.
There are, during the day, two periods for the
sale of street-fish -- the one (the morning trade)
beginning about ten, and lasting till one in the
day -- and the other (the night trade) lasting from
six in the evening up to ten at night. What fish
Column 2
is left in the forenoon is generally disposed of
cheap at night. That sold at the latter time is
generally used by the working-class for supper,
or kept by them with a little salt in a cool place
for the next day's dinner, if it will last as long.
Several articles are sold by the street-fishmonger
chiefly by night. These are oysters, lobsters,
pickled salmon, stewed mussels, and the like.
The reason why the latter articles sell better
by night is, my informant says, "Because
people are lofty-minded, and don't like to be
seen eating on 'em in the street in the day-time."
Shrimps and winkles are the staple commodities
of the afternoon trade, which lasts from three to
half-past five in the evening. These articles are
generally bought by the working-classes for their
tea.
To see this market in its busiest costermonger
time, the visitor should be there about seven
o'clock on a Friday morning. The marke opens
at four, but for the first two or three hours,
it is attended solely by the regular fishmongers
and "bummarees" who have the pick of the
best there. As soon as these are gone, the
costers' sale begins.
Many of the costers that usually deal in
vegetables, buy a little fish on the Friday. It
is the fast day of the Irish, and the mechanics'
wives run short of money at the end of the
week, and so make up their dinners with fish;
for this reason the attendance of costers' bar-
rows at Billingsgate on a Friday morning is
always very great. As soon as you reach the
Monument you see a line of them, with one or
two tall fishmonger's carts breaking the uni-
formity, and the din of the cries and commotion
of the distant market, begins to break on the ear
like the buzzing of a hornet's nest. The whole
neighbourhood is covered with the hand-barrows,
some laden with baskets, others with sacks. Yet
as you walk along, a fresh line of costers' barrows
are creeping in or being backed into almost im-
possible openings; until at every turning nothing
but donkeys and rails are to be seen. The morn-
ing air is filled with a kind of seaweedy odour,
reminding one of the sea-shore; and on entering
the market, the smell of fish, of whelks, red
herrings, sprats, and a hundred others, is almost
overpowering.
The wooden barn-looking square where the
fish is sold, is soon after six o'clock crowded with
shiny cord jackets and greasy caps. Every-
body comes to Billingsgate in his worst clothes,
and no one knows the length of time a coat can
be worn until they have been to a fish sale.
Through the bright opening at the end are
seen the tangled rigging of the oyster-boats
and the red worsted caps of the sailors. Over
the hum of voices is heard the shouts of the
salesmen, who, with their white aprons, peering
above the heads of the mob, stand on their
tables, roaring out their prices.
All are bawling together -- salesmen and huck-
sters of provisions, capes, hardware, and newspa-
In the darkness of the shed, the white bellies
of the turbots, strung up bow-fashion, shine like
mother-of-pearl, while, the lobsters, lying upon
them, look intensely scarlet, from the contrast.
Brown baskets piled up on one another, and
with the herring-scales glittering like spangles
all over them, block up the narrow paths.
Men in coarse canvas jackets, and bending under
huge hampers, push past, shouting "Move on!
move on, there!" and women, with the long limp
tails of cod-fish dangling from their aprons, elbow
their way through the crowd. Round the auc-
tion-tables stand groups of men turning over
the piles of soles, and throwing them down till
they slide about in their slime; some are smell-
ing them, while others are counting the lots.
"There, that lot of soles are worth your money,"
cries the salesman to one of the crowd as he
moves on leisurely; "none better in the market.
You shall have 'em for a pound and half-a-
crown." "Oh!" shouts another salesman, "it's
no use to bother him -- he's no go." Presently
a tall porter, with a black oyster-bag, staggers
past, trembling under the weight of his load,
his back and shoulders wet with the drippings
from the sack. "Shove on one side!" he mut-
ters from between his clenched teeth, as he forces
Column 2
his way through the mob. Here is a tray of
reddish-brown shrimps piled up high, and the
owner busy sifting his little fish into another
stand, while a doubtful customer stands in front,
tasting the flavour of the stock and consult-
ing with his companion in speculation. Little
girls carrying matting-bags, that they have
brought from Spitalfields, come up, and ask you
in a begging voice to buy their baskets; and
women with bundles of twigs for stringing her-
rings, cry out, "Half-penny a bunch!" from all
sides. Then there are blue-black piles of small
live lobsters, moving about their bound-up
claws and long "feelers," one of them occa-
sionally being taken up by a looker-on, and
dashed down again, like a stone. Everywhere
every one is asking, "What's the price,
master?" while shouts of laughter from round
the stalls of the salesmen, bantering each other,
burst out, occasionally, over the murmuring
noise of the crowd. The transparent smelts
on the marble-slabs, and the bright herrings,
with the lump of transparent ice magnifying
their eyes like a lens, are seldom looked at
until the market is over, though the hampers
and piles of huge maids, dropping slime from
the counter, are eagerly examined and bartered
for.
One side of the market is set apart for
whelks. There they stand in sackfulls, with
the yellow shells piled up at the mouth, and
one or two of the fish, curling out like cork-
screws, placed as a sample. The coster slips
one of these from its shell, examines it, pushes
it back again, and then passes away, to look
well round the market. In one part the stones
are covered with herring-barrels, packed closely
with dried fish, and yellow heaps of stiff had-
dock rise up on all sides. Here a man walks
up with his knot on his shoulder, waiting for a
job to carry fish to the trucks. Boys in ragged
clothes, who have slept during the night under
a railway-arch, clamour for employment; while
the heads of those returning from the oyster-
boats, rise slowly up the stone sides of the
wharf.
The costermongers have nicknamed the long
row of oyster boats moored close alongside the
wharf "Oyster-street." On looking down the
line of tangled ropes and masts, it seems as
though the little boats would sink with the crowds
of men and women thronged together on their
decks. It is as busy a scene as one can well
behold. Each boat has its black sign-board,
and salesman in his white apron walking up
and down "his shop," and on each deck is a
bright pewter pot and tin-covered plate, the
remains of the salesman's breakfast. "Who's for
Baker's?" "Who's for Archer's?" "Who'll have
Alston's?" shout the oyster-merchants, and the
red cap of the man in the hold bobs up and
down as he rattles the shells about with his
spade. These holds are filled with oysters -- a
gray mass of sand and shell -- on which is a bushel
measure well piled up in the centre, while some
of them have a blue muddy heap of mussels
Passing by a man and his wife who were
breakfasting on the stone coping, I went to the
shore where the watermen ply for passengers to
the eel boats. Here I found a crowd of punts,
half filled with flounders, and small closely-
packed baskets of them ranged along the seats.
The lads, who act as jacks-in-the-water, were
busy feeling in the mud for the fish that had
fallen over board, little caring for the water that
dashed over their red swollen feet. Presently a
boat, piled up with baskets, shot in, grazing the
bottom, and men and women, blue with the cold
morning air, stepped out.
The Dutch built eel-boats, with their bulging
polished oak sides, were half-hidden in the river
mist. They were surrounded by skiffs, that ply
from the Surrey and Middlesex shores, and
wait whilst the fares buy their fish. The holds
of these eel-boats are fitted up with long tanks of
muddy water, and the heads of the eels are seen
breathing on the surface -- a thick brown bubble
rising slowly, and floating to the sides. Wooden
sabots and large porcelain pipes are ranged
round the ledges, and men in tall fur caps with
high check bones, and rings in their ears, walk
the decks. At the stern of one boat was moored
a coffin-shaped barge pierced with holes, and
hanging in the water were baskets, shaped like
olive jars -- both to keep the stock of fish alive
and fresh. In the centre of the boat stood the
scales, -- a tall heavy apparatus, one side fitted up
with the conical net-bag to hold the eels, and
the other with the weights, and pieces of stone
to make up for the extra draught of the water
hanging about the fish. When a skiff load of
purchasers arrives, the master Dutchman takes
his hands from his pockets, lays down his pipe,
and seizing a sort of long-handled landing-net
scoops from the tank a lot of eels. The pur-
chasers examine them, and try to beat down the
price. "You calls them eels do you?" said a man
with his bag ready opened. "Yeas," answered
the Dutchman without any show of indignation.
"Certainly, there is a few among them," conti-
nued the customer; and after a little more of this
kind of chaffering the bargain is struck.
The visitors to the eel-boats were of all
grades; one was a neatly-dressed girl to whom
the costers showed the utmost gallantry, calling
her "my dear," and helping her up the shining
sides of the boat; and many of the men had on
Column 2
their blue serge apron, but these were only
where the prices were high. The greatest crowd
of customers is in the heavy barge alongside
of the Dutch craft. Here a stout sailor in his
red woollen shirt, and canvass petticoat, is sur-
rounded by the most miserable and poorest of
fish purchasers -- the men with their crushed
hats, tattered coats, and unshorn chins, and the
women with their pads on their bonnets, and
brown ragged gowns blowing in the breeze. One,
in an old table-cover shawl, was beating her
palms together before the unmoved Dutchman,
fighting for an abatement, and showing her
stock of halfpence. Others were seated round
the barge, sorting their lots in their shallows,
and sanding the fish till they were quite yellow.
Others, again, were crowding round the scales
narrowly watching the balance, and then beg-
ging for a few dead eels to make up any doubt-
ful weight.
As you walk back from the shore to the
market, you see small groups of men and
women dividing the lot of fish they have bought
together. At one basket, a coster, as you pass,
calls to you, and says, "Here, master, just put
these three halfpence on these three cod, and
obleege a party." The coins are placed, and
each one takes the fish his coin is on; and so
there is no dispute.
At length nearly all the busy marketing has
finished, and the costers hurry to breakfast. At
one house, known as "Rodway's Coffee-house,"
a man can have a meal for 1d. -- a mug of hot
coffee and two slices of bread and butter, while for
two-pence what is elegantly termed "a tight-
ner," that is to say, a most plentiful repast, may
be obtained. Here was a large room, with tables
all round, and so extremely silent, that the smack-
all of lips and sipping of coffee were alone heard.
Upwards of 1,500 men breakfast here in the
course of the morning, many of them taking as
many as three such meals. On the counter was
a pile of white mugs, and the bright tin cans
stood beside the blazing fire, whilst Rodway
himself sat at a kind of dresser, cutting up and
buttering the bread, with marvellous rapidity.
It was a clean, orderly, and excellent establish-
ment, kept by a man, I was told, who had risen
from a saloop stall.
Opposite to the Coal Exchange were ranged
the stalls and barrows with the street eatables,
and the crowds round each showed the effects of
the sharp morning air. One -- a Jew's -- had hot-
pies with lids that rose as the gravy was poured
in from an oil can; another carried a stone jar of
peppermint-water, at ½d. a glass; and the pea-
soup stand was hemmed in by boys and men
blowing the steam from their cups. Beside
these were Jews with cloth caps and knives, and
square yellow cakes; one old man, in a cor-
ner, stood examining a thread-bare scarf that
a cravatless coster had handed to him. Coffee-
stalls were in great plenty; and men left their
barrows to run up and have "an oyster," or
"an 'ot heel." One man here makes his living
by selling sheets of old newspapers, at ½d. each,
Everybody was soon busy laying out their
stock. The wrinkled dull-eyed cod was freshened
up, the red-headed gurnet placed in rows, the
eels prevented from writhing over the basket
sides by cabbage-leaves, and the soles paired off
like gloves. Then the little trucks began to
leave, crawling, as it were, between the legs of the
horses in the vans crowding Thames-street, and
plunging in between huge waggons, but still ap-
pearing safely on the other side; and the 4,000
costers who visit Billingsgate on the Friday
morning were shortly scattered throughout the
metropolis.
"Forestalling," writes Adam Smith, "is the buying or contracting for any cattle, provisions, or merchandize, on its way to the market (or at market), or dissuading persons from buying their goods there, or persuading them to raise the price, or spreading any false rumour with intent to enhance the value of any article. In the remoter periods of our history several statutes were passed, prohibiting forestalling under severe penalties; but as more enlarged views upon such subjects began to prevail, their impolicy became obvious, and they were consequently repealed in 1772. But forestalling is still punishable by fine and imprisonment; though it be doubtful whether any jury would now convict an individual accused of such prac- tices."
In Billingsgate the "forestallers" or mid-
dlemen are known as "bummarees," who, as
regards means, are a far superior class to the
"hagglers" (the forestallers of the "green"
markets). The bummaree is the jobber or specu-
lator on the fish-exchange. Perhaps on every
busy morning 100 men buy a quantity of fish,
which they account likely to be remunerative,
and retail it, or dispose of it in lots to the fish-
mongers or costermongers. Few if any of these
dealers, however, are merely bummarees. A
salesman, if he have disposed of the fish consigned
to himself, will turn bummaree if any bargain
tempt him. Or a fishmonger may purchase
twice the quantity he requires for his own
trade, in order to procure a cheaper stock, and
"bummaree" what he does not require. These
speculations in fish are far more hazardous than
those in fruit or vegetables, for later in the day
a large consignment by railway may reach Bil-
lingsgate, and, being thrown upon the market,
may reduce the price one half. In the vegetable
and fruit markets there is but one arrival.
The costermongers are among the best cus-
tomers of the bummarees.
I asked several parties as to the origin of
the word "bummaree," and how long it had
been in use. "Why, bless your soul, sir,"
Column 2
said one Billingsgate labourer, "there always
was bummarees, and there always will be; just
as Jack there is a `rough,' and I'm a blessed
`bobber."' One man assured me it was a French
name; another that it was Dutch. A fish-
monger, to whom I was indebted for informa-
tion, told me he thought that the bummaree
was originally a bum-boat man, who purchased
of the wind-bound smacks at Gravesend or the
Nore, and sent the fish up rapidly to the mar-
ket by land.
I may add, as an instance of the probable
gains of the forestallers, in the olden time, that
a tradesman whose family had been long con-
nected with Billingsgate, showed me by his pre-
decessors' books and memoranda, that in the
depth of winter, when the Thames was perhaps
choked with ice, and no supply of fish "got up"
to London, any, that might, by management,
reach Billingsgate used to command exorbitant
prices. To speak only of the present century:
March 11th, 1802, a cod fish (8 lbs.) was bought
by Messrs. Phillips and Robertson, fishmongers,
Bond-street, for 1l. 8s. February, 1809, a salmon
(19 lbs.) was bought by Mr. Phillips at a guinea
a pound, 19l. 19s. for the fish! March 24th,
1824, three lobsters were sold for a guinea each.
The "haggler," I may here observe, is the
bummaree or forestaller or middleman of the green
markets; as far as the costermonger's trade is
concerned, he deals in fruit and vegetables. Of
these trafficers there are fully 200 in Covent-
garden-market; from 60 to 70 in Farringdon;
from 40 to 50 in the Borough; from 50 to 60
in Spitalfields; and none in Portman-market;
such being the only wholesale green-markets
for the purposes of the costermongers. The
haggler is a middleman who makes his pur-
chases of the growers when the day is some-
what advanced, and the whole produce con-
veyed to the market has not been disposed of.
The grower will then, rather than be detained
in town, sell the whole lot remaining in his
cart or wagon to a haggler, who re-sells it to
the costers, or to any other customer, from a
stand which he hires by the day. The cos-
termongers who are the most provident, and
either have means or club their resources for a
large purchase, often buy early in the morning,
and so have the advantage of anticipating their
fellows in the street-trade, with the day before
them. Those who buy later are the customers
of the hagglers, and are street-sellers, whose
means do not command an extensive purchase,
or who do not care to venture upon one unless
it be very cheap. These men speak very bitterly
of the hagglers, calling them "cracked-up shop-
keepers" and "scurfs," and declaring that but
for them the growers must remain, and sell off
their produce cheap to the costermongers.
A species of forestalling is now not uncom-
mon, and is on the increase among the coster-
mongers themselves. There are four men,
having the command of money, who attend
the markets and buy either fish or vegetables
largely. One man especially buys almost daily
Moreover, a good many of the more intelligent
street-dealers now club together -- six of them,
for instance -- contributing 15s. each, and a quan-
tity of fish is thus bought by one of their body (a
smaller contribution suffices to buy vegetables).
Perhaps, on an equal partition, each man thus
gets for his 15s. as much as might have cost him
20s., had he bought "single-handed." This
mode of purchase is also on the increase.
Concerning the sale of "wet" or fresh fish, I had the following account from a trustworthy man, of considerable experience and superior education:
"I have sold `wet fish' in the streets for more
than fourteen years," he said; "before that I
was a gentleman, and was brought up a gentle-
man, if I'm a beggar now. I bought fish largely
in the north of England once, and now I must
sell it in the streets of London. Never mind
talking about that, sir; there's some things
won't bear talking about. There's a wonderful
difference in the streets since I knew them first;
I could make a pound then, where I can hardly
make a crown now. People had more money,
and less meanness then. I consider that the rail-
ways have injured me, and all wet fish-sellers, to
a great extent. Fish now, you see, sir, comes in
at all hours, so that nobody can calculate on the
quantity that will be received -- nobody. That's
the mischief of it; we are afraid to buy, and miss
many a chance of turning a penny. In my time,
since railways were in, I've seen cod-fish sold at
a guinea in the morning that were a shilling at
noon; for either the wind and the tide had
served, or else the railway fishing-places were
more than commonly supplied, and there was a
glut to London. There's no trade requires
greater judgment than mine -- none whatever.
Before the railways -- and I never could see the
good of them -- the fish came in by the tide, and
we knew how to buy, for there would be no more
till next tide. Now, we don't know. I go to
Billingsgate to buy my fish, and am very well
known to Mr. -- and Mr. -- (mentioning
the names of some well-known salesmen). The
Jews are my ruin there now. When I go to
Billingsgate, Mr. -- will say, or rather, I
will say to him, `How much for this pad of
soles?' He will answer, `Fourteen shillings.'
`Fourteen shillings!' I say, `I'll give you seven
shillings, -- that's the proper amount;' then
the Jew boys -- none of them twenty that are
there -- ranged about will begin; and one says,
when I bid 7s., `I'll give 8s;' `nine,' says
another, close on my left; `ten,' shouts another,
on my right, and so they go offering on; at last
Mr. -- says to one of them, as grave as a
Column 2
judge, `Yours, sir, at 13s,' but it's all gammon.
The 13s. buyer isn't a buyer at all, and isn't
required to pay a farthing, and never touches
the goods. It's all done to keep up the price to
poor fishmen, and so to poor buyers that are
our customers in the streets. Money makes
money, and it don't matter how. Those Jew
boys -- I dare say they're the same sort as once
sold oranges about the streets -- are paid, I know
1s. for spending three or four hours that way in
the cold and wet. My trade has been injured,
too, by the great increase of Irish coster-
mongers; for an Irishman will starve out an
Englishman any day; besides if a tailor can't
live by his trade, he'll take to fish, or fruit
and cabbages. The month of May is a fine
season for plaice, which is bought very largely
by my customers. Plaice are sold at ½d. and
1d. a piece. It is a difficult fish to manage, and
in poor neighbourhoods an important one to
manage well. The old hands make a profit out
of it; new hands a loss. There's not much
cod or other wet fish sold to the poor, while plaice
is in. "My customers are poor men's wives,
-- mechanics, I fancy. They want fish at most
unreasonable prices. If I could go and pull them
off a line flung off Waterloo-bridge, and no other
expense, I couldn't supply them as cheap as they
expect them. Very cheap fish-sellers lose their
customers, through the Billingsgate bummarees,
for they have pipes, and blow up the cod-fish,
most of all, and puff up their bellies till they
are twice the size, but when it comes to table,
there's hardly to say any fish at all. The Bil-
lingsgate authorities would soon stop it, if they
knew all I know. They won't allow any roguery,
or any trick, if they only come to hear of it.
These bummarees have caused many respectable
people to avoid street-buying, and so fair traders
like me are injured. I've nothing to complain of
about the police. Oft enough, if I could be al-
lowed ten minutes longer on a Saturday night,
I could get through all my stock without loss.
About a quarter to twelve I begin to halloo away
as hard as I can, and there's plenty of customers
that lay out never a farthing till that time, and
then they can't be served fast enough, so they
get their fish cheaper than I do. If any halloos
out that way sooner, we must all do the same.
Anything rather than keep fish over a warm
Sunday. I have kept mine in ice; I haven't
opportunity now, but it'll keep in a cool place
this time of year. I think there's as many
sellers as buyers in the streets, and there's scores
of them don't give just weight or measure. I
wish there was good moral rules in force, and
everybody gave proper weight. I often talk to
street-dealers about it. I've given them many a
lecture; but they say they only do what plenty
of shopkeepers do, and just get fined and go on
again, without being a pin the worse thought of.
They are abusive sometimes, too; I mean the
street-sellers are, because they are ignorant. I
have no children, thank God, and my wife helps
me in my business. Take the year through, I
clear from 10s. to 12s. every week. That's not
Subjoined is the amount (in round numbers)
of wet fish annually disposed of in the metro-
polis by the street-sellers:
| No. of Fish. | lbs. weight. | |
| Salmon | 20,000 | 175,000 |
| Live-cod | 100,000 | 1,000,000 |
| Soles | 6,500,000 | 1,650,000 |
| Whiting | 4,440,000 | 1,680,000 |
| Haddock | 250,000 | 500,000 |
| Plaice | 29,400,000 | 29,400,000 |
| Mackarel | 15,700,000 | 15,700,000 |
| Herrings | 875,000,000 | 210,000,000 |
| Sprats | " | 3,000,000 |
| Eels, from Holland | 400,000 | 65,000 |
| Flounders | 260,000 | 43,000 |
| Dabs | 270,000 | 48,000 |
| Total quantity of wet fish sold in the streets of London | 932,340,000 | 263,281,000 |
From the above Table we perceive that the fish,
of which the greatest quantity is eaten by the
poor, is herrings; of this, compared with plaice
there is upwards of thirty times the number
consumed. After plaice rank mackerel, and of
these the consumption is about one-half less in
number than plaice, while the number of soles
vended in the streets, is again half of that of
mackerel. Then come whiting, which are
about two-thirds the number of the soles, while
the consumption to the poor of haddock, cod,
eels, and salmon, is comparatively insignificant.
Of sprats, which are estimated by weight, only
one-fifth of the number of pounds are consumed
compared with the weight of mackerel. The
pounds' weight of herrings sold in the streets, in
the course of a year, is upwards of seven times
that of plaice, and fourteen times that of
mackerel. Altogether more than 260,000,000
pounds, or 116,000 tons weight of wet fish are
yearly purchased in the streets of London, for
the consumption of the humbler classes. Of
this aggregate amount, no less than five-sixths
consists of herrings; which, indeed, constitute
the great slop diet of the metropolis.
luxuries of the poor -- are generally introduced
about the 9th of November. Indeed "Lord
Mayor's day" is sometimes called "sprat day."
They continue in about ten weeks. They are
sold at Billingsgate by the "toss," or "chuck,"
which is about half a bushel, and weighs from
40lbs. to 50lbs. The price varies from 1s. to 5s. Sprats are, this season, pronounced remarkably
fine. "Look at my lot sir," said a street-seller
to me; "they're a heap of new silver," and the
bright shiny appearance of the glittering little
fish made the comparison not inappropriate.
In very few, if in any, instances does a
costermonger confine himself to the sale of
sprats, unless his means limit him to that one
branch of the business. A more prosperous
street-fishmonger will sometimes detach the
sprats from his stall, and his wife, or one of his
children will take charge of them. Only a few
sprat-sellers are itinerant, the fish being usually
sold by stationary street-sellers at "pitches."
One who worked his sprats through the streets,
or sold them from a stall as he thought best,
gave me the following account. He was dressed
in a newish fustian-jacket, buttoned close up his
chest, but showing a portion of a clean cotton
shirt at the neck, with a bright-coloured coarse
handkerchief round it; the rest of his dress was
covered by a white apron. His hair, as far as I
could see it under his cloth cap, was carefully
brushed, and (it appeared) as carefully oiled.
At the first glance I set him down as having
been a gentleman's servant. He had a some-
what deferential, though far from cringing
manner with him, and seemed to be about
twenty-five or twenty-six -- he thought he was
older, he said, but did not know his age ex-
actly.
"Ah! sir," he began, in a tone according with
his look, "sprats is a blessing to the poor.
Fresh herrings is a blessing too, and sprats is
young herrings, and is a blessing in 'portion"
[for so he pronounced what seemed to be a
favourite word with him "proportion"]. "It's
only four years -- yes, four, I'm sure of that --
since I walked the streets starving, in the depth
of winter, and looked at the sprats, and said, I
wish I could fill my belly off you. Sir, I hope
it was no great sin, but I could hardly keep my
hands from stealing some and eating them raw.
If they make me sick, thought I, the police 'll
take care of me, and that 'll be something.
While these thoughts was a passing through my
mind, I met a man who was a gentleman's
coachman; I knew him a little formerly, and so
I stopped him and told him who I was, and that
I hadn't had a meal for two days. `Well, by
G -- ,' said the coachman, `you look like it,
why I shouldn't have known you. Here's a
shilling.' And then he went on a little way, and
then stopped, and turned back and thrust 3½d. more into my hand, and bolted off. I've never
seen him since. But I'm grateful to him in the
To show how small a sum of money will enable
the struggling striving poor to obtain a living,
I may here mention that, in the course of my
inquiries among the mudlarks, I casually gave
a poor shoeless urchin, who was spoken of by
one of the City Missionaries as being a well-
disposed youth, 1s. out of the funds that had
been entrusted to me to dispense. Trifling as
the amount appears, it was the means of
keeping his mother, sister, and himself through
the winter. It was invested in sprats, and
turned over and over again.
I am informed, by the best authorities, that
near upon 1000 "tosses" of sprats are sold
daily in London streets, while the season lasts.
These, sold retail in pennyworths, at very
nearly 5s. the toss, give about 150l. a day, or
say 1,000l. a week spent on sprats by the poorer
classes of the metropolis; so that, calculating
the sprat season to last ten weeks, about 10,000l. would be taken by the costermongers during
that time from the sale of this fish alone.
Another return, furnished me by an eminent
salesman at Billingsgate, estimates the gross
quantity of sprats sold by the London costers
in the course of the season at three millions of
pounds weight, and this disposed of at the rate
of 1d. per pound, gives upwards of 12,000l. for
the sum of money spent upon this one kind
of fish.
I had the following account from an experi-
enced man. He lived with his mother, his
wife, and four children, in one of the streets
near Gray's-inn-lane. The street was inha-
bited altogether by people of his class, the
women looking sharply out when a stranger
visited the place. On my first visit to this
man's room, his wife, who is near her confine-
ment, was at dinner with her children. The
time was ¼ to 12. The meal was tea, and
bread with butter very thinly spread over it.
On the wife's bread was a small piece of
pickled pork, covering about one-eighth of the
slice of a quartern loaf cut through. In one
corner of the room, which is on the ground-
floor, was a scantily-covered bed. A few
dingy-looking rags were hanging up to dry in
the middle of the room, which was littered with
baskets and boxes, mixed up with old furniture,
so that it was a difficulty to stir. The room
(although the paper, covering the broken panes
in the window, was torn and full of holes) was
most oppressively close and hot, and there
was a fetid smell, difficult to sustain, though
it was less noticeable on a subsequent call.
I have often had occasion to remark that the
poor, especially those who are much subjected
to cold in the open air, will sacrifice much
for heat. The adjoining room, which had no
door, seemed littered like the one where the
family were. The walls of the room I was in
were discoloured and weather-stained. The only
attempt at ornament was over the mantel-shelf,
the wall here being papered with red and
other gay-coloured papers, that once had been
upholsterer's patterns.
On my second visit, the husband was at
dinner with the family, on good boiled beef and
potatoes. He was a small-featured man, with a
head of very curly and long black hair, and
both in mien, manners, and dress, resembled
the mechanic far more than the costermonger.
He said: --
"I've been twenty years and more, perhaps
twenty-four, selling shell-fish in the streets.
I was a boot-closer when I was young, and
have made my 20s. and 30s., and sometimes 40s.,
and then sometimes not 10s. a week; but I had
an attack of rheumatic-fever, and lost the use of
my hands for my trade. The streets hadn't
any great name, as far as I knew, then, but as
I couldn't work, it was just a choice between
street-selling and starving, so I didn't prefer the
last. It was reckoned degrading to go into the
streets -- but I couldn't help that. I was asto-
nished at my success when I first began, and
got into the business -- that is into the under-
standing of it -- after a week, or two, or three.
Why, I made 3l. the first week I knew my
trade, properly; yes, I cleared 3l.! I made,
not long after, 5l. a week -- but not often. I was
giddy and extravagant. Indeed, I was a fool,
and spent my money like a fool I could have
brought up a family then like a gentleman -- I
Column 2
send them to school as it is -- but I hadn't a
wife and family then, or it might have been
better; it's a great check on a man, is a family.
I began with shell-fish, and sell it still; very
seldom anything else. There's more demand
for shells, no doubt, because its far cheaper,
but then there's so many more sellers. I don't
know why exactly. I suppose it's because poor
people go into the streets when they can't live
other ways, and some do it because they think
it's an idle life; but it ain't. Where I took 35s. in a day at my stall -- and well on to half of it
profit -- I now take 5s. or 6s., or perhaps 7s., in
the day and less profit on that less money.
I don't clear 3s. a day now, take the year
through. I don't keep accounts, but I'm
certain enough that I average about 15s. a
week the year through, and my wife has to help
me to make that. She'll mind the stall, while I
take a round sometimes. I sell all kinds of
shell-fish, but my great dependence is on
winkles. I don't do much in lobsters. Very
few speculate in them. The price varies
very greatly. What's 10s. a score one day
may be 25s. the next. I sometimes get a score
for 5s. or 6s., but it's a poor trade, for 6d. is the
top of the tree, with me, for a price to a seller.
I never get more. I sell them to mechanics
and tradesmen. I do more in pound crabs.
There's a great call for haporths and pennorths
of lobster or crab, by children; that's their
claws. I bile them all myself, and buy them
alive. I can bile twenty in half an hour, and
do it over a grate in a back-yard. Lobsters
don't fight or struggle much in the hot
water, if they're properly packed. It's very
few that knows how to bile a lobster as he
should be biled. I wish I knew any way of
killing lobsters before biling them. I can't
kill them without smashing them to bits, and
that won't do at all. I kill my crabs before I
bile them. I stick them in the throat with a
knife and they're dead in an instant. Some
sticks them with a skewer, but they kick a good
while with the skewer in them. It's a shame
to torture anything when it can be helped. If
I didn't kill the crabs they'd shed every leg
in the hot water; they'd come out as bare of
claws as this plate. I've known it oft enough,
as it is; though I kill them uncommon quick, a
crab will be quicker and shed every leg -- throw
them off in the moment I kill them, but that
doesn't happen once in fifty times. Oysters
are capital this season, I mean as to quality,
but they're not a good sale. I made 3l. a
week in oysters, not reckoning anything else,
eighteen or twenty years back. It was easy to
make money then; like putting down one
sovereign and taking two up. I sold oysters
then oft enough at 1d. a piece. Now I sell
far finer at three a penny and five for 2d. People
can't spend money in shell-fish when they
haven't got any. They say that fortune knocks
once at every man's door. I wish I'd opened
my door when he knocked at it."
This man's wife told me afterwards, that last
As to the quantity of shell-fish sold in the
streets of London, the returns before-cited give
the following results:
| Oysters | 124,000,000 |
| Lobsters | 60,000 |
| Crabs | 50,000 |
| Shrimps | 770,000 pts. |
| Whelks | 4,950,000 |
| Mussels | 1,000,000 qts. |
| Cockles | 750,000 qts. |
| Periwinkles | 3,640,000 pts. |
Shrimp selling, as I have stated, is one of the trades to which the street-dealer often con fines himself throughout the year. The sale is about equally divided between the two sexes, but the men do the most business, walking some of them fifteen to twenty miles a day in a "round" of "ten miles there and ten back."
The shrimps vended in the streets are the
Yarmouth prawn shrimps, sold at Billingsgate
at from 6d. to 10d. a gallon, while the best
shrimps (chiefly from Lee, in Essex,) vary in
price from 10d. to 2s. 6d. a gallon; 2s. being
a common price. The shrimps are usually
mixed by the street-dealers, and they are cried,
from stalls or on rounds, "a penny half-pint, fine
fresh s'rimps." (I heard them called nothing but
"s'rimps" by the street-dealers.) The half-pint,
however, is in reality but half that quantity.
"It's the same measure as it was thirty years
back," I was told, in a tone as if its anti-
quity removed all imputation of unfair deal-
ing. Some young men "do well on s'rimps,"
sometimes taking 5s. in an hour on a Saturday
evening, "when people get their money, and
wants a relish." The females in the shrimp
line are the wives, widows, or daughters of
costermongers. They are computed to average
1s. 6d. a day profit in fine, and from 9d. to 1s. in bad weather; and, in snowy, or very severe
weather, sometimes nothing at all.
One shrimp-seller, a middle-aged woman,
wrapped up in a hybrid sort of cloak, that
was half a man's and half a woman's gar-
ment, gave me the following account. There
was little vulgarity in either her language or
manner.
"I was in the s'rimp trade since I was a girl.
I don't know how long. I don't know how old
I am. I never knew; but I've two children,
one's six and t'other's near eight, both girls;
I've kept count of that as well as I can. My
Column 2
husband sells fish in the street; so did father,
but he's dead. We buried him without the help
of the parish, as many gets -- that's something
to say. I've known the trade every way. It
never was any good in public-houses. They
want such great ha'p'orths there. They'll put
up with what isn't very fresh, to be sure, some-
times; and good enough for them too, I say,
as spoils their taste with drink." [This was
said very bitterly.] "If it wasn't for my hus-
band's drinking for a day together now and then
we'd do better. He's neither to have nor to hold
when he's the worse for liquor; and it's the
worse with him, for he's a quiet man when he's
his own man. Perhaps I make 9d. a day, per-
haps 1s. or more. Sometimes my husband takes
my stand, and I go a round. Sometimes, if he
gets through his fish, he goes my round. I give
good measure, and my pint's the regular s'rimp
pint." [It was the half-pint I have described.]
"The trade's not so good as it was. People hasn't
the money, they tells me so. It's bread before
s'rimps, says they. I've heard them say it very
cross, if I've wanted hard to sell. Some days
I can sell nothing. My children stays with my
sister, when me and my old man's out. They
don't go to school, but Jane (the sister) learns
them to sew. She makes drawers for the slop-
sellers, but has very little work, and gets very
little for the little she does; she would learn
them to read if she knew how. She's married
to a pavior, that's away all day. It's a hard life
mine, sir. The winter's a coming, and I'm now
sometimes numbed with sitting at my stall in
the cold. My feet feels like lumps of ice in
the winter; and they're beginning now, as if
they weren't my own. Standing's far harder
work than going a round. I sell the best s'rimps.
My customers is judges. If I've any s'rimps
over on a night, as I often have one or two
nights a week, I sells them for half-price to
an Irishwoman, and she takes them to the
beer-shops, and the coffee-shops. She washes
them. to look fresh. I don't mind telling that,
because people should buy of regular people.
It's very few people know how to pick a s'rimp
properly. You should take it by the head and
the tail and jam them up, and then the shell
separates, and the s'rimp comes out beautifully.
That's the proper way."
Sometimes the sale on the rounds may be the
same as that at the stalls, or 10 or 20 per cent.
more or less, according to the weather, as shrimps
can be sold by the itinerant dealers better than
by the stall-keepers in wet weather, when people
prefer buying at their doors. But in hot
weather the stall trade is the best, "for people
often fancy that the s'rimps is sent out to sell
'cause they'll not keep no longer. It's only
among customers as knows you, you can do
any good on a round then."
The costermongers sell annually, it ap-
pears, about 770,000 pints of shrimps. At
2d. a pint (a very low calculation) the street
sale of shrimps amount to upwards of 6,400l. yearly.
The trade in oysters is unquestionably one of the oldest with which the London -- or rather the English -- markets are connected; for oysters from Britain were a luxury in ancient Rome.
Oysters are now sold out of the smacks at
Billingsgate, and a few at Hungerford. The
more expensive kind such as the real Milton,
are never bought by the costermongers, but they
buy oysters of a "good middling quality." At
the commencement of the season these oysters
are 14s. a "bushel," but the measure contains
from a bushel and a half to two bushels, as it is
more or less heaped up. The general price,
however, is 9s. or 10s., but they have been 16s. and 18s. The "big trade" was unknown until
1848, when the very large shelly oysters, the fish
inside being very small, were introduced from
the Sussex coast. They were sold in Thames-
street and by the Borough-market. Their sale
was at first enormous. The costermongers distin-
guished them by the name of "scuttle-mouths."
One coster informant told me that on the Satur-
days he not unfrequently, with the help of a boy
and a girl, cleared 10s. by selling these oysters
in the streets, disposing of four bags. He thus
sold, reckoning twenty-one dozen to the bag,
2,016 oysters; and as the price was two for a
penny, he took just 4l. 4s. by the sale of oysters
in the streets in one night. With the scuttle-
mouths the costermonger takes no trouble: he
throws them into a yard, and dashes a few pails
of water over them, and then places them on his
barrow, or conveys them to his stall. Some of
the better class of costermongers, however, lay
down their oysters carefully, giving them oat-
meal "to fatten on."
In April last, some of the street-sellers of this
article established, for the first time, " oyster-
rounds." These were carried on by coster-
mongers whose business was over at twelve in
the day, or a little later; they bought a bushel
of scuttle-mouths (never the others), and, in
the afternoon, went a round with them to poor
neighbourhoods, until about six, when they
took a stand in some frequented street. Going
these oyster-rounds is hard work, I am told,
and a boy is generally taken to assist. Monday
afternoon is the best time for this trade, when
10s. is sometimes taken, and 4s. or 5s. profit
made. On other evenings only from 1s. to 5s. is taken -- very rarely the larger sum -- as the
later the day in the week the smaller is the
receipt, owing to the wages of the working
classes getting gradually exhausted.
The women who sell oysters in the street, and
whose dealings are limited, buy either of the
costermongers or at the coal-sheds. But nearly
all the men buy at Billingsgate, where as small
a quantity as a peck can be had.
An old woman, who had "seen better days,"
but had been reduced to keep an oyster-stall,
gave me the following account of her customers.
She showed much shrewdness in her conversa-
tion, but having known better days, she declined
Column 2
to enter upon any conversation concerning her
former life: --
"As to my customers, sir," she said, "why,
indeed, they're all sorts. It's not a very few
times that gentlemen (I call them so because
they're mostly so civil) will stop -- just as it's
getting darkish, perhaps, -- and look about them,
and then come to me and say very quick:
`Two penn'orth for a whet.' Ah! some of 'em
will look, may be, like poor parsons down upon
their luck, and swallow their oysters as if they
was taking poison in a hurry. They'll not touch
the bread or butter once in twenty times, but
they'll be free with the pepper and vinegar, or,
mayhap, they'll say quick and short, `A crust
off that.' I many a time think that two pen-
n'orth is a poor gentleman's dinner. It's the
same often -- but only half as often, or not half
-- with a poor lady, with a veil that once was
black, over a bonnet to match, and shivering
through her shawl. She'll have the same. About
two penn'orth is the mark still; it's mostly two
penn'orth. My son says, it's because that's the
price of a glass of gin, and some persons buy
oysters instead -- but that's only his joke, sir.
It's not the vulgar poor that's our chief cus-
tomers. There's many of them won't touch
oysters, and I've heard some of them say: `The
sight on 'em makes me sick; it's like eating
snails.' The poor girls that walk the streets
often buy; some are brazen and vulgar, and
often the finest dressed are the vulgarest; at
least, I think so; and of those that come to
oyster stalls, I'm sure it's the case. Some are
shy to such as me, who may, perhaps, call their
own mothers to their minds, though it aint
many of them that is so. One of them always
says that she must keep at least a penny for gin
after her oysters. One young woman ran away
from my stall once after swallowing one oyster
out of six that she'd paid for. I don't know
why. Ah! there's many things a person like
me sees that one may say, `I don't know why'
to; that there is. My heartiest customers, that
I serve with the most pleasure, are working
people, on a Saturday night. One couple -- I
think the wife always goes to meet her husband
on a Saturday night -- has two, or three, or four
penn'orth, as happens, and it's pleasant to
hear them say, `Won't you have another,
John?' or, `Do have one or two more, Mary
Anne.' I've served them that way two or three
years. They've no children, I'm pretty sure,
for if I say, `Take a few home to the little
ones,' the wife tosses her head, and says, half
vexed and half laughing, `Such nonsense.' I
send out a good many oysters, opened, for
people's suppers, and sometimes for supper
parties -- at least, I suppose so, for there's five
or six dozen often ordered. The maid-servants
come for them then, and I give them two or three
for themselves, and say, jokingly-like, `It's no
use offering you any, perhaps, because you'll have
plenty that's left.' They've mostly one answer:
`Don't we wish we may get 'em?' The very poor never buy of me, as I told you. A penny
The number of oysters sold by the coster-
mongers amounts to 124,000,000 a year. These,
at four a penny, would realise the large sum of
129,650l. We may therefore safely assume that
125,000l. is spent yearly in oysters in the streets
of London.
There are some street people who, nearly all the year through, sell nothing but periwinkles, and go regular rounds, where they are well known. The "wink" men, as these periwinkle sellers are called, generally live in the lowest parts, and many in lodging-houses. They are forced to live in low localities, they say, because of the smell of the fish, which is objected to. The city district is ordinarily the best for winkle- sellers, for there are not so many cheap shops there as in other parts. The summer is the best season, and the sellers then make, upon the average, 12s. a week clear profit; in the winter, they get upon the average, 5s. a week clear, by selling mussels and whelks -- for, as winkles last only from March till October, they are then obliged to do what they can in the whelk and mussel way. "I buy my winks," said one, "at Billingsgate, at 3s. and 4s. the wash. A wash is about a bushel. There's some at 2s., and some sometimes as low as 1s. the wash, but they wouldn't do for me, as I serve very respectable people. If we choose we can boil our winkles at Billingsgate by paying 4d. a week for boiling, and ½d. for salt, to salt them after they are boiled. Tradesmen's families buy them for a relish to their tea. It's reckoned a nice present from a young man to his sweetheart, is winks. Servant girls are pretty good customers, and want them cheaper when they say it's for themselves; but I have only one price."
One man told me he could make as much as
12s. a week -- sometimes more and sometimes less.
Column 2
He made no speeches, but sung -- " Winketty-
winketty-wink-wink-wink -- wink-wink -- wick-
etty-wicketty-wink -- fine fresh winketty-winks
wink wink." He was often so sore in the stomach
and hoarse with hallooing that he could hardly
speak. He had no child, only himself and
wife to keep out of his earnings. His room
was 2s. a week rent. He managed to get a bit
of meat every day, he said, "somehow or
'nother."
Another, more communicative and far more
intelligent man, said to me concerning the
character of his customers: "They're people
I think that like to daddle" (dawdle, I presume)
"over their teas or such like; or when a young
woman's young man takes tea with her mother
and her, then they've winks; and then there's
joking, and helping to pick winks, between
Thomas and Betsy, while the mother's busy
with her tea, or is wiping her specs, 'cause she
can't see. Why, sir, I've known it! I was
a Thomas that way myself when I was a
tradesman. I was a patten-maker once, but
pattens is no go now, and hasn't been for fifteen
year or more. Old people, I think, that lives
by themselves, and has perhaps an annuity or
the like of that, and nothing to do pertickler,
loves winks, for they likes a pleasant way of
making time long over a meal. They're the
people as reads a newspaper, when it's a week
old, all through. The other buyers, I think, are
tradespeople or working-people what wants a
relish. But winks is a bad trade now, and so
is many that depends on relishes."
One man who "works" the New Cut, has
the "best wink business of all." He sells
only a little dry fish with his winks, never wet
fish, and has "got his name up," for the
superiority of that shell-fish -- a superiority
which he is careful to ensure. He pays 8s. a week for a stand by a grocer's window. On
an ordinary afternoon he sells from 7s. to 10s. worth of periwinkles. On a Monday after-
noon he often takes 20s.; and on the Sunday
afternoon 3l. and 4l. He has two coster lads
to help him, and sometimes on a Sunday from
twenty to thirty customers about him. He
wraps each parcel sold in a neat brown paper
bag, which, I am assured, is of itself, an in-
ducement to buy of him. The "unfortunate"
women who live in the streets contiguous to the
Waterloo, Blackfriars, and Borough-roads, are
among his best customers, on Sundays espe-
cially. He is rather a public character, getting
up dances and the like. "He aint bothered --
not he -- with ha'p'orths or penn'orths of a Sun-
day," said a person who had assisted him. "It's
the top of the tree with his customers; 3d. or
6d. at a go." The receipts are one-half profit.
I heard from several that he was "the best man
for winks a-going."
The quantity of periwinkles disposed of by the
London street-sellers is 3,600,000 pints, which,
at 1d. per pint, gives the large sum of 15,000l. expended annually in this street luxury. It
should be remembered, that a very large con-
The dealing in "dry" or salt fish is never carried on as a totally distinct trade in the streets, but some make it a principal part of their busi- ness; and many wet fish-dealers whose "wet fish" is disposed of by noon, sell dry fish in the afternoon. The dry fish, proper, consists of dried mackerel, salt cod -- dried or barrelled -- smoked or dried haddocks (often called "finnie haddies"), dried or pickled salmon (but salmon is only salted or pickled for the streets when it can be sold cheap), and salt herrings.
A keen-looking, tidily-dressed man, who was
at one time a dry fish-seller principally, gave
me the following account. For the last two
months he has confined himself to another
branch of the business, and seemed to feel a
sort of pleasure in telling of the "dodges" he
once resorted to:
"There's Scotch haddies that never knew any-
thing about Scotland," he said, "for I've made
lots of them myself by Tower-street, just a
jump or two from the Lambeth station-house.
I used to make them on Sundays. I was a wet
fish-seller then, and when I couldn't get through
my haddocks or my whitings of a Saturday night,
I wasn't a-going to give them away to folks
that wouldn't take the trouble to lift me out of
a gutter if I fell there, so I presarved them.
I've made haddies of whitings, and good ones
too, and Joe made them of codlings besides.
I had a bit of a back-yard to two rooms, one
over the other, that I had then, and on a
Sunday I set some wet wood a fire, and put it
under a great tub. My children used to gut
and wash the fish, and I hung them on hooks
all round the sides of the tub, and made a
bit of a chimney in a corner of the top of the
tub, and that way I gave them a jolly good
smoking. My wife had a dry fish-stall and
sold them, and used to sing out `Real Scotch
haddies,' and tell people how they was from
Aberdeen; I've often been fit to laugh, she
did it so clever. I had a way of giving them a
yellow colour like the real Scotch, but that's a
secret. After they was well smoked they was
hung up to dry all round the rooms we lived in,
and we often had stunning fires that answered
as well to boil crabs and lobsters when they was
cheap enough for the streets. I've boiled a
mate's crabs and lobsters for 2½d.; it was two
boilings and more, and 2½d. was reckoned the
price of half a quarter of a hundred of coals and
the use of the pan. There's more ways than
one of making 6d., if a man has eyes in his
head and keeps them open. Haddocks that
wouldn't fetch 1d. a piece, nor any money at all
of a Saturday night, I've sold -- at least she has"
(indicating his wife by a motion of his thumb) --
"at 2d., and 3d., and 4d. I've bought fish of
costers that was over on a Saturday night, to
make Scotch haddies of them. I've tried
experience" (experiments) "too. Ivy, burnt
Column 2
under them, gave them, I thought, a nice
sort of flavour, rather peppery, for I used
always to taste them; but I hate living
on fish. Ivy with brown berries on it, as
it has about this time o' year, I liked best.
Holly wasn't no good. A black-currant bush
was, but it's too dear; and indeed it couldn't
be had. I mostly spread wetted fire-wood, as
green as could be got, or damp sticks of any
kind, over shavings, and kept feeding the fire.
Sometimes I burnt sawdust. Somehow, the
dry fish trade fell off. People does get so pry-
ing and so knowing, there's no doing nothing
now for no time, so I dropped the dry fish trade.
There's few up to smoking them proper; they
smoke 'em black, as if they was hung up in a
chimbley."
Another costermonger gave me the following
account:
"I've salted herrings, but the commonest way
of salting is by the Jews about Whitechapel.
They make real Yarmouth bloaters and all sorts
of fish. When I salted herrings, I bought them
out of the boats at Billingsgate by the hundred,
which is 120 fish. We give them a bit of a clean
-- hardly anything -- then chuck them into a tub
of salt, and keep scattering salt over them, and
let them lie a few minutes, or sometimes half an
hour, and then hang them up to dry. They
eat well enough, if they're eaten in time, for
they won't keep. I've known three day's old
herrings salted, just because there was no sale
for them. One Jew sends out six boys crying
`real Yarmouth bloaters.' People buy them
in preference, they look so nice and clean
and fresh-coloured. It's quite a new trade
among the Jews. They didn't do much that
way until two years back. I sometimes wish
I was a Jew, because they help one another,
and start one another with money, and so they
thrive where Christians are ruined. I smoked
mackerel, too, by thousands; that's a new trade,
and is done the same way as haddocks. Mackerel
that won't bring 1d. a piece fresh, bring 2d. smoked; they are very nice indeed. I make
about 10s. or 11s. a week by dry fish in the
winter months, and about as much by wet, --
but I have a tidy connection. Perhaps I make
17s. or 18s. a week all the year round."
The aggregate quantity of dry fish sold by
the London costermongers throughout the year
is as follows -- the results being deduced from
the table before given:
| Wet salt cod | 93,750 |
| Dry do | 1,000,000 |
| Smoked Haddocks | 4,875,000 |
| Bloaters | 36,750,000 |
| Red-herrings | 25,000,000 |
this account of the "street-sellers of fish," to
form an estimate of the amount of money annu-
ally expended by the labourers and the poorer
| Wet Fish. | \cp\ |
| 175,000 lbs. of salmon, at 6d. per lb. | 4,000 |
| 1,000,000lbs. of live cod, at 1½d. per lb. | 5,000 |
| 3,250,000 pairs of soles, at 1½d. per pair | 20,000 |
| 4,400,000 whiting, at ½d. each | 9,000 |
| 29,400,000 plaice, at ¾d. | 90,000 |
| 15,700,000 mackarel, at 6 for 1s. | 130,000 |
| 875,000,000 herrings, at 16 a groat | 900,000 |
| 3,000,000 lbs. of sprats. at 1d. per lb. | 12,000 |
| 400,000 lbs. of eels, at 3 lb. for 1s. . | 6,000 |
| 260,000 flounders, at 1d. per dozen. | 100 |
| 270,000 dabs, at 1d. per dozen | 100 |
| Sum total expended yearly in wet fish | 1,177,000 |
| 525,000 lbs. barrelled cod, at 1½d. | 3,000 |
| 500,000 lbs. dried salt cod, at 2d. | 4,000 |
| 4,875,000 smoked haddock, at 1d. | 20,000 |
| 36,750,000 bloaters, at 2 for 1d. | 75,000 |
| 25,000,000 red herrings, at 4 for 1d. | 25,000 |
| Sum total expended yearly in dry fish | 127,000 |
| 124,000,000 oysters, at 4 a penny | 125,000 |
| 60,000 lobsters, at 3d. | 750 |
| 50,000 crabs, at 2d. | 400 |
| 770,000 pints of shrimps, at 2d. | 6,000 |
| 1,000,000 quarts of mussels, at 1d. | 4,000 |
| 750,000 quarts of cockles, at 1d. | 3,000 |
| 4,950,000 whelks, at 8 for 1d. | 2,500 |
| 3,600,000 pints of periwinkles, at 1d. | 15,000 |
| Sum total expended yearly in shell-fish | 156,650 |
Adding together the above totals, we have
the following result as to the gross money
value of the fish purchased yearly in the Lon-
don streets:
| \cp\ | |
| Wet fish | 1,177,200 |
| Dry fish | 127,000 |
| Shell fish | 156,650 |
| Total | \cp\1,460,850 |
Hence we find that there is nearly a million
and a half of money annually spent by the
poorer classes of the metropolis in fish; a sum
so prodigious as almost to discredit every state-
ment of want, even if the amount said to be so
expended be believed. The returns from which
the above account is made out have been ob-
tained, however, from such unquestionable sources
-- not from one salesman alone, but checked and
corrected by many gentlemen who can have no
conceivable motive for exaggeration either one
way or the other -- that, sceptical as our utter
ignorance of the subject must necessarily make
Column 2
us, still if we will but examine for ourselves, we
shall find there is no gainsaying the facts.
Moreover as to the enormity of the amount
dispelling all ideas of privation among the in-
dustrious portion of the community, we shall
also find on examination that assuming the
working-men of the metropolis to be 500,000 in
number (the Occupation Abstract of 1841, gives
773,560 individuals following some employment
in London, but these include merchants, em-
ployers, shopkeepers, Government-officers and
others), and that they, with their wives and chil-
dren, make up one million individuals, it follows
that the sum per head, expended in fish by the
poorer classes every week, is a fraction more than
6¾d., or, in other words, not quite one penny a
day.
If the diet of a people be a criterion, as has
been asserted, of their character, it may be feared
that the present extensive fish-diet of the work-
ing-people of London, is as indicative of dege-
neracy of character, as Cobbett insisted must
result from the consumption of tea, and "the
cursed root," the potato. "The flesh of fish,"
says Pereira on Diet, "is less satisfying than the
flesh of either quadrupeds or birds. As it con-
tains a larger proportion of water (about 80 per
cent.), it is obviously less nourishing." Haller
tells us he found himself weakened by a fish-
diet; and he states that Roman Catholics are
generally debilitated during Lent. Pechlin also
affirms that a mechanic, nourished merely by
fish, has less muscular power than one who lives
on the flesh of warm-blooded animals. Jockeys,
who waste themselves in order to reduce their
weight, live principally on fish.
The classes of fish above given, are, when
considered in a "dietetical point of view," of
two distinct kinds; viz., those which form the
staple commodity of the dinners and suppers of
the poor, and those which are mere relishes or
stimuli to failing, rather than stays to, eager
appetites. Under the former head, I include
red-herrings, bloaters, and smoked haddocks;
such things are not merely provocatives to eat,
among the poor, as they are at the breakfast-
table of many an over-fed or intemperate man.
With the less affluent these salted fish are not a
"relish," but a meal.
The shell-fish, however, can only be consi-
dered as luxuries. The 150,000l. thus annu-
ally expended in the streets, represents the sum
laid out in mere relishes or stimuli to sluggish
appetites. A very large proportion of this amount,
I am inclined to believe, is spent by persons
whose stomachs have been disordered by drink.
A considerable part of the trade in the minor
articles, as winks, shrimps, &c., is carried on in
public-houses, while a favourite pitch for an
oyster-stall is outside a tavern-door. If, then,
so large an amount is laid out in an endeavour
to restore the appetite after drinking, how much
money must be squandered in destroying it by
the same means?
There are two kinds of fruit sold in the streets -- "green fruit" and "dry fruit."
In commerce, all fruit which is edible as it is
taken from the tree or the ground, is known
as "green." A subdivision of this green fruit
is into "fresh" or "tender" fruit, which in-
cludes currants, gooseberries, strawberries, and,
indeed, all fruits that demand immediate con-
sumption, in contradistinction to such produc-
tions as nuts which may be kept without injury
for a season. All fruit which is "cured" is
known as "dry" fruit. In summer the costers
vend "green fruit," and in the winter months, or
in the early spring, when the dearness or insuffi-
ciency of the supply of green fruit renders it
unsuited for their traffic, they resort, but not
extensively, to "dry fruit." It is principally,
however, when an abundant season, or the im-
possibility of keeping the dry fruit much longer,
has tended to reduce the price of it, that the
costlier articles are to be found on the coster-
monger's barrow.
Fruit is, for the most part, displayed on bar-
rows, by the street-dealers in it. Some who
supply the better sort of houses -- more espe-
cially those in the suburbs -- carry such things
as apples and plums, in elean round wicker-
baskets, holding pecks or half-pecks.
The commoner "green" fruits of home pro-
duce are bought by the costermonger in the mar-
kets. The foreign green fruit, as pine-apples,
melons, grapes, chestnuts, coker-nuts, Brazil-
nuts, hazel-nuts, and oranges, are purchased by
them at the public sales of the brokers, and of
the Jews in Duke's-place. The more intelligent
and thrifty of the costers buy at the public sales
on the principle of association, as I have elsewhere
described. Some costermongers expend as much
as 20l. at a time in such green fruit, or dry fruit,
as is not immediately perishable, at a public sale,
or at a fruit-warehouse, and supply the other
costers.
The regular costermongers seldom deal in
oranges and chestnuts. If they sell walnuts, they
reserve these, they say, for their Sunday after-
noon's pastime. The people who carry oranges,
chestnuts, or walnuts, or Spanish nuts about the
town, are not considered as costermongers, but
are generally, though not always, classed, by
the regular men, with the watercress-women,
the sprat-women, the winkle-dealers, and such
others, whom they consider beneath them. The
orange season is called by the costermonger the
"Irishman's harvest." Indeed, the street trade
in oranges and nuts is almost entirely in the
Column 2
hands of the Irish and their children; and of
the children of costermongers. The costers
themselves would rather starve -- and do starve
now and then -- than condescend to it. The
trade in coker-nuts is carried on greatly by
the Jews on Sundays, and by young men
and boys who are not on other days employed
as street-sellers.
The usual kinds of fruit the regular costers
deal in are strawberries, raspberries (plain and
stalked), cherries, apricots, plums, green-gages,
currants, apples, pears, damsons, green and ripe
gooseberries, and pine-apples. They also deal
in vegetables, such as turnips, greens, brocoli,
carrots, onions, celery, rhubarb, new potatoes,
peas, beans (French and scarlet, broad and Wind-
sor), asparagus, vegetable marrow, seakale, spi-
nach, lettuces, small salads, radishes, etc. Their
fruit and vegetables they usually buy at Covent-
garden, Spitalfields, or the Borough markets.
Occasionally they buy some at Farringdon, but
this they reckon to be very little better than a
"haggler's market," -- a "haggler" being, as I
before explained, the middle-man who attends
in the fruit and vegetable-markets, and buys of
the salesman to sell again to the retail dealer or
costermonger.
Concerning the quantity of fruit and vege-
tables sold in the streets, by the London cos-
termongers. This, as I said, when treat-
ing of the street-trade in fish, can only be
arrived at by ascertaining the entire quantity
sold wholesale at the London markets, and then
learning from the best authorities the propor-
tion retailed in the public thoroughfares, Fully
to elucidate this matter, both as to the extent of
the metropolitan supply of vegetables and fruit,
("foreign" as well as "home-grown," and
"green" as well as "dry") and the relative
quantity of each, vended through the agency of
the costermongers, I caused inquiries to be
instituted at all the principal markets and
brokers (for not even the vaguest return on the
subject had, till then, been prepared), and
received from all the gentlemen connected
therewith, every assistance and information, as
I have here great pleasure in acknowledging.
To carry out my present inquiry, I need not
give returns of the articles not sold by the cos-
termongers, nor is it necessary for me to cite
any but those dealt in by them generally. Their
exceptional sales, such as of mushrooms, cu-
cumbers, &c., are not included here.
The following Table shows the ordinary
annual supply of home grown fruit (nearly all
produced within a radius of twelve miles from
the Bank) to each of the London "green"
markets.
The various proportions of the several kinds
of fruit and vegetables sold by the costermongers
are here calculated for all the markets, from
returns which have been obtained from each
market separately. To avoid unnecessary detail,
however, these several items are lumped toge-
ther, and the aggregate proportion above given.
The foregoing Table, however, relates chiefly
to "home grown" supplies. Concerning the
quantity of foreign fruit and vegetables im-
ported into this country, the proportion con-
sumed in London, and the relative amount sold
by the costers, I have obtained the following
returns: --
| Description. | Quantity sold wholesale in London. | Proportion sold retail in the the streets. |
| FRUIT | ||
| Apples | 39,561 bush. | seven-eighths. |
| Pears | 19,742 | seven-eignths. |
| Cherries | 264,240 lbs. two-thirds. | Grapes #1,328,190 " #one-fiftieth. |
| Pne-apples | 200,000 fruit | one-tenth. |
| Oranges | 61,635,146 " | one-fourth. |
| Lemons | 15,408,789 " | one-hundredth. |
| NUTS. | ||
| Spanish Nuts [unclear: ] | ||
| 72,509 bush. | one-third. | |
| Barcelona " | ||
| Brazil " | 11,700 " | one-fourth. |
| Chestnuts | 26,250 " | one-fourth. |
| Walnuts | 36,088 " | two-thirds. |
| "Coker"-nuts. | 1,255,000 nuts | one-third. |
| VEGETABLES. | ||
| Potatoes | 79,654,400lbs. | one-half. |
Here, then, we have the entire metropolitan
supply of the principal vegetables and green
fruit (both home grown and foreign), as well as
the relative quantity "distributed" throughout
London by the costermongers; it now but
remains for me, in order to complete the ac-
count, to do the same for "the dry fruit."
| Description. | Quantity sold wholesale in London. | Proportion sold re- tail in the streets. |
| Shell Al- | ||
| monds | 12,500 cwt. | half per cent. |
| Raisins | 135,000 " | quarter per cent. |
| Currants | 250,000 " | none. |
| Figs | 21,700 " | one per cent. |
| Prunes | 15,000 " | quarter per cent. |
The strawberry season begins about June,
and continues till about the middle of July.
From the middle to the end of July the costers
"work" raspberries. During July cherries are
"in" as well as raspberries; but many costers
prefer working raspberries, because "they're a
quicker sixpence." After the cherries, they go
to work upon plums, which they have about the
end of August. Apples and pears come in after
the plums in the month of September, and the
apples last them all through the winter till the
Column 2
month of May. The pears last only till Christ-
mas. Currants they work about the latter end
of July, or beginning of August.
Concerning the costermonger's vegetable sea-
son, it may be said that he "works" greens
during the winter months, up to about March;
from that time they are getting "leathery," the
leaves become foxy, I was told, and they eat
tough when boiled. The costers generally do not
like dealing either in greens or turnips, "they
are such heavy luggage," they say. They would
sooner "work" green peas and new potatoes.
The costermonger, however, does the best at
fruit; but this he cannot work -- with the ex-
ception of apples -- for more than four months
in the year. They lose but little from the fruit
spoiling. "If it doesn't fetch a good price, it
must fetch a bad one," they say; but they are
never at a great loss by it. They find the "ladies"
their hardest or "scaliest" customers. Whatever
price they ask, they declare the "ladies" will
try to save the market or "gin" penny out of
it, so that they may have "a glass of something
short" before they go home.
computed that as many as 2,000 donkey-barrows,
and upwards of 3,000 women with shallows and
head-baskets visit this market during the fore-
noon. About six o'clock in the morning is the
best time for viewing the wonderful restlessness
of the place, for then not only is the "Garden"
itself all bustle and activity, but the buyers and
sellers stream to and from it in all directions,
filling every street in the vicinity. From Long
Acre to the Strand on the one side, and from
Bow-street to Bedford-street on the other, the
ground has been seized upon by the market-goers.
As you glance down any one of the neighbour-
ing streets, the long rows of carts and donkey-
barrows seem interminable in the distance.
They are of all kinds, from the greengrocer's
taxed cart to the coster's barrow -- from the
showy excursion-van to the rude square donkey-
cart and bricklayer's truck. In every street
they are ranged down the middle and by the
kerb-stones. Along each approach to the
market, too, nothing is to be seen, on all sides,
but vegetables; the pavement is covered with
heaps of them waiting to be carted; the flag-
stones are stained green with the leaves trodden
under foot; sieves and sacks full of apples and
potatoes, and bandles of brocoli and rhubarb,
are left unwatched upon almost every door-
step; the steps of Covent Garden Theatre are
covered with fruit and vegetables; the road is
blocked up with mountains of cabbages and
turnips; and men and women push past with
their arms bowed out by the cauliflowers under
them, or the red tips of carrots pointing from
their crammed aprons, or else their faces are red
with the weight of the loaded head-basket.
The donkey-barrows, from their number and
singularity, force you to stop and notice them.
Every kind of ingenuity has been exercised to
The market itself presents a beautiful scene.
In the clear morning air of an autumn day the
whole of the vast square is distinctly seen from
one end to the other. The sky is red and golden
with the newly-risen sun, and the rays falling
on the fresh and vivid colours of the fruit and
vegetables, brightens up the picture as with a
coat of varnish. There is no shouting, as at
other markets, but a low murmuring hum is
heard, like the sound of the sea at a distance,
and through each entrance to the market the
crowd sweeps by. Under the dark Piazza little
bright dots of gas-lights are seen burning in
the shops; and in the paved square the people
pass and cross each other in all directions, ham-
pers clash together, and excepting the carters
from the country, every one is on the move.
Sometimes a huge column of baskets is seen in
the air, and walks away in a marvellously steady
manner, or a monster railway van, laden with
sieves of fruit, and with the driver perched up
on his high seat, jolts heavily over the stones.
Cabbages are piled up into stacks as it were.
Carts are heaped high with turnips, and bunches
of carrots like huge red fingers, are seen in all
directions. Flower-girls, with large bundles of
violets under their arms, run past, leaving a
trail of perfume behind them. Wagons, with
their shafts sticking up in the air, are ranged
before the salesmen's shops, the high green load
railed in with hurdles, and every here and there
bunches of turnips are seen flying in the air
over the heads of the people. Groups of apple-
women, with straw pads on their crushed bon-
nets, and coarse shawls crossing their bosoms,
sit on their porter's knots, chatting in Irish, and
smoking short pipes; every passer-by is hailed
with the cry of, "Want a baskit, yer honor?"
The porter, trembling under the piled-up
hamper, trots along the street, with his teeth
Column 2
clenched and shirt wet with the weight, and
staggering at every step he takes.
Inside, the market all is bustle and confusion.
The people walk along with their eyes fixed on
the goods, and frowning with thought. Men in
all costumes, from the coster in his corduroy suit
to the greengrocer in his blue apron, sweep past.
A countryman, in an old straw hat and dusty
boots, occasionally draws down the anger of a
woman for walking about with his hands in
the pockets of his smock-frock, and is asked,
"if that is the way to behave on a market-
day?" Even the granite pillars cannot stop
the crowd, for it separates and rushes past them,
like the tide by a bridge pier. At every turn
there is a fresh odour to sniff at; either the
bitter aromatic perfume of the herbalists' shops
breaks upon you, or the scent of oranges, then
of apples, and then of onions is caught for an
instant as you move along. The brocoli tied
up in square packets, the white heads tinged
slightly red, as it were, with the sunshine,
-- the sieves of crimson love-apples, polished
like china, -- the bundles of white glossy leeks,
their roots dangling like fringe, -- the celery,
with its pinky stalks and bright green tops, --
the dark purple pickling-cabbages, -- the scarlet
carrots, -- the white knobs of turnips, -- the bright
yellow balls of oranges, and the rich brown
coats of the chesnuts -- attract the eye on every
side. Then there are the apple-merchants, with
their fruit of all colours, from the pale yellow
green to the bright crimson, and the baskets
ranged in rows on the pavement before the
little shops. Round these the customers stand
examining the stock, then whispering together
over their bargain, and counting their money.
"Give you four shillings for this here lot,
master," says a coster, speaking for his three
companions. "Four and six is my price,"
answers the salesman. "Say four, and it's a
bargain," continues the man. "I said my price,"
returns the dealer; "go and look round, and
see if you can get 'em cheaper; if not, come back.
I only wants what's fair." The men, taking the
salesman's advice, move on. The walnut mer-
chant, with the group of women before his shop,
peeling the fruit, their fingers stained deep brown,
is busy with the Irish purchasers. The onion
stores, too, are surrounded by Hibernians, feel-
ing and pressing the gold-coloured roots, whose
dry skins crackle as they are handled. Cases of
lemons in their white paper jackets, and blue
grapes, just seen above the sawdust are ranged
about, and in some places the ground is slip-
pery as ice from the refuse leaves and walnut
husks scattered over the pavement.
Against the railings of St. Paul's Church are
hung baskets and slippers for sale, and near
the public-house is a party of countrymen pre-
paring their bunches of pretty coloured grass --
brown and glittering, as if it had been bronzed.
Between the spikes of the railing are piled up
square cakes of green turf for larks; and at the
pump, boys, who probably have passed the pre-
vious night in the baskets about the market, are
Under the Piazza the costers purchase their
flowers (in pots) which they exchange in the
streets for old clothes. Here is ranged a small
garden of flower-pots, the musk and mignonette
smelling sweetly, and the scarlet geraniums,
with a perfect glow of coloured air about the
flowers, standing out in rich contrast with the
dark green leaves of the evergreens behind them.
"There's myrtles, and larels, and boxes," says
one of the men selling them, "and there's a
harbora witus, and lauristiners, and that bushy
shrub with pink spots is health." Men and
women, selling different articles, walk about
under the cover of the colonnade. One has seed-
cake, another small-tooth and other combs,
others old caps, or pig's feet, and one hawker
of knives, razors, and short hatchets, may occa-
sionally be seen driving a bargain with a country-
man, who stands passing his thumb over the
blade to test its keenness. Between the pillars
are the coffee-stalls, with their large tin cans
and piles of bread and butter, and protected
from the wind by paper screens and sheets
thrown over clothes-horses; inside these little
parlours, as it were, sit the coffee-drinkers
on chairs and benches, some with a bunch of
cabbages on their laps, blowing the steam from
their saucers, others, with their mouths full,
munching away at their slices, as if not a
moment could be lost. One or two porters are
there besides, seated on their baskets, breakfast-
ing with their knots on their heads.
As you walk away from this busy scene, you
meet in every street barrows and costers hurry-
ing home. The pump in the market is now
surrounded by a cluster of chattering wenches
quarrelling over whose turn it is to water their
drooping violets, and on the steps of Covent
Garden Theatre are seated the shoeless girls,
tying up the halfpenny and penny bundles.
The fruit selling of the streets of London is
of a distinct character from that of vegetable or
fish selling, inasmuch as fruit is for the most
part a luxury, and the others are principally
necessaries.
There is no doubt that the consumption of
fruit supplies a fair criterion of the condition
of the working classes, but the costermongers, as
a body of traders, are little observant, so that it
is not easy to derive from them much informa-
tion respecting the classes who are their cus-
tomers, or as to how their custom is influenced
Column 2
by the circumstances of the times. One man,
however, told me that during the last panic he
sold hardly anything beyond mere necessaries.
Other street-sellers to whom I spoke could not
comprehend what a panic meant.
The most intelligent costers whom I con-
versed with agreed that they now sold less
fruit than ever to working people, but perhaps
more than ever to the dwellers in the smaller
houses in the suburbs, and to shopkeepers who
were not in a large way of business. One man
sold baking apples, but not above a peck on an
average weekly, to women whom he knew to be
the wives of working men, for he had heard them
say, "Dear me, I didn't think it had been so late,
there's hardly time to get the dumplings baked
before my husband leaves work for his dinner."
The course of my inquiries has shown me -- and
many employers whom I have conversed with
are of a similar opinion -- that the well-conducted
and skilful artisan, who, in spite of slop com-
petition, continues to enjoy a fair rate of wages,
usually makes a prudent choice of a wife, who
perhaps has been a servant in a respectable
family. Such a wife is probably "used to
cooking," and will oft enough make a pie or
pudding to eke out the cold meat of the Mon-
day's dinner, or "for a treat for the children."
With the mass of the working people, however,
it is otherwise. The wife perhaps has been
reared to incessant toil with her needle, and
does not know how to make even a dumpling.
Even if she possess as much knowledge, she
may have to labour as well as her husband, and
if their joint earnings enable them to have "the
added pudding," there is still the trouble of
making it; and, after a weary week's work, rest
is often a greater enjoyment than a gratifica-
tion of the palate. Thus something easily
prepared, and carried off to the oven, is pre-
ferred. The slop-workers of all trades never,
I believe, taste either fruit pie or pudding, un-
less a penny one be bought at a shop or in the
street; and even among mechanics who are used
to better diet, the pies and puddings, when wages
are reduced, or work grows slack, are the first
things that are dispensed with. "When the
money doesn't come in, sir," one working-man
said to me, "we mustn't think of puddings, but
of bread."
A costermonger, more observant than the
rest, told me that there were some classes to
whom he had rarely sold fruit, and whom he had
seldom seen buy any. Among these he mentioned
sweeps, scavengers, dustmen, nightmen, gas-
pipe-layers, and sewer-men, who preferred
to any fruit, "something to bite in the mouth,
such as a penn'orth of gin." My informant
believed that this abstinence from fruit was
common to all persons engaged in such offen-
sive trades as fiddle-string making, gut-dress-
ing for whip-makers or sausage-makers, knack-
ers, &c. He was confident of it, as far as his
own experience extended. It is, moreover, less
common for the women of the town, of the poorer
sort, to expend pence in fruit than in such things
The fruit-sellers, meaning thereby those who
deal principally in fruit in the season, are the
more intelligent costermongers. The calcula-
tion as to what a bushel of apples, for instance,
will make in half or quarter pecks, puzzles the
more ignorant, and they buy "second-hand," or
of a middle-man, and consequently dearer. The
Irish street-sellers do not meddle much with
fruit, excepting a few of the very best class
of them, and they "do well in it," I was
told, "they have such tongue."
The improvement in the quality of the fruit
and vegetables now in our markets, and conse-
quently in the necessaries and luxuries of the
poorer classes, is very great. Prizes and medals
have been deservedly awarded to the skilled and
persevering gardeners who have increased the
size and heightened the flavour of the pine-apple
or the strawberry -- who have given a thinner
rind to the peach, or a fuller gush of juice to
the apricot, -- or who have enhanced alike the
bloom, the weight, and the size of the fruit of
the vine, whether as regards the classic "bunch,"
or the individual grape. Still these are benefits
confined mainly to the rich. But there is another
class of growers who have rendered greater ser-
vices and whose services have been compara-
tively unnoticed. I allude to those gardeners
who have improved or introduced our every
day vegetables or fruit, such as now form the
cheapest and most grateful and healthy enjoy-
ments of the humbler portion of the community.
I may instance the introduction of rhubarb,
which was comparatively unknown until Mr.
Myatt, now of Deptford, cultivated it thirty
years ago. He then, for the first time, carried
seven bundles of rhubarb into the Borough
market. Of these he could sell only three,
and he took four back with him. Mr. Myatt
could not recollect the price he received for
the first rhubarb he ever sold in public, but he
told me that the stalks were only about half the
substance of those he now produces. People
laughed at him for offering "physic pies," but
he persevered, and I have shown what the sale
of rhubarb now is.
Moreover, the importation of foreign "pines"
may be cited as another instance of the increased
luxuries of the poor. The trade in this com-
modity was unknown until the year 1842. At
that period Mr. James Wood and Messrs. Clay-
pole and Son, of Liverpool, imported them
from the Bahamas, a portion being conveyed
to Messrs. Keeling and Hunt, of London. Since
that period the trade has gradually increased
until, instead of 1000 pines being sent to Liver-
pool, and a portion of them conveyed to Lon-
don, as at first, 200,000 pines are now imported
to London alone. The fruit is brought over in
"trees," stowed in numbers from ten to thirty
thousand, in galleries constructed fore and aft in
Column 2
the vessel, which is so extravagantly fragrant,
that it has to be ventilated to abate the odour.
But for this importation, and but for the trade
having become a part of the costermonger's
avocation, hundreds and thousands in London
would never have tasted a pine-apple. The
quality of the fruit has, I am informed, been
greatly improved since its first introduction;
the best description of "pines" which Covent-
garden can supply having been sent out to graft,
to increase the size and flavour of the Bahaman
products, and this chiefly for the regalement of
the palates of the humbler classes of London.
The supply from the Bahamas is considered in-
exhaustible.
Pine-apples, when they were first introduced,
were a rich harvest to the costermonger. They
made more money "working" these than any
other article. The pines cost them about 4d. each, one with the other, good and bad together,
and were sold by the costermonger at from 1s. to 1s. 6d. The public were not aware then that
the pines they sold were "salt-water touched,"
and the people bought them as fast as they
could be sold, not only by the whole one, but
at 1d. a slice, -- for those who could not afford
to give 1s. for the novelty, had a slice as a
taste for 1d. The costermongers used then
to have flags flying at the head of their bar-
rows, and gentlefolk would stop them in the
streets; indeed, the sale for pines was chiefly
among "the gentry." The poorer people --
sweeps, dustmen, cabmen -- occasionally had
pennyworths, "just for the fun of the thing;"
but gentlepeople, I was told, used to buy a whole
one to take home, so that all the family might
have a taste. One costermonger assured me
that he had taken 22s. a day during the rage for
pines, when they first came up.
I have before stated that when the season is
in its height the costermonger prefers the vend-
ing of fruit to the traffic in either fish or vege-
tables; those, however, who have regular rounds
and "a connection," must supply their customers
with vegetables, if not fish, as well as fruit, but
the costers prefer to devote themselves princi-
pally to fruit. I am unable, therefore, to draw
a comparison between what a coster realises in
fruit, and what in fish, as the two seasons are
not contemporary. The fruit sale is, however,
as I have shown in p. 54, the costermonger's
harvest.
All the costermongers with whom I conversed
represented that the greater cheapness and
abundance of fruit had been anything but a
benefit to them, nor did the majority seem to
know whether fruit was scarcer or more plenti-
ful one year than another, unless in remarkable
instances. Of the way in which the introduction
of foreign fruit had influenced their trade, they
knew nothing. If questioned on the subject, the
usual reply was, that things got worse, and
people didn't buy so much fruit as they did
half-a-dozen years back, and so less was sold.
That these men hold such opinions must be
accounted for mainly by the increase in their
The fruit of which there is the readiest sale
in the streets is one usually considered among
the least useful -- cherries. Probably, the greater
eagerness on the part of the poorer classes to
purchase this fruit arises from its being the first
of the fresh "green" kind which our gardens
supply for street-sale after the winter and the
early spring. An intelligent costermonger sug-
gested other reasons. "Poor people," he said,
"like a quantity of any fruit, and no fruit is
cheaper than cherries at 1d. a pound, at which I
have sold some hundreds of pounds' weight.
I'm satisfied, sir, that if a cherry could be grown
that weighed a pound, and was of a finer flavour
than ever was known before, poor people would
rather have a number of little ones, even if they
was less weight and inferior quality. Then boys
buy, I think, more cherries than other fruit;
because, after they have eaten 'em, they can
play at cherry-stones.' "
From all I can learn, the halfpenny-worth
of fruit purchased most eagerly by a poor man,
or by a child to whom the possession of a
halfpenny is a rarity, is cherries. I asked a
man "with a good connection," according to
his own account, as to who were his customers
for cherries. He enumerated ladies and gen-
tlemen; working-people; wagoners and carters
(who "slipped them quietly into their pockets,"
he said); parlour-livers (so he called the occu-
pants of parlours); maid-servants; and sol-
diers. "Soldiers." I was told, "are very fond
of something for a change from their feed, which
is about as regular as a prison's."
The currant, and the fruit of the same useful
genus, the gooseberry, are sold largely by the
costermongers. The price of the currants is 1d. or 2d. the half-pint, 1d. being the more usual
charge. Of red currants there is the greatest
supply, but the black "go off better." The
humbler classes buy a half-pint of the latter for a
dumpling, and "they're reckoned," said my in-
formant, "capital for a sore throat, either in jam
or a pudding." Gooseberries are also retailed
by the half-pint, and are cheaper than currants
-- perhaps ½d. the half-pint is the average
street-price. The working-classes do not use
ripe gooseberries, as they do ripe currants, for
dumplings, but they are sold in greater quanti-
ties and may be said to constitute, when first
introduced, as other productions do afterwards,
the working-people's Sunday dessert. "Only
you go on board a cheap steamer to Greenwich,
on a fine summer Sunday," observed a street-
seller to me, "and you'll see lots of young
women with gooseberries in their handkerchiefs
in their laps. Servant-maids is very good cus-
tomers for such things as gooseberries, for they
always has a penny to spare." The costers sell
green gooseberries for dumplings, and some-
times to the extent of a fourth of the ripe fruit.
The price of green gooseberries is generally ½d. a pint dearer than the ripe.
When strawberries descend to such a price
Column 2
as places them at the costermonger's command,
the whole fraternity is busily at work, and as
the sale can easily be carried on by women and
children, the coster's family take part in the
sale, offering at the corners of streets the fra-
grant pottle, with the crimson fruit just showing
beneath the green leaves at the top. Of all
cries, too, perhaps that of "hoboys" is the
most agreeable. Strawberries, however, accord-
ing to all accounts, are consumed least of all
fruits by the poor. "They like something more
solid," I was told, "something to bite at, and
a penny pottle of strawberries is only like a
taste; what's more, too, the really good fruit
never finds its way into penny pottles." The
coster's best customers are dwellers in the
suburbs, who purchase strawberries on a Sun-
day especially, for dessert, for they think that
they get them fresher in that way than by
reserving them from the Saturday night, and
many are tempted by seeing or hearing them
cried in the streets. There is also a good Sun-
day sale about the steam-wharfs, to people
going "on the river," especially when young
women and children are members of a party,
and likewise in the "clerk districts," as Cam-
den-town and Camberwell. Very few pottles,
comparatively, are sold in public-houses; "they
don't go well down with the beer at all," I was
told. The city people are good customers for
street strawberries, conveying them home. Good
strawberries are 2d. a pottle in the streets when
the season is at its height. Inferior are 1d.
These are the most frequent prices. In rasp-
berries the coster does little, selling them only
to such customers as use them for the sake of
jam or for pastry. The price is from 6d. to
1s. 6d. the pottle, 9d. being the average.
The great staple of the street trade in green
fruit is apples. These are first sold by the
travelling costers, by the measure, for pies, &c.,
and to the classes I have described as the
makers of pies. The apples, however, are soon
vended in penny or halfpenny-worths, and then
they are bought by the poor who have a spare
penny for the regalement of their children or
themselves, and they are eaten without any
preparation. Pears are sold to the same classes
as are apples. The average price of apples, as
sold by the costermonger, is 4s. a bushel, and
six a penny. The sale in halfpenny and penny-
worths is very great. Indeed the costermongers
sell about half the apples brought to the mar-
kets, and I was told that for one pennyworth of
apples bought in a shop forty were bought in
the street. Pears are 9d. a bushel, generally,
dearer than apples, but, numerically, they run
more to the bushel.
The costers purchase the French apples at
the wharf, close to London-bridge, on the
Southwark side. They give 10s., 12s., 18s., or 20s. for a case containing four bushels.
They generally get from 9d. to 1s. profit on a
bushel of English, but on the French apples
they make a clear profit of from 1s. 3d. to 2s. a
bushel, and would make more, but the fruit some-
Plums and damsons are less purchased by the
humbler classes than apples, or than any other
larger sized fruit which is supplied abundantly.
"If I've worked plums or damsons," said an
experienced costermonger, "and have told any
woman pricing them: `They don't look so ripe,
but they're all the better for a pie,' she's an-
swered, `O, a plum pie's too fine for us, and
what's more, it takes too much sugar.' " They
are sold principally for desserts, and in penny-
worths, at 1d. the half-pint for good, and ½d. for inferior. Green-gages are 50 per cent.
higher. Some costers sell a cheap lot of plums
to the eating-house keepers, and sell them
more readily than they sell apples to the same
parties.
West Indian pine-apples are, as regards the
street sale, disposed of more in the city than
elsewhere. They are bought by clerks and
warehousemen, who carry them to their sub-
urban homes. The slices at ½d. and 1d. are
bought principally by boys. The average price
of a "good street pine" is 9d.
Peaches are an occasional sale with the cos-
termongers', and are disposed of to the same
classes as purchase strawberries and pines.
The street sale of peaches is not practicable if
the price exceed 1d. a piece.
Of other fruits, vended largely in the streets,
I have spoken under their respective heads.
The returns before cited as to the quantity of
home-grown and foreign green fruit sold in
London, and the proportion disposed of by the
costermongers give the following results (in
round numbers), as to the absolute quantity of
the several kinds of green fruit (oranges and
nuts excepted) "distributed" throughout the
metropolis by the stree-sellers.
| 343,000 | bushels of apples, (home-grown) |
| 34,560 | " apples, (foreign) |
| 176,500 | " pears, (home-grown) |
| 17,235 | " pears, (foreign) |
| 1,039,200 | lbs. of cherries, (home-grown) |
| 176,160 | " cherries, (foreign) |
| 11,766 | bushels of plums, |
| 100 | " greengages, |
| 548 | " damsons, |
| 2,450 | " bullaces, |
| 207,525 | " gooseberries, |
| 85,500 | sieves of red currants, |
| 13,500 | " black currants, |
| 3,000 | " white currants, |
| 763,750 | pottles of strawberries, |
| 1,762 | " raspberries, |
| 30,485 | " mulberries, |
| 6,012 | bushels of hazel nuts, |
| 17,280 | lbs. of filberts, |
| 26,563 | " grapes, |
| 20,000 | pines. |
principally by costermongers, who there pur-
chase their oranges, lemons, and nuts. This
market is entirely in the hands of the Jews; and
although a few tradesmen may attend it to
buy grapes, still it derives its chief custom from
the street-dealers who say they can make far
better bargains with the Israelites, (as they never
refuse an offer,) than they can with the Covent-
garden salesmen, who generally cling to their
prices. This market is known by the name of
"Duke's-place," although its proper title is
St. James's-place. The nearest road to it is
through Duke's-street, and the two titles have
been so confounded that at length the mistake
has grown into a custom.
Duke's-place -- as the costers call it -- is a
large square yard, with the iron gates of a
synagogue in one corner, a dead wall forming
one entire side of the court, and a gas-lamp on
a circular pavement in the centre. The place
looks as if it were devoted to money-making --
for it is quiet and dirty. Not a gilt letter is to
be seen over a doorway; there is no display of
gaudy colour, or sheets of plate-glass, such as
we see in a crowded thoroughfare when a cus-
tomer is to be caught by show. As if the
merchants knew their trade was certain, they
are content to let the London smoke do their
painter's work. On looking at the shops
in this quarter, the idea forces itself upon one
that they are in the last stage of dilapidation.
Never did property in Chancery look more
ruinous. Each dwelling seems as though a fire
had raged in it, for not a shop in the market
has a window to it; and, beyond the few sacks
of nuts exposed for sale, they are empty, the
walls within being blackened with dirt, and the
paint without blistered in the sun, while the
door-posts are worn round with the shoulders
of the customers, and black as if charred. A
few sickly hens wander about, turning over the
heaps of dried leaves that the oranges have
been sent over in, or roost the time away on the
shafts and wheels of the nearest truck. Ex-
cepting on certain days, there is little or no
business stirring, so that many of the shops
have one or two shutters up, as if a death had
taken place, and the yard is quiet as an inn of
court. At a little distance the warehouses,
with their low ceilings, open fronts, and black
sides, seem like dark holes or coal-stores; and,
but for the mahogany backs of chairs showing
at the first floors, you would scarcely believe
the houses to be inhabited, much more to be
elegantly furnished as they are. One of the
drawing-rooms that I entered here was warm
and red with morocco leather, Spanish maho-
gany, and curtains and Turkey carpets; while
the ormolu chandelier and the gilt frames of the
looking-glass and pictures twinkled at every
point in the fire-light.
The householders in Duke's-place are all of
the Jewish persuasion, and among the costers a
Almost every shop has a Scripture name over
it, and even the public-houses are of the Hebrew
faith, their signs appealing to the followers of
those trades which most abound with Jews.
There is the "Jeweller's Arms," patronised
greatly of a Sunday morning, when the Israelite
jewellers attend to exchange their trinkets and
barter amongst themselves. Very often the
counter before "the bar" here may be seen cov-
ered with golden ornaments, and sparkling with
precious stones, amounting in value to thousands
of pounds. The landlord of this house of call
is licensed to manufacture tobacco and cigars.
There is also the "Fishmongers' Arms," the
resort of the vendors of fried soles; here, in the
evening, a concert takes place, the performers
and audience being Jews. The landlord of this
house too is licensed to manufacture tobacco
and cigars. Entering one of these houses I
found a bill announcing a "Bible to be raffled
for, the property of -- ." And, lastly, there
is "Benjamin's Coffee-house," open to old
clothesmen; and here, again, the proprietor is
a licensed tobacco-manufacturer. These facts
are mentioned to show the untiring energy of
the Jew when anything is to be gained, and to
give an instance of the curious manner in which
this people support each other.
Some of the nut and orange shops in
Duke's-place it would be impossible to de-
scribe. At one sat an old woman, with jet-
black hair and a wrinkled face, nursing an
infant, and watching over a few matted baskets
of nuts ranged on a kind of carpenter's bench
placed upon the pavement. The interior of the
house was as empty as if it had been to let,
excepting a few bits of harness hanging against
the wall, and an old salt-box nailed near the
gas-lamp, in which sat a hen, "hatching," as I
was told. At another was an excessively stout
Israelite mother, with crisp negro's hair and
long gold earrings, rolling her child on the
table used for sorting the nuts. Here the black
walls had been chalked over with scores, and
every corner was filled up with sacks and orange-
cases. Before one warehouse a family of six,
from the father to the infant, were busy washing
walnuts in a huge tub with a trap in the side,
and around them were ranged measures of the
wet fruit. The Jewish women are known to
make the fondest parents; and in Duke's-place
there certainly was no lack of fondlings. Inside
almost every parlour a child was either being
nursed or romped with, and some little things
were being tossed nearly to the ceiling, and
caught, screaming with enjoyment, in the jewel-
led hands of the delighted mother. At other
shops might be seen a circle of three or four
women -- some old as if grandmothers, grouped
admiringly round a hook-nosed infant, tickling
it and poking their fingers at it in a frenzy of
affection.
The counters of these shops are generally
Column 2
placed in the open streets like stalls, and the
shop itself is used as a store to keep the stock in.
On these counters are ranged the large matting
baskets, some piled up with dark-brown polished
chestnuts -- shining like a racer's neck -- others
filled with wedge-shaped Brazil-nuts, and rough
hairy cocoa-nuts. There are heaps, too, of
newly-washed walnuts, a few showing their
white crumpled kernels as a sample of their
excellence. Before every doorway are long pot-
bellied boxes of oranges, with the yellow fruit
just peeping between the laths on top, and
lemons -- yet green -- are ranged about in their
paper jackets to ripen in the air.
In front of one store the paving-stones were
soft with the sawdust emptied from the grape-
cases, and the floor of the shop itself was
whitened with the dry powder. Here stood a
man in a long tasselled smoking-cap, puffing
with his bellows at the blue bunches on a tray,
and about him were the boxes with the paper
lids thrown back, and the round sea-green
berries just rising above the sawdust as if
floating in it. Close by, was a group of dark-
eyed women bending over an orange-case, pick-
ing out the rotten from the good fruit, while a
sallow-complexioned girl was busy with her
knife scooping out the damaged parts, until,
what with sawdust and orange-peel, the air
smelt like the pit of a circus.
Nothing could be seen in this strange place
that did not, in some way or another, appertain
to Jewish customs. A woman, with a heavy
gold chain round her neck, went past, carrying
an old green velvet bonnet covered with feathers,
and a fur tippet, that she had either recently
purchased or was about to sell. Another woman,
whose features showed her to be a Gentile, was
hurrying toward the slop-shop in the Minories
with a richly quilted satin-lined coat done up in
her shawl, and the market-basket by her side,
as if the money due for the work were to be
spent directly for housekeeping.
At the corner of Duke's-street was a stall
kept by a Jew, who sold things that are eaten
only by the Hebrews. Here in a yellow pie-
dish were pieces of stewed apples floating in a
thick puce-coloured sauce.
One man that I spoke to told me that he
considered his Sunday morning's work a very
bad one if he did not sell his five or six hundred
bushels of nuts of different kinds. He had
taken 150l. that day of the street-sellers, and
usually sold his 100l. worth of goods in a morn-
ing. Many others did the same as himself. Here
I met with every attention, and was furnished
with some valuable statistical information con-
cerning the street-trade.
by far the greater staple for the street trade,
and, therefore, demand a brief, but still a fuller,
notice than other articles.
Oranges were first sold in the streets at the
Oranges are brought to this country in cases
or boxes, containing from 500 to 900 oranges.
From official tables, it appears that between
250,000,000 and 300,000,000 of oranges and
lemons are now yearly shipped to England.
They are sold wholesale, principally at public
sales, in lots of eight boxes, the price at such
sales varying greatly, according to the supply
and the quality. The supply continues to arrive
from October to August.
Oranges are bought by the retailers in Duke's-
place and in Covent-Garden; but the coster-
mongers nearly all resort to Duke's-place, and
the shopkeepers to Covent-Garden. They are
sold in baskets of 200 or 300; they are also dis-
posed of by the hundred, a half-hundred being
the smallest quantity sold in Duke's-place.
These hundreds, however, number 110, contain-
ing 10 double "hands," a single hand being 5
oranges. The price in December was 2s. 6d., 3s. 6d., and 4s. the hundred. They are rarely
lower than 4s. about Christmas, as there is then
a better demand for them. The damaged oranges
are known as "specks," and the purchaser runs
the risk of specks forming a portion of the con-
tents of a basket, as he is not allowed to empty
it for the examination of the fruit: but some
salesmen agree to change the specks. A month
after Christmas, oranges are generally cheaper,
and become dearer again about May, when there
is a great demand for the supply of the fairs and
races.
Oranges are sold by all classes connected with
the fruit, flower, or vegetable trade of the streets.
The majority of the street-sellers are, however,
women and children, and the great part of these
are Irish. It has been computed that, when
oranges are "at their best" (generally about
Easter), there are 4,000 persons, including stall-
keepers, selling oranges in the metropolis and
its suburbs; while there are generally 3,000 out
of this number "working" oranges -- that is,
hawking them from street to street: of these, 300
attend at the doors of the theatres, saloons, &c.
Many of those "working" the theatres confine
their trade to oranges, while the other dealers
rarely do so, but unite with them the sale of nuts
of some kind. Those who sell only oranges, or
only nuts, are mostly children, and of the poor-
est class. The smallness of the sum required
to provide a stock of oranges (a half-hundred
being 15d. or 18d.), enables the poor, who cannot
raise "stock-money" sufficient to purchase any-
thing else, to trade upon a few oranges.
The regular costers rarely buy oranges until
the spring, except, perhaps, for Sunday after-
noon sale -- though this, as I said before, they
mostly object to. In the spring, however, they
stock their barrows with oranges. One man told
Column 2
me that, four or five years back, he had sold in a
day 2,000 oranges that he picked up as a bargain.
They did not cost him half a farthing each; he
said he "cleared 2l. by the spec." At the same
period he could earn 5s. or 6s. on a Sunday
afternoon by the sale of oranges in the street;
but now he could not earn 2s.
A poor Irishwoman, neither squalid in ap-
pearance nor ragged in dress, though looking
pinched and wretched, gave me the subjoined
account; when I saw her, resting with her
basket of oranges near Coldbath-fields prison,
she told me she almost wished she was inside
of it, but for the "childer." Her history was
one common to her class --
"I was brought over here, sir, when I was a
girl, but my father and mother died two or three
years after. I was in service then, and very
good service I continued in as a maid-of-all-
work, and very kind people I met; yes, indeed,
though I was Irish and a Catholic, and they was
English Protistants. I saved a little money
there, and got married. My husband's a la-
bourer; and when he's in full worruk he can
earn 12s. or 14s. a week, for he's a good hand
and a harrud-worruking man, and we do mid-
dlin' thin. He's out of worruk now, and I'm
forced to thry and sill a few oranges to keep a
bit of life in us, and my husband minds the
childer. Bad as I do, I can do 1d. or 2d. a day
profit betther than him, poor man! for he's tall
and big, and people thinks, if he goes round
with a few oranges, it's just from idleniss; and
the Lorrud above knows he'll always worruk
whin he can. He goes sometimes whin I'm
harrud tired. One of us must stay with the
childer, for the youngist is not three and the
ildest not five. We don't live, we starruve. We
git a few 'taties, and sometimes a plaice. To-
day I've not taken 3d. as yit, sir, and it's past
three. Oh, no, indeed and indeed, thin, I dont
make 9d. a day. We live accordingly, for there's
1s. 3d. a week for rint. I have very little harrut
to go into the public-houses to sill oranges, for
they begins flying out about the Pope and Car-
dinal Wiseman, as if I had anything to do with
it. And that's another reason why I like my
husband to stay at home, and me to go out, be-
cause he's a hasty man, and might get into
throuble. I don't know what will become of us,
if times don't turn."
On calling upon this poor woman on the fol-
lowing day, I found her and her children absent.
The husband had got employment at some dis-
tance, and she had gone to see if she could not
obtain a room 3d. a week cheaper, and lodge
near the place of work.
According to the Board of Trade returns,
there are nearly two hundred millions of
oranges annually imported into this country.
About one-third of these are sold wholesale in
London, and one-fourth of the latter quantity dis-
posed of retail in the streets. The returns I have
procured, touching the London sale, prove that
no less than 15,500,000 are sold yearly by the
street-sellers. The retail price of these may be
The street lemon-trade is now insignificant,
lemons having become a more important article
of commerce since the law required foreign-
bound ships to be provided with lemon-juice.
The street-sale is chiefly in the hands of
the Jews and the Irish. It does not, however.
call for special notice here.
The sellers of foreign hazel nuts are principally women and children, but the stall-keepers, and oftentimes the costermongers, sell them with other "goods." The consumption of them is immense, the annual export from Tarragona being little short of 8,000 tons. They are to be found in every poor shop in London, as well as in the large towns; they are generally to be seen on every street-stall, in every country vil- lage, at every fair, and on every race-ground. The supply is from Gijon and Tarragona. The Gijon nuts are the "Spanish," or "fresh" nuts. They are sold at public sales, in barrels of three bushels each, the price being from 35s. to 40s. The nuts from Tarragona, whence comes the great supply, are known as "Barcelonas," and they are kiln-dried before they are shipped. Hence the Barcelonas will "keep," and the Spanish will not. The Spanish are coloured with the fumes of sulphur, by the Jews in Duke's-place.
It is somewhat remarkable that nuts supply
employment to a number of girls in Spain, and
then yield the means of a scanty subsistence to
a number of girls (with or without parents) in
England.
The prattle and the laughter (according to
Inglis) of the Spanish girls who sort, find no
parallel however among the London girls who
sell the nuts. The appearance of the latter is
often wretched. In the winter months they may
be seen as if stupified with cold, and with the
listlessness, not to say apathy, of those whose
diet is poor in quantity and insufficient in
amount.
Very few costermongers buy nuts (as hazel
nuts are always called) at the public sales -- only
those whose dealings are of a wholesale charac-
ter, and they are anything but regular attendants
at the sales. The street-sellers derive nearly
the whole of their supply from Duke's-place.
The principal times of business are Friday
afternoons and Sunday mornings. Those who
have "capital" buy on the Friday, when they
say they can make 10s. go as far as 12s. on the
Sunday. The "Barcelonas" are from 4½d. to
6d. a quart to the street-sellers. The cob-nuts,
which are the large size, used by the pastry-
cooks for mottos, &c., are 2d. and 2½d. the quart,
but they are generally destitute of a kernel.
A quart contains from 100 to 180 nuts, ac-
cording to the size. The costermongers buy
somewhat largely when nuts are 3d. the quart;
Column 2
they then, and not unfrequently, stock their
barrows with nuts entirely, but 2s. a day is
reckoned excellent earnings at this trade. "It's
the worst living of all, sir," I was told, "on
nuts." The sale in the streets is at the fruit-
stalls, in the public-houses, on board the
steamers, and at the theatre doors. They are
sold by the same class as the oranges, and a
stock may be procured for a smaller sum even
than is required for oranges. By the outlay of
1s. many an Irishwoman can send out her two
or three children with nuts, reserving some for
herself. Seven-eighths of the nuts imported
are sold, I am assured, in the open air.
Some of the costermongers who are to be
found in Battersea-fields, and who attend the
fairs and races, get through 5s. worth of nuts in
a day, but only exceptionally. These men have
a sort of portable shooting-gallery. The cus-
tomer fires a kind of rifle, loaded with a dart,
and according to the number marked on the
centre, or on the encircling rings of a board
which forms the head of the stall, and which
may be struck by the dart, is the number of
nuts payable by the stall-keeper for the half-
penny "fire."
The Brazil nuts, which are now sold largely
in the streets at twelve to sixteen a penny, were
not known in this country as an article of com-
merce before 1824. They are sold by the peck
-- 2s. being the ordinary price -- in Duke's-place.
Coker-nuts -- as they are now generally called,
and indeed "entered" as such at the Custom-
house, and so written by Mr. Mc Culloch, to
distinguish them from cocoa, or the berries
of the cacâo, used for chocolate, etc. -- are
brought from the West Indies, both British
and Spanish, and Brazil. They are used as
dunnage in the sugar ships, being interposed
between the hogsheads, to steady them and
prevent their being flung about. The coker-
nut was introduced into England in 1690. They
are sold at public sales and otherwise, and bring
from 10s. to 14s. per 100. Coker-nuts are now
used at fairs to "top" the sticks.
The costermongers rarely speculate in coker-
nuts now, as the boys will not buy them unless
cut, and it is almost impossible to tell how the
coker-nut will "open." The interior is sold in
halfpenny-worths and penny-worths. These
nuts are often "worked with a drum." There
may be now forty coker-nut men in the street
trade, but not one in ten confines himself to the
article.
A large proportion of the dry or ripe walnuts
sold in the streets is from Bordeaux. They are
sold at public sales, in barrels of three bushels
each, realising 21s. to 25s. a barrel. They are
retailed at from eight to twenty a penny, and
are sold by all classes of street-traders.
A little girl, who looked stunted and wretched,
and who did not know her age (which might be
eleven), told me she was sent out by her mother
with six halfpenny-worth of nuts, and she must
carry back 6d. or she would be beat. She
had no father, and could neither read nor write.
has been carried on I find no means of ascer-
taining precisely, but it is unquestionably one
of the oldest of the public traffics. Before
potato-cans were introduced, the sale of roasted
chestnuts was far greater than it is now.
It is difficult to compute the number of
roasted chestnut-sellers at present in the streets.
It is probable that they outnumber 1,000, for
I noticed that on a cold day almost every street
fruit-seller, man or woman, had roasted chest-
nuts for sale.
Sometimes the chestnuts are roasted in the
streets, in a huge iron apparatus, made ex-
presly for the purpose, and capable of cooking
perhaps a bushel at a time -- but these are to be
found solely at the street-markets.
The ordinary street apparatus for roasting
chestnuts is simple. A round pan, with a few
holes punched in it, costing 3d. or 4d. in a
marine-store shop, has burning charcoal within
it, and is surmounted by a second pan, or kind
of lid, containing chestnuts, which are thus kept
hot. During my inquiry, chestnuts were dear.
"People don't care," I was told, "whether
chestnuts is three and six, as they are now, or
one and six a peck, as I hope they will be
afore long; they wants the same pennyworths."
Chestnuts are generally bought wholesale in
Duke's-place, on the Sunday mornings, for
street sale; but some street-dealers buy them of
those costermongers, whose means enable them
"to lay in" a quantity. The retail customers
are, for the most part, boys and girls, or a few
labourers or street people. The usual price is
sixteen a penny.
Roasted apples used to be vended in the
streets, and often along with roasted chestnuts,
but it is a trade which has now almost entirely
disappeared, and its disappearance is attributed
to the prevalence of potato cans.
I had the following account from a woman,
apparently between sixty and seventy, though
she said she was only about fifty. What she
Column 2
was in her youth, she said, she neither knew
nor cared. At any rate she was unwilling to
converse about it. I found her statement as to
chestnuts corroborated: --
"The trade's nothing to what it was, sir," she
said. "Why when the hackney coaches was in
the streets, I've often sold 2s. worth of a night
at a time, for a relish, to the hackneymen that
was waiting their turn over their beer. Six and
eight a penny was enough then; now people
must have sixteen; though I pays 3s. a peck,
and to get them at that's a favour. I could
make my good 12s. a week on roasted chestnuts
and apples, and as much on other things in
them days, but I'm half-starved now. There'll
never be such times again. People didn't want
to cut one another's throats in the street busi-
ness then. O, I don't know anything about how
long ago, or what year -- years is nothing to me
-- but I only know that it was so. I got a
penny a piece then for my roasted apples, and
a halfpenny for sugar to them. I could live
then. Roasted apples was reckoned good for
the tooth-ache in them days, but, people
change so, they aren't now. I don't know
what I make now in chestnuts and apples,
which is all I sells -- perhaps 5s. a week. My
rent's 1s. 3d. a week. I lives on a bit of fish,
or whatever I can get, and that's all about it."
The absolute quantity of oranges, lemons, and
nuts sold annually in the London streets is as
follows:
| Oranges | 15,400,000 |
| Lemons | 154,000 |
| Spanish and Barcelona nuts | 24,000 bushels |
| Brazil do | 3,000 " |
| Chestnuts | 6,500 " |
| Walnuts | 24,000 " |
| Coker-nuts | 400,000 nuts |
The sellers of "dry fruit" cannot be described as a class, for, with the exception of one old couple, none that I know of confine themselves to its sale, but resort to it merely when the season prevents their dealing in "green fruit" or vegetables. I have already specified what in commerce is distinguished as "dry fruit," but its classification among the costers is somewhat narrowed.
The dry-fruit sellers derive their supplies
partly from Duke's-place, partly from Pudding-
lane, but perhaps principally from the costers
concerning whom I have spoken, who buy whole-
sale at the markets and elsewhere, and who will
"clear out a grocer," or buy such figs, &c. as a
leading tradesman will not allow to be sent, or
offered, to his regular customers, although, per-
haps, some of the articles are tolerably good. Or
else the dry-fruit men buy a damaged lot of a
broker or grocer, and pick out all that is eatable,
or rather saleable.
The sale of dry fruit is unpopular among the
costermongers. Despite their utmost pains, they
cannot give to figs, or raisins, or currants, which
may be old and stale, anything of the bloom and
It is impossible to give the average price of
dry fruit to the costermonger. The quality
and the "harvest" affect the price materially
in the regular trade.
The rule which I am informed the coster-
monger, who sometimes "works" a barrow of
dried fruit, observes, is this: he will aim at cent.
per cent., and, to accomplish it, "slang" weights
are not unfrequently used. The stale fruit is
sold by the grocers, and the damaged fruit by
the warehouses to the costers, at from a half, but
much more frequently a fourth to a twentieth of
its prime cost. The principal street-purchasers
are boys.
A dry-fruit seller gave me the following
account: -- By "half profits" he meant cent. per
cent., or, in other words, that the money he re-
ceived for his stock was half of it cost price and
half profit.
"I sell dry fruit, sir, in February and
March, because I must be doing something,
and green fruit's not my money then. It's
a poor trade. I've sold figs at 1d. a pound,
-- no, sir, not slang the time I mean -- and I
could hardly make 1s. a day at it, though
it was half profits. Our customers look at
them quite particler. `Let's see the other
side of them figs,' the boys'll say, and then
they'll out with -- `I say, master, d'you see any
green about me?' Dates I can hardly get off
at all, no! -- not if they was as cheap as potatoes,
or cheaper. I've been asked by women if dates
was good in dumplings? I've sometimes said
`yes,' though I knew nothing at all about them.
They're foreign. I can't say where they're
grown. Almonds and raisins goes off best with
us. I don't sell them by weight, but makes
them up in ha'penny or penny lots. There's
two things, you see, and one helps off the other.
Raisins is dry grapes, I've heard. I've sold
grapes before they was dried, at 1d. and 2d. the
pound. I didn't do no good in any of 'em;
1s. a day on 'em was the topper, for all the half
profits. I'll not touch 'em again if I aint
forced."
There are a few costers who sell tolerable
dry fruit, but not to any extent.
The old couple I have alluded to stand all
the year round at the corner of a street running
into a great city thoroughfare. They are sup-
plied with their fruit, I am told, through the
friendliness of a grocer who charges no profit,
and sometimes makes a sacrifice for their benefit.
As I was told that this old couple would not
like inquiries to be made of them, I at once
desisted.
There are sometimes twenty costermongers
selling nothing but dry fruit, but more fre-
quently only ten, and sometimes only five;
while, perhaps, from 300 to 400 sell a few
figs, &c., with other things, such as late apples,
Column 2
the dry fruit being then used "just as a fill
up."
According to the returns before given, the
gross quantity of dry fruit disposed of yearly in
the streets of London may be stated as follows:
7,000 lbs. of shell almonds,
37,800 " raisins,
24,300 " figs,
4,200 " prunes.
The seller of fruit in the streets confines his traffic far more closely to fruit, than does the vegetable-dealer to vegetables. Within these three or four years many street-traders sell only fruit the year through; but the purveyor of vegetables now usually sells fish with his cab- bages, turnips, cauliflowers, or other garden stuff. The fish that he carries out on his round generally consists of soles, mackerel, or fresh or salt herrings. This combination of the street- green-grocer and street-fishmonger is called a general dealer."
The general dealers are usually accompanied
by boys (as I have elsewhere shown), and some-
times by their wives. If a woman be a general
dealer, she is mostly to be found at a stall or
standing, and not "going a round."
The general dealer "works" everything
through the season. He generally begins the
year with sprats or plaice: then he deals in
soles until the month of May. After this he
takes to mackerel, haddocks, or red herrings.
Next he trades in strawberries or raspberries.
From these he will turn to green and ripe goose-
berries; thence he will go to cherries; from
cherries he will change to red or white cur-
rants; from them to plums or green-gages, and
from them again to apples and pears, and dam-
sons. After these he mostly "works" a few
vegetables, and continues with them until the
fish season begins again. Some general dealers
occasionally trade in sweetmeats, but this is not
usual, and is looked down upon by the "trade."
"I am a general dealer," said one of the
better class; "my missis is in the same line as
myself, and sells everything that I do (barring
green stuff.) She follows me always in what
I sell. She has a stall, and sits at the corner of
the street. I have got three children. The
eldest is ten, and goes out with me to call my
goods for me. I have had inflammation in the
lungs, and when I call my goods for a little
while my voice leaves me. My missis is lame.
She fell down a cellar, when a child, and injured
her hip. Last October twelvemonth I was laid
up with cold, which settled on my lungs, and
laid me in my bed for a month. My missis kept
me all that time. She was `working' fresh
herrings; and if it hadn't been for her we must
all have gone into the workhouse. We are doing
very badly now. I have no work to do. I have
no stock-money to work with, and I object to
pay 1s. 6d. a week for the loan of 10s. Once
I gave a man 1s. 6d. a week for ten months for
the loan of 10s., and that nearly did me up. I
"Why, sir," said another vegetable-dealer, who
was a robust-looking young man, very clean in his
person, and dressed in costermonger corduroy,
"I can hardly say what my business is worth to
me, for I'm no scholard. I was brought up to
the business by my mother. I've a middling
connection, and perhaps clear 3s. a day, every
fine day, or 15s. or 16s. a week; but out of that
there's my donkey to keep, which I suppose costs
6d. a day, that's seven sixpences off. Wet or
fine, she must be fed, in coorse. So must I;
but I've only myself to keep at present, and I
hire a lad when I want one. I work my own
trap. Then things is so uncertain. Why, now,
look here, sir. Last Friday, I think it was --
but that don't matter, for it often happens -- fresh
herrings was 4s. the 500 in the morning, and
1s. 6d. at night, so many had come in. I buy
at Billingsgate-market, and sometimes of a
large shopkeeper, and at Covent-garden and the
Borough. If I lay out 7s. in a nice lot of cab-
bages, I may sell them for 10s. 6d., or if it isn't
a lucky day with me for 8s., or less. Sometimes
people won't buy, as if the cholera was in the
cabbages. Then turnips isn't such good sale yet,
but they may be soon, for winter's best for them.
There's more bilings then than there's roastings,
I think. People like broth in cold weather. I
buy turnips by the `tally.' A tally's five dozen
bunches. There's no confinement of the number
to a bunch; it's by their size; I've known
twelve, and I've known twice that. I sell three
parts of the turnips at 1d. a bunch, and the other
part at 1½d. If I get them at 3s. 6d. the tally I
do well on turnips. I go the same rounds pretty
regularly every day, or almost every day. I don't
object to wet weather so much, because women
don't like to stir out then, and so they'll buy of
me as I pass. Carrots I do little in; they're dear,
but they'll be cheaper in a month or two. They
always are. I don't work on Sundays. If I
did, I'd get a jacketing. Our chaps would say:
`Well, you are a scurf. You have a round; give
another man a Sunday chance.' A gentleman
once said to me, when I was obligated to work on
a Sunday: `Why don't you leave it off, when
you know it ain't right?' `Well, sir,' said I,
Column 2
and he spoke very kind to me, `well, sir, I'm
working for my dinner, and if you'll give me 4s. or 3s. 6d., I'll tumble to your notion and drop it,
and I'll give you these here cowcumbers,' (I was
working cowcumbers at that time) `to do what
you like with, and they cost me half-a-crown.'
In potatoes I don't do a great deal, and it's no
great trade. If I did, I should buy at the
warehouses in Tooley-street, where they are
sold in sacks of 1 cwt.; 150 lbs. and 200 lbs.,
at 2s. 9d. and 3s. the cwt. I sell mine, tidy
good, at 3 pound 2d., and a halfpenny a pound,
but as I don't do much, not a bushel a day, I buy
at market by the bushel at from 1s. 6d. to 2s. I
never uses slangs. I sold three times as many
potatoes as I do now four years back. I don't
know why, 'cept it be that the rot set people again
them, and their taste's gone another way. I sell
a few more greens than I did, but not many.
Spinach I don't do only a little in it. Celery
I'm seldom able to get rid on. It's more women's
work. Ing-uns the same."
I may add that I found the class, who con-
fined their business principally to the sale of
vegetables, the dullest of all the costermongers.
Any man may labour to make 1s. 6d. of cab-
bages or turnips, which cost him 1s., when the
calculation as to the relative proportion of mea-
sures, &c. is beyond his comprehension.
Pursuing the same mode of calculation as has
been heretofore adopted, we find that the abso-
lute quantity of vegetables sold in the London
streets by the costers is as follows:
| 20,700,000 | lbs. of potatoes (home grown) |
| 39,800,000 | " (foreign) |
| 23,760,133 | cabbages, |
| 3,264,800 | turnips, |
| 616,666 | junks of turnip tops, |
| 601,000 | carrots, |
| 567,300 | brocoli and cauliflowers, |
| 219,000 | bushels of peas, |
| 8,893 | " beans, |
| 22,110 | " french beans, |
| 25,608 | dozens of vegetable marrows, |
| 489 | dozen bundles of asparagus, |
| 9,120 | " rhubarb, |
| 4,350 | " celery, |
| 561,600 | lettuces, |
| 13,291 | dozen hands of radishes, |
| 499,533 | bushels of onions, |
| 23,600 | dozen bunches of spring onions, |
| 10,920 | bushels of cucumbers, |
| 3,290 | dozen bunches of herbs. |
uncommon among the costermongers. These
aristocratic sellers, who are not one in twenty,
or perhaps in twenty-five, of the whole body of
costermongers, are generally men of superior
manners and better dressed than their brethren.
The following narrative, given to me by one of
the body, shows the nature of the trade: --
"It depends a good deal upon the season and
the price, as to what I begin with in the ` haris-
tocratic' way. My rounds are always in the
"Perhaps I begin the season in the haristo-
cratic way, with early lettuces for salads. I
carry my goods in handsome baskets, and some-
times with a boy, or a boy and a girl, to help
me. I buy my lettuces by the score (of heads)
when first in, at 1s. 6d., and sell them at 1½d. each, which is 1s. profit on a score. I have sold
twenty, and I once sold thirty score, that way
in a day. The profit on the thirty was 2l. 5s., but out of that I had to pay three boys, for I
took three with me, and our expenses was 7s. But you must consider, sir, that this is a pre-
carious trade. Such goods are delicate, and
spoil if they don't go off. I give credit some-
times, if anybody I know says he has no change.
I never lost nothing
"Then there's grass (asparagus), and that's
often good money. I buy all mine at Covent-
garden, where it's sold in bundles, according to
the earliness of the season, at from 5s. to 1s., containing from six to ten dozen squibs (heads).
These you have to take home, untie, cut off the
scraggy ends, trim, and scrape, and make them
level. Children help me to do this in the court
where I live. I give them a few ha'pence,
though they're eager enough to do it for nothing
but the fun. I've had 10s. worth made ready
in half an hour.
"Well, now, sir, about grass, there's not a
coster in London, I'm sure, ever tasted it; and
how it's eaten puzzles us." [I explained the
manner in which asparagus was brought to
table.] "That's the ticket, is it, sir? Well, I
was once at the Surrey, and there was some
macaroni eaten on the stage, and I thought
grass was eaten in the same way, perhaps;
swallowed like one o'clock," [rather a favourite
comparison among the costers.]
"I have the grass -- it's always called, when
cried in the streets, `Spar-row gra-ass' -- tied up
in bundles of a dozen, twelve to a dozen, or one
over, and for these I never expect less than 6d. For a three or four dozen lot, in a neat sieve, I
ask 2s. 6d., and never take less than 1s. 3d. I
once walked thirty-five miles with grass, and
have oft enough been thirty miles. I made 7s. or 8s. a day by it, and next day or two perhaps
nothing, or may-be had but one customer. I've
Column 2
sold half-crown lots, on a Saturday night, for a
sixpence; and it was sold some time back at
2d. a bundle, in the New Cut, to poor people.
I dare say some as bought it had been maid-
servants and understood it. I've raffled 5s. worth of grass in the parlour of a respectable
country inn of an evening.
"The costers generally buy new potatoes at
4s. to 5s. the bushel, and cry them at ` three-
pound-tuppence;' but I've given 7s. a bushel,
for choice and early, and sold them at 2d. a
pound. It's no great trade, for the bushel may
weigh only 50 lb., and at 2d. a pound that's
only 8s. 4d. The schools don't buy at all until
they're 1d. the pound, and don't buy in any
quantity until they're 1s. 6d. the 25 lb. One
day a school 'stonished me by giving me 2s. 6d. for 25 lb., which is the general weight of the
half bushel. Perhaps the master had taken a
drop of something short that morning. The
schools are dreadful screws, to be sure.
"Green peas, early ones, I don't buy when
they first come in, for then they're very dear, but
when they're 4s. or 3s. 6d. a bushel, and that's
pretty soon. I can make five pecks of a bushel.
Schools don't touch peas `till they're 2s. a bushel.
"Cowcumbers were an aristocratic sale. Four
or five years ago they were looked upon, when
first in, and with a beautiful bloom upon them,
as the finest possible relish. But the cholera
came in 1849, and everybody -- 'specially the
women -- thought the cholera was in cowcumbers,
and I've known cases, foreign and English, sent
from the Borough Market for manure.
"I sell a good many mushrooms. I some-
times can pick up a cheap lot at Covent Garden.
I make them up in neat sieves of three dozen to
eight dozen according to size, and I have sold
them at 4s. the sieve, and made half that on
each sieve I sold. They are down to 1s. or 1s. 6d. a sieve very soon.
"Green walnuts for pickling I sell a quantity
of. One day I sold 20s. worth -- half profit -- I
got them so cheap, but that was an exception.
I sold them cheap too. One lady has bought a
bushel and a half at a time. For walnut
catsup the refuse of the walnut is used; it's
picked up in the court, where I've got children
or poor fellows for a few ha'pence or a pint of
beer to help me to peel the walnuts."
The sale of onions in the streets is immense. They are now sold at the markets at an average of 2s. a bushel. Two years ago they were 1s., and they have been 4s. and up to 7s. the bushel. They are now twisted into "ropes" for street sale. The ropes are of straw, into which the roots are platted, and secured firmly enough, so that the ropes can be hung up; these have superseded the netted onions, formerly sold by the Jew boys. The plaiting, or twisting, is done rapidly by the women, and a straw-bonnet-maker described it to me as somewhat after the mode of her trade, only that the top, or projecting portion of the stem of the onion, was twisted within the straw,
An Irishwoman, apparently of thirty-five, but
in all probability younger -- she did not know
her age -- gave me the following account. Her
face, with its strongly-marked Irish features, was
almost purpled from constant exposure to the
weather. She was a teetotaller. She was com-
municative and garrulous, even beyond the
average of her countrywomen. She was decently
clad, had been in London fifteen years (she
thought) having been brought from Ireland, viâ Bristol, by her parents (both dead). She herself
was a widow, her husband, "a bricklayer" she
called him (probably a bricklayer's labourer),
having died of the cholera in 1849. I take up
her statement from that period:
"Yes, indeed, sir, he died -- the heavins be his
bed! -- and he was prepared by Father M -- .
We had our thrials togither, but sore's been the
cross and heavy the burthin since it plased God
to call him. Thin, there's the two childer,
Biddy and Ned. They'll be tin and they'll be
eight come their next burreth-days, 'plase the
Lorrud. They can hilp me now, they can. They
sells ing-uns as well. I ropes 'em for 'em. How
is ing-uns roped? Shure, thin -- but it's not
mocking me your 'onnur is -- shure, thin, a gin-
tleman like you, that can write like a horrus a-
galloping, and perhaps is as larned as a praste,
glory be to God! must know how to rope ing-uns!
Poor people can do it. Some say it's a sacrit,
but that's all a say, or there couldn't be so many
ropes a-silling. I buy the sthraw at a sthraw-
daler's; twopinn'orth at a time; that'll make
six or twilve ropes, according to what they are,
sixpinny or what. It's as sthraight as it can be
grown, the sthraw, that it is indeed. Och, sir,
we've had many's the black day, me and the
childer, poor things; it's thim I care about, but
-- God's name be praised! -- we've got on some-
how. Another poor woman -- she's a widdur too,
hilp her! -- and me has a 2s. room for the two of
us. We've our siprate furnithur. She has only
hersilf, but is fond of the childer, as you or your
ady -- bliss her! if you've got one -- might be, if
you was with them. I can read a little mysilf,
at laste I could oncte, and I gits them a bit o'
Column 2
schoolin' now and thin, whin I can, of an evenin
mostly. I can't write a letther; I wish I could.
Shure, thin, sir, I'll tell you the thruth -- we does
best on ing-uns. Oranges is nixt, and nuts isn't
near so good. The three of us now makes 1s. and sometimes 1s. 6d. a day, and that's grand
doin's. We may sill bechuxt us from two to
three dozin ropes a day. I'm quick at roping
the ing-uns. I never noted how many ropes an
hour. I buy them of a thradesman, an honist
gintleman, I know, and I see him at mass ivery
Sunday, and he gives me as many as he can for
1s. or what it is. We has 1d., plase God, on ivery
6d.; yis, sir, perhaps more sometimes. I'll not
tell your 'onnur a bit of a lie. And so we now
get a nice bit o' fish, with a bit of liver on a
Sunday. I sell to the thradesmen, and the lodgers
of them, about here (Tottenham-court-road), and
in many other parruts, for we thravels a dale.
The childer always goes the same round. We
follows one another. I've sould in the sthreets
ever since I've been in this counthry."
The greatest sum of money expended by the
poor upon any vegetable (after potatoes) is spent
upon onions -- 99,900l. being annually devoted
to the purchase of that article. To those who
know the habits of the poor, this will appear in
no way singular -- a piece of bread and an onion
being to the English labourer what bread and
an apple or a bunch of grapes is to the French
peasant -- often his dinner.
I use the old phrase, pot-herbs, for such pro-
ductions as sage, thyme, mint, parsley, sweet
marjoram, fennel, (though the last is rarely sold
by the street-people), &c.; but "herbs" is the
usual term. More herbs, such as agrimony,
balm (balsam), wormwood, tansy, &c., used to
be sold in the streets. These were often used for
"teas," medicinally perhaps, except tansy, which,
being a strong aromatic, was used to flavour
puddings. Wormwood, too, was often bought to
throw amongst woollen fabrics, as a protective
against the attack of moths.
The street herb-trade is now almost entirely
in the hands of Irishwomen, and is generally
carried on during the autumn and winter at
stalls. With it, is most commonly united the
sale of celery. The herbs are sold at the several
markets, usually in shilling lots, but a quarter
of a shilling lot may be purchased. The Irish-
woman pursues a simple method of business.
What has cost her 1s. she divides into 24 lots,
each of 1d., or she will sell half of a lot for a
halfpenny. An Irishwoman said to me:
"Thrade isn't good, sir; it falls and it falls.
I don't sell so many herrubs or so much ciliry
as I did whin mate was higher. Poor people thin,
I've often been said it, used to buy bones and
bile them for broth with ciliry and the beautiful
herrubs. Now they buys a bit of mate and ates
it without brothing. It's good one way and it's
bad another. Only last Saturday night my hus-
band -- and a good husband he's to me, though
he is a London man, for he knows how to make
To complete the present account of the coster-
monger's trade, we must now estimate the money
value of the fruit and vegetables disposed of by
them throughout the year. The money annually
spent in fish by the humbler portion of the me-
tropolitan population comes to, as we have seen,
very nearly one million five hundred thousand
pounds sterling -- the sum laid out in fruit and
vegetables we shall find is but little more than a
third of this amount.
| 377,500 bushels of apples, at six a penny or 4s. per bush. (288 to the bushel) | \cp\75,500 |
| 193,700 bushels of pears, at 5s. per bushel | 48,400 |
| 1,215,360 lbs. of cherries, at 2d. per lb. | 10,000 |
| 11,700 bushels of plums, at 1d. per half pint | 6,270 |
| 100 bushels of greengages, at 1½d. per half pint | 80 |
| 548 bushels of damsons, at 1½d. per half pint | 430 |
| 2,450 bushels of bullace, at 1½d. per half pint | 1,960 |
| 207,500 bushels of gooseberries, at 3d. per quart | 83,000 |
| 85,500 sieves of red currants, at 1d. per pint (three half- sieves to the bushel) | 15,300 |
| 13,500 sieves of black currants, at 1d. per pint (three half- sieves to the bushel) | 2,400 |
| 3,000 sieves of white currants, at 1d. per pint (three half- sieves to the bushel) | 530 |
| 763,750 pottles of strawberries, at 2d. per pottle | 6,360 |
| 1,760 pottles of raspberries, at 6d. per pottle | 40 |
| 30,485 pottles of mulberries, at 6d. per pottle | 760 |
| 6,000 bushels of hazel nuts, at ¾d. per half pint | 2,400 |
| 17,280 lbs. of filberts, at 3d. per lb. | 200 |
| 26,563 lbs. of grapes, at 4d. per lb. | 440 |
| 20,000 pine apples, at 6d. each | 500 |
| col | 15,400,000 oranges, at two for 1d. #32,000 |
| 154,000 lemons, at two for 1d. | 320 |
| 24,000 bushels of Spanish and Barcelona nuts, at 6d. per quart | 19,200 |
| 3,000 bushels of Brazil nuts (1500 to the bushel), at fifteen for 1d. | \cp\1,250 |
| 6,500 bushels of chestnuts (1500 to the bushel), at fifteen for 1d. | 2,700 |
| 24,000 bushels of walnuts (1750 to the bushel), at ten for 1d. | 17,500 |
| 400,000 coker-nuts, at 3d. each | 5,000 |
| Total expended yearly in green fruit | \cp\333,420 |
| 7,000 lbs. of shell almonds, at 20 a penny (320 to the lb.) | \cp\460 |
| 37,800 lbs. of raisins, at 2d. per lb. | 300 |
| 24,300 lbs. of figs, at 2d. per lb. | 200 |
| 4,800 lbs. of prunes, at 2d. per lb. | 40 |
| Total expended yearly on dry fruit | \cp\1,000 |
| 60,500,000 lbs. of potatoes, at 5lbs. for 2d. | \cp\100,800 |
| 23,760,000 cabbages, at ½d. each | 49,500 |
| 3,264,800 turnips, at 1½d. per doz. | 1,700 |
| 601,000 carrots, at 2½d. per doz. | 520 |
| 567,300 brocoli and cauliflowers, at 1d. per head | 2,360 |
| 616,666 junks of turnip tops, at 4d. per junk | 10,270 |
| 219,000 bushels of peas, at 1s. 6d. per bushel | 16,420 |
| 8,890 bushels of beans, at 1s. 6d. per bushel | 660 |
| 22,110 bushels of French beans, at 6d. per peck, or 2s. per bushel | 2,210 |
| 25,608 vegetable marrows, at ½d. each | 50 |
| 489 dozen bundles of aspara- gus, at 2s. 6d. per bundle (4d. or 6d. a doz. heads) | 730 |
| 9,120 dozen bundles of rhubarb, at 2s. 6d. per doz | 1,140 |
| 4,350 dozen bundles of celery, at 3d. per bundle | 650 |
| 561,602 lettuces, at 3 a penny | 780 |
| 13,291 dozen hands of radishes, at 3 bunches for 1d., and 6 bunches to the hand | 1,330 |
| 499,530 bushels of onions, at 4s. per bushel | 99,900 |
| 10,920 bushels of cucumbers, at 1d. each (60 to the bush.) | 2,730 |
| 3,290 dozen bundles of herbs, at 3d. a bundle | 490 |
| Total expended yearly in vegetables | \cp\292,240 |
Putting the above sums together we have the
following aggregate result: --
| Expended yearly in green fruit | \cp\333,420 |
| Expended yearly in dry fruit | 1,000 |
| Expended yearly in vegetables | 292,000 |
| Gross sum taken annually by the Lodon costermongers for fruit and vegetables | \cp\626,420 |
Then adding the above to the gross amount
received by the street-sellers of fish, which
we have before seen comes to as much as
£1,460,850, we have for the annual income of
the London costermongers no less a sum than
£2,087,270.
Thus far we have dealt only with the itinerant dealers in fish, fruit, or vegetables; but there are still a large class of street-sellers, who obtain a living by the sale of the same articles at some fixed locality in the public thoroughfares; and as these differ from the others in certain points, they demand a short special notice here. First, as to the number of stalls in the streets of Lon- don, I caused personal observations to be made; and in a walk of 46 miles, 632 stalls were counted, which is at the rate of very nearly 14 to the mile. This, too, was in bad weather, -- was not on a Saturday night, -- and at a season when the fruit-sellers all declare that "things is dull." The routes taken in this inquiry were: -- No. 1, from Vauxhall to Hatton-garden; No. 2, from Baker-street to Bermondsey; No. 3, from Blackwall to Brompton; No. 4, from the Hackney-road to the Edgeware-road. I give the results.
| F. | FR. | V. | M. | T. | |
| No. 1 | 9 | 28 | 5 | 7 | 49 |
| " 2 | 37 | 50 | 4 | 14 | 105 |
| " 3 | 90 | 153 | 30 | 40 | 313 |
| " 4 | 75 | 52 | 23 | 15 | 165 |
| 211 | 283 | 62 | 76 | 632 |
F. denotes fish-stalls; Fr. fruit-stalls; V.
vegetable-stalls; M. miscellaneous; and T.
presents the total:
The miscellaneous stalls include peas-soup,
pickled whelks, sweetmeats, toys, tin-ware,
elder-wine, and jewellery stands. Of these, the
toy-stalls were found to be the most numerous;
sweetmeats the next; tin-ware the next; while
the elder-wine stalls were least numerous.
Some of the results indicate, curiously enough,
the character of the locality. Thus, in Fleet-
street there were 3, in the Haymarket 5, in
Regent-street 6, and in Piccadilly 14 fruit-
stalls, and no fish-stalls -- these streets not
being resorted to by the poor, to whom fruit
is a luxury, but fish a necessity. In the
Strand were 17 fruit and 2 fish-stalls; and in
Drury-lane were 8 stalls of fish to 6 of fruit.
On the other hand, there were in Ratcliffe-high-
way, 38 fish and 23 fruit-stalls; in Rosemary-
lane, 13 fish and 8 fruit-stalls; in Shoreditch,
Column 2
28 fish and 13 fruit-stalls; and in Bethnal-
green Road (the poorest district of all), 14 of
the fish, and but 3 of the fruit stalls. In some
places, the numbers were equal, or nearly so;
as in the Minories, for instance, the City-road,
the New-road, Goodge-street, Tottenham-court
Road, and the Camberwell-road; while in
Smithfield were 5, and in Cow-cross 2 fish-
stalls, and no fruit-stalls at all. In this enu-
meration the street-markets of Leather-lane,
the New Cut, the Brill, &c., are not included.
The result of this survey of the principal
London thoroughfares is that in the mid-route (viz., from Brompton, along Piccadilly, the
Strand, Fleet-street, and so viâ the Commercial-
road to Blackwall), there are twice as many
stalls as in the great northern thoroughfare (that
is to say, from the Edgeware-road, along the
New-road, to the Hackney-road); the latter
route, however, has more than one-third as many
stalls as route No. 2, and that again more than
double the number of route No. 1. Hence it
appears that the more frequented the thorough-
fare, the greater the quantity of street-stalls.
The number of miles of streets contained
within the inner police district of the metropolis,
are estimated by the authorities at 2,000 ( in-
cluding the city), and assuming that there are on
an average only four stalls to the mile throughout
London, we have thus a grand total of 8,000 fish,
fruit, vegetable, and other stalls dispersed
throughout the capital.
Concerning the character of the stalls at the
street-markets, the following observations have
been made: -- At the New-cut there were, be-
fore the removals, between the hours of eight
and ten on a Saturday evening, ranged along
the kerb-stone on the north side of the road,
beginning at Broad-wall to Marsh-gate (a dis-
tance of nearly half-a-mile), a dense line of
"pitches" -- at 77 of which were vegetables for
sale, at 40 fruit, 25 fish, 22 boots and shoes, 14
eatables, consisting of cakes and pies, hot eels,
baked potatoes, and boiled whelks; 10 dealt in
nightcaps, lace, ladies' collars, artificial flowers,
silk and straw bonnets; 10 in tinware -- such as
saucepans, tea-kettles, and Dutch-ovens; 9 in
crockery and glass, 7 in brooms and brushes, 5
in poultry and rabbits, 6 in paper, books, songs,
and almanacs; and about 60 in sundries.
The stalls occupied by costermongers for the sale of fish, fruit, vegetables, &c., are chiefly constructed of a double cross-trestle or moveable frame, or else of two trestles, each with three legs, upon which is laid a long deal board, or tray. Some of the stalls consist merely of a few boards resting upon two baskets, or upon two herring- barrels. The fish-stalls are mostly covered with paper -- generally old newspapers or periodicals -- but some of the street-fishmongers, instead of using paper to display their fish upon, have intro- duced a thin marble slab, which gives the stall a cleaner, and, what they consider a high attri- bute, a "respectable" appearance.
Most of the fruit-stalls are, in the winter
time, fitted up with an apparatus for roasting
apples and chestnuts; this generally consists of
an old saucepan with a fire inside; and the
woman who vends them, huddled up in her old
faded shawl or cloak, often presents a picturesque
appearance, in the early evening, or in a fog,
with the gleam of the fire lighting up her half
somnolent figure. Within the last two or three
years, however, there has been so large a business
carried on in roasted chestnuts, that it has
become a distinct street-trade, and the vendors
have provided themselves with an iron apparatus,
large enough to roast nearly half a bushel at a
time. At the present time, however, the larger
apparatus is less common in the streets, and
more frequent in the shops, than in the previous
winter.
There are, moreover, peculiar kinds of stalls --
such as the hot eels and hot peas-soup stalls,
having tin oval pots, with a small chafing-dish
containing a charcoal fire underneath each, to
keep the eels or soup hot. The early breakfast
stall has two capacious tin cans filled with tea or
coffee, kept hot by the means before described,
and some are lighted up by two or three large
oil-lamps; the majority of these stalls, in the
winter time, are sheltered from the wind by a
screen made out of an old clothes horse covered
with tarpaulin. The cough-drop stand, with its
distilling apparatus, the tin worm curling nearly
the whole length of the tray, has but lately been
introduced. The nut-stall is fitted up with a
target at the back of it. The ginger-beer stand
may be seen in almost every street, with its
French-polished mahogany frame and bright
polished taps, and its foot-bath-shaped reservoir
of water, to cleanse the glasses. The hot elder
wine stand, with its bright brass urns, is equally
popular.
The sellers of plum-pudding, "cake, a penny
a slice," sweetmeats, cough-drops, pin-cushions,
jewellery, chimney ornaments, tea and table-
spoons, make use of a table covered over, some
with old newspapers, or a piece of oil-cloth,
upon which are exposed their articles for sale.
Such is the usual character of the street-
stalls. There are, however, "stands" or "cans"
peculiar to certain branches of the street-trade.
The most important of these, such as the baked-
Column 2
potatoe can, and the meat-pie stand, I have
before described, p. 27.
The other means adopted by the street-sellers
for the exhibition of their various goods at
certain "pitches" or fixed localities are as
follows. Straw bonnets, boys' caps, women's
caps, and prints, are generally arranged for sale
in large umbrellas, placed "upside down."
Haberdashery, with rolls of ribbons, edgings,
and lace, some street-sellers display on a stall;
whilst others have a board at the edge of the
pavement, and expose their wares upon it as
tastefully as they can. Old shoes, patched up
and well blacked, ready for the purchaser's feet,
and tin ware, are often ranged upon the ground, or,
where the stock is small, a stall or table is used.
Many stationary street-sellers use merely
baskets, or trays, either supported in their hand,
or on their arm, or else they are strapped round
their loins, or suspended round their necks.
These are mostly fruit-women, watercress, black-
ing, congreves, sheep's-trotters, and ham-sand-
wich sellers.
Many stationary street-sellers stand on or near
the bridges; others near the steam-packet wharfs
or the railway terminuses; a great number of
them take their pitch at the entrance to a court,
or at the corners of streets; and stall-keepers
with oysters stand opposite the doors of public-
houses.
It is customary for a street-seller who wants
to "pitch" in a new locality to solicit the leave
of the housekeeper, opposite whose premises he
desires to place his stall. Such leave obtained,
no other course is necessary.
I had the following statement from a woman who has "kept a stall" in Marylebone, at the corner of a street, which she calls "my corner," for 38 years. I was referred to her as a curious type of the class of stall-keepers, and on my visit, found her daughter at the "pitch." This daughter had all the eloquence which is attrac- tive in a street-seller, and so, I found, had her mother when she joined us. They are profuse in blessings; and on a bystander observing, when he heard the name of these street-sellers, that a jockey of that name had won the Derby lately, the daughter exclaimed, "To be sure he did; he's my own uncle's relation, and what a lot of money came into the family! Bless God for all things, and bless every body! Walnuts, sir, walnuts, a penny a dozen! Wouldn't give you a bad one for the world, which is a great thing for a poor 'oman for to offer to do." The daughter was dressed in a drab great-coat, which covered her whole person. When I saw the mother, she carried a similar great-coat, as she was on her way to the stall; and she used it as ladies do their muffs, burying her hands in it. The mother's dark-coloured old clothes seemed, to borrow a description from Sir Walter Scott, flung on with a pitchfork. These two women were at first very suspicious, and could not be made to understand my object in questioning
"Well, sir," she began, "what is it that you
want of me? Do I owe you anything? There's
half-pay officers about here for no good; what is
it you want? Hold your tongue, you young fool,"
(to her daughter, who was beginning to speak;)
"what do you know about it?" [On my satis-
fying her that I had no desire to injure her, she
continued, to say after spitting, a common prac-
tice with her class, on a piece of money, "for
luck,"] "Certainly, sir, that's very proper and
good. Aye, I've seen the world -- the town
world and the country. I don't know where I
was born; never mind about that -- it's nothing
to nobody. I don't know nothing about my
father and mother; but I know that afore I
was eleven I went through the country with
my missis. She was a smuggler. I didn't
know then what smuggling was -- bless you, sir,
I didn't; I knew no more nor I know who
made that lamp-post. I didn't know the
taste of the stuff we smuggled for two years --
didn't know it from small beer; I've known
it well enough since, God knows. My missis
made a deal of money that time at Dept-
ford Dockyard. The men wasn't paid and let
out till twelve of a night -- I hardly mind what
night it was, days was so alike then -- and they
was our customers till one, two, or three in
the morning -- Sunday morning, for anything I
know. I don't know what my missis gained;
something jolly, there's not a fear of it. She
was kind enough to me. I don't know how long
I was with missis. After that I was a hopping,
and made my 15s. regular at it, and a haymak-
ing; but I've had a pitch at my corner for thirty-
eight year -- aye! turned thirty-eight. It's no
use asking me what I made at first -- I can't tell;
but I'm sure I made more than twice as much
as my daughter and me makes now, the two of us.
I wish people that thinks we're idle now were
with me for a day. I'd teach them. I don't --
that's the two of us don't -- make 15s. a week now,
nor the half of it, when all's paid. D -- d if I do.
The d -- d boys take care of that." [Here I
had a statement of the boy's tradings, similar to
what I have given.] "There's `Canterbury' has
lots of boys, and they bother me. I can tell,
and always could, how it is with working men.
When mechanics is in good work, their children
has halfpennies to spend with me. If they're
hard up, there's no halfpennies. The pennies
go to a loaf or to buy a candle. I might have
saved money once, but had a misfortunate family.
My husband? O, never mind about him. D -- n
him. I've been a widow many years. My son
-- it's nothing how many children I have -- is
married; he had the care of an ingine. But
Column 2
he lost it from ill health. It was in a feather-
house, and the flue got down his throat, and
coughed him; and so he went into the country,
108 miles off, to his wife's mother. But his
wife's mother got her living by wooding, and
other ways, and couldn't help him or his wife;
so he left, and he's with me now. He has a job
sometimes with a greengrocer. at 6d. a day and
a bit of grub; a little bit -- very. I must shelter
him. I couldn't turn him out. If a Turk I
knew was in distress, and I had only half a loaf,
I'd give him half of that, if he was ever such
a Turk -- I would, sir! Out of 6d. a day, my son
-- poor fellow, he's only twenty-seven! -- wants
a bit of 'baccy and a pint of beer. It 'ud be
unnatural to oppose that, wouldn't it, sir? He
frets about his wife, that's staying with her
mother, 108 miles off; and about his little girl;
but I tell him to wait, and he may have more
little girls. God knows, they come when they're
not wanted a bit. I joke and say all my old
sweethearts is dying away. Old Jemmy went off
sudden. He lent me money sometimes, but
I always paid him. He had a public once, and
had some money when he died. I saw him the
day afore he died. He was in bed, but wasn't
his own man quite; though he spoke sensible
enough to me. He said, said he, `Won't you
have half a quartern of rum, as we've often had
it?' `Certainly, Jemmy,' says I, `I came for
that very thing.' Poor fellow! his friends are
quarrelling now about what he left. It's 56l. they say, and they'll go to law very likely, and
lose every thing. There'll be no such quarrel-
ling when I die, unless it is for the pawn-tickets.
I get a meal now, and got a meal afore; but it
was a better meal then, sir. Then look at my
expenses. I was a customer once. I used to
buy, and plenty such did, blue cloth aprons,
opposite Drury-lane theatre: the very shop's
there still, but I don't know what it is now;
I can't call to mind. I gave 2s. 6d. a yard,
from twenty to thirty years ago, for an apron,
and it took two yards, and I paid 4d. for making
it, and so an apron cost 5s. 4d. -- that wasn't
much thought of in those times. I used to be
different off then. Lnever go to church; I used
to go when I was a little child at Sevenoaks.
I suppose I was born somewhere thereabouts.
I've forgot what the inside of a church is like.
There's no costermongers ever go to church,
except the rogues of them, that wants to appear
good. I buy my fruit at Covent-garden. Apples
is now 4s. 6d. a bushel there. I may make twice
that in selling them; but a bushel may last me
two, three, or four days."
As I have already, under the street-sale of
fish, given an account of the oyster stall-keeper,
as well as the stationary dealers in sprats, and the
principal varieties of wet fish, there is no neces-
sity for me to continue this part of my subject.
We have now, in a measure, finished with the
metropolitan costermongers. We have seen that
the street-sellers of fish, fruit, and vegetables
It would be a marvel indeed if it were other-
wise. Denied the right of getting a living by
the street authorities, after having, perhaps, been
supplied with the means of so doing by the
parish authorities -- the stock which the one had
provided seized and confiscated by the other --
law seems to them a mere farce, or at best, but
the exercise of an arbitrary and despotic power,
against which they consider themselves justi-
fied, whenever an opportunity presents itself, of
using the same physical force as it brings to
bear against them. That they are ignorant and
vicious as they are, surely is not their fault. If
we were all born with learning and virtue, then
might we, with some show of justice, blame the
costermongers for their want of both; but seeing
that even the most moral and intelligent of us
owe the greater part, if not the whole, of our
wisdom and goodness to the tuition of others,
we must not in the arrogance of our self-conceit
condemn these men because they are not like
ourselves, when it is evident that we should have
been as they are, had not some one done for us
what we refuse to do for them. We leave them
destitute of all pereeption of beauty, and there-
Column 2
fore without any means of pleasure but through
their appetites, and then we are surprized to
find their evenings are passed either in brutal-
izing themselves with beer, or in gloating
over the mimic sensuality of the "penny gaff."
Without the least intellectual culture is it likely,
moreover, that they should have that perception
of antecedents and consequents which enables us
to see in the shadows of the past the types of
the future -- or that power of projecting the
mind into the space, as it were, of time, which
we in Saxon-English call fore-sight, and in
Anglo-Latin pro-vidence -- a power so godlike
that the latter term is often used by us to ex-
press the Godhead itself? Is it possible, then,
that men who are as much creatures of the
present as the beasts of the field -- instinctless
animals -- should have the least faculty of pre-
vision? or rather is it not natural that, following
the most precarious of all occupations -- one in
which the subsistence depends upon the weather
of this the most variable climate of any -- they
should fail to make the affluence of the fine
days mitigate the starvation of the rainy ones?
or that their appetites, made doubly eager by
the privations suffered in their adversity, should
be indulged in all kinds of excess in their
prosperity -- their lives being thus, as it were,
a series of alternations between starvation and
surfeit?
The fate of children brought up amid the
influence of such scenes -- with parents starving
one week and drunk all the next -- turned loose
into the streets as soon as they are old enough
to run alone -- sent out to sell in public-houses
almost before they know how to put two half-
pence together -- their tastes trained to libidinism
long before puberty at the penny concert, and
their passions inflamed with the unrestrained
intercourse of the twopenny hops -- the fate of
the young, I say, abandoned to the blight of such
associations as these, cannot well be otherwise
than it is. If the child be father to the man,
assuredly it does not require a great effort of
imagination to conceive the manhood that such
a childhood must necessarily engender.
Some months back Mr. Mayhew, with a view
to mitigate what appeared to him to be the
chief evils of a street-seller's life, founded "The
Friendly Association of London Costermongers,"
the objects of which were as follows:
1. To establish a Benefit and Provident Fund
for insuring to each Member a small weekly
allowance in Sickness or Old Age, as well as
a certain sum to his family at his death, so
that the Costermongers, when incapacitated
from labour, may not be forced to seek paro-
chial relief, nor, at their decease, be left to be
buried by the parish.
2. To institute a Penny Savings' Bank and
Winter Fund, where the smallest deposits will
be received and bear interest, so that the Cos-
termongers may be encouraged to lay by even
the most trivial sums, not only as a provision
for future comfort, but as the means of assisting
their poorer brethren with future loans.
3. To form a Small Loan Fund for supply-
ing the more needy Costermongers with Stock-
Money, &c., at a fair and legitimate interest,
instead of the exorbitant rates that are now
charged.
4. To promote the use of full weights and
measures by every Member of the Association,
as well as a rigid inspection of the scales, &c.,
of all other Costermongers, so that the honestly
disposed Street-sellers may be protected, and
the public secured against imposition.
5. To protect the Costermongers from inter-
ference when lawfully pursuing their calling,
by placing it in their power to employ counsel
to defend them, if unjustly prosecuted.
6. To provide harmless, if not rational,
amusements at the same cheap rate as the
pernicious entertainments now resorted to by
the Street-sellers.
7. To adopt means for the gratuitous educa-
tion of the children of the Costermongers, in
the day time, and the men and women them-
selves in the evening.
This institution remains at present compara-
tively in abeyance, from the want of funds to
complete the preliminary arrangements. Those,
however, who may feel inclined to contribute
towards its establishment, will please to pay
their subscriptions into Messrs. Twinings' Bank,
Strand, to the account of Thomas Hughes, Esq.
(of 63, Upper Berkeley-street, Portman-square),
who has kindly consented to act as Treasurer to
the Association.
The Association above described arose out of a meeting of costermongers and other street- folk, which was held, at my instance, on the evening of the 12th of June last, in the National Hall, Holborn. The meeting was announced as one of "street-sellers, street-performers, and street-labourers," but the costermongers were the great majority present. The admission was by ticket, and the tickets, which were of course gratuitous, were distributed by men familiar with all the classes invited to attend. These men found the tickets received by some of the street- people with great distrust; others could not be made to understand why any one should trou- ble himself on their behoof; others again, cheer- fully promised their attendance. Some accused the ticket distributors with having been bribed by the Government or the police, though for what purpose was not stated. Some abused them heartily, and some offered to treat them. At least 1,000 persons were present at the meeting, of whom 731 presented their tickets; the others were admitted, because they were known to the door-keepers, and had either lost their tickets or had not the opportunity to obtain them. The persons to whom cards of admission were given were invited to write their names and callings on the backs, and the cards so received gave the following result. Costermongers, 256; fish- sellers, 28; hucksters, 23; lot-sellers, 18; street- labourers, 16; paper-sellers and workers, 13; Column 2toy-sellers, 11; ginger-beer-sellers, 9; hardware- sellers, 9; general-dealers, 7; street-musicians, 5; street-performers, 5; cakes and pastry-sellers, fried-fish-vendors, and tinkers, each, 4; turf-ven- dors, street-exhibitors, strolling-players, cat's- meat-men, water-cress-sellers, stay-lace, and cotton-sellers, each, 3; board-carriers, fruit- sellers, street-tradesmen, hawkers, street-green- grocers, shell-fish-vendors, poulterers, mud- larks, wire-workers, ballad-singers, crock-men, and booksellers, each, 2; the cards also gave one each of the following avocations: -- fly-cage- makers, fly-paper-sellers, grinders, tripe-sellers, pattern-printers, blind-paper-cutters, lace-collar- sellers, bird-sellers, bird-trainers, pen-sellers, lucifer-merchants, watch-sellers, decorators, and play-bill-sellers. 260 cards were given in without being indorsed with any name or calling.
My object in calling this meeting was to
ascertain from the men themselves what were the
grievances to which they considered themselves
subjected; what were the peculiarities and what
the privations of a street-life. Cat-calls, and
every description of discordant sound, prevailed,
before the commencement of the proceedings,
but there was also perfect good-humour. Al-
though it had been announced that all the
speakers were to address the meeting from the
platform, yet throughout the evening some man
or other would occasionally essay to speak from
the body of the hall. Some of those present
expressed misgivings that the meeting was got
up by the Government, or by Sir R. Peel, and
that policemen, in disguise, were in attendance.
The majority showed an ignorance of the usual
forms observed at public meetings, though some
manifested a thorough understanding of them.
Nor was there much delicacy observed -- but,
perhaps, about as much as in some assem-
blages of a different character -- in clamouring
down any prosy speaker. Many present were
without coats (for it was a warm evening),
some were without waistcoats, many were in
tatters, hats and caps were in infinite varieties
of shape and shade, while a few were well and
even genteelly dressed. The well dressed street-
sellers were nearly all young men, and one of
these wore moustachios. After I had explained,
amidst frequent questions and interruptions, the
purpose for which I had summoned the meet-
ing, and had assured the assembly that, to the
best of my knowledge, no policemen were pre-
sent, I invited free discussion.
It was arranged that some one person should
address the meeting as the representative of
each particular occupation. An elderly man
of small stature and lively intelligent features,
stood up to speak on behalf of the " paper-
workers," "flying-stationers," and " standing-
patterers." He said, that "for twenty-four years
he had been a penny-showman, a street-seller,
and a patterer." He dwelt upon the difference
of a street-life when he was young and at
the present time, the difference being between
meals and no meals; and complained that though
A costermonger, a quiet-looking man, tidily
clad, said he was the son of a country auctioneer,
now dead; and not having been brought up
to any trade, he came to London to try his luck.
His means were done before he could obtain em-
ployment; and he was in a state of starvation.
At last he was obliged to apply to the parish.
The guardians took him into the workhouse,
and offered to pass him home: but as he could
do no good there, he refused to go. Whereupon,
giving him a pound of bread, he was turned
into the streets, and had nowhere to lay his head.
In wandering down the New-cut a costermon-
ger questioned him, and then took him into his
house and fed him This man kept him for a
year and a half; he showed him how to get a
living in the street trade; and when he left, gave
him 20s. to start with. With this sum he got
a good living directly; and he could do so now,
were it not for the police, whose conduct, he
stated, was sometimes very tyrannical. He had
been dragged to the station-house, for standing
to serve customers, though he obstructed nobody;
the policeman, however, called it an obstruction,
and he (the speaker) was fined 2s. 6d.; where-
upon, because he had not the half-crown, his
barrow and all it contained were taken from him,
and he had heard nothing of them since. This
almost broke him down. There was no redress
for these things, and he thought they ought to
be looked into.
This man spoke with considerable energy; and
when he had concluded, many costermongers
shouted, at the top of their voices, that they
could substantiate every word of what he had
said.
A young man, of superior appearance, said
he was the son of a gentleman who had held a
commission as Lieutenant in the 20th Foot, and
as Captain in the 34th Infantry, and afterwards
became Sub-director of the Bute Docks; in which
situation he died, leaving no property. He (the
speaker) was a classical scholar; but having no
trade, he was compelled, after his father's death,
to come to London in search of employment,
thinking that his pen and his school acquire-
ments would secure it. But in this expectation
he was disappointed, -- though for a short period
he was earning two guineas a week in copying
documents for the House of Commons. That
time was past; and he was a street-patterer
now through sheer necessity. He could say
Column 2
from experience that the earnings of that class
were no more than from 8s. to 10s. a week. He
then declaimed at some length against the inter-
ference of the police with the patterers, con-
sidering it harsh and unnecessary.
After some noisy and not very relevant dis-
cussion concerning the true amount of a street-
patterer's earnings, a clergyman of the Esta-
blished Church, now selling stenographic cards
in the street, addressed the meeting. He ob-
served, that in every promiscuous assembly
there would always be somebody who might be
called unfortunate. Of this number he was one;
for when, upon the 5th September, 1831, he
preached a funeral sermon before a fashionable
congregation, upon Mr. Huskisson's death by a
railway accident, he little thought he should
ever be bound over in his own recognizances in
10l. for obstructing the metropolitan thorough-
fares. He was a native of Hackney, but in early
life he went to Scotland, and upon the 24th June,
1832, he obtained the presentation to a small
extra-parochial chapel in that country, upon the
presentation of the Rev. Dr. Bell. His people
embraced Irvingism, and he was obliged to
leave; and in January, 1837, he came to the
metropolis. His history since that period he
need not state. His occupation was well known,
and he could confirm what had been stated with
regard to the police. The Police Act provided,
that all persons selling goods in the streets were
to keep five feet off the pavement, the street not
being a market. He had always kept with his
wares and his cards beyond the prohibited dis-
tance of five feet; and for six years and a half
he had sold his cards without molesting or being
molested. After some severe observations upon
the police, he narrated several events in his
personal history to account for his present con-
dition, which he attributed to misfortune and
the injustice of society. In the course of these
explanations he gave an illustration of his
classical acquirements, in having detected a
grammatical error in a Latin inscription upon
the plate of a foundation-stone for a new church
in Westminster. He wrote to the incumbent,
pointing out the error, and the incumbent asked
the beadle who he was. "Oh," said the beadle,
"he is a fellow who gets his living in the
streets." This was enough. He got no answer
to his letter, though he knew the incumbent and
his four curates, and had attended his church
for seven years. After dwelling on the suffer-
ings of those whose living was gained in the
streets, he said, that if persons wished really
to know anything of the character or habits of
life of the very poor, of whom he was one, the
knowledge could only be had from a personal
survey of their condition in their own homes.
He ended, by expressing his hope that by better
treatment, and an earnest attention -- moral,
social, and religious -- to their condition, the poor
of the streets might be gathered to the church,
and to God.
A "wandering musician" in a Highland
garb, worn and dirty, complained at some
A hale-looking man, a costermonger, of middle
age -- who said he had a wife and four children
dependent upon him -- then spoke. It was a
positive fact, he said, notwithstanding their
poverty, their hardships, and even their degra-
dation in the eyes of some, that the first mar-
kets in London were mainly supported by
costermongers. What would the Duke of
Bedford's market in Covent-garden be with-
Column 2
out them? This question elicited loud
applause.
Several other persons followed with state-
ments of a similar character, which were
listened to with interest; but from their general
sameness it is not necessary to repeat them
here. After occupying nearly four hours, the
proceedings were brought to a close by a vote
of thanks, and the "street-sellers, performers,
and labourers," separated in a most orderly
manner.
The Irish street-sellers are both a numerous and peculiar class of people. It therefore be- hoves me, for the due completeness of this work, to say a few words upon their numbers, earn- ings, condition, and mode of life.
The number of Irish street-sellers in the metro-
polis has increased greatly of late years. One
gentleman, who had every means of being well-
informed, considered that it was not too much
to conclude, that, within these five years, the
numbers of the poor Irish people who gain a
scanty maintenance, or what is rather a substi-
tute for a maintenance, by trading, or begging,
or by carrying on the two avocations simulta-
neously in the streets of London, had been
doubled in number.
I found among the English costermongers a
general dislike of the Irish. In fact, next to
a policeman, a genuine London costermonger
hates an Irishman, considering him an intruder.
Whether there be any traditional or hereditary
ill-feeling between them, originating from a
clannish feeling, I cannot ascertain. The coster-
mongers whom I questioned had no know-
ledge of the feelings or prejudices of their pre-
decessors, but I am inclined to believe that the
prejudice is modern, and has originated in the
great inflex of Irishmen and women, intermix-
ing, more especially during the last five years,
with the costermonger's business. An Irish
costermonger, however, is no novelty in the
streets of London. "From the mention of
the costardmonger," says Mr. Charles Knight,
"in the old dramatists, he appears to have been
frequently an Irishman."
Of the Irish street-sellers, at present, it is
computed that there are, including men, women,
and children, upwards of 10,000. Assuming the
street-sellers attending the London fish and
green markets to be, with their families, 30,000
in number, and 7 in every 20 of these to be
Irish, we shall have rather more than the total
above given. Of this large body three-fourths
sell only fruit, and more especially nuts and
oranges; indeed, the orange-season is called the
"Irishman's harvest." The others deal in fish,
fruit, and vegetables, but these are principally
men. Some of the most wretched of the street-
Column 2
Irish deal in such trifles as lucifer-matches,
water-cresses, &c.
I am informed that the great mass of these
people have been connected, in some capacity or
other, with the culture of the land in Ireland.
The mechanics who have sought the metropolis
from the sister kingdom have become mixed with
their respective handicrafts in England, some of
the Irish -- though only a few -- taking rank with
the English skilled labourers. The greater
part of the Irish artizans who have arrived
within the last five years are to be found among
the most degraded of the tailors and shoemakers
who work at the East-end for the slop-masters.
A large class of the Irish who were agricul-
tural labourers in their country are to be found
among the men working for bricklayers, as well
as among the dock-labourers and excavators, &c.
Wood chopping is an occupation greatly resorted
to by the Irish in London. Many of the Irish,
however, who are not regularly employed in
their respective callings, resort to the streets
when they cannot obtain work otherwise.
The Irish women and girls who sell fruit,
&c., in the streets, depend almost entirely
on that mode of traffic for their subsistence.
They are a class not sufficiently taught to avail
themselves of the ordinary resources of women
in the humbler walk of life. Unskilled at their
needles, working for slop employers, even at
the commonest shirt-making, is impossible to
them. Their ignorance of household work,
moreover (for such description of work is un-
known in their wretched cabins in many parts of
Ireland), incapacitates them in a great measure
for such employments as "charing," washing,
and ironing, as well as from regular domestic em-
ployment. Thus there seems to remain to them
but one thing to do -- as, indeed, was said to me by
one of themselves -- viz., "to sell for a ha'pinny
the three apples which cost a farruthing."
Very few of these women (nor, indeed, of the
men, though rather more of them than the wo-
men) can read, and they are mostly all wretchedly
poor; but the women present two characteristics
which distinguish them from the London coster-
women generally -- they are chaste, and, unlike
the "coster girls," very seldom form any con-
The majority of the Irish street-sellers of both
sexes beg, and often very eloquently, as they
carry on their trade; and I was further assured,
that, but for this begging, some of them might
starve outright.
The greater proportion of the Irish street-
sellers are from Leinster and Munster, and a
considerable number come from Connaught.
Notwithstanding the prejudices of the Eng- lish costers, I am of opinion that the Irishmen and women who have become costermongers, belong to a better class than the Irish labourers. The Irishman may readily adapt himself, in a strange place, to labour, though not to trade; but these costers are -- or the majority at least are -- poor persevering traders enough.
The most intelligent and prosperous of the
street-Irish are those who have "risen" -- for so
I heard it expressed -- "into regular costers."
The untaught Irishmen's capabilities, as I have
before remarked, with all his powers of speech
and quickness of apprehension, are far less fitted
for "buying in the cheapest market and selling
in the dearest" than for mere physical em-
ployment. Hence those who take to street-
trading for a living seldom prosper in it, and
three-fourths of the street-Irish confine their
dealings to such articles as are easy of sale, like
apples, nuts, or oranges, for they are rarely
masters of purchasing to advantage, and seem to
know little about tale or measure, beyond the
most familiar quantities. Compared with an
acute costermonger, the mere apple-seller is but
as the labourer to the artizan.
One of the principal causes why the Irish
costermongers have increased so extensively of
late years, is to be found in the fact that the
labouring classes, (and of them chiefly the class
employed in the culture of land,) have been
driven over from "the sister Isle" more thickly
for the last four or five years than formerly.
Several circumstances have conspired to effect
this. -- First, they were driven over by the famine,
when they could not procure, or began to fear
that soon they could not procure, food to eat.
Secondly, they were forced to take refuge in
this country by the evictions, when their land-
lords had left them no roof to shelter them in
their own. (The shifts, the devices, the plans,
to which numbers of these poor creatures had
recourse, to raise the means of quitting Ireland
for England -- or for anywhere -- will present a
very remarkable chapter at some future period.)
Thirdly, though the better class of small
farmers who have emigrated from Ireland, in
hopes of "bettering themselves," have mostly
sought the shores of North America, still some
who have reached this country have at last
settled into street-sellers. And, fourthly, many
who have come over here only for the
Column 2
harvest have been either induced or compelled
to stay.
Another main cause is, that the Irish, as
labourers, can seldom obtain work all the year
through, and thus the ranks of the Irish street-
sellers are recruited every winter by the slack-
ness of certain periodic trades in which they
are largely employed -- such as hodmen, dock-
work, excavating, and the like. They are,
therefore, driven by want of employment to the
winter sale of oranges and nuts. These cir-
cumstances have a doubly malefic effect, as
the increase of costers accrues in the winter
months, and there are consequently the most
sellers when there are the fewest buyers.
Moreover, the cessation of work in the con-
struction of railways, compared with the abund-
ance of employment which attracted so many
to this country during the railway mania,
has been another fertile cause of there being so
many Irish in the London streets.
The prevalence of Irish women and children
among street-sellers is easily accounted for --
they are, as I said before, unable to do anything
else to eke out the means of their husbands
or parents. A needle is as useless in their
fingers as a pen.
Bitterly as many of these people suffer in
this country, grievous and often eloquent as are
their statements, I met with none who did not
manifest repugnance at the suggestion of a
return to Ireland. If asked why they objected
to return, the response was usually in the form of
a question: "Shure thin, sir, and what good
could I do there?" Neither can say that I
heard any of these people express any love for
their country, though they often spoke with
great affection of their friends.
From an Irish costermonger, a middle-aged
man, with a physiognomy best known as "Irish,"
and dressed in corduroy trousers, with a loose
great-coat, far too big for him, buttoned about
him, I had the following statement:
"I had a bit o' land, yer honor, in County
Limerick. Well, it wasn't just a farrum, nor
what ye would call a garden here, but my father
lived and died on it -- glory be to God! -- and
brought up me and my sister on it. It was
about an acre, and the taties was well known
to be good. But the sore times came, and the
taties was afflicted, and the wife and me -- I
have no childer -- hadn't a bite nor a sup, but
wather to live on, and an igg or two. I filt the
famine a-comin'. I saw people a-feedin' on the
wild green things, and as I had not such a bad
take, I got Mr. -- (he was the head master's
agent) to give me 28s. for possission in quiet-
ness, and I sould some poulthry I had -- their
iggs was a blessin' to keep the life in us -- I
sould them in Limerick for 3s. 3d. -- the poor
things -- four of them. The furnithur' I sould to
the nabors, for somehow about 6s. Its the thruth
I'm ay-tellin' of you, sir, and there's 2s. owin'
of it still, and will be a perpitual loss. The wife
and me walked to Dublin, though we had betther
have gone by the `long say,' but I didn't under-
The Jews, in the streets, while acting as cos- termongers, never "worked a barrow," nor dealt in the more ponderous and least pro- fitable articles of the trade, such as turnips and cabbages. They however, had, at one period, the chief possession of a portion of the trade which the "regular hands" do not consider proper costermongering, and which is now chiefly confined to the Irish -- viz.: orange selling.
The trade was, not many years ago, confined
almost entirely to the Jew boys, who kept aloof
from the vagrant lads of the streets, or mixed
with them only in the cheap theatres and
concert-rooms. A person who had had great
experience at what was, till recently, one of
the greatest "coaching inns," told me that,
speaking within his own recollection and from
his own observation, he thought the sale
of oranges was not so much in the hands of
the Jew lads until about forty years back.
The orange monopoly, so to speak, was
established by the street-Jews, about 1810, or
three or four years previous to that date, when
recruiting and local soldiering were at their
height, and when a great number of the vaga-
bond or "roving" population, who in one
capacity or other now throng the streets, were
induced to enlist. The young Jews never entered
the ranks of the army. The streets were thus
in a measure cleared for them, and the itinerant
orange-trade fell almost entirely into their
hands. Some of the young Jews gained, I am
assured, at least 100l. a year in this traffic.
Column 2
The numbers of country people who hastened to
London on the occasion of the Allied Sove-
reigns' visit in 1814 -- many wealthy persons
then seeing the capital for the first time --
afforded an excellent market to these dealers.
Moreover, the perseverance of the Jew orange
boys was not to be overcome; they would follow
a man who even looked encouragingly at their
wares for a mile or two. The great resort of
these Jew dealers -- who eschewed night-work
generally, and left the theatre-doors to old men
and women of all ages -- was at the coaching inns;
for year by year, after the peace of 1815, the im-
provement of the roads and the consequent
increase of travellers to London, progressed.
About 1825, as nearly as my informant could
recollect, these keen young traders began to add
the sale of other goods to their oranges, press-
ing them upon the notice of those who were
leaving or visiting London by the different
coaches. So much was this the case, that it was
a common remark at that time, that no one
could reach or leave the metropolis, even for
the shortest journey, without being expected to
be in urgent want of oranges and lemons, black-
lead pencils, sticks of sealing-wax, many-
bladed pen-knives, pocket-combs, razors, strops,
braces, and sponges. To pursue the sale of the
last-mentioned articles -- they being found, I
presume, to be more profitable -- some of the
street-Jews began to abandon the sale of
oranges and lemons; and it was upon this,
that the trade was "taken up" by the wives
and children of the Irish bricklayers' labourers,
and of other Irish work-people then resident in
London. The numbers of Irish in the metro-
polis at that time began to increase rapidly;
for twenty years ago, they resorted numerously
to England to gather in the harvest, and those
who had been employed in contiguous counties
during the autumn, made for London in the
winter. "I can't say they were well off, sir,"
said one man to me, "but they liked bread
and herrings, or bread and tea -- better than
potatoes without bread at home." From 1836
to 1840, I was informed, the Irish gradually
superseded the Jews in the fruit traffic about
the coaching-houses. One reason for this was,
that they were far more eloquent, begging
pathetically, and with many benedictions on
their listeners. The Jews never begged, I was
told; "they were merely traders." Another
reason was, that the Irish, men or lads, who
had entered into the fruit trade in the coach-
yards, would not only sell and beg, but were
ready to "lend a hand" to any over-burthened
coach-porter. This the Jews never did, and in
that way the people of the yard came to en-
courage the Irish to the prejudice of the
Jews. At present, I understand that, with the
exception of one or two in the city, no Jews
vend oranges in the streets, and that the trade
is almost entirely in the hands of the Irish.
Another reason why the Irish could supersede
and even undersell the Jews and regular cos-
termongers was this, as I am informed on ex-
I inquired what might be the number of the
Jews plying, so to speak, at the coaching inns,
and was assured that it was less numerous than
was generally imagined. One man computed
it at 300 individuals, all under 21; another at
only 200; perhaps the mean, or 250, might be
about the mark. The number was naturally
considered greater, I was told, because the same
set of street traders were seen over and over
again. The Jews knew when the coaches were
to arrive and when they started, and they would
hurry, after availing themselves of a departure,
from one inn -- the Belle Sauvage, Ludgate-hill,
for instance -- to take advantage of an arrival at
another -- say the Saracen's Head, Snow-hill.
Thus they appeared everywhere, but were the
same individuals.
I inquired to what calling the youthful Jews,
thus driven from their partially monopolized
street commerce, had devoted themselves, and
was told that even when the orange and hawk-
ing trade was at the best, the Jews rarely carried
it on after they were twenty-two or twenty-three,
but that they then resorted to some more whole-
sale calling, such as the purchase of nuts or
foreign grapes, at public sales. At present, I
am informed, they are more thickly than ever
engaged in these trades, as well as in two new
avocations, that have been established within
these few years, -- the sale of the Bahama pine-
apples and of the Spanish and Portuguese
onions.
About the Royal Exchange, Jew boys still
hawk pencils, etc., but the number engaged in
this pursuit throughout London is not, as far as
I can ascertain, above one-eighth -- if an eighth --
of what it was even twelve years ago.
Having now given a brief sketch as to how the Irish people have come to form so large a proportion of the London street-sellers, I shall proceed, as I did with the English costermon- gers, to furnish the reader with a short account of their religious, moral, intellectual, and phy- sical condition, so that he may be able to con- trast the habits and circumstances of the one class with those of the other. First, of the reli- gion of the Irish street-folk.
Almost all the street-Irish are Roman Catho-
lics. Of course I can but speak generally; but
during my inquiry I met with only two who
said they were Protestants, and when I came to
converse with them, I found out that they were
partly ignorant of, and partly indifferent to, any
religion whatever. An Irish Protestant gentle-
man said to me: "You may depend upon it, if
ever you meet any of my poor countrymen who
Column 2
will not talk to you about religion, they either
know or care nothing about it; for the religious
spirit runs high in Ireland, and Protestants and
Catholics are easily led to converse about their
faith."
I found that some of the Irish Roman Catho-
lics -- but they had been for many years resident
in England, and that among the poorest or
vagrant class of the English -- had become indif-
ferent to their creed, and did not attend their
chapels, unless at the great fasts or festivals, and
this they did only occasionally. One old stall-
keeper, who had been in London nearly thirty
years, said to me: "Ah! God knows, sir, I
ought to attend mass every Sunday, but I
haven't for a many years, barrin' Christmas-day
and such times. But I'll thry and go more
rigular, plase God." This man seemed to re-
sent, as a sort of indignity, my question if he
ever attended any other place of worship. "Av
coorse not!" was the reply.
One Irishman, also a fruit-seller, with a well-
stocked barrow, and without the complaint of
poverty common among his class, entered keenly
into the subject of his religious faith when I
introduced it. He was born in Ireland, but had
been in England since he was five or six. He
was a good-looking, fresh-coloured man, of
thirty or upwards, and could read and write well.
He spoke without bitterness, though zealously
enough. "Perhaps, sir, you are a gintleman
connected with the Protistant clargy," he asked,
"or a missionary?" On my stating that I had
no claim to either character, he resumed: "Will,
sir, it don't matther. All the worruld may know
my riligion, and I wish all the worruld was of
my riligion, and betther min in it than I am; I
do, indeed. I'm a Roman Catholic, sir;" [here
he made the sign of the cross]; "God be praised
for it! O yis, I know all about Cardinal Wise-
man. It's the will of God, I feel sure, that he's
to be 'stablished here, and it's no use ribillin'
against that. I've nothing to say against Pro-
tistints. I've heard it said, `It's best to pray
for them.' The street-people that call thim-
selves Protistants are no riligion at all at all. I
serruve Protistant gintlemen and ladies too, and
sometimes they talk to me kindly about religion.
They're good custhomers, and I have no doubt
good people. I can't say what their lot may be
in another worruld for not being of the true
faith. No, sir, I'll give no opinions -- none."
This man gave me a clear account of his
belief that the Blessed Virgin (he crossed him-
self repeatedly as he spoke) was the mother of
our Lord Jesus Christ, and was a mediator with
our Lord, who was God of heaven and earth --
of the duty of praying to the holy saints -- of
attending mass -- ("but the priest," he said,
"won't exact too much of a poor man, either
about that or about fasting") -- of going to con-
fession at Easter and Christmas times, at the
least -- of receiving the body of Christ, "the rale
prisince," in the holy sacrament -- of keeping
all God's commandments -- of purgatory being
a purgation of sins -- and of heaven and hell.
Another Irishman, -- who may be taken as a
type of the less informed, and who had been
between two and three years in England, hav-
ing been disappointed in emigrating to America
with his wife and two children, -- gave me the
following account, but not without considering
and hesitating. He was a very melancholy
looking man, tall and spare, and decently clad.
He and his family were living upon 8d. a day,
which he earned by sweeping a crossing. He
had been prevented by ill health from earning
2l., which he could have made, he told me, in
harvest time, as a store against winter. He had
been a street-seller, and so had his wife; and
she would be so again as soon as he could raise
2s. to buy her a stock of apples. He said,
touching his hat at each holy name, --
"Sure, yis, sir, I'm a Roman Cartholic, and
go to mass every Sunday. Jesus Christ? O yis,"
(hesitating, but proceeding readily after a word
of prompting), "he is the Lord our Saviour, and
the Son of the Holy Virgin. The blessed saints?
Yis, sir, yis. The praste prays for them. I --
I mane prays to them. O, yis. I pray to them
mysilf ivery night for a blissin', and to rise me
out of my misery. No, sir, I can't say I know
what the mass is about. I don't know what I'm
prayin' for thin, only that it's right. A poor
man, that can neither read nor write -- I wish I
could and I might do betther -- can't under-
stand it; it's all in Latin. Iv'e heard about
Cardinal Wiseman. It'll do us no good sir;
it'll only set people more against us. But it
ain't poor min's fault."
As I was anxious to witness the religious zeal
that characterizes these people, I obtained per-
mission to follow one of the priests as he made
his rounds among his flock. Everywhere the
people ran out to meet him. He had just re-
turned to them I found, and the news spread
round, and women crowded to their door-steps,
and came creeping up from the cellars through
the trap-doors, merely to curtsey to him. One
old crone, as he passed, cried, "You're a good
father, Heaven comfort you," and the boys play-
ing about stood still to watch him. A lad, in a
man's tail coat and a shirt-collar that nearly
covered in his head -- like the paper round a
bouquet -- was fortunate enough to be noticed,
and his eyes sparkled, as he touched his hair
at each word he spoke in answer. At a con-
versation that took place between the priest and
a woman who kept a dry fish-stall, the dame
excused herself for not having been up to take
tea "with his rivirince's mother lately, for thrade
had been so bisy, and night was the fullest
time." Even as the priest walked along the
street, boys running at full speed would pull up
to touch their hair, and the stall-women would
rise from their baskets; while all noise -- even a
quarrel -- ceased until he had passed by. Still
Column 2
there was no look of fear in the people. He
called them all by their names, and asked after
their families, and once or twice the "father"
was taken aside and held by the button while
some point that required his advice was whis-
pered in his ear.
The religious fervour of the people whom I
saw was intense. At one house that I entered,
the woman set me marvelling at the strength of
her zeal, by showing me how she contrived to
have in her sitting-room a sanctuary to pray
before every night and morning, and even in
the day, "when she felt weary and lonesome."
The room was rudely enough furnished, and the
only decent table was covered with a new piece
of varnished cloth; still before a rude print of
our Saviour there were placed two old plated
candlesticks, pink, with the copper shining
through; and here it was that she told her
beads. In her bed-room, too, was a coloured
engraving of the "Blessed Lady," which she
never passed without curtseying to.
Of course I detail these matters as mere facts,
without desiring to offer any opinion here, either
as to the benefit or otherwise of the creed in
question. As I had shown how the English
costermonger neither had nor knew any religion
whatever, it became my duty to give the reader
a view of the religion of the Irish street-sellers.
In order to be able to do so as truthfully as
possible, I placed myself in communication with
those parties who were in a position to give me
the best information on the subject. The result
is given above, in all the simplicity and impar-
tiality of history.
These several heads have often required from me lengthened notices, but as regards the class I am now describing they may be dismissed briefly enough. The majority of the street-Irish whom I saw were unable to read, but I found those who had no knowledge of reading -- (and the same remark applies to the English street- sellers as well) -- regret their inability, and say, "I wish I could read, sir; I'd be better off now." On the other hand, those who had a knowledge of reading and writing, said fre- quently enough, "Why, yes, sir, I can read and write, but it's been no good to me," as if they had been disappointed in their expectations as to the benefits attendant upon scholarship. I am inclined to think, however, that a greater anxiety exists among the poor generally, to have some schooling provided for their children, than was the case a few years back. One Irishman attributed this to the increased number of Roman Catholic schools, "for the more schools there are," he said, "the more people think about schooling their children."
The literature, or reading, of she street-Irish
is, I believe, confined to Roman Catholic books,
such as the "Lives of the Saints," published in
a cheap form; one, and only one, I found with
The amusements of the street-Irish are not
those of the English costermongers -- though
there are exceptions, of course, to the remark.
The Irish fathers and mothers do not allow their
daughters, even when they possess the means, to
resort to the "penny gaffs" or the "twopenny
hops," unaccompanied by them. Some of the
men frequent the beer-shops, and are inveterate
drinkers and smokers too. I did not hear of any
amusements popular among, or much resorted
to, by the Irishmen, except dancing parties at
one another's houses, where they jig and reel
furiously. They frequent raffles also, but the
article is often never thrown for, and the evening
is spent in dancing.
I may here observe -- in reference to the
statement that Irish parents will not expose
their daughters to the risk of what they con-
sider corrupt influences -- that when a young
Irishwoman does break through the pale of
chastity, she often becomes, as I was assured,
one of the most violent and depraved of, perhaps,
the most depraved class.
Of politics, I think, the street-Irish under-
stand nothing, and my own observations in this
respect were confirmed by a remark made to
me by an Irish gentleman: "Their politics are
either a dead letter, or the politics of their
priests."
are to be found "nests of Irish" -- as they are
called -- or courts inhabited solely by the Irish
costermongers. These people form separate
colonies, rarely visiting or mingling with the
English costers. It is curious, on walking
through one of these settlements, to notice
the manner in which the Irish deal among
themselves -- street-seller buying of street-seller.
Even in some of the smallest courts there may
be seen stalls of vegetables, dried herrings, or
salt cod, thriving, on the associative principle,
by mutual support.
The parts of London that are the most thickly
populated with Irish lie about Brook-street, Rat-
cliff-cross, down both sides of the Commercial-
road, and in Rosemary-lane, though nearly all
the "coster-districts" cited at p. 47, have their
Irish settlements -- Cromer-street, Saffron-hill
and King-street, Drury-lane, for instance, being
thickly peopled with the Irish; but the places
I have mentioned above are peculiarly distin-
guished, by being almost entirely peopled by
visitors from the sister isle.
The same system of immigration is pursued
in London as in America. As soon as the first
settler is thriving in his newly chosen country,
a certain portion of his or her earnings are
carefully hoarded up, until they are sufficient
to pay for the removal of another member of
Column 2
the family to England; then one of the friends
left "at home" is sent for; and thus by degrees
the entire family is got over, and once more
united.
Perhaps there is no quarter of London where
the habits and habitations of the Irish can be
better seen and studied than in Rosemary-lane,
and the little courts and alleys that spring from
it on each side. Some of these courts have other
courts branching off from them, so that the loca-
lity is a perfect labyrinth of "blind alleys;" and
when once in the heart of the maze it is difficult
to find the path that leads to the main-road.
As you walk down "the lane," and peep through
the narrow openings between the houses, the
place seems like a huge peep-show, with dark
holes of gateways to look through, while the
court within appears bright with the daylight;
and down it are seen rough-headed urchins
running with their feet bare through the pud-
dles, and bonnetless girls, huddled in shawls,
lolling against the door-posts. Sometimes
you see a long narrow alley, with the houses
so close together that opposite neighbours are
talking from their windows; while the ropes,
stretched zig-zag from wall to wall, afford
just room enough to dry a blanket or a couple
of shirts, that swell out dropsically in the
wind.
I visited one of the paved yards round which
the Irish live, and found that it had been turned
into a complete drying-ground, with shirts,
gowns, and petticoats of every description and
colour. The buildings at the end were com-
pletely hidden by "the things," and the air felt
damp and chilly, and smelt of soap-suds. The
gutter was filled with dirty gray water emptied
from the wash-tubs, and on the top were the
thick bubbles floating about under the breath of
the boys "playing at boats" with them.
It is the custom with the inhabitants of these
courts and alleys to assemble at the entrance
with their baskets, and chat and smoke away the
morning. Every court entrance has its little
group of girls and women, lolling listlessly
against the sides, with then heads uncovered,
and their luxuriant hair fuzzy as oakum. It is
peculiar with the Irish women that -- after having
been accustomed to their hoods -- they seldom
wear bonnets, unless on a long journey. Nearly
all of them, too, have a thick plaid shawl, which
they keep on all the day through, with their
hands covered under it. At the mouth of the
only thoroughfare deserving of the name of
street -- for a cart could just go through it -- were
congregated about thirty men and women, who
rented rooms in the houses on each side of the
road. Six women, with baskets of dried her-
rings, were crouching in a line on the kerb-
stone with the fish before them; their legs were
drawn up so closely to their bodies that the shawl
covered the entire figure, and they looked very
like the podgy "tombolers" sold by the Italian
boys. As all their wares were alike, it was puz-
zling work to imagine how, without the strongest
opposition, they could each obtain a living. The
After looking at the low foreheads and long
bulging upper lips of some of the group, it was
pleasant to gaze upon the pretty faces of the
one or two girls that lolled against the wall.
Their black hair, smoothed with grease, and
shining almost as if "japanned," and their large
gray eyes with the thick dark fringe of lash,
seemed out of place among the hard features
of their companions. It was only by looking at
the short petticoats and large feet you could
assure yourself that they belonged to the same
class.
In all the houses that I entered were traces of
household care and neatness that I had little
expected to have seen. The cupboard fastened
in the corner of the room, and stocked with mugs
and cups, the mantelpiece with its images, and
the walls covered with showy-coloured prints of
saints and martyrs, gave an air of comfort that
strangely disagreed with the reports of the cabins
in "ould Ireland." As the doors to the houses
were nearly all of them kept open, I could, even
whilst walking along, gain some notion of the
furniture of the homes. In one house that I
visited there was a family of five persons, living
on the ground floor and occupying two rooms.
The boards were strewn with red sand, and the
front apartment had three beds in it, with the
printed curtains drawn closely round. In a
dark room, at the back, lived the family itself.
It was fitted up as a parlour, and crowded to
excess with chairs and tables, the very staircase
having pictures fastened against the wooden
partition. The fire, although it was midday,
and a warm autumn morning, served as much
for light as for heat, and round it crouched the
mother, children, and visitors, bending over the
flame as if in the severest winter time. In a
room above this were a man and woman lately
arrived in England. The woman sat huddled
up in a corner smoking, with the husband
standing over her in, what appeared at first, a
menacing attitude; I was informed, however,
that they were only planning for the future.
This room was perfectly empty of furniture, and
the once white-washed walls were black, except-
ing the little square patches which showed
where the pictures of the former tenants had
hung. In another room, I found a home so
small and full of furniture, that it was almost a
curiosity for domestic management. The bed,
with its chintz curtains looped up, filled one
end of the apartment, but the mattress of it
served as a long bench for the visitors to sit on.
The table was so large that it divided the room
in two, and if there was one picture there must
have been thirty -- all of "holy men," with yellow
Column 2
glories round their heads. The window-ledge
was dressed out with crockery, and in a tumbler
were placed the beads. The old dame herself
was as curious as her room. Her shawl was
fastened over her large frilled cap. She had a
little "button" of a nose, with the nostrils enter-
ing her face like bullet holes. She wore over
her gown an old pilot coat, well-stained with
fish slime, and her petticoats being short, she
had very much the appearance of a Dutch fish-
erman or stage smuggler.
Her story was affecting -- made more so,
perhaps, by the emotional manner in which she
related it. Nine years ago "the father" of
the district -- "the Blissed Lady guard him!" --
had found her late at night, rolling in the
gutter, and the boys pelting her with orange-
peel and mud. She was drunk -- "the Lorrud
pass by her" -- and when she came to, she
found herself in the chapel, lying before the
sanctuary, "under the shadow of the holy cross."
Watching over her was the "good father,"
trying to bring back her consciousness. He
spoke to her of her wickedness, and before she
left she took the pledge of temperance. From
that time she prospered, and the 1s. 6d. the
"father" gave her "had God's blissin' in it,"
for she became the best dressed woman in the
court, and in less than three years had 15l. in
the savings' bank, "the father -- Heaven chirish
him" -- keeping her book for her, as he did for
other poor people. She also joined "the Asso-
ciation of the Blissed Lady," (and bought her-
self the dress of the order "a beautiful grane
vilvit, which she had now, and which same
cost her 30s."), and then she was secure against
want in old age and sickness. But after nine
years prudence and comfort, a brother of hers
returned home from the army, with a pension of
1s. a day. He was wild, and persuaded her to
break her pledge, and in a short time he got all
her savings from her and spent every penny. She
could'nt shake him off, "for he was the only
kin she had on airth," and "she must love her
own flish and bones." Then began her misery.
"It plased God to visit her ould limbs with
aches and throubles, and her hips swole with
the cowld," so that she was at last forced into
a hospital, and all that was left of her store was
"aten up by sufferin's." This, she assured
me, all came about by the "good father's"
leaving that parish for another one, but now he
had returned to them again, and, with his help
and God's blessing, she would yet prosper once
more.
Whilst I was in the room, the father entered,
and "old Norah," half-divided between joy
at seeing him and shame at "being again a
beggar," laughed and wept at the same time.
She stood wiping her eyes with the shawl, and
groaning out blessings on "his rivirince's hid,"
begging of him not "to scould her for she was
a wake woman." The renegade brother was
had in to receive a lecture from "his rivirince."
A more sottish idiotic face it would be difficult
to imagine. He stood with his hands hanging
The one thing that struck me during my visit
to this neighbourhood, was the apparent listless-
ness and lazy appearance of the people. The
boys at play were the only beings who seemed
to have any life in their actions. The women
in their plaid shawls strolled along the pave-
ments, stopping each friend for a chat, or
joining some circle, and leaning against the wall
as though utterly deficient in energy. The men
smoked, with their hands in their pockets, lis-
tening to the old crones talking, and only now
and then grunting out a reply when a question
was directly put to them. And yet it is curious
that these people, who here seemed as inactive
as negroes, will perform the severest bodily
labour, undertaking tasks that the English are
almost unfitted for.
To complete this account, I subjoin a brief
description of the lodging-houses resorted to
by the Irish immigrants on their arrival in
this country.
settle in London, arrives by the Cork steamer
without knowing a single friend to whom he
can apply for house-room or assistance of any
kind. Sometimes a whole family is landed late
at night, worn out by sickness and the terrible
fatigues of a three days' deck passage, almost
paralysed by exhaustion, and scarcely able to
speak English enough to inquire for shelter till
morning.
If the immigrants, however, are bound for
America, their lot is very different. Then they
are consigned to some agent in London, who
is always on the wharf at the time the steamer
arrives, and takes the strangers to the homes
he has prepared for them until the New York
packet starts. During the two or three days'
necessary stay in London, they are provided for
at the agent's expense, and no trouble is ex-
perienced by the travellers. A large provision-
merchant in the city told me that he often,
during the season, had as many as 500 Irish
consigned to him by one vessel, so that to
lead them to their lodgings was like walking at
the head of a regiment of recruits.
The necessities of the immigrants in London
have caused several of their countrymen to open
lodging-houses in the courts about Rosemary-
lane; these men attend the coming in of the
Cork steamer, and seek for customers among the
poorest of the poor, after the manner of touters
to a sea-side hotel.
The immigrants'-houses are of two kinds --
clean and dirty. The better class of Irish
lodging-houses almost startle one by the com-
fort and cleanliness of the rooms; for after the
Column 2
descriptions you hear of the state in which the
deck passengers are landed from the Irish boats,
their clothes stained with the manure of the
pigs, and drenched with the spray, you some-
how expect to find all the accommodations
disgusting and unwholesome. But one in
particular, that I visited, had the floor clean,
and sprinkled with red sand, while the win-
dows were sound, bright, and transparent.
The hobs of the large fire-place were piled
up with bright tin pots, and the chimney
piece was white and red with the china
images ranged upon it. In one corner of
the principal apartment there stood two or
three boxes still corded up, and with bundles
strung to the sides, and against the wall was
hung a bunch of blue cloaks, such as the
Irishwomen wear. The proprietor of the house,
who was dressed in a gray tail-coat and knee-
breeches, that had somewhat the effect of a foot-
man's livery, told me that he had received
seven lodgers the day before, but six were men,
and they were all out seeking for work. In
front of the fire sat a woman, bending over it so
close that the bright cotton gown she had on
smelt of scorching. Her feet were bare, and
she held the soles of them near to the bars,
curling her toes about with the heat. She was
a short, thick-set woman, with a pair of won-
derfully muscular arms crossed over her bosom,
and her loose rusty hair streaming over her
neck. It was in vain that I spoke to her
about her journey, for she wouldn't answer me,
but kept her round, open eyes fixed on my face
with a wild, nervous look, following me about
with them everywhere.
Across the room hung a line, with the newly-
washed and well-patched clothes of the immi-
grants hanging to it, and on a side-table were
the six yellow basins that had been used for
the men's breakfasts. During my visit, the
neighbours, having observed a strange gentle-
man enter, came pouring in, each proferring
some fresh bit of news about their newly-
arrived countrymen. I was nearly stunned by
half-a-dozen voices speaking together, and tell-
ing me how the poor people had been four days
"at say," so that they were glad to get near the
pigs for "warrumth," and instructing me as to
the best manner of laying out the sum of
money that it was supposed I was about to
shower down upon the immigrants.
In one of the worst class of lodging-houses I
found ten human beings living together in a
small room. The apartment was entirely de-
void of all furniture, excepting an old mattrass
rolled up against the wall, and a dirty piece of
cloth hung across one corner, to screen the
women whilst dressing. An old man, the father
of five out of the ten, was seated on a tea-chest,
mending shoes, and the other men were looking
on with their hands in their pockets. Two
girls and a woman were huddled together on
the floor in front of the fire, talking in Irish.
All these people seemed to be utterly devoid
of energy, and the men moved about so lazily
After I had left, the young fellow who had
acted as spokesman followed me into the street,
and taking me into a corner, told me that he
was a "sailor by thrade, but had lost his ` rigis-
thration-ticket,' or he'd have got a berruth long
since, and that it was all for 3s. 6d. he wasn't
at say."
Concerning the number of Irish immigrants,
I have obtained the following information:
The great influx of the Irish into London
was in the year of the famine, 1847-8. This
cannot be better shown than by citing the re-
turns of the number of persons admitted into
the Asylum for the Houseless Poor, in Play-
house-yard, Cripplegate. These returns I ob-
tained for fourteen years, and the average num-
ber of admissions of the applicants from all
parts during that time was 8,794 yearly. Of
these, the Irish averaged 2,455 yearly, or con-
siderably more than a fourth of the whole
number received. The total number of ap-
plicants thus sheltered in the fourteen years was
130,625, of which the Irish numbered 34,378.
The smallest number of Irish (men, women,
and children) admitted, was in 1834-5, about
300; in 1846-7, it was as many as 7,576, while
in 1847-8, it was 10,756, and in 1848-9, 5,068.
But it was into Liverpool that the tide of im-
migration flowed the strongest, in the calamitous
year of the famine. "Between the 13th Jan,
and the 13th Dec., both inclusive," writes Mr.
Rushton, the Liverpool magistrate, to Sir G.
Grey, on the 21st April last, "296,231 persons
landed in this port (Liverpool) from Ireland.
Of this vast number, about 130,000 emigrated to
Column 2
the United States; some 50,000 were passen-
gers on business; and the remainder (161,231),
mere paupers, half-naked and starving, landed,
for the most part, during the winter, and became,
immediately on landing, applicants for parochial
relief. You already know the immediate results
of this accumulation of misery in the crowded
town of Liverpool; of the cost of relief at once
rendered necessary to prevent the thousands of
hungry and naked Irish perishing in our streets;
and also of the cost of the pestilence which
generally follows in the train of famine and
misery such as we then had to encounter.....
Hundreds of patients perished, notwithstanding
all efforts made to save them; and ten Roman
Catholic and one Protestant clergyman, many
parochial officers, and many medical men, who
devoted themselves to the task of alleviating the
sufferings of the wretched, died in the discharge
of these high duties."
Great numbers of these people were, at the
same time, also conveyed from Ireland to Wales,
especially to Newport. They were brought over
by coal-vessels as a return cargo -- a living ballast
-- 2s. 6d. being the highest fare, and were huddled
together like pigs. The manager of the Newport
tramp-house has stated concerning these people,
"They don't live long, diseased as they are.
They are very remarkable; they will eat salt
by basons-full, and drink a great quantity of
water after. I have frequently known those
who could not have been hungry eat cabbage-
leaves and other refuse from the ash-heap."
It is necessary that I should thus briefly
allude to this matter, as there is no doubt that
some of these people, making their way to
London, soon became street-sellers there, and
many of them took to the business subse-
quently, when there was no employment in
harvesting, hop-picking, &c. Of the poor
wretches landed at Liverpool, many (Mr.
Rushton states) became beggars, and many
thieves. Many, there is no doubt, tramped
their way to London, sleeping at the "casual
wards" of the Unions on their way; but I believe
that of those who had become habituated to the
practice of beggary or theft, few or none would
follow the occupation of street-selling, as even
the half-passive industry of such a calling
would be irksome to the apathetic and dis-
honest.
Of the immigration, direct by the vessels
trading from Ireland to London, there are no
returns such has have been collected by Mr.
Rushton for Liverpool, but the influx is com-
paratively small, on account of the greater
length and cost of the voyage. During
the last year I am informed that 15,000 or
16,000 passengers were brought from Ireland
to London direct, and, in addition to these, 500
more were brought over from Cork in connec-
tion with the arrangements for emigration to the
United States, and consigned to the emigration
agent here. Of the 15,500 (taking the mean
between the two numbers above given) 1,000
emigrated to the United States. It appears,
The diet of the Irish men, women, and children, who obtain a livelihood (or what is so designated) by street-sale in London, has, I am told, on good authority, experienced a change. In the lodg- ing-houses that they resorted to, their breakfast, two or three years ago, was a dish of potatoes -- two, three, or four lbs., or more, in weight -- for a family. Now half an ounce of coffee (half chi- cory) costs ½d., and that, with the half or quarter of a loaf, according to the number in family, is almost always their breakfast at the present time. When their constant diet was potatoes, there were frequent squabbles at the lodging-houses -- to which many of the poor Irish on their first arrival resort -- as to whether the potato- pot or the tea-kettle should have the prefer- ence on the fire. A man of superior intelli- gence, who had been driven to sleep and eat occasionally in lodging-houses, told me of some dialogues he had heard on these occasions: -- "It's about three years ago," he said, "since I heard a bitter old Englishwoman say, `To -- with your 'taty-pot; they're only meat for pigs.' `Sure, thin,' said a young Irishman -- he was a nice 'cute fellow -- `sure, thin, ma'am, I should be afther offering you a taste.' I heard that myself, sir. You may have noticed, that when an Irishman doesn't get out of temper, he never loses his politeness, or rather his blarney."
The dinner, or second meal of the day --
assuming that there has been a breakfast --
ordinarily consists of cheap fish and potatoes.
Of the diet of the poor street-Irish I had
an account from a little Irishman, then keep-
ing an oyster-stall, though he generally sold
fruit. In all such details I have found the
Column 2
Irish far more communicative than the English.
Many a poor untaught Englishman will shrink
from speaking of his spare diet, and his trouble
to procure that; a reserve, too, much more
noticeable among the men than the women.
My Irish informant told me he usually had his
breakfast at a lodging-house -- he preferred a
lodging-house, he said, on account of the
warmth and the society. Here he boiled half
an ounce of coffee, costing a ½d. He pur-
chased of his landlady the fourth of a quartern
loaf (1¼d. or 1½d.), for she generally cut a
quartern loaf into four for her single men
lodgers, such as himself, clearing sometimes a
farthing or two thereby. For dinner, my
informant boiled at the lodging-house two or
three lbs. of potatoes, costing usually 1d. or 1¼d., and fried three, or four herrings, or as many
as cost a penny. He sometimes mashed his
potatoes, and spread over them the herrings, the
fatty portion of which flavoured the potatoes,
which were further flavoured by the roes of the
herrings being crushed into them. He drank
water to this meal, and the cost of the whole
was 2d. or 2½d. A neighbouring stall-keeper
attended to this man's stock in his absence at
dinner, and my informant did the same for
him in his turn. For "tea" he expended 1d. on coffee, or 1½d. on tea, being a "cup" of
tea, or "half-pint of coffee," at a coffee-shop.
Sometimes he had a halfpenny-worth of butter,
and with his tea he ate the bread he had saved
from his breakfast, and which he had carried in
his pocket. He had no butter to his breakfast,
he said, for he could not buy less than a penny-
worth about where he lodged, and this was too
dear for one meal. On a Sunday morning how-
ever he generally had butter, sometimes joining
with a fellow-lodger for a pennyworth; for his
Sunday dinner he had a piece of meat, which
cost him 2d. on the Saturday night. Supper
he dispensed with, but if he felt much tired
he had a half-pint of beer, which was three
farthings "in his own jug," before he went to
bed, about nine or ten, as he did little or
nothing late at night, except on Saturday.
He thus spent 4½d. a day for food, and reckon-
ing 2½d. extra for somewhat better fare on a
Sunday, his board was 2s. 10d. a week. His
earnings he computed at 5s., and thus he had
2s. 2d. weekly for other expenses. Of these
there was 1s. for lodging; 2d. or 3d. for
washing (but this not every week); ½d. for a
Sunday morning's shave; 1d. "for his reli-
gion" (as he worded it); and 6d. for "odds
and ends," such as thread to mend his clothes,
a piece of leather to patch his shoes, worsted
to darn his stockings, &c. He was subject to
rheumatism, or "he might have saved a trifle
of money." Judging by his methodical habits,
it was probable he had done so. He had
nothing of the eloquence of his countrymen,
and seemed indeed of rather a morose turn.
A family boarding together live even cheaper
than this man, for more potatoes and less fish
fall to the share of the children. A meal too is
From what I can ascertain, the Irish street-
seller can always live at about half the cost
of the English costermonger; the Englishman
must have butter for his bread, and meat at no
long intervals, for he "hates fish more than
once a week." It is by this spareness of
living, as well as by frequently importunate
and mendacious begging, that the street-Irish
manage to save money.
The diet I have spoken of is generally, but
not universally, that of the poor street-Irish;
those who live differently, do not, as a rule,
incur greater expense.
It is difficult to ascertain in what proportion
the Irish street-sellers consume strong drink,
when compared with the consumption of the
English costers; as a poor Irishman, if ques-
tioned on that or any subject, will far more
frequently shape his reply to what he thinks will
please his querist and induce a trifle for himself,
than answer according to the truth. The land-
lord of a large public-house, after inquiring of
his assistants, that his opinions might be checked
by theirs, told me that in one respect there was
a marked difference between the beer-drinking
of the two people. He considered that in the
poor streets near his house there were residing
quite as many Irish street-sellers and labourers
as English, but the instances in which the Irish
conveyed beer to their own rooms, as a portion
of their meals, was not as 1 in 20 compared
with the English: "I have read your work,
sir," he said, "and I know that you are quite
right in saying that the costermongers go for a
good Sunday dinner. I don't know what my
customers are except by their appearance, but I
do know that many are costermongers, and by the
best of all proofs, for I have bought fish, fruit,
and vegetables of them. Well, now, we'll take
a fine Sunday in spring or summer, when times
are pretty good with them; and, perhaps, in the
ten minutes after my doors are opened at one on
the Sunday, there are 100 customers for their
dinner-beer. Nearly three-quarters of these are
working men and their wives, working either in
the streets, or at their indoor trades, such as
tailoring. But among the number, I'm satis-
fied, there are not more than two Irishmen.
There may be three or four Irishwomen, but one
of my barmen tells me he knows that two of
them -- very well-behaved and good-looking
women -- are married to Englishmen. In my
Column 2
opinion the proportion, as to Sunday dinner-
beer, between English and Irish, may be two
or three in 70."
An Irish gentleman and his wife, who are
both well acquainted with the habits and con-
dition of the people in their own country, in-
formed me, that among the classes who,
though earning only scant incomes, could
not well be called "impoverished," the use
of beer, or even of small ale -- known, now
or recently -- as "Thunder's thruppeny," was
very unfrequent. Even in many " independ-
ent" families, only water is drunk at din-
ner, with punch to follow. This shows the
accuracy of the information I derived from
Mr. -- (the innkeeper), for persons unused to
the drinking of malt liquor in their own coun-
try are not likely to resort to it afterwards,
when their means are limited. I was further
informed, that reckoning the teetotallers among
the English street-sellers at 300, there are 600
among the Irish, -- teetotallers too, who, having
taken the pledge, under the sanction of their
priests, and looking upon it as a religious ob-
ligation, keep it rigidly.
The Irish street-sellers who frequent the gin-
palaces or public-houses, drink a pot of beer, in
a company of three or four, but far more fre-
quently, a quartern of gin (very seldom whisky)
oftener than do the English. Indeed, from all
I could ascertain, the Irish street-sellers, whe-
ther from inferior earnings, their early training,
or the restraints of their priests, drink less beer,
by one-fourth, than their English brethren, but
a larger proportion of gin. "And you must bear
this in mind, sir," I was told by an innkeeper,
"I had rather have twenty poor Englishmen
drunk in my tap-room than a couple of poor
Irishmen. They'll quarrel with anybody --
the Irish will -- and sometimes clear the room
by swearing they'll `use their knives, by Jasus;'
and if there's a scuffle they'll kick like devils,
and scratch, and bite, like women or cats, in-
stead of using their fists. I wish all the drunk-
ards were teetotallers, if it were only to be rid
of them."
Whiskey, I was told, would be drunk by the
Irish, in preference to gin, were it not that gin
was about half the price. One old Irish fruit-
seller -- who admitted that he was fond of a
glass of gin -- told me that he had not tasted
whiskey for fourteen years, "becase of the
price." The Irish, moreover, as I have shown,
live on stronger and coarser food than the
English, buying all the rough (bad) fish, for, to
use the words of one of my informants, they
look to quantity more than quality; this may
account for their preferring a stronger and fiercer
stimulant by way of drink.
themselves how they raise their stock-money,
for their command of money is a subject on
The more usual custom is, that if a poor Irish
street-seller be in want of 5s., it is lent to him
by the more prosperous people of his court --
bricklayers' labourers, or other working-men --
who club 1s. a piece. This is always repaid.
An Irish bricklayer, when in full work, will
trust a needy countryman with some article to
pledge, on the understanding that it is to be
redeemed and returned when the borrower is
able. Sometimes, if a poor Irishwoman need 1s. to buy oranges, four others -- only less poor than
herself, because not utterly penniless -- will
readily advance 3d. each. Money is also ad-
vanced to the deserving Irish through the
agency of the Roman Catholic priests, who are
the medium through whom charitable persons
of their own faith exercise good offices. Money,
too, there is no doubt, is often advanced out of
the priest's own pocket.
On all the kinds of loans with which the poor
Irish are aided by their countrymen no interest
is over charged. "I don't like the Irish,"
said an English costermonger to me; "but they
do stick to one another far more than we do."
The Irish costers hire barrows and shallows
like the English, but, if they "get on" at
all, they will possess themselves of their own
vehicles much sooner than an English coster-
monger. A quick-witted Irishman will begin
to ponder on his paying 1s. 6d. a week for
the hire of a barrow worth 20s., and he will
save and hoard until a pound is at his com-
mand to purchase one for himself; while an
obtuse English coster (who will yet buy cheaper
than an Irishman) will probably pride himself
on his cleverness in having got the charge for
his barrow reduced, in the third year of its hire,
to 1s. a week the twelvemonth round!
In cases of sickness the mode of relief
adopted is similar to that of the English. A
raffle is got up for the benefit of the Irish
sufferer, and, if it be a bad case, the subscribers
pay their money without caring what trifle they
throw for, or whether they throw at all. If
sickness continue and such means as raffles
cannot be persevered in, there is one resource
from which a poor Irishman never shrinks -- the
parish. He will apply for and accept paro-
chial relief without the least sense of shame,
a sense which rarely deserts an English-
man who has been reared apart from pau-
pers. The English costers appear to have a
horror of the Union. If the Irishman be
taken into the workhouse, his friends do not
lose sight of him. In case of his death, they
apply for, and generally receive his body,
from the parochial authorities, undertaking the
Column 2
expence of the funeral, when the body is duly
"waked." "I think there's a family contract
among the Irish," said a costermonger to me;
"that's where it is."
The Irish street-folk are, generally speaking,
a far more provident body of people than the
English street-sellers. To save, the Irish will
often sacrifice what many Englishmen consider
a necessary, and undergo many a hardship.
From all I could ascertain, the saving of
an Irish street-seller does not arise from any
wish to establish himself more prosperously in
his business, but for the attainment of some
cherished project, such as emigration. Some
of the objects, however, for which these strug-
gling men hoard money, are of the most praise-
worthy character. They will treasure up half-
penny after halfpenny, and continue to do so
for years, in order to send money to enable their
wives and children, and even their brothers and
sisters, when in the depth of distress in Ireland,
to take shipping for England. They will save
to be able to remit money for the relief of their
aged parents in Ireland. They will save to
defray the expense of their marriage, an expense
the English costermonger so frequently dispenses
with -- but they will not save to preserve either
themselves or their children from the degra-
dation of a workhouse; indeed they often,
with the means of independence secreted on
their persons, apply for parish relief, and that
principally to save the expenditure of their
own money. Even when detected in such an
attempt at extortion an Irishman betrays no
passion, and hardly manifests any emotion -- he
has speculated and failed. Not one of them
but has a positive genius for begging -- both the
taste and the faculty for alms-seeking developed
to an extraordinary extent.
Of the amount "saved" by the patience of
the poor Irishmen, I can form no conjecture.
as truthful as possible, I obtained permission to
use the name of a Roman Catholic clergyman,
to whom I am indebted for much valuable
information touching this part of my subject.
A young woman, of whose age it was not easy
to form a conjecture, her features were so em-
browned by exposure to the weather, and per-
haps when I saw her a little swollen from cold,
gave me the following account as to her living.
Her tone and manner betrayed indifference to
the future, caused perhaps by ignorance, -- for
uneducated persons I find are apt to look on
the future as if it must needs be but a repe-
tition of the present, while the past in many
instances is little more than a blank to them.
This young woman said, her brogue being little
perceptible, though she spoke thickly:
"I live by keepin' this fruit stall. It's a poor
livin' when I see how others live. Yes, in
thruth, sir, but it's thankful I am for to be able
One Irish street-seller I saw informed me
that she was a "widdy wid three childer."
Her husband died about four years since.
She had then five children, and was near her
confinement with another. Since the death of
her husband she had lost three of her children;
a boy about twelve years died of stoppage on
his lungs, brought on, she said, through being
in the streets, and shouting so loud "to get sale
of the fruit." She has been in Clare-street,
Clare-market, seven years with a fruit stall.
In the summer she sells green fruit, which she
purchases at Covent-garden. When the nuts,
oranges, &c., come in season, she furnishes
her stall with that kind of fruit, and continues
to sell them until the spring salad comes in.
During the spring and summer her weekly
average income is about 5s., but the remaining
portion of the year her income is not more
than 3s. 6d. weekly, so that taking the year
through, her average weekly income is about
4s. 3a.; out of this she pays 1s. 6d. a week rent,
leaving only 2s. 9d. a week to find necessary
comforts for herself and family. For fuel the
Column 2
children go to the market and gather up the
waste walnuts, bring them home and dry them,
and these, with a pennyworth of coal and coke,
serve to warm their chilled feet and hands. They
have no bedstead, but in one corner of a room is
a flock bed upon the floor, with an old sheet,
blanket, and quilt to cover them at this incle-
ment season. There is neither chair nor table;
a stool serves for the chair, and two pieces of
board upon some baskets do duty for a table,
and an old penny tea-canister for a candlestick.
She had parted with every article of furniture
to get food for her family. She received nothing
from the parish, but depended upon the sale of
her fruit for her living.
The Irishmen who are in this trade are also
very poor; and I learned that both Irishmen
and Irishwomen left the occupation now and
then, and took to begging, as a more profitable
calling, often going begging this month and
fruit-selling the next. This is one of the
causes which prompt the London costermon-
gers' dislike of the Irish. "They'll beg them-
selves into a meal, and work us out of one,"
said an English coster to me. Some of them
are, however, less "poverty-struck" (a word
in common use among the costermongers);
but these for the most part are men who have
been in the trade for some years, and have got
regular "pitches."
The woman who gave me the following state-
ment seemed about twenty-two or twenty-three.
She was large-boned, and of heavy figure and
deportment. Her complexion and features were
both coarse, but her voice had a softness, even in
its broadest brogue, which is not very frequent
among poor Irishwomen. The first sentence she
uttered seems to me tersely to embody a deplor-
able history of the poverty of a day. It was
between six and seven in the evening when I
saw the poor creature: --
"Sure, thin, sir, it's thrippince I've taken to-
day, and tuppince is to pay for my night's lodg-
in'. I shall do no more good to-night, and shall
only stay in the cowld, if I stay in it, for nothing.
I'm an orphand, sir," (she three or four times
alluded to this circumstance,) "and there's no-
body to care for me but God, glory be to his
name! I came to London to join my brother,
that had come over and did will, and he sint for
me, but whin I got here I couldn't find him in
it anyhow. I don't know how long that's ago.
It may be five years; it may be tin; but" (she
added, with the true eloquence of beggary,)
"sure, thin, sir, I had no harrut to keep count,
if I knew how. My father and mother wasn't
able to keep me, nor to keep thimsilves in
Ireland, and so I was sint over here. They was
counthry payple. I don't know about their
landlorrud. They died not long afther I came
here. I don't know what they died of, but sure
it was of the will of God, and they hadn't much
to make them love this worruld; no more have
I. Would I like to go back to my own counthry?
Will, thin, what would be the use? I sleep
at a lodging-house, and it's a dacint place.
There still remains to be described one branch of the Irish street-trade which is peculiar to the class -- viz., the sale of "refuse," or such fruit and vegetables as are damaged, and suited only to the very poorest purchasers.
In assorting his goods, a fruit-salesman in
the markets generally throws to one side the
shrivelled, dwarfish, or damaged fruit -- called
by the street-traders the "specks." If the
supply to the markets be large, as in the pride
of the season, he will put his several kinds of
specks in separate baskets. At other times
all kinds are tossed together, and sometimes
with an admixture of nuts and walnuts. The
Irish women purchase these at a quarter, or
within a quarter, of the regular price, paying
from 6d. to 1s. a bushel for apples; 9d. to
1s. 6d. for pears; 1s. 6d. to 2s. 6d. for plums.
They are then sorted into halfpenny-worths for
sale on the stalls. Among the refuse is always
a portion of what is called "tidy" fruit, and this
occupies the prominent place in the "halfpenny
lots" -- for they are usually sold at a halfpenny.
Sometimes, too, a salesman will throw in among
the refuse a little good fruit, if he happen to
have it over, either gratuitously or at the refuse
price; and this, of course, is always made the
most conspicuous on the stalls. Of other fruits,
perhaps, only a small portion is damaged, from
over-ripeness, or by the aggression of wasps and
insects, the remainder being very fine, so that
the retail "lots" are generally cheap. The
sellers aim at "half profits," or cent. per cent.
The "refuse" trade in fruit -- and the refuse-
trade is mainly confined to fruit -- is principally
in the hands of the Irish. The persons carrying
it on are nearly all middle-aged and elderly
women. I once or twice saw a delicate and
pretty-looking girl sitting with the old "re-
Column 2
fuse" women; but I found that she was not
a "regular hand," and only now and then
"minded the stall" in her mother's absence.
She worked with her needle, I was told.
Of the women who confine themselves to
this trade there are never less than twenty,
and frequently thirty. Sometimes, when the
refuse is very cheap and very abundant, as
many as 100 fruit-sellers, women and girls, will
sell it in halfpenny-worths, along with better
articles. These women also sell refuse dry-
fruit, purchased in Duke's-place, but only
when they cannot obtain green-fruit, or cannot
obtain it sufficiently. All is sold at stalls; as
these dealers seem to think that if it were
hawked, the police might look too inquisitively
at a barrow stocked with refuse. The " refuse-
sellers" buy at all the markets. The poorer
street-sellers, whose more staple trade is in
oranges or nuts, are occasional dealers in it.
Perhaps the regular refuse-buyers are not
among the very poorest class, as their sale is
tolerably quick and certain, but with the usual
drawbacks of wet weather. They make, I
was told, from 4d. to 1s. a day the year round,
or perhaps 7d. or 8d. a day, Sunday included.
They are all Roman Catholics, and resort
to the street-sale after mass. They are mostly
widows, or women who have reached mid-
dle-age, unmarried. Some are the wives of
street-sellers. Two of their best pitches are
on Saffron-hill and in Petticoat-lane. It is
somewhat curious to witness these women
sitting in a line of five or six, and notwith-
standing their natural garrulity, hardly ex-
changing a word one with another. Some of
them derive an evident solace from deliberate
puffs at a short black pipe.
A stout, healthy-looking woman of this class
said: -- "Sure thin, sir, I've sat and sould my
bit of fruit in this place, or near it, for twinty
year and more, as is very well known indeed,
is it. I could make twice the money twinty
year ago that I can now, for the boys had the
ha'pinnies more thin than they has now, more's
the pity. The childer is my custhomers, very
few beyant -- such as has only a ha'pinny now
and thin, God hilp them. They'll come a mile
from any parrut, to spind it with such as me, for
they know it's chape we sill! Yis, indeed, or
they'll come with a fardin either, for it's a
ha'pinny lot we'll split for them any time. The
boys buys most, but they're dridful tazes. It's
the patience of the divil must be had to dale
wid the likes of thim. They was dridful about
the Pope, but they've tired of it now. O, no,
it wasn't the boys of my counthry that de-
maned themselves that way. Well, I make
4d. some days, and 6d. some, and 1s. 6d. some,
and I have made 3s. 6d., and I have made
nothing. Perhaps I make 5s. or 6s. a week
rigular, but I'm established and well-known
you see."
The quantity of refuse at the metropolitan
"green" markets varies with the different de-
scriptions of fruit. Of apples it averages one-
The Irish street-sellers, I am informed, buy
full two-thirds of all the refuse, the other third
being purchased by the lower class of English
costermongers -- "the illegitimates," -- as they
are called. We must not consider the sale of
the damaged fruit so great an evil as it would,
at the first blush, appear, for it constitutes per-
haps the sole luxury of poor children, as well
as of the poor themselves, who, were it not for
the halfpenny and farthing lots of the refuse-
sellers, would doubtlessly never know the taste
of such things.
Before leaving this part of the subject, it may
be as well to say a few words concerning the
curious revelations made by the returns from
Billingsgate, Covent-garden, and the other Lon-
don markets, as to the diet of the poor. In the
first place, then, it appears that in the matter
of fish, herrings constitute the chief article
of consumption -- no less than 210,000,000 lbs.
weight of this fish in a "fresh" state, and
60,000,000 lbs. in a "dried" state, being an-
nually eaten by the humbler classes of the
metropolis and the suburbs. Of sprats there
are 3,000,000 lbs. weight consumed -- and these,
with the addition of plaice, are the staple
comestibles at the dinners and suppers of the
ichthyophagous part of the labouring popu-
lation of London. One of the reasons for this
is doubtless the extraordinary cheapness of
these kinds of fish. The sprats are sold at a
penny per pound; the herrings at the same
rate; and the plaice at a fraction less, per-
haps; whereas a pound of butcher's meat, even
"pieces," or the "block ornaments," as they are
sometimes called, cannot be got for less than
twopence-halfpenny or threepence. But the
relative cheapness of these two kinds of food
can only be tested by the proportionate quantity
of nutrition in each. According to Liebig,
butcher's meat contains 26 per cent. of solid
matter, and 74 per cent. of water; whereas, ac-
cording to Brande, fish consists of 20 parts of
solid matter, and 80 parts water in every 100.
Hence it would appear that butcher's meat
is five per cent more nutritive than fish -- or,
in other words, that if the two were equally
cheap, the prices, according to the quantity of
nutrition in each, should be for fish one penny
per pound, and butcher's meat not five farthings;
so that even at twopence-halfpenny the pound,
meat is more than twice as dear an article of diet
as fish.
But it is not only on account of their cheap-
ness that herrings and sprats are consumed in
such vast quantities by the labouring people of
London. Salmon, eels, herrings, pilchards, and
Column 2
sprats, Dr. Pereira tells us, abound in oil; and
oleaginous food, according to Leibig, is an
"element of respiration," consisting of nearly
80 per cent. charcoal, which burns away in the
lungs, and so contributes to the warmth of
the system. Fat, indeed, may be said to act as
fuel to the vital fire; and we now know, from
observations made upon the average daily con-
sumption of food by 28 soldiers of the Grand
Duke of Hesse Darmstadt, in barracks, for a
month -- which is the same as 840 men for one
day -- that an adult taking moderate exercise
consumes, in the act of respiration, very nearly
a pound of charcoal every day, which of course
must be supplied in his food. "But persons
who take much exercise, or labour hard," says
Dr. Pereira, "require more frequent and copi-
ous meals than the indolent or sedentary. In
the active man the number of respirations is
greater than in the inactive, and therefore a
more frequent supply of food is required to
furnish the increased quantity of carbon and
hydrogen to be consumed in the lungs." "A
bird deprived of food," says Liebig, "dies on
the third day; while a serpent, with its sluggish
respiration, can live without food three months,
or longer."
Captain Parry, in his account of one of the
Polar expeditions (1827), states, that both him-
self and Mr. Beverley, the surgeon, were of
opinion, that, in order to maintain the strength
of the men during their harassing journey across
the ice, living constantly in the open air, and
exposed to the wet and cold for twelve hours a
day, an addition was requisite of at least one-
third to the quantity of provisions daily issued.
So, in the gaol dietaries, the allowance to prison-
ers sentenced to hard labour for three months is
one-third more than the scale for those sentenced
to hard labour for three days -- the former hav-
ing 254 ounces, and the latter only 168 ounces
of solid food served out to them every week.
But the hard-working poor not only require
more food than the non-working rich, but it is
mainly because the rich are better fed that they
are more lethargic than the poor; for the greater
the supply of nutriment to the body, the more
inactive does the system become. From experi-
ments made a few years ago at the Zoological
Gardens, it was found, that, by feeding the ani-
mals twice, instead of once, in the twenty-four
hours, their habits, as regards exercise, were
altered -- a fact which readily explains how the
fat and overfed are always the least energetic;
fat being at once the cause and consequence of
inaction. It is well to hear an obese citizen tell
a hollow-cheeked man, who begs a penny of
him, "to go and work -- a lazy scoundrel;" but
physiology assures us that the fat tradesman
is naturally the laziest of the two. In a word,
he is fat because he is lazy, and lazy because he
is fat.
The industrious poor, however, not only re-
quire more food than the indolent rich, but, get-
ting less, they become more susceptible of cold,
and, therefore, more eager for all that tends to
The returns as to the other articles of food
sold in the streets are equally curious. The
1,500,000l. spent yearly in fish, and the compa-
ratively small amount expended on vegetables,
viz., 290,000l., is a circumstance which seems to
show that the labouring population of London
have a greater relish for animal than vegetable
diet. "It is quite certain," says Dr. Carpenter,
"that the most perfect physical development
and the greatest intellectual vigour are to be
found among those races in which a mixed diet
of animal and vegetable food is the prevalent
habit." And yet, in apparent contradiction
to the proposition asserted with so much confi-
dence by Dr. Carpenter, we have the following
curious fact cited by Mr. Jacob Bentley: --
"It is, indeed, a fact worthy of remark, and one
that seems never to have been noticed, that through-
out the whole animal creation, in every country and
clime of the earth the most useful animals cost nature
the least waste to sustain them with food. For in-
Column 2
stance, all animals that work, live on vegetable or
fruit food; and no animal that eats flesh, works. The
all-powerful elephant, and the patient, untiring camel
in the torrid zone; the horse, the ox, or the donkey in
the temperate, and the rein-deer in the frigid zone;
obtain all their muscular power for enduring labour,
from Nature's simplest productions, -- the vegetable
kingdom."But all the flesh-eating animals, keep the rest of
the animated creation in constant dread of them.
They seldom eat vegetable food till some other animal
has eaten it first, and made it into flesh. Their only
use seems to be, to destroy life; their own flesh is
unfit for other animals to eat, having been itself made
out of flesh, and is most foul and offensive. Great
strength, fleetness of foot, usefulness, cleanliness and
docility, are then always characteristic of vegetable-
eating animals, while all the world dreads flesh-
eaters."
Of vegetables we have seen that the greatest
quantity consumed by the poor consists of
potatoes, of which 60,500,000 lbs. are annually
sold in the streets; but ten pounds of potatoes
are only equal in nutritive power to one pound of
butcher's meat, which contains one-fifth more
solid food than fish, -- so that a pound of fish
may be said to equal eight pounds of potatoes,
and thus the 60,000,000 lbs. of vegetable is
dietetically equivalent to nearly 7,000,000
lbs. of fish diet. The cost of the potatoes,
at five pounds for 2d., is, as we have seen,
100,000l.; whereas the cost of the same amount
of nutritive matter in the form of fish, at 1d. per
pound, would have been only 30,000l., or up-
wards of two-thirds less. The vegetable of
which there is the next greatest street sale is
onions, upon which 90,000l. are annually ex-
pended. This has been before accounted for,
by saying, that a piece of bread and an onion are
to the English labourer what bread and grapes
are to the Frenchman -- oftentimes a meal. The
relish for onions by the poorer classes is not
difficult to explain. Onions are strongly stimu-
lating substances, and they owe their peculiar
odour and flavour, as well as their pungent and
stimulating qualities, to an acrid volatile oil
which contains sulphur. This oil becomes
absorbed, quickens the circulation, and occasions
thirst. The same result takes place with the
oil of fish. It not only proves a stimulant to
the general system, but we are told that the
thirst and uneasy feeling at the stomach, fre-
quently experienced after the use of the richer
species of fish, have led to the employment of
spirit to this kind of food. Hence, says Dr.
Pereira, the vulgar proverb, "Brandy is Latin
for Fish." Moreover, the two classes of food
are similar in their comparative indigestibility,
for the uneducated palates of the poor not only
require a more pungent kind of diet, but their
stronger stomachs need something that will
resist the action of the gastric juice for a con-
siderable time. Hence their love of shell-fish.
The small quantity of fruit, too, sold to the
poor is a further proof of what is here stated.
The amount of the street sale of this luxury is
no criterion as to the quantity purchased by the
London labourers; for according to all accounts
the fruit-buyers in the streets consist mostly of
clerks, shopmen, small tradesmen, and the chil-
I have no means of ascertaining the average
number of ounces of solid food consumed by the
poorer class of the metropolis. The whole of
the fish, fruit, and vegetables, sold to the London
costermongers, is not disposed of in the London
streets -- many of the street-sellers going, as we
have seen, country excursions with their goods.
According to the result of the Government
Commissioners of Inquiry, the labourers in the
country are unable to procure for themselves
and families an average allowance of more than
122 ounces of solid food -- principally bread --
every week; hence it has been justly said we
may infer that the man consumes, as his
share, 140 ounces (134 bread and 6 meat).
The gaol dietaries allow 254 ounces, or nearly
twice as much to all prisoners, who undergo
continuous hard labour. In the construction of
these dietaries Sir James Graham -- the then
Secretary of State -- says, in his "Letter to the
Chairman of Quarter Sessions" (January 27th,
1843), "I have consulted not only the Prison
Inspectors, but medical men of the greatest
eminence possessing the advantage of long
experience." They are proposed, he adds, "as
the minimum amount which can be safely
afforded to prisoners without the risk of inflict-
ing a punishment not contemplated by law and
which it is unjust and cruel to inflict; namely,
loss of health and strength through the inade-
quacy of the food supplied." Hence it appears
not that the thief gets too much, but the honest
Column 2
working man too little -- or, in other words, that
the labourer of this country is able to pro-
cure, by his industry, only half the quantity of
food that is considered by "medical men of
the greatest eminence" to be "the minimum amount" that can be safely afforded for the
support of the criminals -- a fact which it would
be out of place to comment upon here.
One word concerning the incomes of the Lon-
don costermongers, and I have done. It has been
before shown that the gross sum of money taken yearly, in the streets, by the sale of fish, fruit,
and vegetables, amounts, in round numbers,
to two million pounds -- a million and a half
being expended in fish, and a quarter of a
million upon fruit and vegetables respectively.
In estimating the yearly receipts of the coster-
mongers, from their average gains, the gross
"takings" of the entire body were concluded to
be between a million and a quarter and a million
and a half sterling -- that is to say, each one of
the 10,000 street-sellers of fish, fruit, and vege-
tables, was supposed to clear ten shillings a
week all the year through, and to take fifty
shillings. But, according to the returns fur-
nished me by the salesmen, at the several metro-
politan markets, the weekly "takings" of the
ten thousand men and their families -- for often
both wife and children sell -- cannot be less than
four pounds per week all the year round, out
of which it would seem that the clear weekly
gains are about fifteen shillings. (Some costers
we have seen take pounds in a day, others -- as
the nut and orange-women and children -- only
a few shillings a week; some, again, make cent.
per cent. profit, whilst others are obliged to sell
at a loss.) This, from all I can gather, as well
as from a comparison of the coster's style of
living with other classes whose weekly income
is nearly the same, appears to be very close
upon the truth.
We may then, I think, safely assert, that the
gross yearly receipts of the London coster-
mongers are two millions of money; that their
clear annual gain, or income, is 425,000l.; and
that the capital invested in their business, in
the form of donkey-carts, barrows, baskets,
weights, and stock-money, is 25,000l.; -- half of
this being borrowed, for which they pay upwards
of 20,000l. interest per annum.
The class who sell game and poultry in the public thoroughfares of the metropolis are styled hawkers, both in Leadenhall and Newgate-mar- ket. The number of these dealers in London is computed at between 200 and 300. Of course, legally to sell game, a license, which costs 2l. 2s. yearly, is required; but the street-seller laughs at the notion of being subjected to a direct tax; which, indeed, it might be impossible to levy on so "slippery" a class.
The sale of game, even with a license, was not
legalised until 1831; and, prior to that year, the
mere killing of game by an "unqualified" per-
son was an offence entailing heavy penalties.
The "qualification" consisted of the possession
of a freehold estate of 100l. a year, or a leasehold
for ninety-nine years of 150l. a year! By an
Act, passed in the 25th year of George III., it
was provided that a certificate (costing 3l. 13s. 6d.) must be taken out by all qualified persons
Both sexes carry on the trade in game-hawk-
ing, but there are more than thrice as many men
as women engaged in the business, the weight
occasionally carried being beyond a woman's
strength. The most customary dress of the game
or poultry-hawker is a clean smock-frock cover-
ing the whole of his other attire, except the ends
of his trousers and his thick boots or shoes. In-
deed he often, but less frequently than was the
case five years ago, assumes the dress of a country
labourer, although he may have been for years
a resident in London. About forty years ago, I
am informed, it was the custom for countrymen,
residing at no great distance, to purchase a stock
of chickens or ducks; and, taking their places
in a wagon, to bring their birds to London,
and hawk them from door to door. Some of
these men's smock-frocks were a convenient
garb, for they covered the ample pockets of the
coat beneath, in which were often a store of par-
tridges, or an occasional pheasant or hare. This
game, illegally killed -- for it was all poached --
was illegally sold by the hawker, and illegally
bought by the hotel-keepers and the richer
tradesmen. One informant (an old man) was of
opinion that the game was rarely offered for sale
by these countrymen at the West-end mansions
of the aristocracy. "In fact," he said, "I knew
one country fellow -- though he was sharp enough
in his trade of game and poultry-selling -- who
seemed to think that every fine house, without a
shop, and where there were livery servants, must
needs be inhabited by a magistrate! But, as
the great props of poaching were the rich -- for,
of course, the poor couldn't buy game -- there
was, no doubt, a West-end as well as a City trade
in it. I have bought game of a country poul-
try-hawker," continued my informant, "when
I lived in the City at the beginning of this cen-
tury, and generally gave 3s. 6d. a brace for
partridges. I have bid it, and the man has left,
refusing to take it; and has told me afterwards,
and, I dare say, he spoke the truth, that he had
sold his partridges at 5s. or 6s. or more. I be-
lieve 5s. a brace was no uncommon price in the
City. I have given as much as 10s. for a phea-
sant for a Christmas supper. The hawker, before
offering the birds for sale, used to peer about him,
though we were alone in my counting-house, and
then pull his partridges out of his pockets, and
say, `Sir, do you want any very young chick-
ens?' -- for so he called them. Hares he called
`lions;' and they cost often, enough, 5s. each of
the hawker. The trade had all the charms and
recommendations of a mystery and a risk about
it, just like smuggling."
The sale of game in London, however, was
not confined to the street-hawkers, who generally
derived their stock-in-trade immediately from
the poacher. Before the legalisation of the sale,
the trade was carried on, under the rose, by the
salesmen in Leadenhall-market, and that to an
extent of not less than a fifteenth of the sale now
Column 2
accomplished there. The purveyors for the
London game-market -- I learned from leading
salesmen in Leadenhall -- were not then, as now,
noble lords and honourable gentlemen, but pea-
sant or farmer poachers, who carried on the
business systematically. The guards and coach-
men of the stage-coaches were the media of com-
munication, and had charge of the supply to the
London market. The purchasers of the game
thus supplied to a market, which is mostly the
property of the municipality of the City of Lon-
don, were not only hotel-keepers, who required
it for public dinners presided over by princes,
peers, and legislators, but the purveyors for the
civic banquets -- such as the Lord Mayor's ninth
of November dinner, at which the Ministers of
State always attended.
This street-hawking of poached game, as far
as I could ascertain from the best-informed
quarters, hardly survived the first year of the
legalised sale.
The female hawkers of game are almost all
the wives of the men so engaged, or are women
living with them as their wives. The trade is
better, as regards profit, than the costermonger's
ordinary pursuits, but only when the season is
favourable; it is, however, more uncertain.
There is very rarely a distinction between the
hawkers of game and of poultry. A man will
carry both, or have game one day and poultry
the next, as suits his means, or as the market
avails. The street-sellers of cheese are gene-
rally costers, while the vendors of butter and
eggs are almost extinct.
Game, I may mention, consists of grouse ( in-
cluding black-cocks, and all the varieties of
heath or moor-game), partridges, pheasants,
bustards, and hares. Snipe, woodcocks, plovers,
teal, widgeons, wild ducks, and rabbits are not
game, but can only be taken or killed by certi-
ficated persons, who are owners or occupiers of
the property on which they are found, or who
have the necessary permission from such persons
as are duly authorised to accord it. Poultry
consists of chickens, geese, ducks, and turkeys,
while some persons class pigeons as poultry.
Birds are dietetically divided into three classes:
(1) the white-fleshed, as the common fowl and
the turkey; (2) the dark-fleshed game, as the
grouse and the black-cock; and (3) the aquatic
(including swimmers and waders), as the goose
and the duck; the flesh of the latter is pene-
trated with fat, and difficult of digestion.
from authentic returns which I procured on the
subject, that the following is the quantity of
game and poultry sold yearly, as an average, in
the markets of the metropolis. I give it exclu-
sive of such birds as wild-ducks, woodcocks, &c.,
the supply of which depends upon the severity
of the winter. I include all wild birds or ani-
mals, whether considered game or not, and I use
round numbers, but as closely as possible.
During the past Christmas, however, I may
observe, that the supply of poultry to the
markets has been greater than on any pre-
vious occasion. The immensity of the supply
was favourable to the hawker's profit, as the
glut enabled him to purchase both cheaply and
largely. One young poultry-hawker told me
that he had cleared 3l. in the Christmas week,
and had spent it all in four days -- except 5s. reserved for stock-money. It was not spent
entirely in drunkenness, a large portion of it
Column 2
being expended in treats and amusements. So
great, indeed, has been the supply of game and
poultry this year, that a stranger, unused to the
grand scale on which provisions are displayed
in the great metropolitan marts, on visiting
Leadenhall, a week before or after Christmas,
might have imagined that the staple food of the
London population consisted of turkeys, geese,
and chickens. I give, however, an average yearly supply:
| Description. | Leadenhall. | Newgate. | Total. | Proportion sold in the Streets. |
| Grouse | 45,000 | 12,000 | 57,000 | One-eleventh. |
| Partridges | 85,000 | 60,000 | 145,000 | One-seventh. |
| Pheasants | 44,000 | 20,000 | 64,000 | One-fifth. |
| Snipes | 60,000 | 47,000 | 107,000 | One-twentieth. |
| Wild Birds | 40,000 | 20,000 | 60,000 | None. |
| Plovers | 28,000 | 18,000 | 46,000 | None. |
| Larks | 213,000 | 100,000 | 313,000 | None. |
| Teals | 10,000 | 5,000 | 15,000 | None. |
| Widgeons | 30,000 | 8,000 | 38,000 | None. |
| Hares | 48,000 | 55,000 | 102,000 | One-fifth. |
| Rabbits | 680,000 | 180,000 | 860,000 | Three-fourths. |
| 1,283,000 | 524,000 | 1,807,000 | ||
| Domestic Fowls | 1,266,000 | 490,000 | 1,756,000 | One-third. |
| \s-\\s-\ (alive) | 45,000 | 15,000 | 60,000 | One-tenth. |
| Geese | 888,000 | 114,000 | 1,002,000 | One-fifth. |
| Ducks | 235,000 | 148,000 | 383,000 | One-fourth. |
| \s-\ (alive) | 20,000 | 20,000 | 40,000 | One-tenth. |
| Turkeys | 69,000 | 55,000 | 124,000 | One-fourth. |
| Pigeous | 285,000 | 98,000 | 383,000 | None. |
| 2,808,000 | 940,000 | 3,748,000 | ||
| Game, &c | 1,283,000 | 524,000 | 1,807,000 | |
| 4,091,000 | 1,464,000 | 5,555,000 |
In the above return wild ducks and woodcocks
are not included, because the quantity sent to
London is dependent entirely upon the severity
of the winter. With the costers wild ducks are
a favourite article of trade, and in what those
street tradesmen would pronounce a favourable
season for wild ducks, which means a very
hard winter, the number sold in Londen will,
I am told, equal that of pheasants (64,000).
The great stock of wild ducks for the Lon-
don tables is from Holland, where the duck
decoys are objects of great care. Less than
a fifth of the importation from Holland is
from Lincolnshire. These birds, and even the
finest and largest, have been sold during a
glut at 1s. each. Woodcocks, under similar
circumstances, number with plovers (45,000),
nearly all of which are "golden plovers;" but
of woodcocks the costermongers buy very few:
"They're only a mouthful and a half," said
Column 2
one of them, "and don't suit our customers."
In severe weather a few ptarmigan are sent to
London from Scotland, and in 1841-2 great
numbers were sent to the London markets from
Norway. One salesman received nearly 10,000
ptarmigan in one day. A portion of these were
disposed of to the costers, but the sale was not
such as to encourage further importations.
The returns I give show, that, at the two great
game and poultry-markets, 5,500,000 birds and
animals, wild and tame, are yearly sent to Lon-
don. To this must be added all that may be
consigned direct to metropolitan game-dealers
and poulterers, besides what may be sent as
presents from the country, &c., so that the
London supply may be safely estimated, I am
assured, at 6,000,000.
It is difficult to arrive at any very precise
computation of the quantity of game and poul-
try sold by the costers, or rather at the money
The hawkers buy, also, game and poultry
which will not "keep" another day. Some-
times they puff out the breast of a chicken with
fresh pork fat, which melts as the bird roasts.
"It freshens the fowl, I've been told, and im-
proves it," said one man; "and the shopkeepers
now and then, does the same. It's a improve-
ment, sir."
In the present season the costers have bought
of wild ducks, comparatively, none, and of teal,
widgeons, wild birds, and larks, none at all; or
so sparely, as to require no notice.
As the purchasers of game and poultry are of
a different class to the costermongers' ordinary
customers, I may devote a few words to them.
From all the information that I could acquire,
they appear to consist, principally, of those who
reside at a distance from any cheap market, and
Column 2
buy a cheap luxury when it is brought to
their doors, as well as of those who are "always
on the look-out for something toothy, such as
the shabby genteels, as they're called, who never
gives nothing but a scaly price. They've bar-
gained with me till I was hard held from pitch-
ing into them, and over and over again I should,
only it would have been fourteen days anyhow.
They'll tell me my birds stinks, when they're as
sweet as flowers. They'd go to the devil to
save three farthings on a partridge." Other
buyers are old gourmands, living perhaps on
small incomes, or if possessed of ample incomes,
but confining themselves to a small expendi-
ture; others, again, are men who like a cheap
dinner, and seldom enjoy it, at their own cost,
unless it be cheap, and who best of all like
"such a thing as a moor bird (grouse)," said
one hawker, "which can be eat up to a man's
own cheek." This was also the opinion of a
poulterer and game-dealer, who sometimes sold
"goods" to the hawkers. Of this class of " pa-
trons" many shopkeepers, in all branches of
business, have a perfect horror, as they will
care nothing for having occupied the trades-
men's time to no purpose.
The game and poultry street-sellers, I am
told, soon find out when a customer is bent
upon a bargain, and shape their prices accord-
ingly. Although these street-sellers may gene-
rally take as their motto the announcement so
often seen in the shops of competitive trades-
men, "no reasonable offer refused," they are
sometimes so worried in bargaining that they do refuse.
In a conversation I had with a "retired"
game salesman, he said it might be curious
to trace the history of a brace of birds -- of
grouse, for instance -- sold in the streets; and he
did it after this manner. They were shot in
the Highlands of Scotland by a member of
parliament who had gladly left the senate for
the moors. They were transferred to a trades-
man who lived in or near some Scotch town
having railway communication, and with whom
"the honourable gentleman," or "the noble
lord," had perhaps endeavoured to drive a hard
bargain. He (the senator) must have a good
price for his birds, as he had given a large sum
for the moor: and the season was a bad one:
the birds were scarce and wild: they would
soon be "packed" (be in flocks of twenty or
thirty instead of in broods), and then there
would be no touching a feather of them. The
canny Scot would quietly say that it was early
in the season, and the birds never packed so
early; that as to price, he could only give what
he could get from a London salesman, and
he was "nae just free to enter into any agree-
ment for a fixed price at a'." The honour-
able gentleman, after much demurring, gives
way, feeling perhaps that he cannot well do
anything else. In due course the grouse are
received in Leadenhall, and unpacked and
flung about with as little ceremony as if they
had been "slaughtered" by a Whitechapel
The best quarters for the street-sale of game and
poultry are, I am informed from several sources,
either the business parts of the metropolis, or
else the houses in the several suburbs which are
the furthest from a market or from a business
part. The squares, crescents, places, and streets,
that do not partake of one or the other of these
characteristics, are pronounced "no good."
The man who gave me the following informa- tion was strong and robust, and had a weather- beaten look. He seemed about fifty. He wore when I saw him a large velveteen jacket, a cloth waistcoat which had been once green, and brown corduroy trousers. No part of his attire, though it seemed old, was patched, his shirt being clean and white. He evidently aimed at the game- keeper style of dress. He affected some humour, and was dogged in his opinions:
"I was a gentleman's footman when I was a
young man," he said, "and saw life both in
town and country; so I knows what things
belongs." [A common phrase among persons
of his class to denote their being men of the
world.] "I never liked the confinement of ser-
Column 2
vice, and besides the upper servants takes on so.
The others puts up with it more than they would,
I suppose, because they hopes to be butlers
themselves in time. The only decent people in
the house I lived in last was master and mis-
sus. I won 20l., and got it too, on the Colonel,
when he won the Leger. Master was a bit of
a turf gentleman, and so we all dabbled -- like
master like man, you know, sir. I think that
was in 1828, but I'm not certain. We came to
London not long after Doncaster" [he meant
Doncaster races], "something about a lawsuit,
and that winter I left service and bought the
goodwill of a coffee-shop for 25l. It didn't
answer. I wasn't up to the coffee-making, I
think; there's a deal of things belongs to all
things; so I got out of it, and after that I was
in service again, and then I was a boots at an
inn. But I couldn't settle to nothing long; I'm
of a free spirit, you see. I was hard up at last,
and I popped my watch for a sovereign, because
a friend of mine -- we sometimes drank together
of a night -- said he could put me in the pigeon
and chicken line; that was what he called it, but
it meant game. This just suited me, for I'd been
out with the poachers when I was a lad, and
indeed when I was in service, out of a night on
the sly; so I knew they got stiffish prices. My
friend got me the pigeons. I believe he cheated
me, but he's gone to glory. The next season
game was made legal eating. Before that I
cleared from 25s. to 40s. a week by selling my
`pigeons.' I carried real pigeons as well, which
I said was my own rearing at Gravesend. I sold
my game pigeons -- there was all sorts of names
for them -- in the City, and sometimes in the
Strand, or Charing-cross, or Covent-garden. I
sold to shopkeepers. Oft enough I've been of-
fered so much tea for a hare. I sometimes had
a hare in each pocket, but they was very awk-
ward carriage; if one was sold, the other sagged
so. I very seldom sold them, at that time, at
less than 3s. 6d., often 4s. 6d., and sometimes
5s. or more. I once sold a thumping old jack-
hare to a draper for 6s.; it was Christmas
time, and he thought it was a beauty. I went
into the country after that, among my friends,
and had a deal of ups and downs in different
parts. I was a navvy part of the time, till five
or six year back I came to London again, and
got into my old trade; but it's quite a different
thing now. I hawks grouse, and every thing,
quite open. Leadenhall and Newgate is my
markets. Six of one and half-a-dozen of
t'other. When there's a great arrival of game,
after a game battle" (he would so call a battue)
"and it's-warm weather, that's my time of day,
for then I can buy cheap. A muggy day, when
it's close and warm, is best of all. I have a tidy
bit of connection now in game, and don't touch
poultry when I can get game. Grouse is the
first thing I get to sell. They are legal eating
on the 12th of August, but as there's hundreds
of braces sold in London that day, and as
they're shot in Scotland and Yorkshire, and
other places where there's moors, in course
The quantity of game annually sold in the
London streets is as follows: --
| Grouse | 5,000 |
| Partridges | 20,000 |
| Pheasants | 12,000 |
| Snipes | 5,000 |
| Hares | 20,000 |
Two brothers, both good-looking and well-
spoken young men -- one I might characterise
as handsome -- gave me the following account.
I found them unwilling to speak of their youth,
and did not press them. I was afterwards in-
formed that their parents died within the same
month, and that the family was taken into the
workhouse; but the two boys left it in a little
time, and before they could benefit by any
schooling. Neither of them could read or write.
They left, I believe, with some little sum in
hand, to "start theirselves." An intelligent
costermonger, who was with me when I saw the
two brothers, told me that "a costermonger
would rather be thought to have come out of
prison than out of a workhouse," for his
"mates" would say, if they heard he had been
locked up, "O, he's only been quodded for
pitching into a crusher." The two brothers
wore clean smock country frocks over their
dress, and made a liberal display of their clean,
"We sell poultry and game, but stick most
to poultry, which suits our connection best. We
buy at Leadenhall. We're never cheated in
the things we buy; indeed, perhaps, we could'nt
be. A salesman will say -- Mr. H -- will --
`Buy, if you like, I can't recommend them.
Use your own judgment. They're cheap.' He
has only one price, and that's often a low one.
We give from 1s. to 1s. 9d. for good chickens,
and from 2s. 6d. mostly for geese and turkeys.
Pigeons is 1s. 9d. to 3s. a dozen. We aim at
6d. profit on chickens; and 1s., if we can get it,
or 6d. if we can do no better, on geese and
turkeys. Ducks are the same as chickens. All
the year through, we may make 12s. a week a
piece. We work together, one on one side of
the street and the other on the other. It
answers best that way. People find we can't
undersell one another. We buy the poultry,
whenever we can, undressed, and dress them
ourselves; pull the feathers off and make them
ready for cooking. We sell cheaper than the
shops, or we couldn't sell at all. But you
must be known, to do any trade, or people will
think your poultry's bad. We work game as
well, but mostly poultry. We've been on
hares to-day, mostly, and have made about
2s. 6d. a piece, but that's an extra day. Our
best customers are tradesmen in a big way, and
people in the houses a little way out of town.
Working people don't buy of us now. We're
going to a penny gaff to-night" (it was then
between four and five); "we've no better way of
spending our time when our day's work is done."
From the returns before given, the street-sale
of poultry amounts yearly to
500,000 fowls.
80,000 ducks.
20,000 geese.
30,000 turkeys.
The street trade in live poultry is not con- siderable, and has become less considerable every year, since the facilities of railway conveyance have induced persons in the suburbs to make their purchases in London rather than of the hawkers. Geese used to be bought very largely by the hawkers in Leadenhall, and were driven in flocks to the country, 500 being a frequent number of a flock. Their sale commenced about six miles from town in all directions, the pur- chasers being those who, having the necessary convenience, liked to fatten their own Christmas geese, and the birds when bought were small and lean. A few flocks, with 120 or 150 in each, are still disposed of in this way; but the trade is not a fifth of what it was. As this branch of the business is not in the hands of the hawkers, but generally of country poulterers resident in the towns not far from the metropolis, I need but allude to it. A few flocks of ducks are driven in the same way.
The street trade in live poultry continues only
for three months -- from the latter part of June
to the latter part of September. At this period,
the hawkers say, as they can't get "dead" they
must get "live." During these three months
the hawkers sell 500 chickens and 300 ducks
weekly, by hawking, or 10,400 in the season
of 13 weeks. Occasionally, as many as 50 men
and women -- the same who hawk dead game
and poultry -- are concerned in the traffic I am
treating of. At other times there are hardly 30,
and in some not 20 so employed, for if the wea-
ther be temperate, dead poultry is preferred to
live by the hawkers. Taking the average of
"live" sellers at 25 every week, it gives only a
trade of 32 birds each weekly. Some, however,
will sell 18 in a day; but others, who occasionally
resort to the trade, only a dozen in a week. The
birds are sometimes carried in baskets on the
hawker's arm, their heads being let through net-
work at the top; but more frequently they are
hawked in open wicker-work coops carried on
the head. The best live poultry are from Surrey
and Sussex; the inferior from Ireland, and per-
haps more than three-fourths of that sold by the
hawkers is Irish.
The further nature of the trade, and the class
of customers, is shown in the following state-
ment, given to me by a middle-aged man, who
had been familiar with the trade from his youth.
"Yes, sir," he said, "I've had a turn at live
poultry for -- let me see -- someways between
twenty and twenty-five years. The business is
a sweater, sir; it's heavy work, but `live' aint so
heavy as `dead.' There's fewer of them to carry
in a round, that's it. Ah! twenty years ago, or
better, live poultry was worth following. I did
a good bit in it. I've sold 160 fowls and ducks.
and more, in a week, and cleared about 4l. But
out of that I had to give a man 1s. a day, and his
peck, to help me. At that time I sold my ducks
and chickens -- I worked nothing else -- at from
2s. to 3s. 6d. a piece, according to size and quality.
Now, if I get from 14d. to 2s. it's not so bad. I
sell more, I think, however, over 1s. 6d. than un-
der it, but I'm perticler in my `live.' I never
sold to any but people out of town that had conve-
nience to keep them, and Lord knows, I've seen
ponds I could jump over reckoned prime for
ducks. Them that keeps their gardens nice won't
buy live poultry. I've seldom sold to the big houses
anything like to what I've done to the smaller.
The big houses, you see, goes for fancy bantems,
such as Sir John Seabright's, or Spanish hens, or
a bit of a game cross, or real game -- just for orna-
ment, and not for fighting -- or for anything that's
got its name up. I've known young couples buy
fowls to have their breakfast eggs from them.
One young lady told me to bring her -- that's
fifteen year ago, it is so -- six couples, that I
knew would lay. I told her she'd better have
five hens to a cock, and she didn't seem pleased,
but I'm sure I don't know why, for I hope I'm
always civil. I told her there would be murder
if there was a cock to every hen. I supplied
her, and made 6s. by the job. I have sold
Fancy chickens, I may add, are never hawked,
nor are live pigeons, nor geese, nor turkeys.
The hawkers' sale of live poultry may be
taken, at a moderate computation, as 6,500
chickens, and 3,900 ducks.
Rabbit-selling cannot be said to be a distinct branch of costermongering, but some street- sellers devote themselves to it more exclusively than to other "goods," and, for five or six months of the year, sell little else. It is not often, though it is sometimes, united with the game or poultry trade, as a stock of rabbits, of a dozen or a dozen and a half, is a sufficient load for one man. The best sale for rabbits is in the suburbs. They are generally carried slung two and two on a long pole, which is supported on the man's shoulders, or on a short one which is carried in the hand. Lately, they have been hawked about hung up on a barrow. The trade is the briskest in the autumn and winter months; but some men carry them, though they do not confine themselves to the traffic in them, all the year round. The following statement shows the nature of the trade.
"I was born and bred a costermonger," he
said, "and I've been concerned with everything
in the line. I've been mostly `on rabbits' these
five or six years, but I always sold a few, and
now sometimes I sell a hare or two, and, if
rabbits is too dear, I tumble on to fish. I buy
at Leadenhall mainly. I've given from 6s. to
14s. a dozen for my rabbits. The usual price is
from 5s. to 8s. a dozen. [I may remark that
the costers buy nearly all the Scotch rabbits, at
an average of 6s. the dozen; and the Ostend
rabbits, which are a shilling or two dearer.]
They're Hampshire rabbits; but I don't know
where Hampshire is. I know they're from
Hampshire, for they're called `Wild Hampshire
rabbits, 1s: a pair.' But still, as you say, that's
only a call. I never sell a rabbit at 6d., in
course -- it costs more. My way in business
is to get 2d. profit, and the skin, on every
rabbit. If they cost me 8d., I try to get 10d. It's the skins is the profit. The skins now brings
me from 1s. to 1s. 9d. a dozen. They're best
in frosty weather. The fur's thickest then. It
grows best in frost, I suppose. If I sell a
dozen, it's a tidy day's work. If I get 2d.
Column 2
a-piece on them, and the skins at 1s. 3d., it's
3s. 3d., but I dont sell above 5 dozen in a week
-- that's 16s. 3d. a week, sir, is it? Wet and
dark weather is against me. People won't often
buy rabbits by candlelight, if they're ever so
sweet. Some weeks in spring and summer I
can't sell above two dozen rabbits. I have sold
two dozen and ten on a Saturday in the country,
but then I had a young man to help me. I sell
the skins to a warehouse for hatters. My old
'oman works a little fish at a stall sometimes,
but she only can in fine weather, for we've a kid
that can hardly walk, and it don't do to let it
stand out in the cold. Perhaps I may make
10s. to 14s. a week all the year round. I'm
paying 1s. a week for 1l. borrowed, and paid 2s. all last year; but I'll pay no more after Christ-
mas. I did better on rabbits four or five year
back, because I sold more to working-people and
small shopkeepers than I do now. I suppose
it's because they're not so well off now as they
was then, and, as you say, butchers'-meat may
be cheaper now, and tempts them. I do best
short ways in the country. Wandsworth way
ain't bad. No more is parts of Stoke-Newing-
ton and Stamford-hill. St. John's Wood and
Hampstead is middling. Hackney's bad. I
goes all ways. I dont know what sort of peo-
ple's my best customers. Two of 'em, I've been
told, is banker's clerks, so in course they is rich."
There are 600,000 rabbits sold every year in
the streets of London; these, at 7d. a-piece, give
17,500l. thus expended annually in the metro-
polis.
the streets, and to a considerable extent. Until,
as nearly as I can ascertain, between twenty
and thirty years back, butter was brought from
Epping, and other neighbouring parts, where
good pasture existed, and hawked in the streets
of London, usually along with poultry and
eggs. This trade is among the more ancient
of the street-trades. Steam-vessels and rail-
ways, however, have so stocked the markets,
that no hawking of butter or eggs, from any
agricultural part, even the nearest to London,
would be remunerative now. Eggs are brought
in immense quantities from France and Bel-
gium, though thirty, or even twenty years ago
the notion having of a good French egg, at a Lon-
don breakfast-table, would have been laughed
at as an absurd attempt at an impossible
achievement. The number of eggs now annu-
ally imported into this kingdom, is 98,000,000,
half of which may be said to be the yearly con-
sumption of London. No butter is now hawked,
but sometimes a few "new laid" eggs are car-
ried from a rural part to the nearest metropo-
litan suburb, and are sold readily enough, if the
purveyor be known. Mr. M`Culloch estimates
the average consumption of butter, in London,
at 6,250,000 lbs. per annum, or 5 oz., weekly,
each individual.
The hawking of cheese was never a promi-
nent part of the street-trade. Of late, its sale
in the streets, may be described as accidental.
A considerable quantity of American cheese
was hawked, or more commonly sold at a stand-
ing, five or six years ago; unto December last,
and for three months preceding, cheese was
sold in the streets which had been rejected from
Government stores, as it would not "keep"
for the period required; but it was good for
immediate consumption, for which all street-
goods are required. This, and the American
cheese, were both sold in the streets at 3d. the
pound; usually, at fair weights, I am told, for it
might not be easy to deceive the poor in a thing
of such frequent purchase as "half a quarter or
a quarter" (of a pound) of cheese.
The total quantity of foreign cheese con-
sumed, yearly, in the metropolis may be esti-
mated at 25,000,000 lbs. weight, or half of the
gross quantity annually imported.
The following statement shows the quantity
and sum paid for the game and poultry sold in
London streets:
Column 2
| \cp\ | |
| 5,000 grouse, at 1s. 9d. each | 437 |
| 20,000 partridges, at 1s. 6d. | 1,500 |
| 12,000 pheasants, at 3s. 6d. | 2,100 |
| 5,000 snipes, at 8d. | 160 |
| 20,000 hares, at 2s. 3d. | 2,250 |
| 600,000 rabbits, at 7d. | 17,500 |
| 500,000 fowls, at 1s. 6d. | 37,500 |
| 20,000 geese, at 2s. 6d. | 2,500 |
| 80,000 ducks, at 1s. 6d. | 6,000 |
| 30,000 turkeys, at 3s. 6d. | 5,250 |
| 10,000 live fowls and ducks, at 1s. 6d. | 750 |
| \cp\75,953 |
In this table I do not give the refuse game
and poultry, bought sometimes for the mere
feathers, when "undressed;" neither are the
wild ducks nor woodcocks, nor those things of
which the costers buy only exceptionally, in-
cluded. Adding these, it may be said, that
with the street sale of butter, cheese, and eggs,
80,000l. are annually expended in the streets on
this class of articles.
The street-sellers of whom I have now to treat comprise those who deal in trees and shrubs, in flowers (whether in pots, or merely with soil attached to the roots, or cut from the plant as it grows in the garden), and in seeds and branches (as of holly, mistletoe, ivy, yew, laurel, palm, lilac, and may). The "root-sellers" (as the dealers in flowers in pots are mostly called) rank, when in a prosperous business, with the highest "aristocracy" of the street- greengrocers. The condition of a portion of them, may be characterised by a term which is readily understood as "comfortable," that is to say, comparatively comfortable, when the circumstances of other street-sellers are consi- dered. I may here remark, that though there are a great number of Scotchmen connected with horticultural labour in England, but more in the provincial than the metropolitan districts, there is not one Scotchman concerned in the metro- politan street-sale of flowers; nor, indeed, as I have good reason to believe, is there a single Scotchman earning his bread as a costermonger in London. A non-commissioned officer in an infantry regiment, a Scotchman, whom I met with a few months back, in the course of my inquiries concerning street musicians, told me that he thought any of his young country- men, if hard pushed "to get a crust," would enlist, rather than resort, even under favour- able circumstances, to any kind of street-sale in London.
The dealers in trees and shrubs are the same
as the root-sellers.
The same may be said, but with some few
exceptions, of the seed-sellers.
The street-trade in holly, mistletoe, and all
kinds of evergreens known as "Christmas," is
in the hands of the coster boys more than the
men, while the trade in may, &c., is almost
altogether confined to these lads.
The root-sellers do not reside in any particular
localities, but there are more of them living in
the outskirts than in the thickly populated
streets.
The street-sellers of cut flowers present cha-
racteristics peculiarly their own. This trade is
mostly in the hands of girls, who are of two
classes. This traffic ranks with the street sale
of water-cresses and congreves, that is to say,
among the lowest grades of the street-trade,
being pursued only by the very poor, or the
very young.
The returns which I caused to be procured, to show the extent of the business carried on in the metropolitan markets, give the following results as to the quantity of trees, shrubs, flowers, roots, and branches, sold wholesale in London, as well as the proportion retailed in the streets.
Perhaps the pleasantest of all cries in early
spring is that of "All a-growing -- all a-blow-
ing" heard for the first time in the season. It
is that of the "root-seller" who has stocked
his barrow with primroses, violets, and daisies.
Their beauty and fragrance gladden the senses;
and the first and, perhaps, unexpected sight of
them may prompt hopes of the coming year,
such as seem proper to the spring.
Cobbett has insisted, and with unquestioned
truth, that a fondness for bees and flowers is
among the very best characteristics of the
English peasant. I consider it equally un-
questionable that a fondness for in-door flowers,
is indicative of the good character and healthful
tastes, as well as of the domestic and indus-
trious habits, of the city artizan. Among some
of the most intelligent and best-conducted of
these artizans, I may occasionally have found,
on my visits to their homes, neither flowers nor
birds, but then I have found books.
United with the fondness for the violet, the
wallflower, the rose -- is the presence of the
quality which has been pronounced the hand-
maiden of all the virtues -- cleanliness. I
believe that the bunch of violets, on which a
poor woman or her husband has expended 1d., rarely ornaments an unswept hearth. In my
investigations, I could not but notice how the
presence or absence of flowers, together with
other indications of the better tastes, marked
the difference between the well-paid and the
ill-paid workman. Concerning the tailors, for
instance, I had occasion to remark, of the
dwellings of these classes: -- "In the one, you
occasionally find small statues of Shakspere
beneath glass shades; in the other, all is dirt
and foetor. The working-tailor's comfortable
first-floor at the West-end is redolent with the
perfume of the small bunch of violets that
stands in a tumbler over the mantel-piece; the
sweater's wretched garret is rank with the
stench of filth and herrings." The presence of
the bunch of flowers of itself tells us of "a better
state of things" elevating the workman; for,
amidst the squalid poverty and fustiness of a
slopworker's garret, the nostril loses its dain-
tiness of sense, so that even a freshly fragrant
wallflower is only so many yellow petals and
green leaves.
A love of flowers is also observable among
men whose avocations are out of doors, and
those whose habits are necessarily those of
order and punctuality.
Among this class are such persons as gentle-
men's coachmen, who delight in the display
of a flower or two in the button-holes of
their coats when out of doors, and in small
vases in their rooms in their masters' mews. I
have even seen the trellis work opposite the
windows of cabmen's rooms, which were over
stables, with a projecting roof covering the whole,
thickly yellow and green with the flowers and
leaves of the easily-trained nasturtium and herb
"twopence." The omnibus driver occasion-
ally "sports a nosegay" -- as he himself might
Column 2
word it -- in his button-hole; and the stage-
coachman of old felt he was improperly dressed
if a big bunch of flowers were not attached to
his coat. Sailors ashore are likewise generally
fond of flowers.
A delight in flowers is observable, also,
among the workers whose handicraft requires
the exercise of taste, and whose eyes are sen-
sible, from the nature of their employment, to
the beauty of colour. To this class belong
especially the Spitalfields' silk-weavers. At one
time the Spitalfields weavers were almost the
only botanists in London, and their love of
flowers is still strong. I have seen fuchsias
gladdening the weaver's eyes by being placed
near his loom, their crimson pendants swinging
backwarks and forwards to the motion of the
treadles, while his small back garden has been
many-coloured with dahlias. These weavers,
too, were at one time highly-successful as
growers of tulips.
Those out-door workmen, whose calling is of
coarse character, are never known to purchase
flowers, which to them are mere trumpery. Per-
haps no one of my readers ever saw a flower in
the possession of a flusherman, nightman, slaugh-
terer, sweep, gaslayer, gut and tripe-preparer,
or such like labourer. Their eyes convey to
the mind no appreciation of beauty, and the
sense of smell is actually dead in them, except
the odour be rank exceedingly.
The fondness for flowers in London is
strongest in the women, and, perhaps, strongest
in those whose callings are in-door and seden-
tary. Flowers are to them a companionship.
It remains only for me to state that, in the
poorest districts, and among people where there
is no sense of refinement or but a small love
for natural objects, flowers are little known.
Flowers are not bought by the slop-workers, the
garret and chamber-masters of Bethnal-green,
nor in the poor Irish districts, nor by the City
people Indeed, as I have observed, there is
not a flower-stand in the city.
It should be remembered that, in poor dis-
tricts, the first appearance of flowers conveys
to the slop-workman only one pleasurable asso-
ciation -- that the season of warmth has arrived,
and that he will not only escape being chilled
with cold, but that he will be delivered from
the heavy burden of providing fire and candle.
A pleasant-looking man, with an appearance
which the vulgar characterise as "jolly," and
with hearty manners, gave me the following
account as to the character of his customers.
He had known the business since he was a
boy, his friends having been in it previously.
He said:
"There's one old gentleman a little way out
of town, he always gives 1s. for the first violet
root that any such as me carries there. I'm
often there before any others: `Ah!' he says,
`here you are; you've come, like Buonaparte,
with your violet.' I don't know exactly what
he means. I don't like to ask him you see;
for, though he's civil, he's not what you
"The poor people buy rather largely at
times; that is, many of them buy. One day last
summer, my old woman and me sold 600 penny
pots of mignonette; and all about you saw them
-- and it was a pleasure to see them -- in the poor
women's windows. The women are far the best
customers. There was the mignonette behind
the bits of bars they have, in the shape of
gates and such like, in the front of their win-
dows, in the way of preventing the pots falling
into the street. Mignonette's the best of all
for a sure sale; where can you possibly have a
sweeter or a nicer penn'orth, pot and all."
The street-trade in trees and shrubs is an ap- pendage of "root-selling," and not an inde- pendent avocation. The season of supply at the markets extends over July, August, September, and October, with a smaller trade in the winter and spring months. At the nursery gardens, from the best data I can arrive at, there are about twice as many trees and shrubs purchased as in the markets by the costermongers. Nor is this the only difference. It is the more costly descrip- tions that are bought at the nursery grounds.
The trees and shrubs are bought at the
gardens under precisely the same circumstances
as the roots, but the trade is by no means popu-
lar with the root-sellers. They regard these
heavy, cumbrous goods, as the smarter costers
do such things as turnips and potatoes, requir-
ing more room, and yielding less profit. "It
breaks a man's heart," said one dealer, "and half
kills his beast, going round with a lot of heavy
things, that perhaps you can't sell." The street-
dealers say they must keep them, "or people
will go, where they can get roots, and trees, and
everything, all together." In winter, or in early
spring, the street-seller goes a round now and
then, with evergreens and shrubs alone, and
the trade is then less distasteful to him. The
trees and shrubs are displayed, when the mar-
ket-space allows, on a sort of stand near the
flower-stand; sometimes they are placed on the
ground, along-side the flower-stand, but only
when no better display can be made.
The trees and shrubs sold by the costers are
mezereons, rhododendrons, savine, laurustinus,
acacias (of the smaller genera, some being highly
aromatic when in flower), myrtles, guelder-roses
(when small), privet, genistas, broom, furze
(when small), the cheaper heaths, syringas
(small), lilacs (almost always young and for
transplanting), southernwood (when large), box
(large) dwarf laurels, variegated laurels (called
a cuber by the street-people), and young fir-
trees, &c.
The prices of trees vary far more than
flower-roots, because they are dependent upon
size for value. "Why," said one man, "I've
bought roddies, as I calls them (rhododendrons),
at 4s. a dozen, but they was scrubby things,
and I've bought them at 14s. 6d. I once gave
5s. for two trees of them, which I had ordered,
and there was a rare grumbling about the price,
The coster ordinarily confines himself to the
cheaper sorts of plants, and rarely meddles with
such things as acacias, mezereons, savines, sy-
ringas, lilacs, or even myrtles, and with none of
these things unless cheap. "Trees, real trees,"
I was told, "are often as cheap as anything.
Them young firs there was 4s. 6d. a dozen, and
a man at market can buy four or six of them if
he don't want a dozen."
The customers for trees and shrubs are gene-
rally those who inhabit the larger sort of houses,
where there is room in the hall or the windows
for display; or where there is a garden capa-
cious enough for the implantation of the shrubs.
Three-fourths of the trees are sold on a round,
and when purchased at a stall the costermonger
generally undertakes to deliver them at the
purchaser's residence, if not too much out of
his way, in his regular rounds. Or he may
diverge, and make a round on speculation,
purposely. There is as much bartering trees
for old clothes, as for roots, and as many, or
more, complaints of the hard bargainings of
ladies: "I'd rather sell polyanthuses at a
farthing a piece profit to poor women, if I could
get no more," said one man, "than I'd work
among them screws that's so fine in grand caps
and so civil. They'd skin a flea for his hide
and tallow."
The number of trees and shrubs sold annu-
ally, in the streets, are, as near as I can ascer-
tain, as follows -- I have added to the quantity
purchased by the street-sellers, at the metropo-
litan markets, the amount bought by them at the
principal nursery-gardens in the environs of
London:
| Firs | 9,576 roots |
| Laurels | 1,152 " |
| Myrtles | 23,040 " |
| Rhododendrons | 2,160 " |
| Lilacs | 2,304 " |
| Box | 2,880 " |
| Heaths | 21,888 " |
| Broom | 2,880 " |
| Furze | 6,912 " |
| Laurustinus | 6,480 " |
| Southernwood | 25,920 " |
of the number of flower-sellers in the streets of
London. The cause of the difficulty lies in the
fact that none can be said to devote themselves
entirely to the sale of flowers in the street, for
the flower-sellers, when oranges are cheap and
Column 2
good, find their sale of the fruit more certain
and profitable than that of flowers, and resort
to it accordingly. Another reason is, that a
poor costermonger will on a fine summer's day
send out his children to sell flowers, while
on other days they may be selling water-
cresses or, perhaps, onions. Sunday is the best
day for flower-selling, and one experienced man
computed, that in the height and pride of the
summer 400 children were selling flowers, on
the Sundays, in the streets. Another man
thought that number too low an estimate, and
contended that it was nearer 800. I found
more of the opinion of my last mentioned in-
formant than of the other, but I myself am
disposed to think the smaller number nearer the
truth. On week days it is computed there are
about half the number of flower-sellers that there
are on the Sundays. The trade is almost en-
tirely in the hands of children, the girls out-
numbering the boys by more than eight to one.
The ages of the girls vary from six to twenty;
few of the boys are older than twelve, and most
of them are under ten.
Of flower-girls there are two classes. Some
girls, and they are certainly the smaller class
of the two, avail themselves of the sale of flowers
in the streets for immoral purposes, or rather,
they seek to eke out the small gains of their
trade by such practises. They frequent the great
thoroughfares, and offer their bouquets to gen-
tlemen, whom on an evening they pursue for
a hundred yards or two in such places as the
Strand, mixing up a leer with their whine for
custom or for charity. Their ages are from
fourteen to nineteen or twenty, and sometimes
they remain out offering their flowers -- or dried
lavender when no fresh flowers are to be had --
until late at night. They do not care, to make
their appearance in the streets until towards
evening, and though they solicit the custom of
ladies, they rarely follow or importune them.
Of this class I shall treat more fully under ano-
ther head.
The other class of flower-girls is composed of
the girls who, wholly or partially, depend upon
the sale of flowers for their own support or as
an assistance to their parents. Some of them
are the children of street-sellers, some are
orphans, and some are the daughters of me-
chanics who are out of employment, and who
prefer any course rather than an application to
the parish. These girls offer their flowers in
the principal streets at the West End, and
resort greatly to the suburbs; there are a few,
also, in the business thoroughfares. They
walk up and down in front of the houses, offer-
ing their flowers to any one looking out of the
windows, or they stand at any likely place.
They are generally very persevering, more espe-
cially the younger children, who will run along,
barefooted, with their "Please, gentleman, do
buy my flowers. Poor little girl!" -- "Please,
kind lady, buy my violets. O, do! please! Poor
little girl! Do buy a bunch, please, kind lady!"
The statement I give, "of two orphan flower-
The better class of flower-girls reside in
Lisson-grove, in the streets off Drury-lane,
in St. Giles's, and in other parts inhabited by
the very poor. Some of them live in lodging-
houses, the stench and squalor of which are in
remarkable contrast to the beauty and fragrance
of the flowers they sometimes have to carry
thither with them unsold.
the younger eleven. Both were clad in old,
but not torn, dark print frocks, hanging so
closely, and yet so loosely, about them as to
show the deficiency of under-clothing; they
wore old broken black chip bonnets. The older
sister (or rather half-sister) had a pair of old
worn-out shoes on her feet, the younger was
barefoot, but trotted along, in a gait at once
quick and feeble -- as if the soles of her little
feet were impervious, like horn, to the rough-
ness of the road. The elder girl has a modest
expression of countenance, with no pretensions
to prettiness except in having tolerably good
eyes. Her complexion was somewhat muddy,
and her features somewhat pinched. The
younger child had a round, chubby, and even
rosy face, and quite a healthful look. Her por-
trait is here given.
They lived in one of the streets near Drury-
lane. They were inmates of a house, not let
out as a lodging-house, in separate beds, but
in rooms, and inhabited by street-sellers and
street-labourers. The room they occupied was
large, and one dim candle lighted it so insuffi-
ciently that it seemed to exaggerate the dimen-
sions. The walls were bare and discoloured
with damp. The furniture consisted of a crazy
table and a few chairs, and in the centre of
the room was an old four-post bedstead of the
larger size. This bed was occupied nightly by
the two sisters and their brother, a lad just
turned thirteen. In a sort of recess in a corner
of the room was the decency of an old curtain --
or something equivalent, for I could hardly see
in the dimness -- and behind this was, I pre-
sume, the bed of the married couple. The
three children paid 2s. a week for the room,
the tenant an Irishman out of work paying
2s. 9d., but the furniture was his, and his wife
aided the children in their trifle of washing,
mended their clothes, where such a thing was
possible, and such like. The husband was
absent at the time of my visit, but the wife
seemed of a better stamp, judging by her
appearance, and by her refraining from any
direct, or even indirect, way of begging, as
well as from the "Glory be to Gods!" "the
heavens be your honour's bed!" or "it's the
thruth I'm telling of you sir," that I so fre-
quently meet with on similar visits.
The elder girl said, in an English accent,
not at all garrulously, but merely in answer
to my questions: "I sell flowers, sir; we live
almost on flowers when they are to be got. I
sell, and so does my sister, all kinds, but it's
very little use offering any that's not sweet.
I think it's the sweetness as sells them. I
sell primroses, when they're in, and violets, and
wall-flowers, and stocks, and roses of different
sorts, and pinks, and carnations, and mixed
flowers, and lilies of the valley, and green
lavender, and mignonette (but that I do very
seldom), and violets again at this time of the
year, for we get them both in spring and
winter." [They are forced in hot-houses for
winter sale, I may remark.] "The best sale
of all is, I think, moss-roses, young moss-roses.
We do best of all on them. Primroses are
good, for people say: `Well, here's spring
again to a certainty.' Gentlemen are our
best customers. I've heard that they buy
flowers to give to the ladies. Ladies have
sometimes said: `A penny, my poor girl,
here's three-halfpence for the bunch.' Or
they've given me the price of two bunches for
one; so have gentlemen. I never had a rude
word said to me by a gentleman in my life.
No, sir, neither lady nor gentleman ever gave
me 6d. for a bunch of flowers. I never had a
sixpence given to me in my life -- never. I
never go among boys, I know nobody but
my brother. My father was a tradesman in
Mitchelstown, in the County Cork. I don't
know what sort of a tradesman he was. I
never saw him. He was a tradesman I've
been told. I was born in London. Mother
was a chairwoman, and lived very well. None
of us ever saw a father." [It was evident that
they were illegitimate children, but the land-
lady had never seen the mother, and could give
me no information.] "We don't know anything
about our fathers. We were all `mother's
children.' Mother died seven years ago last
Guy Faux day. I've got myself, and my
brother and sister a bit of bread ever since, and
never had any help but from the neighbours.
I never troubled the parish. O, yes, sir, the
neighbours is all poor people, very poor, some
of them. We've lived with her" (indicating
her landlady by a gesture) "these two years,
and off and on before that. I can't say how
long." "Well, I don't know exactly," said
the landlady, "but I've had them with me
almost all the time, for four years, as near as
I can recollect; perhaps more. I've moved
three times, and they always followed me."
In answer to my inquiries the landlady assured
me that these two poor girls, were never out of
doors all the time she had known them after
six at night. "We've always good health.
We can all read." [Here the three somewhat
insisted upon proving to me their proficiency
in reading, and having produced a Roman
Catholic book, the "Garden of Heaven," they
read very well.] "I put myself," continued
the girl, "and I put my brother and sister to
The brother earned from 1s. 6d. to 2s. a week,
with an occasional meal, as a costermonger's
boy. Neither of them ever missed mass on a
Sunday.
immoral character, and some of them are sent
out by their parents to make out a livelihood
Column 2
by prostitution. One of this class, whom I
saw, had come out of prison a short time pre-
viously. She was not nineteen, and had been
sentenced about a twelvemonth before to three
months' imprisonment with hard labour, "for
heaving her shoe," as she said, "at the Lord
Mayor, to get a comfortable lodging, for she
was tired of being about the streets." After
this she was locked up for breaking the lamps
in the street. She alleged that her motive for
this was a belief that by committing some such
act she might be able to get into an asylum for
females. She was sent out into the streets by
her father and mother, at the age of nine, to
sell flowers. Her father used to supply her
with the money to buy the flowers, and she
used to take the proceeds of the day's work
home to her parents. She used to be out
frequently till past midnight, and seldom or
never got home before nine. She associated
only with flower-girls of loose character. The
result may be imagined. She could not state
positively that her parents were aware of the
manner in which she got the money she took
home to them. She supposes that they must have
imagined what her practices were. He used to
give her no supper if she "didn't bring home
a good bit of money." Her father and mother
did little or no work all this while. They lived
on what she brought home. At thirteen years
old she was sent to prison (she stated) "for
selling combs in the street" (it was winter, and
there were no flowers to be had). She was in-
carcerated fourteen days, and when liberated
she returned to her former practices. The very
night that she came home from gaol her father
sent her out into the streets again. She con-
tinued in this state, her father and mother
living upon her, until about twelve months be-
fore I received this account from her, when her
father turned her out of his house, because she
didn't bring home money enough. She then
went into Kent, hop-picking, and there fell in
with a beggar, who accosted her while she was
sitting under a tree. He said, "You have got
a very bad pair of shoes on; come with me,
and you shall have some better ones." She
consented, and walked with him into the village
close by, where they stood out in the middle of
the streets, and the man began addressing the
people, "My kind good Christians, me and
my poor wife here is ashamed to appear before
you in the state we are in." She remained
with this person all the winter, and travelled
with him through the country, begging. He
was a beggar by trade. In the spring she
returned to the flower-selling, but scarcely got
any money either by that or other means. At
last she grew desperate, and wanted to get
back to prison. She broke the lamps out-
side the Mansion-house, and was sentenced
to fourteen days' imprisonment. She had
been out of prison nearly three weeks when
I saw her, and was in training to go into an
asylum. She was sick and tired, she said, of
her life.
The sale of green lavender in the streets is carried on by the same class as the sale of flowers, and is, as often as flowers, used for immoral purposes, when an evening or night sale is carried on.
The lavender is sold at the markets in
bundles, each containing a dozen branches.
It is sold principally to ladies in the suburbs,
who purchase it to deposit in drawers and ward-
robes; the odour communicated to linen from
lavender being, perhaps, more agreeable and
more communicable than that from any other
flower. Nearly a tenth of the market sale may
be disposed of in this way. Some costers sell it
cheap to recommend themselves to ladies who
are customers, that they may have the better
chance for a continuance of those ladies' cus-
tom.
The number of lavender-sellers can hardly be
given as distinct from that of flower-sellers, be-
cause any flower-girl will sell lavender, "when
it is in season." The season continues from the
beginning of July to the end of September. In
the winter months, generally after day-fall, dried
lavender is offered for sale; it is bought at the
herb-shops. There is, however, an addition to the
number of the flower-girls of a few old women,
perhaps from twenty to thirty, who vary their
street-selling avocations by going from door to
door in the suburbs with lavender for sale, but
do not stand to offer it in the street.
The street-seller's profit on lavender is now
somewhat more than cent. per cent., as the
bundle, costing 2½d., brings when tied up in
sprigs, at least, 6d. The profit, I am told, was,
six or seven years ago, 200 per cent; "but
people will have better penn'orths now." I
was informed, by a person long familiar with the
trade in flowers, that, from twenty to twenty-five
years ago, the sale was the best. It was a fash-
ionable amusement for ladies to tie the sprigs of
lavender together, compressing the stems very
tightly with narrow ribbon of any favourite
colour, the heads being less tightly bound, or
remaining unbound; the largest stems were in
demand for this work. The lavender bundle,
when its manufacture was complete, was placed
in drawers, or behind books in the shelves of a
glazed book-case, so that a most pleasant atmo-
sphere was diffused when the book-case was
opened.
I now give the quantity of cut flowers sold in
the streets. The returns have been derived from
nursery-men and market-salesmen. It will be
seen how fully these returns corroborate the
statement of the poor flower-girl -- (p. 135) --
"it's very little use offering anything that's not
sweet."
I may remark, too, that at the present period,
from "the mildness of the season," wallflowers,
primroses, violets, and polyanthuses are almost
as abundant as in spring sunshine.
| Violets | 65,280 bunches. |
| Wallflowers | 115,200 bunches. |
| Lavender | 296,640 bunches. |
| Pinks and Carnations | 63,360 bunches. |
| Moss Roses | 172,800 bunches. |
| China ditto | 172,800 bunches. |
| Mignonette | 86,400 bunches. |
| Lilies of the Valley | 1,632 bunches. |
| Stocks | 20,448 bunches. |
| Cut flowers sold yearly in the streets | 994,560 bunches. |
The "flower-root sellers" -- for I heard them so called to distinguish them from the sellers of "cut flowers" -- are among the best-mannered and the best-dressed of all the street-sellers I have met with, but that only as regards a por- tion of them. Their superiority in this respect may perhaps be in some measure attributable to their dealing with a better class of customers -- with persons who, whether poor or rich, exer- cise healthful tastes.
I may mention, that I found the street-sellers
of "roots" -- always meaning thereby flower-
roots in bloom -- more attached to their trade
than others of their class.
The roots, sold in the streets, are bought in
the markets and at the nursery-gardens; but
about three-fourths of those required by the
better class of street-dealers are bought at the
gardens, as are "cut flowers" occasionally.
Hackney is the suburb most resorted to by the
root-sellers. The best "pitches" for the sale
of roots in the street are situated in the New-
road, the City-road, the Hampstead-road, the
Edgeware-road, and places of similar character,
where there is a constant stream of passers
along, who are not too much immersed in
business. Above three-fourths of the sale is
effected by itinerant costermongers. For this
there is one manifest reason: a flower-pot, with
the delicate petals of its full-blown moss-rose,
perhaps, suffers even from the trifling concus-
sion in the journey of an omnibus, for instance.
To carry a heavy flower-pot, even any short
distance, cannot be expected, and to take a cab
for its conveyance adds greatly to the expense.
Hence, flower-roots are generally purchased at
the door of the buyer.
For the flowers of commoner or easier culture,
the root-seller receives from 1d. to 3d. These
are primroses, polyanthuses, cowslips (but in
small quantities comparatively), daisies (single
and double, -- and single or wild, daisies were
coming to be more asked for, each 1d.), small
early wallflowers, candy-tufts, southernwood
(called "lad's love" or "old man" by some),
and daffodils, (but daffodils were sometimes
dearer than 3d.). The plants that may be said
to struggle against frost and snow in a hard
season, such as the snowdrop, the crocus, and
the mezereon, are rarely sold by the costers;
"They come too soon," I was told. The prim-
Towards the close of May, in an early season,
and in the two following months, the root-trade
is at its height. Many of the stalls and barrows
are then exceedingly beautiful, the barrow often
resembling a moving garden. The stall-keepers
have sometimes their flowers placed on a series
of shelves, one above another, so as to present
a small amphitheatre of beautiful and diversi-
fied hues; the purest white, as in the lily of the
valley, to the deepest crimson, as in the fuschia;
the bright or rust-blotted yellow of the wall-
flower, to the many hues of the stock. Then
there are the pinks and carnations, double and
single, with the rich-coloured and heavily
scented "clove-pinks;" roses, mignonette, the
velvetty pansies (or heart's-ease), the white and
orange lilies, calceolarias, balsams (a flower
going out of fashion), geraniums (flowers com-
ing again into fashion), musk-plants, London
pride (and other saxifrages; the species known,
oddly enough, as London pride being a native
of wild and mountainous districts, such as
botanists call "Alpine habitats,") and the many
coloured lupins. Later again come the China-
asters, the African marigolds, the dahlias, the
poppies, and the common and very aromatic
marigold. Later still there are the Michaelimas
daisies -- the growth of the "All-Hallow'n sum-
mer," to which Falstaff was compared.
There is a class of "roots" in which the
street-sellers, on account of their general dear-
ness, deal so sparingly, that I cannot class
them as a part of the business. Among these
are anemones, hyacinths, tulips, ranuncu-
luses, and the orchidaceous tribe. Neither do
the street people meddle, unless very excep-
tionally, with the taller and statelier plants,
such as foxgloves, hollyoaks, and sunflowers;
these are too difficult of carriage for their pur-
pose. Nor do they sell, unless again as an ex-
ception, such flowers as require support -- the
convolvolus and the sweet-pea, for instance.
The plants I have specified vary in price.
Geraniums are sold at from 3d. to 5s.; pinks at
from 3d. for the common pink, to 2s. for the
best single clove, and 4s. for the best double;
stocks, as they are small and single, to their
being large and double, from 3d. (and some-
times less) to 2s.; dahlias from 6d. to 5s.; fuschias, from 6d. to 4s.; rose-bushes from 3d. to 1s. 6d., and sometimes, but not often, much
higher; musk-plants, London pride, lupins, &c.,
are 1d. and 2d., pots generally included.
To carry on his business efficiently, the root-
seller mostly keeps a pony and a cart, to convey
his purchases from the garden to his stall or his
barrow, and he must have a sheltered and cool
shed in which to deposit the flowers which are
to be kept over-night for the morrow's business.
"It's a great bother, sir," said a root-seller,
"a man having to provide a shed for his roots.
Column 2
It wouldn't do at all to have them in the same
room as we sleep in -- they'd droop. I have a
beautiful big shed, and a snug stall for a donkey
in a corner of it; but he won't bear tying up --
he'll fight against tying all night, and if he was
loose, why in course he'd eat the flowers I put
in the shed. The price is nothing to him; he'd
eat the Queen's camellias, if he could get at
them, if they cost a pound a-piece. So I have
a deal of trouble, for I must block him up
somehow; but he's a first-rate ass." To carry
on a considerable business, the services of a
man and his wife are generally required, as well
as those of a boy.
The purchases wholesale are generally by the
dozen roots, all ready for sale in pots. Migno-
nette, however, is grown in boxes, and sold by
the box at from 5s. to 20s., according to the size,
&c. The costermonger buys, for the large sale
to the poor, at a rate which brings the migno-
nette roots into his possession at something less,
perhaps, than a halfpenny each. He then pur-
chases a gross of small common pots, costing
him 1½d. a dozen, and has to transfer the roots
and soil to the pots, and then offer them for sale.
The profit thus is about 4s. per hundred, but
with the drawback of considerable labour and
some cost in the conveyance of the boxes. The
same method is sometimes pursued with young
stocks.
The cheapness of pots, I may mention inci-
dentally, and the more frequent sale of roots
in them, has almost entirely swept away the
fragment of a pitcher and "the spoutless tea-
pot," which Cowper mentions as containing the
poor man's flowers, that testified an inextin-
guishable love of rural objects, even in the heart
of a city. There are a few such things, how-
ever, to be seen still.
Of root-sellers there are, for six months of
the year, about 500 in London. Of these, one-
fifth devote themselves principally, but none
entirely, to the sale of roots; two-fifths sell
roots regularly, but only as a portion, and
not a larger portion of their business; and the
remaining two-fifths are casual dealers in
roots, buying them -- almost always in the
markets -- whenever a bargain offers. Seven-
eighths of the root-sellers are, I am informed,
regular costers, occasionally a gardener's assist-
ant has taken to the street trade in flowers,
"but I fancy, sir," said an experienced man
to me, "they've very seldom done any good
at it. They're always gardening at their
roots, trimming them, and such like, and they
overdo it. They're too careful of their plants;
people like to trim them theirselves."
"I did well on fuschias last season," said
one of my informants; "I sold them from
6d. to 1s. 6d. The `Globes' went off well.
Geraniums was very fair. The `Fairy Queens'
of them sold faster than any, I think. It's
the ladies out of town a little way, and a
few in town, that buy them, and buy the
fuschias too. They require a good window.
The `Jenny Linds' -- they was geraniums and
"Why, no, sir; I can't say that times is what
they was. Where I made 4l. on my roots five or
six years back, I make only 3l. now. But it's no
use complaining; there's lots worse off than I
am -- lots. I've given pennies and twopences to
plenty that's seen better days in the streets; it
might be their own fault. It is so mostly, but
perhaps only partly. I keep a connection toge-
ther as well as I can. I have a stall; my wife's
there generally, and I go a round as well."
One of the principal root-sellers in the streets
told me that he not unfrequently sold ten dozen
a day, over and above those sold not in pots. As
my informant had a superior trade, his business
is not to be taken as an average; but, reckoning
that he averages six dozen a day for 20 weeks --
he said 26 -- it shows that one man alone sells
8,640 flowers in pots in the season. The prin-
Column 2
cipal sellers carry on about the same extent of
business.
According to similar returns, the number of
the several kinds of flowers in pots and flower
roots sold annually in the London streets, are
as follows:
| Moss-roses | 38,880 |
| China-roses | 38,880 |
| Fuschias | 38,800 |
| Geraniums | 12,800 |
| Total number of flowers in pots sold in the streets. | 123,360 |
| Primroses | 24,000 |
| Polyanthuses | 34,560 |
| Cowslips | 28,800 |
| Daisies | 33,600 |
| Wallflowers | 46,080 |
| Candytufts | 28,800 |
| Daffodils | 28,800 |
| Violets | 38,400 |
| Mignonette | 30,384 |
| Stocks | 23,040 |
| Pinks and Carnations | 19,200 |
| Lilies of the Valley | 3,456 |
| Pansies | 12,960 |
| Lilies | 660 |
| Tulips | 852 |
| Balsams | 7,704 |
| Calceolarias | 3,180 |
| Musk Plants | 253,440 |
| London Pride | 11,520 |
| Lupins | 25,596 |
| China-asters | 9,156 |
| Marigolds | 63,360 |
| Dahlias | 852 |
| Heliotrope | 13,356 |
| Poppies | 1,920 |
| Michaelmas Daisies | 6,912 |
| Total number of flower- roots sold in the streets | 750,588 |
The street sale of seeds, I am informed, is smaller than it was thirty, or even twenty years back. One reason assigned for this falling off is the superior cheapness of "flowers in pots." At one time, I was informed, the poorer classes who were fond of flowers liked to "grow their own mignonette." I told one of my informants that I had been assured by a trustworthy man, that in one day he had sold 600 penny pots of mignonette: "Not a bit of doubt of it, sir," was the answer, "not a doubt about it; I've heard of more than that sold in a day by a man who set on three hands to help him; and that's just where it is. When a poor woman, or poor man either -- but its mostly the women -- can buy a mignonette pot, all blooming and smelling for 1d., why she won't bother to buy seeds and set them in a box or a pot and wait for them to come into full blow. Selling seeds in the streets can't be done so well now, sir. Any-
None of the street seed-vendors confine them-
selves to the sale. One man, whom I saw, told
me that last spring he was penniless, after
sickness, and a nurseryman, whom he knew,
trusted him 5s. worth of seeds, which he con-
tinued to sell, trading in nothing else, for three
or four weeks, until he was able to buy some
flowers in pots. Though the profit is cent. per
cent. on most kinds, 1s. 6d. a day is accounted
"good earnings, on seeds." On wet days there
is no sale, and, indeed, the seeds cannot be ex-
posed in the streets. My informant computed
that he cleared 5s. a week. His customers
were principally poor women, who liked to sow
mignonette in boxes, or in a garden-border, "if
it had ever such a little bit of sun," and who
resided, he believed, in small, quiet streets,
branching off from the thoroughfares. Of flower-
seeds, the street-sellers dispose most largely
of mignonette, nasturtium, and the various
stocks; and of herbs, the most is done in
parsley. One of my informants, however, "did
best in grass-seeds," which people bought, he
said, "to mend their grass-plots with," sowing
them in any bare place, and throwing soil
loosely over them. Lupin, larkspur, convol-
vulus, and Venus's looking-glass had a fair sale.
The street-trade, in seeds, would be less than
it is, were it not that the dealers sell it in
smaller quantities than the better class of shop-
keepers. The street-traders buy their seeds by
the quarter of a pound -- or any quantity not
considered retail -- of the nurserymen, who often
write the names for the costers on the paper in
which the seed has to be inclosed. Seed that costs
4d., the street-seller makes into eight penny
lots. "Why, yes, sir," said one man, in answer
to my inquiry, "people is often afraid that our
seeds ain't honest. If they're not, they're
mixed, or they're bad, before they come into our
hands. I don't think any of our chaps does
anything with them."
Fourteen or fifteen years ago, although seeds,
generally, were fifteen to twenty per cent. dearer
than they are now, there was twice the demand
for them. An average price of good mignonette
Column 2
seed, he said, was now 1s. the quarter of a pound,
and it was then 1s. 2d. to 1s. 6d. The shilling's
worth, is made, by the street-seller, into twenty
or twenty-four pennyworths. An average price
of parsley, and of the cheaper seeds, is less than
half that of mignonette. Other seeds, again, are
not sold to the street-people by the weight, but
are made up in sixpenny and shilling packages.
Their extreme lightness prevents their being
weighed to a customer. Of this class are, the
African marigold, the senecios (groundsel), and
the china-aster; but of these compound flowers,
the street-traders sell very few. Poppy-seed used
to be in great demand among the street-buyers,
but it has ceased to be so. "It's a fine hardy
plant, too, sir," I was told, "but somehow, for
all its variety in colours, it's gone out of fashion,
for fashion runs strong in flowers."
One long-established street-seller, who is well
known to supply the best seeds, makes for
the five weeks or so of the season more
than twice the weekly average of 5s.; perhaps
12s.; but as he is a shop as well as a stall-keeper,
he could not speak very precisely as to the
proportionate sale in the street or the shop.
This man laughed at the fondness some of his
customers manifested for "fine Latin names."
"There are some people," he said, "who will
buy antirrhinum, and artemisia, and digitalis,
and wouldn't hear of snapdragon, or worm-
wood, or foxglove, though they're the identical
plants." The same informant told me that
the railways in their approaches to the metro-
polis had destroyed many small gardens, and
had, he thought, injured his trade. It was,
also, a common thing now for the greengrocers
and corn-chandlers to sell garden-seeds, which
until these six or eight years they did much less
extensively.
Last spring, I was told, there were not more
than four persons, in London, selling only seeds.
The "root-sellers," of whom I have treated,
generally deal in seeds also, but the demand
does not extend beyond four or five weeks in the
spring, though there was "a straggling trade that
way" two or three weeks longer. It was com-
puted for me, that there were fully one hundred
persons selling seeds (with other things) in the
streets, and that each might average a profit of
5s. weekly, for a month; giving 200l. expended
in seeds, with 100l. profit to the costers. Seeds
are rarely hawked as flowers are.
It is impossible to give as minutely detailed
an account of the street-sale of seeds as of flow-
ers, as from their diversity in size, weight,
quantity in a pennyworth, &c., no calculation
can be prepared by weight or measure, only by
value. Thus, I find it necessary to depart some-
what from the order hitherto observed. One
seedsman, acquainted with the street-trade from
his dealings with the vendors, was of opinion
that the following list and proportions were as
nice an approximation as could be arrived at.
It was found necessary to give it in proportions
of twenty-fifths; but it must be borne in mind
that the quantity in [unclear: ] ths of parsley, for exam-
| Seeds. | Twenty-fifths. | Value. |
| Mignonette | Three | \cp\24 |
| Stocks (of all kinds) | Two | 16 |
| Marigolds (do.) | One | 8 |
| Convolvulus (do.) | One | 8 |
| Wallflower | One | 8 |
| Scarlet-beans and | ||
| Sweet-peas | One . . . | 8 |
| China-asters and Ve- | ||
| nus' looking-glass | One | 8 |
| Lupin and Larkspur | One | 8 |
| Nasturtium | One | 8 |
| Parsley | Two | 16 |
| Other Pot-herbs | One | 8 |
| Mustard and Cress, | ||
| Lettuce, and the | Two | 16 |
| other vegetables | ||
| Grass | One | 8 |
| Other seeds | Seven | 56 |
| Total expended annually on street-seeds. | \cp\200 |
"Christmasing," or in the sale of holly and mis-
tletoe, for Christmas sports and decorations.
I have appended a table of the quantity of these
"branches" sold, nearly 250,000, and of the
money expended upon them in the streets.
It must be borne in mind, to account for this
expenditure for a brief season, that almost every
housekeeper will expend something in " Christ-
masing;" from 2d. to 1s. 6d., and the poor buy a
pennyworth, or a halfpennyworth each, and they
are the coster's customers. In some houses,
which are let off in rooms, floors, or suites of
apartments, and not to the poorest class, every
room will have the cheery decoration of holly,
its bright, and as if glazed leaves and red berries,
reflecting the light from fire or candle. "Then,
look," said a gardener to me, "what's spent on
a Christmasing the churches! Why, now, pro-
perly to Christmas St. Paul's, I say properly, mind, would take 50l. worth at least; aye, more,
when I think of it, nearer 100l. I hope there 'll
be no `No Popery' nonsense against Christmas-
ing this year. I'm always sorry when anything of
that kind's afloat, because it's frequently a hind-
rance to business." This was said three weeks
before Christmas. In London there are upwards
of 300,000 inhabited houses. The whole of the
evergreen branches sold number 375,000.
Even the ordinary-sized inns, I was informed,
displayed holly decorations, costing from 2s. to 10s.; while in the larger inns, where, perhaps,
an assembly-room, a concert-room, or a club-
room, had to be adorned, along with other
apartments, 20s. worth of holly, &c., was a not
Column 2
uncommon outlay. "Well, then, consider,"
said another informant, "the plum-puddings!
Why, at least there's a hundred thousand of 'em
eaten, in London, through the Christmas and
the month following. That's nearly one pud-
ding to every twenty of the population, is it,
sir? Well, perhaps, that's too much. But,
then, there's the great numbers eaten at
public dinners and suppers; and there's more
plum-pudding clubs at the small grocers and
public-houses than there used to be, so, say
full a hundred thousand, flinging in any
mince-pies that may be decorated with ever-
greens. Well, sir, every plum-pudding will
have a sprig of holly in him. If it's bought
just for the occasion, it may cost 1d., to be
really prime and nicely berried. If it's part
of a lot, why it won't cost a halfpenny, so
reckon it all at a halfpenny. What does that
come to? Above 200l. Think of that, then,
just for sprigging puddings!"
Mistletoe, I am informed, is in somewhat less
demand than it was, though there might be no
very perceptible difference. In many houses holly
is now used instead of the true plant, for the
ancient ceremonies and privileges observed
"under the mistletoe bough." The holly is
not half the price of the mistletoe, which is one
reason; for, though there is not any great dis-
parity of price, wholesale, the holly, which
costs 6d. retail, is more than the quantity of
mistletoe retailed for 1s. The holly-tree may
be grown in any hedge, and ivy may be reared
against any wall; while the mistletoe is para-
sitical of the apple-tree, and, but not to half the
extent, of the oak and other trees. It does not
grow in the northern counties of England. The
purchasers of the mistletoe are, for the most
part, the wealthier classes, or, at any rate, I was
told, "those who give parties." It is bought,
too, by the male servants in large establish-
ments, and more would be so bought, "only so
few of the great people, of the most fashionable
squares and places, keep their Christmas in
town." Half-a-crown is a not uncommon
price for a handsome mistletoe bough.
The costermongers buy about a half of the
holly, &c., brought to the markets; it is also
sold either direct to those requiring evergreens,
or to green-grocers and fruiterers who have re-
ceived orders for it from their customers, or who
know it will be wanted. A shilling's worth may
be bought in the market, the bundles being di-
vided. Mistletoe, the costers -- those having
regular customers in the suburbs -- receive orders
for. "Last December," said a coster to me, "I
remember a servant-girl, and she weren't such a
girl either, running after me in a regular flutter,
to tell me the family had forgot to order 2s. worth
of mistletoe of me, to be brought next day. Oh,
yes, sir, if it's ordered by, or delivered to, the
servant-girls, they generally have a little giggling
about it. If I've said: `What are you laugh-
ing at?' they'll mostly say: `Me! I'm not
laughing.' "
The costermongers go into the neighbour-
One strong-looking lad, of 16 or 17, gave me
the following account: --
"It's hard work, is Christmasing; but, when
you have neither money nor work, you must do
something, and so the holly may come in
handy. I live with a elder brother; he helps
the masons, and as we had neither of us either
work or money, he cut off Tottenham and Ed-
monton way, and me the t'other side of the
water, Mortlake way, as well as I know. We'd
both been used to costering, off and on. I was
out, I think, ten days altogether, and didn't
make 6s. in it. I'd been out two Christmases
before. O, yes, I'd forgot. I made 6d. over
the 6s., for I had half a pork-pie and a pint of
beer, and the landlord took it out in holly. I
meant to have made a quarter of pork do, but
I was so hungry -- and so would you, sir, if you'd
been out a-Christmasing -- that I had the t'other
quarter. It's 2d. a quarter. I did better when
I was out afore, but I forget what I made.
It's often slow work, for you must wait some-
times 'till no one's looking, and then you must
work away like anything. I'd nothing but a
sharp knife, I borrowed, and some bits of cord
to tie the holly up. You must look out sharp,
because, you see, sir, a man very likely won't
like his holly-tree to be stripped. Wherever
there is a berry, we goes for the berries.
Column 2
They're poison berries, I've heard. Moon-
light nights is the thing, sir, when you knows
where you are. I never goes for mizzletoe.
I hardly knows it when I sees it. The first
time I was out, a man got me to go for some in
a orchard, and told me how to manage; but I
cut my lucky in a minute. Something came
over me like. I felt sickish. But what can a
poor fellow do? I never lost my Christmas,
but a little bit of it once. Two men took it
from me, and said I ought to thank them
for letting me off without a jolly good jacket-
ing, as they was gardeners. I believes they was
men out a-Christmasing, as I were. It was a
dreadful cold time that; and I was wet, and
hungry, -- and thirsty, too, for all I was so wet, --
and I'd to wait a-watching in the wet. I've
got something better to do now, and I'll never
go a-Christmasing again, if I can help it."
This lad contrived to get back to his lodging,
in town, every night, but some of those out
Christmasing, stay two or three days and nights
in the country, sleeping in barns, out-houses,
carts, or under hay-stacks, inclement as the
weather may be, when their funds are insuffi-
cient to defray the charge of a bed, or a part of
one, at a country "dossing-crib" (low lodging-
house). They resorted, in considerable num-
bers, to the casual wards of the workhouses, in
Croydon, Greenwich, Reigate, Dartford, &c.,
when that accommodation was afforded them,
concealing their holly for the night.
As in other matters, it may be a surprise to
some of my readers to learn in what way the
evergreens, used on festive occasions in their
homes, may have been procured.
The costermongers who procure their own
Christmasing, generally hawk it. A few sell it
by the lot to their more prosperous brethren.
What the costers purchase in the market, they
aim to sell at cent. per cent.
Supposing that 700 men and lads gathered
their own holly, &c., and each worked for three
weeks (not regarding interruptions), and calcu-
lating that, in the time they cleared even 15s. each, it amounts to 575l.
Some of the costermongers deck their carts
and barrows, in the general line, with holly at
Christmas. Some go out with their carts full
of holly, for sale, and may be accompanied by
a fiddler, or by a person beating a drum. The
cry is, "Holly! Green Holly!"
One of my informants alluded incidentally to
the decoration of the churches, and I may ob-
serve that they used to be far more profusely
decked with Christmas evergreens than at pre-
sent; so much so, that a lady correspondent in
January, 1712, complained to "Mr. Spectator"
that her church-going was bootless. She was
constant at church, to hear divine service and
make conquests; but the clerk had so overdone
the greens in the church that, for three weeks,
Miss Jenny Simper had not even seen the young
baronet, whom she dressed at for divine wor-
ship, although he pursued his devotions only
three pews from hers. The aisle was a pretty
Of all the "branches" in the markets. the
costers buy one-half. This season, holly has
been cheaper than was ever known previously.
In some years, its price was double that cited, in
some treble, when the December was very frosty.
The sale of the May, the fragrant flower of the hawthorn, a tree indigenous to this country -- Wordsworth mentions one which must have been 800 years old -- is carried on by the coster boys (principally), but only in a desultory way. The chief supply is brought to London in the carts or barrows of the costers returning from a country expedition. If the costermonger be accompanied by a lad -- as he always is if the expedition be of any length -- the lad will say to his master, "Bill, let's have some May to take back." The man will almost always con- sent, and often assist in procuring the thickly green branches with their white or rose-tinted, and freshly-smelling flowers. The odour of the hawthorn blossom is peculiar, and some emi- nent botanist -- Dr. Withering if I remember rightly -- says it may be best described as "fresh." No flower, perhaps, is blended with more poetical, antiquarian, and beautiful asso- ciations than the ever-welcome blossom of the may-tree. One gardener told me that as the hawthorn was in perfection in June instead of May, the name was not proper. But it must be remembered that the name of the flower was given during the old style, which carried our present month of May twelve days into June, and the name would then be more ap- propriate.
The May is obtained by the costermongers in
the same way as the holly, by cutting it from
the trees in the hedges. It has sometimes to
be cut or broken off stealthily, for persons may
no more like their hawthorns to be stripped
than their hollies, and an ingenuous lad -- as will
have been observed -- told me of "people's"
objections to the unauthorized stripping of their
holly-bushes. But there is not a quarter of the
difficulty in procuring May that there is in pro-
curing holly at Christmas.
Column 2
The costermonger, if he has "done tidy"
in the country will very probably leave the
May at the disposal of his boy; but a few men,
though perhaps little more than twenty, I was
told, bring it on their own account. The lads
then carry the branches about for sale; or if a
considerable quantity has been brought, dispose
of it to other boys or girls, or entrust them with
the sale of it, at "half-profits," or any terms
agreed upon. Costermongers have been known
to bring home "a load of May," and this not
unfrequently, at the request, and for the benefit
of a "cracked-up" brother-trader, to whom it
has been at once delivered gratuitously.
A lad, whom I met with as he was selling
holly, told me that he had brought may from
the country when he had been there with a
coster. He had also gone out of town a few
miles to gather it on his own account.
"But it ain't no good;" he said; "you must
often go a good way -- I never knows anything
about how many miles -- and if it's very ripe
(the word he used) it's soon shaken. There's
no sure price. You may get 4d. for a big
branch or you must take 1d. I may have
made 1s. on a round but hardly ever more.
It can't be got near hand. There's some stun-
ning fine trees at the top of the park there (the
Regent's Park) the t'other side of the 'logical
Gardens, but there's always a cove looking
after them, they say, and both night and day."
Palm, the flower of any of the numerous
species of the willow, is sold only on Palm
Sunday, and the Saturday preceding. The
trade is about equally in the hands of the
English and Irish lads, but the English lads
have a commercial advantage on the morning
of Palm Sunday, when so many of the Irish
lads are at chapel. The palm is all gathered
by the street-vendors. One costermonger told
me that when he was a lad, he had sold palm
to a man who had managed to get half-drunk
on a Sunday morning, and who told him that
he wanted it to show his wife, who very seldom
stirred out, that he'd been taking a healthful
walk into the country!
Lilac in flower is sold (and procured) in the
same way as May, but in small quantities.
Very rarely indeed, laburnum; which is too
fragile; or syringa, which, I am told, is hardly
saleable in the streets. One informant remem-
bered that forty years ago, when he was a boy,
branches of elder-berry flowers were sold in the
streets, but the trade has disappeared.
It is very difficult to form a calculation as
to the extent of this trade. The best informed
give me reason to believe that the sale of all
these branches (apart from Christmas) ranges,
according to circumstances, from 30l. to 50l., the cost being the labour of gathering, and
the subsistence of the labourer while at the
work. This is independent of what the costers
buy in the markets.
I now show the quantity of branches forming
the street trade: --
| Holly | 59,040 bunches |
| Mistletoe | 56,160 " |
| Ivy and Laurel | 26,640 " |
| Lilac | 5,400 " |
| Palm | 1,008 " |
| May | 2,520 " |
| Total number of bunches sold in the streets from market-sale | 150,000 |
| Add to quantity from other sources | 75,000 |
| 225,768 |
The quantity of branches "from other sources"
is that gathered by the costers in the way I have
described; but it is impossible to obtain a return
of it with proper precision: to state it as half of
that purchased in the markets is a low average.
I now give the amount paid by street-buyers
who indulge in the healthful and innocent tastes
of which I have been treating -- the fondness for
the beautiful and the natural.
| Bunches of | per bunch | |
| 65,280 Violets | at ½d. | \cp\136 |
| 115,200 Wallflowers | " ½d. | 240 |
| 86,400 Mignonette | " 1d. | 360 |
| 1,632 Lilies of the Valley | " ½d. | 3 |
| 20,448 Stocks | " ½d. | 42 |
| 316,800 Pinks and Carnations | " ½d. each | 660 |
| 864,000 Moss Roses | " ½d. " | 1,800 |
| 864,000 China ditto | " ½d. " | 1,800 |
| 296,640 Lavender | " 1d. | 1,236 |
| Total annually | \cp\6,277 |
| per root | ||
| 24,000 Primroses | at ½d. | \cp\50 |
| 34,560 Polyanthuses | " 1d. | 144 |
| 28,800 Cowslips | " ½d. | 50 |
| 33,600 Daisies | " 1d. | 140 |
| 46,080 Wallflowers | " 1d. | 192 |
| 28,800 Candy-tufts | " 1d. | 120 |
| 28,800 Daffodils | " ½d. | 60 |
| 38,400 Violets | " ½d. | 80 |
| 30,380 Mignonette | " ½d. | 63 |
| 23,040 Stocks | " 1d. | 96 |
| 19,200 Pinks and Carnations | " 2d. | 160 |
| 3,456 Lilies of the Valley . | " 1d. | 14 |
| 12,960 Pansies | " 1d. | 54 |
| 660 Lilies | " 2d. | 5 |
| 850 Tulips | " 2d. | 7 |
| 7,704 Balsams | " 2d. | 64 |
| 3,180 Calceolarias | " 2d. | 26 |
| 253,440 Musk Plants | " 1d. | 1,056 |
| 11,520 London Pride | " 1d. | 48 |
| 25,595 Lupins | " 1d. | 106 |
| 9,156 China-asters | " 1d. | 38 |
| 63,360 Marigolds | " ½d. | 132 |
| 852 Dahlias | " 6d. | 21 |
| 13,356 Heliotropes | " 2d. | 111 |
| 1,920 Poppies | " 2d. | 16 |
| 6,912 Michaelmas Daisies . | " ½d. | 14 |
| Total annually | \cp\2,867 |
| Bunches of | per bunch | |
| 59,040 Holly | at 3d. | \cp\738 |
| 56,160 Mistletoe | " 3d. | 702 |
| 26,640 Ivy and Laurel | " 3d. | 333 |
| 5,400 Lilac | " 3d. | 67 |
| 1,008 Palm | " 3d. | 12 |
| 2,520 May | " 3d. | 31 |
| Total annually from Markets | \cp\1,183 | |
| Add one-half as shown | 591 | |
| \cp\2,774 |
| each root | ||
| 9,576 Firs (roots) | at 3d. | \cp\119 |
| 1,152 Laurels | " 3d. | 14 |
| 23,040 Myrtles | " 4d. | 384 |
| 2,160 Rhododendrons | 9d. | 81 |
| 2,304 Lilacs | " 4d | 38 |
| 2,880 Box | " 2d. | 24 |
| 21,888 Heaths | " 4d. | 364 |
| 2,880 Broom | " 1d. | 12 |
| 6,912 Furze | " 1d. | 28 |
| 6,480 Laurustinus | " 8d. | 216 |
| 25,920 Southernwood | 1d. | 108 |
| Total annually spent | \cp\1,388 |
| per root | ||
| 38,880 Moss Roses | at 4d. | \cp\648 |
| 38,880 China ditto | at 2d. | 324 |
| 38,800 Fushias | " 3d. | 485 |
| 12,850 Geraniums and Pelarg- niums (of all kinds) | 3d. | 210 |
| Total annualy | #\cp\1,667 |
The returns give the following aggregate
amount of street expenditure: --
| Trees and shrubs | 1,388 |
| Cut Fowers | 6,277 |
| Flowers in pots | 1,667 |
| Flower roots | 2,867 |
| Branches | 2,774 |
| Seeds | 200 |
| \cp\15,173 |
From the returns we find that of "cut
flowers" the roses retain their old English
favouritism, no fewer than 1,628,000 being
annually sold in the streets; but locality affects
the sale, as some dealers dispose of more violets
than roses, because violets are accounted less
fragile. The cheapness and hardihood of the
musk-plant and marigold, to say nothing of
their peculiar odour, has made them the most
popular of the "roots," while the myrtle is the
favourite among the "trees and shrubs." The
heaths, moreover, command an extensive sale,
-- a sale, I am told, which was unknown, until
eight or ten years ago, another instance of the
"fashion in flowers," of which an informant has
spoken.
water-cresses, and of the chickweed, groundsel,
plantain, and turf required for cage-birds. These
purveyors seem to be on the outskirts, as it were,
of the costermonger class, and, indeed, the regu-
lar costers look down upon them as an inferior
caste. The green-stuff trade is carried on by
very poor persons, and generally, by children or
old people, some of the old people being lame,
or suffering from some infirmity, which, how-
ever, does not prevent their walking about
with their commodities. To the children and
infirm class, however, the turf-cutters supply
an exception. The costermongers, as I have
intimated, do not resort, and do not let their
children resort, to this traffic. If reduced to
the last shift, they will sell nuts or oranges in
preference. The "old hands" have been " re-
duced," as a general rule, from other avocations.
Their homes are in the localities I have specified
as inhabited by the poor.
I was informed by a seller of birds, that he
thought fewer birds were kept by poor working-
people, and even by working-people who had
regular, though, perhaps, diminished earnings,
than was the case six or eight years ago. At
one time, it was not uncommon for a young man
to present his betrothed with a pair of singing-
birds in a neat cage; now such a present, as
far as my informant's knowledge extended -- and
he was a sharp intelligent man -- was but rarely
made. One reason this man had often heard ad-
vanced for poor persons not renewing their birds,
when lost or dead, is pitiful in its plainness --
"they eat too much." I do not know, that, in such
a gift as I have mentioned, there was any intention
on the part of the lover to typify the beauty of
cheerfulness, even in a very close confinement
to home. "I can't tell, sir," was said to me,
"how it may have been originally, but I never
heard such a thing said much about, though
there's been joking about the matter, as when
would the birds have young ones, and such like.
No, sir; I think it was just a fashion." Con-
trary to the custom in more prosperous estab-
lishments, I am satisfied, that, among the
labouring classes, birds are more frequently the
pets of the men than of the women. My bird-
dealing informant cited merely his own ex-
perience, but there is no doubt that cage-birds
are more extensively kept than ever in London;
consequently there is a greater demand for the
"green stuff" the birds require.
The first coster-cry heard of a morning in the London streets is that of "Fresh wo-orter- creases." Those that sell them have to be on their rounds in time for the mechanics' break- fast, or the day's gains are lost. As the stock- money for this calling need only consist of a few Column 2halfpence, it is followed by the very poorest of the poor; such as young children, who have been deserted by their parents, and whose strength is not equal to any very great labour, or by old men and women, crippled by disease or accident, who in their dread of a workhouse life, linger on with the few pence they earn by street- selling.
As winter draws near, the Farringdon cress-
market begins long before daylight. On your
way to the City to see this strange sight, the
streets are deserted; in the squares the blinds
are drawn down before the windows, and the
shutters closed, so that the very houses seem
asleep. All is so silent that you can hear the
rattle of the milkmaids' cans in the neighbour-
ing streets, or the noisy song of three or four
drunken voices breaks suddenly upon you, as if
the singers had turned a corner, and then dies
away in the distance. On the cab-stands, but
one or two crazy cabs are left, the horses dozing
with their heads down to their knees, and the
drawn-up windows covered with the breath of
the driver sleeping inside. At the corners of the
streets, the bright fires of the coffee-stalls sparkle
in the darkness, and as you walk along, the
policeman, leaning against some gas-lamp, turns
his lantern full upon you, as if in suspicion that
one who walks abroad so early could mean no
good to householders. At one house there stands
a man, with dirty boots and loose hair, as if he
had just left some saloon, giving sharp single
knocks, and then going into the road and looking
up at the bed-rooms, to see if a light appeared
in them. As you near the City, you meet, if
it be a Monday or Friday morning, droves of
sheep and bullocks, tramping quietly along to
Smithfield, and carrying a fog of steam with
them, while behind, with his hands in his
pockets, and his dog panting at his heels, walks
the sheep-drover.
At the principal entrance to Farringdon-mar-
ket there is an open space, running the entire
length of the railings in front, and extending
from the iron gates at the entrance to the sheds
down the centre of the large paved court before
the shops. In this open space the cresses are
sold, by the salesmen or saleswomen to whom
they are consigned, in the hampers they are
brought in from the country.
The shops in the market are shut, the gas-
lights over the iron gates burn brightly, and
every now and then you hear the half-smothered
crowing of a cock, shut up in some shed or bird-
fancier's shop. Presently a man comes hurry-
ing along, with a can of hot coffee in each hand,
and his stall on his head, and when he has
arranged his stand by the gates, and placed his
white mugs between the railings on the stone
wall, he blows at his charcoal fire, making the
bright sparks fly about at every puff he gives.
By degrees the customers are creeping up, dressed
The market -- by the time we reach it -- has
just begun; one dealer has taken his seat, and
sits motionless with cold -- for it wants but a
month to Christmas -- with his hands thrust deep
into the pockets of his gray driving coat. Before
him is an opened hamper, with a candle fixed
in the centre of the bright green cresses, and as
it shines through the wicker sides of the basket,
it casts curious patterns on the ground -- as a
night shade does. Two or three customers, with
their "shallows" slung over their backs, and
their hands poked into the bosoms of their
gowns, are bending over the hamper, the light
from which tinges their swarthy features, and
they rattle their halfpence and speak coaxingly
to the dealer, to hurry him in their bargains.
Just as the church clocks are striking five,
a stout saleswoman enters the gates, and in-
stantly a country-looking fellow, in a wagoner's
cap and smock-frock, arranges the baskets he
has brought up to London. The other ladies
are soon at their posts, well wrapped up in warm
cloaks, over their thick shawls, and sit with
their hands under their aprons, talking to the
loungers, whom they call by their names. Now
the business commences; the customers come in
by twos and threes, and walk about, looking at
the cresses, and listening to the prices asked.
Every hamper is surrounded by a black crowd,
bending over till their heads nearly meet, their
foreheads and cheeks lighted up by the candle
in the centre. The saleswomen's voices are
heard above the noise of the mob, sharply
answering all objections that may be made to
the quality of their goods. "They're rather
spotty, mum," says an Irishman, as he examines
one of the leaves. "No more spots than a new-
born babe, Dennis," answers the lady tartly, and
then turns to a new comer. At one basket, a
street-seller in an old green cloak, has spread
out a rusty shawl to receive her bunches, and
by her stands her daughter, in a thin cotton
dress, patched like a quilt. "Ah! Mrs. Dol-
land," cried the saleswoman in a gracious tone,
"can you keep yourself warm? it bites the
fingers like biling water, it do." At another
basket, an old man, with long gray hair stream-
ing over a kind of policeman's cape, is bitterly
complaining of the way he has been treated by
Column 2
another saleswoman. "He bought a lot of her,
the other morning, and by daylight they were
quite white; for he only made threepence on
his best day." "Well, Joe," returns the lady,
"you should come to them as knows you, and
allers treats you well."
These saleswomen often call to each other
from one end of the market to the other. If any
quarrel take place at one of the hampers, as
frequently it does, the next neighbour is sure
to say something. "Pinch him well, Sally,"
cried one saleswoman to another; "pinch him
well; I do when I've a chance." "It's no
use," was the answer; "I might as well try to
pinch a elephant."
One old wrinkled woman, carrying a basket
with an oilcloth bottom, was asked by a buxom
rosy dealer, "Now, Nancy, what's for you?"
But the old dame was surly with the cold, and
sneering at the beauty of the saleswoman, an-
swered, "Why don't you go and get a sweet-
heart; sich as you aint fit for sich as we." This
caused angry words, and Nancy was solemnly
requested "to draw it mild, like a good soul."
As the morning twilight came on, the paved
court was crowded with purchasers. The sheds
and shops at the end of the market grew every
moment more distinct, and a railway-van,
laden with carrots, came rumbling into the
yard. The pigeons, too, began to fly on to the
sheds, or walk about the paving-stones, and
the gas-man came round with his ladder to turn
out the lamps. Then every one was pushing
about; the children crying, as their naked feet
were trodden upon, and the women hurry-
ing off, with their baskets or shawls filled with
cresses, and the bunch of rushes in their hands.
In one corner of the market, busily tying up
their bunches, were three or four girls seated on
the stones, with their legs curled up under them,
and the ground near them was green with the
leaves they had thrown away. A saleswoman,
seeing me looking at the group, said to me,
"Ah! you should come here of a summer's
morning, and then you'd see 'em, sitting tying
up, young and old, upwards of a hundred poor
things as thick as crows in a ploughed field."
As it grew late, and the crowd had thinned;
none but the very poorest of the cress-sellers
were left. Many of these had come without
money, others had their halfpence tied up care-
fully in their shawl-ends, as though they dreaded
the loss. A sickly-looking boy, of about five,
whose head just reached above the hampers,
now crept forward, treading with his blue naked
feet over the cold stones as a cat does over wet
ground. At his elbows and knees, his skin
showed in gashes through the rents in his
clothes, and he looked so frozen, that the buxom
saleswoman called to him, asking if his mother
had gone home. The boy knew her well, for
without answering her question, he went up to
her, and, as he stood shivering on one foot,
said, "Give us a few old cresses, Jinney," and
in a few minutes was running off with a green
bundle under his arm. All of the saleswomen
As you walk home -- although the apprentice
is knocking at the master's door -- the little
water-cress girls are crying their goods in every
street. Some of them are gathered round the
pumps, washing the leaves and piling up the
bunches in their baskets, that are tattered and
worn as their own clothing; in some of the
shallows the holes at the bottom have been laced
up or darned together with rope and string, or
twigs and split laths have been fastened across;
whilst others are lined with oilcloth, or old pieces
of sheet-tin. Even by the time the cress-market
is over, it is yet so early that the maids are beat-
ing the mats in the road, and mechanics, with
their tool-baskets swung over their shoulders, are
still hurrying to their work. To visit Farring-
don-market early on a Monday morning, is the
only proper way to judge of the fortitude and
courage and perseverance of the poor. As
Douglas Jerrold has beautifully said, "there is
goodness, like wild honey, hived in strange
nooks and corners of the earth." These poor
cress-sellers belong to a class so poor that their
extreme want alone would almost be an excuse
for theft, and they can be trusted paying the
few pence they owe even though they hunger
for it. It must require no little energy of con-
science on the part of the lads to make them
resist the temptations around them, and refuse
the luring advice of the young thieves they meet
at the low lodging-house. And yet they prefer
the early rising -- the walk to market with naked
feet along the cold stones -- the pinched meal --
and the day's hard labour to earn the few
halfpence -- to the thief's comparatively easy
life. The heroism of the unknown poor is
a thing to set even the dullest marvelling, and
in no place in all London is the virtue of the
humblest -- both young and old -- so conspicuous
as among the watercress-buyers at Farringdon-
market.
The dealers in water-cresses are generally very old or very young people, and it is a trade greatly in the hands of women. The cause of this is, that the children are sent out by their parents Column 2"to get a loaf of bread somehow" (to use the words of an old man in the trade), and the very old take to it because they are unable to do hard labour, and they strive to keep away from the workhouse -- ("I'd do anything before I'd go there -- sweep the crossings, or anything: but I should have had to have gone to the house before, if it hadn't been for my wife. I'm sixty-two," said one who had been sixteen years at the trade). The old people are both men and women. The men have been sometimes one thing, and some- times another. "I've been a porter myself," said one,"jobbing about in the markets, or wherever I could get a job to do. Then there's one old man goes about selling water-cresses who's been a seafaring man; he's very old, he is -- older than what I am, sir. Many a one has been a good mechanic in his younger days, only he's got too old for labour. The old women have, many of them, been laundresses, only they can't now do the work, you see, and so they're glad to pick up a crust anyhow. Nelly, I know, has lost her husband, and she hasn't nothing else but her few creases to keep her. She's as good, honest, hard-working a creature as ever were, for what she can do -- poor old soul! The young people are, most of them, girls. There are some boys, but girls are generally put to it by the poor people. There's Mary Macdonald, she's about fourteen. Her father is a bricklayer's labourer. He's an Englishman, and he sends little Mary out to get a halfpenny or two. He gets some- times a couple of days' work in the week. He don't get more now, I'm sure, and he's got three children to keep out of that; so all on 'em that can work are obligated to do something. The other two children are so small they can't do nothing yet. Then there's Louisa; she's about twelve, and she goes about with creases like I do. I don't think she's got ne'er a father. I know she's a mother alive, and she sells creases like her daughter. The mother's about fifty odd, I dare say. The sellers generally go about with an arm-basket, like a greengrocer's at their side, or a `shallow' in front of them; and plenty of them carry a small tin tray before them, slung round their neck. Ah! it would make your heart ache if you was to go to Farringdon-mar- ket early, this cold weather, and see the poor little things there without shoes and stockings, and their feet quite blue with the cold -- oh, that they are, and many on 'em don't know how to set one foot before the t'other, poor things' You would say they wanted something give to 'em."
The small tin tray is generally carried by the
young children. The cresses are mostly bought
in Farringdon-market: "The usual time to go
to the market is between five and six in the
morning, and from that to seven," said one in-
formant; "myself, I am generally down in the
market by five. I was there this morning at five,
and bitter cold it was, I give you my word. We
poor old people feel it dreadful. Years ago I
didn't mind cold, but I feel it now cruel bad, to
be sure. Sometimes, when I'm turning up my
"The sellers goes to market with a few pence.
I myself goes down there and lays out some-
times my 4d.; that's what I laid out this morn-
ing. Sometimes I lay out only 2d. and 3d., according as how I has the halfpence in my
pocket. Many a one goes down to the market
with only three halfpence, and glad to have that
to get a halfpenny, or anything, so as to earn a
mouthful of bread -- a bellyful that they can't
get no how. Ah, many a time I walked through
the streets, and picked a piece of bread that the
servants chucked out of the door -- may be to
the birds. I've gone and picked it up when I've
been right hungry. Thinks I, I can eat that as
well as the birds. None of the sellers ever goes
down to the market with less than a penny.
They won't make less than a pennorth, that's
one `hand,' and if the little thing sells that, she
won't earn more than three halfpence out of it.
After they have bought the creases they gene-
rally take them to the pump to wet them. I
generally pump upon mine in Hatton-garden.
It's done to make them look nice and fresh all
the morning, so that the wind shouldn't make
them flag. You see they've been packed all
night in the hamper, and they get dry. Some
ties them up in ha'porths as they walks along.
Many of them sit down on the steps of St.
Andrew's Church and make them up into
bunches. You'll see plenty of them there of a
morning between five and six. Plenty, poor
little dear souls, sitting there," said the old man
to me. There the hand is parcelled out into five
halfpenny bunches. In the summer the dealers
often go to market and lay out as much as 1s.
"On Saturday morning, this time of year, I
buys as many as nine hands -- there's more call
for 'em on Saturday and Sunday morning than
on any other days; and we always has to buy
on Saturdays what we want for Sundays -- there
an't no market on that day, sir. At the market
sufficient creases are bought by the sellers for
the morning and afternoon as well. In the
morning some begin crying their creases through
Column 2
the streets at half-past six, and others about
seven. They go to different parts, but there is
scarcely a place but what some goes to -- there
are so many of us now -- there's twenty to one
to what there used to be. Why, they're so thick
down at the market in the summer time, that
you might bowl balls along their heads, and all
a fighting for the creases. There's a regular
scramble, I can assure you, to get at 'em, so as
to make a halfpenny out of them. I should
think in the spring mornings there's 400 or 500
on 'em down at Farringdon-market all at one
time -- between four and five in the morning -- if
not more than that, and as fast as they keep
going out, others keep coming in. I think
there is more than a thousand, young and old,
about the streets in the trade. The working
classes are the principal of the customers. The
bricklayers, and carpenters, and smiths, and
plumbers, leaving work and going home to
breakfast at eight o'clock, purchase the chief
part of them. A great many are sold down
the courts and mews, and bye streets, and
very few are got rid of in the squares and
the neighbourhood of the more respectable
houses. Many are sold in the principal
thoroughfares -- a large number in the City.
There is a man who stands close to the Post-
office, at the top of Newgate-street, winter and
summer, who sells a great quantity of bunches
every morning. This man frequently takes
between 4s. and 5s. of a winter's morning, and
about 10s. a day in the summer." "Sixteen
years ago," said the old man who gave me the
principal part of this information, "I could
come out and take my 18s. of a Saturday morn-
ing, and 5s. on a Sunday morning as well; but
now I think myself very lucky if I can take my
1s. 3d., and it's only on two mornings in the
week that I can get that." The hucksters of
watercresses are generally an honest, indus-
trious, striving class of persons. The young
girls are said to be well-behaved, and to be the
daughters of poor struggling people. The old
men and women are persons striving to save
themselves from the workhouse. The old and
young people generally travel nine and ten
miles in the course of the day. They start off
to market at four and five, and are out on their
morning rounds from seven till nine, and on
their afternoon rounds from half-past two to five
in the evening. They travel at the rate of two
miles an hour. "If it wasn't for my wife, I
must go to the workhouse outright," said the
old watercress man. "Ah, I do'nt know what
I should do without her, I can assure you. She
earns about 1s. 3d. a day. She takes in a little
washing, and keeps a mangle. When I'm at
home I turn the mangle for her. The mangle
is my own. When my wife's mother was alive
she lent us the money to buy it, and as we
earnt the money we paid her back so much a
week. It is that what has kept us together, or
else we shouldn't have been as we are. The
mangle we give 50s. for, and it brings us in now
1s. 3d. a day with the washing. My wife is
The little watercress girl who gave me the
following statement, although only eight years
of age, had entirely lost all childish ways, and
was, indeed, in thoughts and manner, a woman.
There was something cruelly pathetic in hearing
this infant, so young that her features had
scarcely formed themselves, talking of the bit-
terest struggles of life, with the calm earnest-
ness of one who had endured them all. I did
not know how to talk with her. At first I
treated her as a child, speaking on childish sub-
jects; so that I might, by being familiar with
her, remove all shyness, and get her to narrate
her life freely. I asked her about her toys and
her games with her companions; but the look
of amazement that answered me soon put an
end to any attempt at fun on my part. I then
talked to her about the parks, and whether she
ever went to them. "The parks!" she replied
in wonder, "where are they?" I explained
to her, telling her that they were large open
places with green grass and tall trees, where
beautiful carriages drove about, and people
walked for pleasure, and children played. Her
eyes brightened up a little as I spoke; and
she asked, half doubtingly, "Would they let
such as me go there -- just to look?" All her
knowledge seemed to begin and end with water-
cresses, and what they fetched. She knew no
more of London than that part she had seen on
her rounds, and believed that no quarter of the
town was handsomer or pleasanter than it was at
Farringdon-market or at Clerkenwell, where she
lived. Her little face, pale and thin with priva-
tion, was wrinkled where the dimples ought to
have been, and she would sigh frequently. When
some hot dinner was offered to her, she would
not touch it, because, if she eat too much, "it
made her sick," she said; "and she wasn't
used to meat, only on a Sunday."
The poor child, although the weather was
severe, was dressed in a thin cotton gown, with
a threadbare shawl wrapped round her shoulders.
She wore no covering to her head, and the long
rusty hair stood out in all directions. When she
walked she shuffled along, for fear that the
large carpet slippers that served her for shoes
should slip off her feet.
"I go about the streets with water-creases,
crying, `Four bunches a penny, water-creases.'
I am just eight years old -- that's all, and I've a
big sister, and a brother and a sister younger
than I am. On and off, I've been very near a
Column 2
twelvemonth in the streets. Before that, I had
to take care of a baby for my aunt. No, it
wasn't heavy -- it was only two months old; but
I minded it for ever such a time -- till it could
walk. It was a very nice little baby, not a very
pretty one; but, if I touched it under the chin,
it would laugh. Before I had the baby, I used
to help mother, who was in the fur trade; and,
if there was any slits in the fur, I'd sew them
up. My mother learned me to needle-work and
to knit when I was about five. I used to go to
school, too; but I wasn't there long. I've forgot
all about it now, it's such a time ago; and mother
took me away because the master whacked me,
though the missus use'n't to never touch me. I
didn't like him at all. What do you think? he
hit me three times, ever so hard, across the face
with his cane, and made me go dancing down
stairs; and when mother saw the marks on my
cheek, she went to blow him up, but she couldn't
see him -- he was afraid. That's why I left
school.
"The creases is so bad now, that I haven't
been out with 'em for three days. They're so
cold, people won't buy 'em; for when I goes up
to them, they say, `They'll freeze our bellies.'
Besides, in the market, they won't sell a ha'penny
handful now -- they're ris to a penny and tup-
pence. In summer there's lots, and 'most as
cheap as dirt; but I have to be down at Far-
ringdon-market between four and five, or else I
can't get any creases, because everyone almost
-- especially the Irish -- is selling them, and
they're picked up so quick. Some of the sales-
women -- we never calls 'em ladies -- is very kind
to us children, and some of them altogether
spiteful. The good one will give you a bunch
for nothing, when they're cheap; but the others,
cruel ones, if you try to bate them a farden less
than they ask you, will say, `Go along with you,
you're no good.' I used to go down to market
along with another girl, as must be about four-
teen, 'cos she does her back hair up. When we've
bought a lot, we sits down on a door-step, and
ties up the bunches. We never goes home to
breakfast till we've sold out; but, if it's very
late, then I buys a penn'orth of pudden, which
is very nice with gravy. I don't know hardly
one of the people, as goes to Farringdon, to talk
to; they never speaks to me, so I don't speak to
them. We children never play down there, 'cos
we're thinking of our living. No; people never
pities me in the street -- excepting one gentleman,
and he says, says he, `What do you do out so
soon in the morning?' but he gave me nothink
-- he only walked away.
"It's very cold before winter comes on reg'-
lar -- specially getting up of a morning. I gets
up in the dark by the light of the lamp in the
court. When the snow is on the ground, there's
no creases. I bears the cold -- you must; so I
puts my hands under my shawl, though it hurts
'em to take hold of the creases, especially when
we takes 'em to the pump to wash 'em. No; I
never see any children crying -- it's no use.
"Sometimes I make a great deal of money.
"I always give mother my money, she's so
very good to me. She don't often beat me; but,
when she do, she don't play with me. She's
very poor, and goes out cleaning rooms some-
times, now she don't work at the fur. I ain't
got no father, he's a father-in-law. No; mother
ain't married again -- he's a father-in-law. He
grinds scissors, and he's very good to me. No;
I dont mean by that that he says kind things to
me, for he never hardly speaks. When I gets
home, after selling creases, I stops at home. I
puts the room to rights: mother don't make me
do it, I does it myself. I cleans the chairs,
though there's only two to clean. I takes a tub
and scrubbing-brush and flannel, and scrubs the
floor -- that's what I do three or four times a
week.
"I don't have no dinner. Mother gives me
two slices of bread-and-butter and a cup of tea
for breakfast, and then I go till tea, and has the
same. We has meat of a Sunday, and, of course,
I should like to have it every day. Mother has
just the same to eat as we has, but she takes
more tea -- three cups, sometimes. No; I never
has no sweet-stuff; I never buy none -- I don't
like it. Sometimes we has a game of ` honey-
pots' with the girls in the court, but not often.
Me and Carry H -- carries the little 'uns. We
plays, too, at `kiss-in-the-ring.' I knows a good
many games, but I don't play at 'em, 'cos going
out with creases tires me. On a Friday night,
too, I goes to a Jew's house till eleven o'clock
on Saturday night. All I has to do is to snuff
the candles and poke the fire. You see they
keep their Sabbath then, and they won't touch
anything; so they gives me my wittals and 1½d., and I does it for 'em. I have a reg'lar good lot
to eat. Supper of Friday night, and tea after
that, and fried fish of a Saturday morning, and
meat for dinner, and tea, and supper, and I like
it very well.
"Oh, yes; I've got some toys at home. I've
a fire-place, and a box of toys, and a knife and
fork, and two little chairs. The Jews gave 'em
to me where I go to on a Friday, and that's why
I said they was very kind to me. I never had
no doll; but I misses little sister -- she's only
two years old. We don't sleep in the same room;
for father and mother sleeps with little sister in
the one pair, and me and brother and other sis-
ter sleeps in the top room. I always goes to
bed at seven, 'cos I has to be up so early.
"I am a capital hand at bargaining -- but
only at buying watercreases. They can't take
me in. If the woman tries to give me a small
handful of creases, I says, `I ain't a goin' to
Column 2
have that for a ha'porth,' and I go to the next
basket, and so on, all round. I know the
quantities very well. For a penny I ought to
have a full market hand, or as much as I could
carry in my arms at one time, without spilling.
For 3d. I has a lap full, enough to earn about
a shilling; and for 6d. I gets as many as crams
my basket. I can't read or write, but I knows
how many pennies goes to a shilling, why,
twelve, of course, but I don't know how many
ha'pence there is, though there's two to a penny.
When I've bought 3d. of creases, I ties 'em up
into as many little bundles as I can. They
must look biggish, or the people won't buy
them, some puffs them out as much as they'll
go. All my money I earns I puts in a club
and draws it out to buy clothes with. It's
better than spending it in sweet-stuff, for them
as has a living to earn. Besides it's like a child
to care for sugar-sticks, and not like one who's
got a living and vittals to earn. I aint a child,
and I shan't be a woman till I'm twenty, but
I'm past eight, I am. I don't know nothing
about what I earns during the year, I only
know how many pennies goes to a shilling, and
two ha'pence goes to a penny, and four fardens
goes to a penny. I knows, too, how many
fardens goes to tuppence -- eight. That's as
much as I wants to know for the markets."
The market returns I have obtained show the
following result of the quantity vended in the
streets, and of the receipts by the cress-sellers: --
| Market | Quantity sold wholesale. | Proportion retailed in the Streets. |
| Covent Garden | 1,578,000 bunches | one-eighth. |
| Farringdon | 12,960,000 " | one-half. |
| Borough | 180,000 " | one-half. |
| Spitalfields | 180,000 " | one-half. |
| Portman | 60,000 " | one-third. |
| Total | 14,958,000 " |
From this sale the street cress-sellers re-
ceive: --
| Bunches. | Receipts | |
| Farringdon | 6,480,000 ½d. per bunch | \cp\13,500 |
| Covent Garden | 16,450 " | 34 |
| Borough | 90,000 " | 187 |
| Spitalfields | 90,000 " | 187 |
| Portman | 20,000 " | 41 |
| \cp\13,949 |
The discrepancy in the quantity sold in the
respective markets is to be accounted for by the
fact, that Farringdon is the water-cress market
to which are conveyed the qualities, large-
The discrepancy is further accounted for
because the other market salesmen buy cresses
at Farringdon; but I have given under the head
of Farringdon all that is sold to those other
markets to be disposed to the street-sellers, and
the returns from the other markets are of the
cresses carried direct there, apart from any
purchases at Farringdon.
I mentioned that I received a letter inform-
ing me that a woman, residing in one of the
courts about Saffron-hill, was making braces,
and receiving only 1s. for four dozen of them. I
was assured she was a most deserving character,
strictly sober, and not receiving parochial relief.
"Her husband," my informant added, "was
paralysed, and endeavoured to assist his family
by gathering green food for birds. They are in
deep distress, but their character is irreproach-
able." I found the couple located up a court,
the entrance to which was about as narrow as
the opening to a sentry-box, and on each side
lolled groups of labourers and costermongers,
with short black pipes in their mouths. As I
dived into the court, a crowd followed me to see
whither I was going. The brace-maker lived
on the first floor of a crazy, foetid house. I
ascended the stairs, and the banisters, from
which the rails had all been purloined, gave
way in my hands. I found the woman, man,
and their family busy at their tea-dinner. In
a large broken chair, beside the fire-place, was
the old paralysed man, dressed in a ragged
greasy fustian coat, his beard unshorn, and his
hair in the wildest disorder. On the edge of
the bed sat a cleanly looking woman, his wife,
with a black apron on. Standing by the table
was a blue-eyed laughing and shoeless boy,
with an old camlet cape pinned over his shoul-
ders. Next him was a girl in a long grey pin-
afore, with her hair cut close to her head, with
the exception of a few locks in front, which
hung down over her forehead like a dirty fringe.
On a chair near the window stood a basket half
full of chickweed and groundsel, and two large
cabbages. There was a stuffed linnet on the
Column 2
mantel-piece and an empty cage hanging out-
side the window. In front of the window-sill
was the small imitation of a gate and palings,
so popular among the workpeople. On the
table were a loaf, a few mugs of milkless tea
and a small piece of butter in a saucer. I had
scarcely entered when the mother began to re-
move the camlet cape from the boy's shoulders,
and to slip a coarse clean pinafore over his
head instead. At present I have only to deal
with the trade of the husband, who made the
following statement:
"I sell chickweed and grunsell, and turfs
for larks. That's all I sell, unless it's a few
nettles that's ordered. I believe they're for tea,
sir. I gets the chickweed at Chalk Farm. I
pay nothing for it. I gets it out of the public
fields. Every morning about seven I goes for
it. The grunsell a gentleman gives me leave
to get out of his garden: that's down Battle-
bridge way, in the Chalk-road, leading to Hol-
loway. I gets there every morning about nine.
I goes there straight. After I have got my chick-
weed, I generally gathers enough of each to make
up a dozen halfpenny bunches. The turfs I
buys. A young man calls here with them. I
pay 2d. a dozen for 'em to him. He gets them
himself. Sometimes he cuts 'em at Kilburn
Wells; and Notting-hill he goes to sometimes,
I believe. He hires a spring barrow, weekly,
to take them about. He pays 4d. a day, I be-
lieve, for the barrow. He sells the turfs to the
bird-shops, and to such as me. He sells a
few to some private places. I gets the nettles
at Highgate. I don't do much in the nettle
line -- there ain't much call for it. After I've
gathered my things I puts them in my basket,
and slings 'em at my back, and starts round
London. Low Marrabun I goes to always of a
Saturday and Wednesday. I goes to St. Pan-
cras on a Tuesday. I visit Clerkenwell, and
Russell-square, and round about there, on a
Monday. I goes down about Covent-garden
and the Strand on a Thursday. I does High
Marrabun on a Friday, because I aint able to
do so much on that day, for I gathers my stuff
on the Friday for Saturday. I find Low Mar-
rabun the best of my beats. I cry `chickweed
and grunsell' as I goes along. I don't say `for
young singing birds.' It is usual, I know, but
I never did. I've been at the business about
eighteen year. I'm out in usual till about five
in the evening. I never stop to eat. I'm walk-
ing all the time. I has my breakfast afore I
starts, and my tea when I comes home." Here
the woman shivered. I turned round and found
the fire was quite out. I asked them whether
they usually sat without one. The answer was,
"We most generally raise a pennyworth, some
how, just to boil the kettle with." I inquired
whether she was cold, and she assured me she
wasn't. "It was the blood," she said, "that
ran through her like ice sometimes." "I am a
walking ten hours every day -- wet or dry," the
man continued. "I don't stand nice much
about that. I can't go much above one mile
There are no "pitches," or stands, for the
sale of groundsel in the streets; but, from the
best information I could acquire, there are now
1,000 itinerants selling groundsel, each person
selling, as an average, 18 bunches a day. We
thus have 5,616,000 bunches a year, which, at
½d. each, realise 11,700l. -- about 4s. 2d. per week
per head of sellers of groundsel. The "oldest
hand" in the trade is the man whose state-
ment and likeness I give. The sale continues
through the year, but "the groundsel" season
extends from April to September; in those
months 24 bunches, per individual seller, is the
extent of the traffic, in the other months half
that quantity, giving the average of 18 bunches.
The capital required for groundsel-selling is
4d. for a brown wicker-basket; leather strap to
sling it from the shoulder, 6d.; in all, 10d. No
knife is necessary; they pluck the groundsel.
Chickweed is only sold in the summer, and is
most generally mixed with groundsel and plan-
tain. The chickweed and plantain, together, are
but half the sale of groundsel, and that only for
five months, adding, to the total amount, 2,335l.
But this adds little to the profits of the regular
itinerants; for, when there is the best demand,
there are the greatest number of sellers, who in
winter seek some other business. The total
amount of "green stuff" expended upon birds,
as supplied by the street-sellers, I give at the
close of my account of the trade of those pur-
veyors.
Many of the groundsel and chickweed-sellers
-- for the callings are carried on together -- who
are aged men, were formerly brimstone-match
sellers, who "didn't like to take to the lucifers."
On the publication of this account in the
Morning Chronicle, several sums were forwarded
to the office of that journal for the benefit of
this family. These were the means of removing
them to a more comfortable home, of redeeming
their clothing, and in a measure realizing the
wishes of the poor woman.
A man long familiar with this trade, and who
knew almost every member of it individually,
counted for me 36 turf-cutters, to his own know-
ledge, and was confident that there were 40 turf-
cutters and 60 sellers in London; the addition
of the sellers, however, is but that of 10 women,
who assist their husbands or fathers in the street
sales, -- but no women cut turf, -- and of 10 men
who sell, but buy of the cutters.
The turf is simply a sod, but it is considered
indispensable that it should contain the leaves
of the "small Dutch clover," (the shamrock of
the Irish), the most common of all the trefoils.
The turf is used almost entirely for the food and
roosting-place of the caged sky-larks. Indeed
one turf-cutter said to me: "It's only people
that don't understand it that gives turf to other
birds, but of course if we're asked about it, we
say it's good for every bird, pigeons and chickens
and all; and very likely it is if they choose to
have it." The principal places for the cutting
of turf are at present Shepherd's Bush, Notting
Hill, the Caledonian Road, Hampstead, High-
gate, Hornsey, Peckham, and Battersea. Chalk
Farm was an excellent place, but it is now
exhausted, "fairly flayed" of the shamrocks.
Parts of Camden Town were also fertile in turf,
but they have been built over. Hackney was a
district to which the turf-cutters resorted, but
they are now forbidden to cut sods there. Hamp-
stead Heath used to be another harvest-field for
these turf-purveyors, but they are now prohibited
from "so much as sticking a knife into the
Heath;" but turf-cutting is carried on surrepti-
tiously on all the outskirts of the Heath, for
there used to be a sort of feeling, I was told,
among some real Londoners that Hampstead
Heath yielded the best turf of any place. All
the "commons" and "greens," Paddington,
Camberwell, Kennington, Clapham, Putney, &c.
are also forbidden ground to the turf-cutter.
"O, as to the parks and Primrose Hill itself --
round about it's another thing -- nobody," it was
answered to my inquiry, "ever thought of cut-
ting their turf there. The people about, if they
was only visitors, wouldn't stand it, and right
too. I wouldn't, if I wasn't in the turf-cutting
myself."
The places where the turf is principally cut
are the fields, or plots, in the suburbs, in which
may be seen a half-illegible board, inviting the
attention of the class of speculating builders to
an "eligible site" for villas. Some of these
places are open, and have long been open, to
the road; others are protected by a few crazy
rails, and the turf-cutters consider that outside
the rails, or between them and the road, they
I accompanied a turf-cutter, to observe the
manner of his work. We went to the neighbour-
hood of Highgate, which we reached a little
before nine in the morning. There was nothing
very remarkable to be observed, but the scene
was not without its interest. Although it was
nearly the middle of January, the grass was
very green and the weather very mild. There
happened to be no one on the ground but my
companion and myself, and in some parts of our
progress nothing was visible but green fields
with their fringe of dark-coloured leafless trees;
while in other parts, which were somewhat more
elevated, glimpses of the crowded roof of an
omnibus, or of a line of fleecy white smoke,
showing the existence of a railway, testified to
the neighbourhood of a city; but no sound was
heard except, now and then, a distant railway
whistle. The turf-cutter, after looking carefully
about him -- the result of habit, for I was told
afterwards, by the policeman, that there was no
trespass -- set rapidly to work. His apparatus
was a sharp-pointed table-knife of the ordinary
size, which he inserted in the ground, and made
it rapidly describe a half-circle; he then as
rapidly ran his implement in the opposite half-
circle. flung up the sod, and, after slapping it
with his knife, cut off the lower part so as to
leave it flat -- working precisely as does a butcher
cutting out a joint or a chop, and reducing the
fat. Small holes are thus left in the ground --
Column 2
of such shape and size as if deep saucers were
to be fitted into them -- and in the event of a
thunder-shower in droughty weather, they be-
come filled with water, and have caused a puzzle-
ment, I am told, to persons taking their quiet
walk when the storm had ceased, to comprehend
why the rain should be found to gather in little
circular pools in some parts, and not in others.
The man I accompanied cut and shaped six
of these turfs in about a minute, but he worked
without intermission, and rather to show me
with what rapidity and precision he could cut,
than troubling himself to select what was sale-
able. After that we diverged in the direction
of Hampstead; and in a spot not far from a
temporary church, found three turf-cutters at
work, -- but they worked asunder, and without
communication one with another. The turfs, as
soon as they are cut and shaped, are thrown into
a circular basket, and when the basket is full
it is emptied on to the barrow (a costermonger's
barrow), which is generally left untended at the
nearest point: "We can trust one another, as
far as I know," said one turf-man to me, "and
nobody else would find it worth while to steal
turfs." The largest number of men that my
most intelligent informant had ever seen at work
in one locality was fourteen, and that was in a
field just about to be built over, and "where
they had leave." Among the turf-purveyors
there is no understanding as to where they are
to "cut." Wet weather does not interfere with
turf procuring; it merely adds to the weight,
and consequently to the toil of drawing the
barrow. Snow is rather an advantage to the
street-seller, as purchasers are apt to fancy that
if the storm continues, turfs will not be obtain-
able, and so they buy more freely. The turf-
man clears the snow from the ground in any
known locality -- the cold pinching his ungloved
hands -- and cuts out the turf, "as green," I was
told, "as an April sod." The weather most
dreaded is that when hoar frost lies long and
heavy on the ground, for the turf cut with the
rime upon it soon turns black, and is unsaleable.
Foggy dark weather is also prejudicial, "for
then," one man said, "the days clips it uncom-
mon short, and people won't buy by candlelight,
no more will the shops. Birds has gone to sleep
then, and them that's fondest on them says,
`We can get fresher turf to-morrow.' " The
gatherers cannot work by moonlight; "for the
clover leaves then shuts up," I was told by one
who said he was a bit of a botanist, "like the
lid of a box, and you can't tell them."
One of my informants told me that he cut
25 dozen turfs every Friday (the great working
turf-day) of the year on an average (he some-
times cut on that day upwards of 30 dozen);
17 dozen on a Tuesday; and 6 dozen on the
other days of the week, more or less, as the
demand justified -- but 6 dozen was an average.
He had also cut a few turfs on a Sunday morn-
ing, but only at long intervals, sometimes only
thrice a year. Thus one man will cut 2,496
dozen, or 29,952 turfs in a year, not reckoning
In wet weather, 6 dozen turfs weigh, on an
average, 1 cwt.; in dry weather, 8 dozen weigh
no more; if, therefore, we take 7 dozen as the
usual hundred-weight, a turf-cutter of the best
class carries, in basket-loads, to his barrow, and
when his stock is completed, drags into town
from the localities I have specified, upwards
of 3½ cwt. every Friday, nearly 2½ every Tues-
day, and about 7 cwt. in the course of a week;
the smaller traders drag half the quantity, -- and
the total weight of turf disposed of for the cage-
birds of London, every year, is 546 tons.
Of the supply of turf, obtained as I have
described, at least three-fourths is sold to the
bird-shops, who retail it to their customers. The
price paid by these shopkeepers to the labourers
for their turf trade is 2d. and 2½d. a dozen, but
rarely 2½d. They retail it at from 3d. to 6d. a dozen, according to connection and locality.
The remainder is sold by the cutters on their
rounds from house to house, at two and three a
penny.
None of the turf-cutters confine themselves
to it. They sell in addition groundsel, chick-
weed, plaintain, very generally; and a few sup-
ply nettles, dandelion, ground-ivy, snails, worms,
frogs, and toads. The sellers of groundsel and
chickweed are far more numerous, as I have
shown, than the turf-cutters -- indeed many of
them are incapable of cutting turf or of drag-
ging the weight of the turfs.
A short but strongly-built man, of about thirty,
with a very English face, and dressed in a
smock-frock, wearing also very strong unblacked
boots, gave me the following account: --
"My father," he said, "was in the Earl of
-- 's service, and I was brought up to stable-
work. I was employed in a large coaching inn,
in Lancashire, when I was last employed in
that way, but about ten years ago a railway line
was opened, and the coaching was no go any
longer; it hadn't a chance to pay, so the horses
and all was sold, and I was discharged with a
lot of others. I walked from Manchester to
London -- for I think most men when they don't
know what in the world to do, come to London --
and I lived a few months on what little money
I had, and what I could pick up in an odd job
about horses. I had some expectations when
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I came up that I might get something to do
through my lord, or some of his people -- they
all knew me: but my lord was abroad, and his
establishment wasn't in town, and I had to
depend entirely on myself. I was beat out three
or four times, and didn't know what to do, but
somehow or other I got over it. At last -- it's
between eight and nine years ago -- I was fairly
beat out. I was taking a walk -- I can't say just
now in what way I went, for it was all one
which way -- but I remember I saw a man cut-
ting turf, and I remembered then that a man
that lived near me lived pretty middling by
turf-cutting. So I watched how it was done,
and then I inquired how I could get into it, and
as I'd paid my way I could give reference to
show I might be trusted; so I got a barrow on
hire, and a basket, and bought a knife for 3d. at
a marine-shop, and set to work. At first I only
supplied shops, but in a little time I fell into a
private round, and that pays better. I've been
at it almost every day, I may say, ever since.
My best customers are working people that's
fond of birds; they're far the best. It's the
ready penny with them, and no grumbling.
I've lost money by trusting noblemen; of course
I blame their servants. You'd be surprised, sir,
to hear how often at rich folks' houses, when
they've taken their turf or what they want,
they'll take credit and say, `O, I've got no
change,' or `I can't be bothered with ha'pence,'
or `you must call again.' There's one great
house in Cavendish -- square always takes a
month's credit, and pays one month within an-
other (pays the first month as the second is
falling due), and not always that very regular.
They can't know how poor men has to fight for
a bit of bread. Some people are very particular
about their turfs, and look very sharp for the
small clover leaves. We never have turfs left
on hand: in summer we water them to keep
them fresh; in wet weather they don't require
it; they'll keep without. I think I make on
turf 9s. a week all the year round; the sum-
mer's half as good again as the winter. Sup-
posing I make 3s. a week on groundsel, and
chickweed, and snails, and other things, that's
12s. -- but look you here, sir. I pay 3s. 6d. a
week for my rent -- it's a furnished room -- and
1s. 6d. a week for my barrow; that's 5s. off the
12s.; and I've a wife and one little boy. My
wife may get a day at least every week at
charring; she has 1s. for it and her board. She
helps me when she's not out, and if she is out,
I sometimes have to hire a lad, so it's no great
advantage the shilling a day. I've paid 1s. 6d. a week for my barrow -- it's a very good and big
one -- for four years. Before that I paid 2s. a
week. O yes, sir, I know very well, that at
1s. 6d. a week I've paid nearly 14l. for a barrow
worth only 2l. 2s.; but I can't help it; I really
can't. I've tried my hardest to get money to
have one of my own, and to get a few sticks
(furniture) of my own too. It's no use trying
any more. If I have ever got a few shillings
a-head, there's a pair of shoes wanted, or there's
Plantain is sold extensively, and is given to canaries, but water-cress is given to those birds more than any other green thing. It is the ripe seed, in a spike, of the "great" and the "ribbed" plantain. The green leaves of the last-men- tioned plant used to be in demand as a styptick. Shenstone speaks of "plantain ribbed, that heals Column 2the reaper's wound." I believe that it was never sold in the streets of London. The most of the plantain is gathered in the brick-fields, wherever they are found, as the greater plan- tain, which gives three-fourths of the supply, loves an arid situation. It is sold in hands to he shops, about 60 "heads" going to a "hand," at a price, according to size, &c., from 1d. to 4d. On a private round, five or six are given for a halfpenny. It is, however, generally gathered and sold with chickweed, and along with chickweed I have shown the quantity used.
The money-value of the several kinds and
quantities of "green-stuff" annually purchased
in the streets of London is as follows: --
| 6,696,450 bunches of water-cresses, at ½d. per bunch | \cp\13,949 |
| 5,616,000 " groundsel, at ½d. | 11,700 |
| 1,120,800 " chickweed and plantain | 2,335 |
| 660;000 turfs, at 2½d. per doz. | 520 |
| 28,504 |
Of the above amount, it may be said that
upwards of 14,000l. are spent yearly on what
may be called the bird-food of London.
These dealers were, more numerous, even when the metropolitan population was but half its present extent. I heard several causes assigned for this, -- such as the higher rate of earnings of the labouring people at that time, as well as the smaller number of shopkeepers who deal in such cheap luxuries as penny pies, and the fewer places of cheap amusement, such as the "penny gaffs." These places, I was told, "run away with the young people's pennies," which were, at one period, expended in the streets.
The class engaged in the manufacture, or in
the sale, of these articles, are a more intelligent
people than the generality of street-sellers.
They have nearly all been mechanics who, from
inability to procure employment at their several
crafts -- from dislike to an irksome and, perhaps,
sedentary confinement -- or from an overpower-
ing desire "to be their own masters," have
sought a livelihood in the streets. The purchase
and sale of fish, fruit, or vegetables require no
great training or deftness; but to make the
dainties, in which street-people are critical, and
to sell them at the lowest possible price, certainly
requires some previous discipline to produce
the skill to combine and the taste to please.
I may here observe, that I found it common
enough among these street-sellers to describe
Column 2
themselves and their fraternity not by their
names or callings, but by the article in which
they deal. This is sometimes ludicrous enough:
"Is the man you're asking about a pickled
whelk, sir?" was said to me. In answer to
another inquiry, I was told, "Oh, yes, I know
him -- he's a sweet-stuff." Such ellipses, or
abbreviations, are common in all mechanical or
commercial callings.
Men and women, and most especially boys,
purchase their meals day after day in the streets.
The coffee-stall supplies a warm breakfast;
shell-fish of many kinds tempt to a luncheon;
hot-eels or pea-soup, flanked by a potato "all
hot," serve for a dinner; and cakes and tarts,
or nuts and oranges, with many varieties of
pastry, confectionary, and fruit, woo to indul-
gence in a dessert; while for supper there is a
sandwich, a meat pudding, or a "trotter."
The street provisions consist of cooked or
prepared victuals, which may be divided into
solids, pastry, confectionary, and drinkables.
The "solids" however, of these three divi-
sions, are such as only regular street-buyers
consider to be sufficing for a substantial meal,
for it will be seen that the comestibles accounted
"good for dinner," are all of a dainty, rather
than a solid character. Men whose lives, as I
have before stated, are alternations of starvation
The solids then, according to street estima-
tion, consist of hot-eels, pickled whelks, oysters,
sheep's-trotters, pea-soup, fried fish, ham-sand-
wiches, hot green peas, kidney puddings, boiled
meat puddings, beef, mutton, kidney, and eel
pies, and baked potatos. In each of these pro-
visions the street poor find a mid-day or mid-
night meal.
The pastry and confectionary which tempt
the street eaters are tarts of rhubarb, currant,
gooseberry, cherry, apple, damson, cranberry,
and (so called) mince pies; plum dough and
plum-cake; lard, currant, almond and many
other varieties of cakes, as well as of tarts;
gingerbread-nuts and heart-cakes; Chelsea
buns; muffins and crumpets; "sweet stuff"
includes the several kinds of rocks, sticks, lozen-
ges, candies, and hard-bakes; the medicinal
confectionary of cough-drops and horehound;
and, lastly, the more novel and aristocratic
luxury of street-ices; and strawberry cream, at
1d. a glass, (in Greenwich Park).
The drinkables are tea, coffee, and cocoa;
ginger-beer, lemonade, Persian sherbet, and
some highly-coloured beverages which have no
specific name, but are introduced to the public
as "cooling" drinks; hot elder cordial or
wine; peppermint water; curds and whey;
water (as at Hampstead); rice milk; and milk
in the parks.
At different periods there have been attempts to
introduce more substantial viands into the street
provision trade, but all within these twenty
years have been exceptional and unsuccessful.
One man a few years back established a port-
able cook-shop in Leather-lane, cutting out
portions of the joints to be carried away or eaten
on the spot, at the buyer's option. But the
speculation was a failure. Black puddings
used to be sold, until a few years back, smoking
from cans, not unlike potato cans, in such
places as the New Cut; but the trade in these
rather suspicious articles gradually disappeared.
Mr. Albert Smith, who is an acute observer
in all such matters, says, in a lively article on
the Street Boys of London:
"The kerb is his club, offering all the advan-
tages of one of those institutions without any
subscription or ballot. Had he a few pence,
he might dine equally well as at Blackwall,
and with the same variety of delicacies without
going twenty yards from the pillars of St.
Clement's churchyard. He might begin with
a water souchée of eels, varying his first course
with pickled whelks, cold fried flounders, or
periwinkles. Whitebait, to be sure, he would
Column 2
find a difficulty in procuring, but as the more
cunning gourmands do not believe these deli-
cacies to be fish at all, but merely little bits
of light pie-crust fried in grease; -- and as
moreover, the brown bread and butter is after
all the grand attraction, -- the boy might soon
find a substitute. Then would come the
potatos, apparently giving out so much steam
that the can which contains them seems in
momentary danger of blowing up; large, hot,
mealy fellows, that prove how unfounded were
the alarms of the bad-crop-ites; and he might
next have a course of boiled feet of some animal
or other, which he would be certain to find in
front of the gin-shop. Cyder-cups perhaps he
would not get; but there would be ` ginger-
beer from the fountain, at 1d. per glass;' and
instead of mulled claret, he could indulge in
hot elder cordial; whilst for dessert he could
calculate upon all the delicacies of the season,
from the salads at the corner of Wych-street
to the baked apples at Temple Bar. None of
these things would cost more than a penny a
piece; some of them would be under that sum;
and since as at Verey's, and some other foreign
restaurateurs, there is no objection to your
dividing the "portions," the boy might, if he
felt inclined to give a dinner to a friend, get off
under 6d. There would be the digestive
advantage too of moving leisurely about from
one course to another; and, above all, there
would be no fee to waiters." After alluding
to the former glories of some of the street-
stands, more especially of the kidney pudding
establishments which displayed rude transpa-
rencies, one representing the courier of St.
Petersburg riding six horses at once for a
kidney pudding, Mr. Smith continues, -- "But
of all these eating-stands the chief favourite
with the boy is the potato-can. They collect
around it as they would do on 'Change, and
there talk over local matters, or discuss the
affairs of the adjacent cab-stand, in which they
are at times joined by the waterman whom they
respect, more so perhaps than the policeman;
certainly more than they do the street-keeper,
for him they especially delight to annoy, and
they watch any of their fellows eating a potato,
with a curiosity and an attention most remark-
able, as if no two persons fed in the same
manner, and they expected something strange
or diverting to happen at every mouthful."
A gentleman, who has taken an artist's inte-
rest in all connected with the streets, and has
been familiar with their daily and nightly aspect
from the commencement of the present century,
considers that the great change is not so much
in what has ceased to be sold, but in the intro-
duction of fresh articles into street-traffic -- such
as pine-apples and Brazil-nuts, rhubarb and
cucumbers, ham-sandwiches, ginger-beer, &c.
The coffee-stall, he represents, has but super-
seded the saloop-stall (of which I have previ-
ously spoken); while the class of street-custom-
ers who supported the saloop-dealer now support
the purveyor of coffee. The appearance of the
The little sweep would have his saloop smoking
hot -- and there was the common appliance of a
charcoal grate -- regaling himself with the sa-
voury steam until the mess was cool enough for
him to swallow; whilst he sought to relieve his
naked feet from the numbing effects of the cold
by standing now on the right foot and now on
the left, and swinging the other to and fro, until
a change of posture was necessitated; his white
teeth the while gleamed from his sooty visage as
he gleefully licked his lips at the warm and oily
breakfast.
The old hackney-coachman was wrapped up
in a many-caped great coat, drab -- when it left
the tailor's hands some years before -- but then
worn and discoloured, and, perhaps, patched or
tattered; its weight alone, however, communi-
cated a sort of warmth to the wearer; his legs
were closely and artistically "wisped" with hay-
bands; and as he kept smiting his chest with his
arms, "to keep the cold out," while his saloop
was cooling, he would, in no very gentle terms,
express his desire to add to its comforting in-
fluence the stimulant of a "flash of lightning,"
a "go of rum," or a "glass of max," -- for so a
dram of neat spirit was then called.
The old watchman of that day, too, almost as
heavily coated as the hackneyman, would some-
times partake of the street "Saloop-loop-loop!
Sa-loop!" The woman of the town, in "looped
and windowed raggedness," the outcast of the
very lowest class, was at the saloop, as she is
now and then at the coffee-stall, waiting until
daylight drove her to her filthy lodging-house.
But the climbing-boy has, happily, left no suc-
cessor; the hackneyman has been succeeded by
the jauntier cabman; and the taciturn old
watchman by the lounging and trim policeman.
Another class of street-sellers, no longer to
be seen, were the "barrow-women." They sold
fruit of all kinds, little else, in very clean white
barrows, and their fruit was excellent, and pur-
chased by the wealthier classes. They were, for
the most part, Irish women, and some were re-
markable for beauty. Their dress was usually
a good chintz gown, the skirt being tidily tucked
or pinned up behind, "in a way," said one in-
formant, "now sometimes seen on the stage when
correctness of costume is cared for." These
women were prosperous in their calling, nor was
there any imputation on their chastity, as the
mothers were almost always wives.
Concerning the bygone street-cries, I had
also the following account from the personal
observation of an able correspondent: --
"First among the old `mnsical cries,' may
be cited the `Tiddy Doll!' -- immortalised by
Hogarth -- then comes the last person, who,
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with a fine bass voice, coaxed his customers to
buy sweets with, `Quack, quack, quack, quack!
Browns, browns, browns! have you got any
mouldy browns?' There was a man, too, who
sold tripe, &c., in this way, and to some purpose;
he was as fine a man as ever stepped, and his
deep rich voice would ring through a whole
street, `Dog's-meat! cat's-meat! nice tripe!
neat's feet! Come buy my trotters!' The last
part would not have disgraced Lablache. He
discovered a new way of pickling tripe -- got on
-- made contracts for supplying the Navy during
the war, and acquired a large property. One of
our most successful artists is his grandson.
Then there was that delight of our childhood --
the eight o'clock `Hot spiced gingerbread! hot
spiced gingerbread! buy my spiced gingerbread!
sm-o-o-king hot!' " Another informant remem-
bered a very popular character (among the boys),
whose daily cry was: "Hot spiced gingerbread
nuts, nuts, nuts! If one'll warm you, wha-at'll
a pound do? -- Wha-a-a-at'll a pound do?"
Gingerbread was formerly in much greater de-
mand than it is now.
Two of the condiments greatly relished by the
chilled labourers and others who regale them-
selves on street luxuries, are "pea-soup" and
"hot eels." Of these tradesmen there may be
500 now in the streets on a Saturday. As the
two trades are frequently carried on by the
same party, I shall treat of them together. The
greatest number of these stands is in Old-street,
St. Luke's, about twenty. In warm weather
these street-cooks deal only in "hot eels" and
whelks; as the whelk trade is sometimes an ac-
companiment of the others, for then the soup will
not sell. These dealers are stationary, having
stalls or stands in the street, and the savoury
odour from them attracts more hungry-looking
gazers and longers than does a cook-shop window.
They seldom move about, but generally frequent
the same place. A celebrated dealer of this class
has a stand in Clare-street, Clare-market, op-
posite a cat's-meat shop; he has been heard to
boast, that he wouldn't soil his hands at the busi-
ness if he didn't get his 30s. a day, and his 2l. 10s. on a Saturday. Half this amount is considered to
be about the truth. This person has mostly all
the trade for hot eels in the Clare-market dis-
trict. There is another "hot eel purveyor" at
the end of Windmill-street, Tottenham-court-
road, that does a very good trade. It is thought
that he makes about 5s. a day at the business,
and about 10s. on Saturday. There was, before
the removals, a man who came out about five
every afternoon, standing in the New-cut, nearly
opposite the Victoria Theatre, his "girl" always
attending to the stall. He had two or three
lamps with "hot eels" painted upon them, and
a handsome stall. He was considered to make
about 7s. a day by the sale of eels alone, but he
dealt in fried fish and pickled whelks as well, and
often had a pile of fried fish a foot high. Near the
I may add, that even the very poorest, who
have only a halfpenny to spend, as well as
those with better means, resort to the stylish
stalls in preference to the others. The eels
are all purchased at Billingsgate early in the
morning. The parties themselves, or their sons
or daughters, go to Billingsgate, and the water-
men row them to the Dutch eel vessels moored
off the market. The fare paid to the watermen
is 1d. for every 10lbs. purchased and brought
back in the boat, the passenger being gratis.
These dealers generally trade on their own
capital; but when some have been having "a
flare up," and have "broke down for stock,"
to use the words of my informant, they borrow
1l., and pay it back in a week or a fortnight at
the outside, and give 2s. for the loan of it. The
money is usually borrowed of the barrow, truck,
and basket-lenders. The amount of capital re-
quired for carrying on the business of course
depends on the trade done; but even in a small
way, the utensils cost 1l. They consist of one
fish-kettle and one soup-kettle, holding upon an
average three gallons each; besides these, five
basins and five cups and ten spoons are re-
quired, also a washhand basin to wash the cups,
basins, and spoons in, and a board and tressel
on which the whole stand. In a large way, it re-
quires from 3l. to 4l. to fit up a handsome stall.
For this the party would have "two fine kettles,"
holding about four gallons each, and two patent
cast-iron fireplaces (the 1l. outfit only admits of
the bottoms of two tin saucepans being used as
fireplaces, in which charcoal is always burning
to keep the eels and soup hot; the whelks are
always eaten cold). The crockery and spoons
would be in no way superior. A small dealer
requires, over and above this sum, 10s. to go to
market with and purchase stock, and the large
dealer about 30s. The Class of persons belong-
ing to the business have either been bred to it,
or taken to it through being out of work. Some
have been disabled during their work, and have
resorted to it to save themselves from the work-
house. The price of the hot eels is a halfpenny
for five or seven pieces of fish, and three-parts
of a cupfull of liquor. The charge for a half-
Column 2
pint of pea-soup is a halfpenny, and the whelks
are sold, according to the size, from a halfpenny
each to three or four for the same sum. These
are put out in saucers.
The eels are Dutch, and are cleaned and
washed, and cut in small pieces of from a half
to an inch each. [The daughter of one of my
informants was busily engaged, as I derived this
information, in the cutting of the fish. She
worked at a blood-stained board, with a pile of
pieces on one side and a heap of entrails on the
other.] The portions so cut are then boiled, and
the liquor is thickened with flour and flavoured
with chopped parsley and mixed spices. It is
kept hot in the streets, and served out, as I have
stated, in halfpenny cupfulls, with a small quan-
tity of vinegar and pepper. The best purveyors
add a little butter. The street-boys are extra-
vagant in their use of vinegar.
To dress a draught of eels takes three hours --
to clean, cut them up, and cook them sufficiently;
and the cost is now 5s. 2d. (much lower in the
summer) for the draught (the 2d. being the ex-
pense of "shoring"), 8d. for 4 lb. of flour to
thicken the liquor, 2d. for the parsley to flavour
it, and 1s. 6d. for the vinegar, spices, and pepper
(about three quarts of vinegar and two ounces
of pepper). This quantity, when dressed and
seasoned, will fetch in halfpennyworths from
15s. to 18s. The profit upon this would be
from 7s. to 9s. 6d.; but the cost of the charcoal
has to be deducted, as well as the salt used while
cooking. These two items amount to about 5d.
The pea-soup consists of split peas, celery,
and beef bones. Five pints, at 3½d. a quart, are
used to every three gallons; the bones cost 2d., carrots 1d., and celery ½d. -- these cost 1s. 0¼d.; and the pepper, salt, and mint, to season it,
about 2d. This, when served in halfpenny basin-
fulls, will fetch from 2s. 3d. to 2s. 4d., leaving
1s. 1d. profit. But from this the expenses of
cooking must be taken; so that the clear gain
upon three gallons comes to about 11d. In a
large trade, three kettles, or twelve gallons, of
pea-soup will be disposed of in the day, and
about four draughts, or 80 lbs., of hot eels on
every day but Saturday, -- when the quantity of
eels disposed of would be about five draughts, or
100 lbs. weight, and about 15 gallons of pea-
soup. Hence the profits of a good business in
the hot-eel and pea-soup line united will be from
7l. to 7l. 10s. per week, or more. But there is
only one man in London does this amount of
business, or rather makes this amount of money.
A small business will do about 15 lbs. of eels in
the week, including Saturday, and about 12 gal-
lons of soup. Sometimes credit is given for a
halfpennyworth, or a pennyworth, at the out-
side; but very little is lost from bad debts.
Boys who are partaking of the articles will occa-
sionally say to the proprietor of the stall, "Well,
master, they are nice; trust us another ha'-
p'orth, and I'll pay you when I comes again;"
but they are seldom credited, for the stall-keepers
know well they would never see them again.
Very often the stock cooked is not disposed of,
The dealers go out about half-past ten in the
morning, and remain out till about ten at night.
Monday is the next best day to Saturday. The
generality of the customers are boys from 12 to
16 years of age. Newsboys are very partial
to hot eels -- women prefer the pea-soup. Some
of the boys will have as many as six halfpenny
cupfulls consecutively on a Saturday night; and
some women will have three halfpenny basins-
full of soup. Many persons in the cold weather
prefer the hot soup to beer. On wet, raw, chilly
days, the soup goes off better than usual, and
in fine weather there is a greater demand for the
hot eels. One dealer assured me that he once
did serve two gentlemen's servants with twenty-
eight halfpenny cupfulls of hot eels one after
another. One servant had sixteen, and the other
twelve cupfulls, which they ate all at one stand-
ing; and one of these customers was so partial
to hot eels, that he used to come twice a day
every day for six months after that, and have
eight cupfulls each day, four at noon and four
in the evening. These two persons were the best
customers my informant ever had. Servants,
however, are not generally partial to the com-
modity. Hot eels are not usually taken for
dinner, nor is pea-soup, but throughout the
whole day, and just at the fancy of the passers-
by. There are no shops for the sale of these
articles. The dealers keep no accounts of what
their receipts and expenditure are.
The best time of the year for the hot eels is
from the middle of June to the end of August.
On some days during that time a person in a
small way of business will clear upon an average
1s. 6d. a day, on other days 1s.; on some days,
during the month of August, as much as 2s. 6d. a day. Some cry out "Nice hot eels -- nice hot
eels!" or "Warm your hands and fill your
bellies for a halfpenny." One man used to give
his surplus eels, when he considered his sale
completed on a night, to the poor creatures
refused admission into a workhouse, lending
them his charcoal fire for warmth, which was
always returned to him. The poor creatures
begged cinders, and carried the fire under a
railway arch. The general rule, however, is for
the dealer to be silent, and merely expose the
articles for sale. "I likes better," said one man
to me, "to touch up people's noses than their
heyes or their hears." There are now in the
trade almost more than can get a living at it,
and their earnings are less than they were
formerly. One party attributed this to the
opening of a couple of penny-pie shops in his
neighbourhood. Before then he could get 2s. 6d. a day clear, take one day with another; but
since the establishment of the business in the
penny-pie line he cannot take above 1s. 6d. a
day clear. On the day the first of these pie-
shops opened, it made as much as 10 lbs., or half
a draught of eels, difference to him. There was
Column 2
a band of music and an illumination at the pie-
shop, and it was impossible to stand against
that. The fashionable dress of the trade is the
"Jenny Lind" or "wide-awake" hat, with a
broad black ribbon tied round it, and a white
apron and sleeves. The dealers usually go to
Hampton-court or Greenwich on a fine Sunday.
They are partial to the pit of Astley's. One of
them told his waterman at Billingsgate the other
morning that "he and his good lady had been
werry amused with the osses at Hashley's last
night."
"I was a coalheaver," said one of the class
to me, as I sat in his attic up a close court,
watching his wife "thicken the liquor;" "I
was a-going along the plank, from one barge
to another, when the swell of some steamers
throwed the plank off the `horse,' and chucked
me down, and broke my knee agin the side of
the barge. Before that I was yarning upon an
average my 20s. to 30s. a week. I was seven
months and four days in King's College Hos-
pital after this. I found they was a-doing me
no good there, so I come out and went over to
Bartholemy's Hospital. I was in there nine-
teen months altogether, and after that I was a
month in Middlesex Hospital, and all on 'em
turned me out oncurable. You see, the bone's
decayed -- four bits of bone have been taken
from it. The doctor turned me out three
times 'cause I wouldn't have it off. He asked
my wife if she would give consent, but neither
she nor my daughter would listen to it, so I
was turned out on 'em all. How my family
lived all this time it's hard to tell. My eldest
boy did a little -- got 3s. 6d. a week as an
errand-boy, and my daughter was in service,
and did a little for me; but that was all we had
to live upon. There was six children on my
hands, and however they did manage I can't
say. After I came out of the hospital I applied
to the parish, and was allowed 2s. 6d. a week
and four loaves. But I was anxious to do
something, so a master butcher, as I knowed,
said he would get me `a pitch' (the right to
fix a stall), if I thought I could sit at a stall
and sell a few things. I told him I thought
I could, and would be very thankful for it.
Well, I had heard how the man up in the
market was making a fortune at the hot-eel and
pea-soup line. [A paviour as left his barrow
and two shovels with me told me to-day, said
the man, by way of parenthesis -- `that he
knowed for a fact he was clearing 6l. a week
regular.'] So I thought I'd have a touch at
the same thing. But you see, I never could
rise money enough to get sufficient stock to
make a do of it, and never shall, I expect -- it
don't seem like it, however. I ought to have
5s. to go to market with to-morrow, and I ain't
got above 1s. 6d.; and what's that for stock-
money, I'd like to know? Well, as I was
saying, the master butcher lent me 10s. to
In the hot-eel trade are now 140 vendors,
each selling 6 lb. of eels daily at their stands;
60 sell 40 lb. daily; and 100 are itinerant,
Column 2
selling 5 lb. nightly at the public-houses. The
first mentioned take 2s. daily; the second 16s.; and the third 1s. 8d. This gives a street ex-
penditure in the trade in hot eels of 19,448l. for
the year.
To start in this business a capital is required
after this rate: -- stall 6s.; basket 1s.; eel-ket-
tle 3s. 6d.; jar 6d.; ladle 4d.; 12 cups 1s.; 12 spoons 1s.; stew-pan 2s.; chafing-dish 6d.; strainer 1s.; 8 cloths 2s. 8d.; a pair sleeves
4d.; apron 4d.; charcoal 2s. (4d. being an
average daily consumption); ¼ cwt. coal 3½d.; ½ lb. butter (the weekly average) 4d.; 1 quar-
tern flour 5d.; 4 oz. pepper 4d.; I quart
vinegar 10d.; 1 lb. salt ½d.; 1 lb. candles for
stall 6d.; parsley 3d.; stock-money 10s. In
all 1l. 15s. In the course of a year the pro-
perty which may be described as fixed, as in
the stall, &c., and the expenditure daily occur-
ring as for stock, butter, coal, according to
the foregoing statement, amounts to 15,750l. The eels purchased for this trade at Billings-
gate are 1,166,880 lb., costing, at 3d. per lb.,
12,102l.
In the pea-soup trade there are now one half
of the whole number of the hot-eel vendors;
of whom 100 will sell, each 4 gallons daily;
and of the remaining 50 vendors, each will sell
upon an average 10 gallons daily. The first
mentioned take 3s. daily; and the last 7s. 6d. This gives a street expenditure of 4,050l. during
the winter season of five months.
To commence business in the street sale of
pea-soup a capital is required after this rate:
soup-kettle 4s.; peas 2s.; soup-ladle 6d.; pepper-box 1d.; mint-box 3d.; chafing-dish
6d.; 12 basons 1s.; 12 spoons 1s.; bones,
celery, mint, carrots, and onions, 1s. 6d. In
all 10s. 10d. The hot-eel trade being in con-
junction with the pea-soup, the same stall,
candles, towels, sleeves, and aprons, does for
both, and the quantity of extra coal and char-
coal; pepper and salt given in the summary
of hot-eels serves in cooking, &c., both eels and
pea-soup.
The trade in whelks is one of which the coster- mongers have the undisputed monopoly. The wholesale business is all transacted in Billings- gate, where this shell-fish is bought by the measure (a double peck or gallon), half-measure, or wash. A wash is four measures, and is the most advantageous mode of purchase; "It's so much cheaper by taking that quantity," I was told, "it's as good as having a half-measure in." An average price for the year may be 4s. the wash; "But I've given 21s. for three wash," said one costermonger, and he waxed indignant as he spoke, "one Saturday, when there was a great stock in too, just because there was a fair coming on on Monday, and the whelkmen, who are the biggest rogues in Billingsgate, always have the price up then, and hinder a poor man
About one-half of the whelks are sold alive
(wholesale), and the other half "cooked"
(boiled), some of the salesmen having " conve-
nience for cooking" near the market; but they
are all brought to London alive, "or what
should be alive." When bought alive, which
ensures a better quality, I was told -- for
"whelks 'll boil after they're dead and gone,
you see, sir, as if they was alive and hungry" --
the costermonger boils them in the largest sauce-
pan at his command for about ten minutes, and
then leaves them until they cool. "They never
kicks as they boils, like lobsters or crabs," said
one whelk dealer, "they takes it quiet. A mis-
sionary cove said to me, `Why don't you kill
them first? it's murder.' They doesn't suffer;
I've suffered more with a toothach than the
whole of a measure of whelks has in a boiling,
that I'm clear upon." The boiling is generally
the work of the women. The next process is to
place them in a tub, throw boiling water over
them, and stir them up for ten or fifteen minutes
with a broom-handle. If the quantity be a wash,
two broom-handles, usually wielded by the man
and his wife, are employed. This is both to
clean them and "to make them come out easier
to be wormed." The "worming" is equivalent
to the removing of the beard of an oyster or
mussel. The whelks are wormed one by one.
The operator cuts into the fish, rapidly draws
out the "worm," and pushes the severed parts
together, which closes. The small whelks are
not wormed, "because it's not reckoned neces-
sary, and they're sold to poor lads and such
like, that's not particular; but nearly all the
women, and a good many of the boys, are very
particular. They think the worm's poison."
The whelks are next shaken in a tub, in cold
water, and are then ready for sale. The same
process, after the mere boiling, is observed,
when the whelks are bought "cooked."
Some whelk-sellers, who wish to display a
superior article, engage children for a few half-
pence to rub the shell of every whelk, so that it
looks clean and even bright.
I find a difficulty, common in the course of
this inquiry, of ascertaining precisely the num-
ber of whelk-sellers, because the sale is often
carried on simultaneously with that of other
things, (stewed eels, for instance,) and because
it is common for costermongers to sell whelks
on a Saturday night only, both at stalls and
"round to the public-houses," but only when
they are cheap at Billingsgate. On a Saturday
night there may be 300 whelk-sellers in the
streets, nearly half at stalls, and half, or more,
"working the public-houses." But of this
number it must be understood that perhaps the
wife is at the stall while the husband is on a
round, and some whelks are sent out by a man
having an extra stock. This, therefore, reduces
the number of independent dealers, but not the
actual number of sellers. On all other nights
Column 2
there may be half the number engaged in this
traffic, in the streets regularly all the year; and
more than half on a Monday, as regards the
public-house business, in which little is done
between Monday and Saturday nights. But a
man will, in some instances, work the public-
houses every night (the wife tending the stall),
and the more assiduously if the weather be bad
or foggy, when a public-house custom is the best.
A fair week's earnings in whelks, "when a man's
known," is 1l. a bad week is from 5s. to 8s. I am assured that bad weeks are "as plenty as
good, at least, the year round;" and thus the
average to the street whelk-sellers, in whelks
alone, is about 13s. when the trade is carried on
daily and regularly, and 5s. a week by those who
occasionally resort to it; and as the occasional
hands are the more numerous, the average may
be struck at 7s.
The whelks are sold at the stalls at two, three,
four, six, and eight a penny, according to size.
Four is an average pennyworth for good whelks;
the six a penny are small, and the eight a penny
very small. The principal place for their sale is
in Old-street, City-road. The other principal
places are the street-markets, which I have
before particularised. The whelks are sold in
saucers, generally small and white, and of
common ware, and are contained in jars, ready
to be "shelled" into any saucer that may have
been emptied. Sometimes a small pyramid of
shells, surmounted by a candle protected by a
shade, attracts the regard of the passer-by.
The man doing the best business in London
was to be found, before the removals of which I
have spoken, in Lambeth-walk, but he has now
no fixed locality. His profits, I am informed,
were regularly 3l. a week; but out of this he
had to pay for the assistance of two or some-
times three persons, in washing his whelks,
boiling them, &c.; besides that, his wife was as
busy as himself. To the quality and cleanliness
of his whelks he was very attentive, and would
sell no mediocre article if better could be
bought. "He deserved all he earned, sir,"
said another street-dealer to me; "why, in
Old-street now they'll have the old original
saucers, miserable things, such as they had
fifty years back; but the man we're talking
of, about two years ago, brought in very pretty
plates, quite enterprising things, and they
answered well. His example's spreading, but
it's slowly." The whelks are eaten with vinegar
and pepper.
For sale in the public-houses, the whelks are
most frequently carried in jars, and transferred
in a saucer to the consumer. "There's often a
good sale," said a man familiar with the busi-
ness, "when a public room's filled. People
drinking there always want to eat. They buy
whelks, not to fill themselves, but for a relish. A
man that's used to the trade will often get off
inferior sorts to the lushingtons; he'll have
them to rights. Whelks is all the same, good,
bad, or middling, when a man's drinking, if
they're well seasoned with pepper and vinegar.
The trade is carried on by the regular costers,
but of the present number of whelk-sellers, about
twenty have been mechanics or servants. The
whelk-trade is an evening trade, commencing
generally about six, summer and winter, or an
hour earlier in winter.
The capital required to start in the whelk-
business is: stall, 2s. 6d.; saucers, vinegar-bottle,
jar, pepper-castor, and small watering-pan (used
only in dusty weather), 2s. 6d.; a pair of stilts
(supports for the stall), 1s. 6d.; stock-money, 5s.; pepper and vinegar, 6d., or 12s. in all. If the
trade be commenced in a round basket, for
public-house sale, 7s. or 8s. only is required,
but it is a hazardous experiment for a person
unpractised in street business.
count. He had been connected with street-
trading from his youth up, and is now about
thirty:
"The chief customers for whelks, sir, are
working people and poor people, and they pre-
fer them to oysters; I do myself, and I think
they're not so much eaten because they're not
fashionable like oysters. But I've sold them to
first-rate public-houses, and to doctors' shops --
more than other shops, I don't know why -- and
to private houses. Masters have sent out their
servant-maids to me for three or four penn'orths
for supper. I've offered the maids a whelk, but
they won't eat them in the street; I dare say
they're afraid their young men may be about,
and might think they wasn't ladies if they eat
whelks in the street. Boys are the best custo-
mers for `small,' but if you don't look sharp,
you'll be done out of three-ha'porth of vinegar
to a ha'porth of whelks. I can't make out why
they like it so. They're particular enough in
their way. If the whelks are thin, as they will
be sometimes, the lads will say, `What a lot of
snails you've gathered to-night!' If they're
plump and fine, then they'll say, `Fat' uns to-
night -- stunners!' Some people eat whelks for
an appetite; they give me one, and more in
summer than winter. The women of the town
are good customers, at least they are in the Cut
and Shoreditch, for I know both. If they have
five-penn'orth, when they're treated perhaps,
there's always sixpence. They come on the
sly sometimes, by themselves, and make what's
a meal, I'm satisfied, on whelks, and they'll
want credit sometimes. I've given trust to a
woman of that sort as far as 2s. 6d. I've lost
very little by them; I don't know how much
altogether. I keep no account, but carry any
credit in my head. Those women's good pay,
take it altogether, for they know how hard it is
to get a crust, and have a feeling for a poor
man, if they haven't for a rich one -- that's my
Column 2
opinion, sir. Costermongers in a good time
are capital customers; they'll buy five or six
penn'orths at a time. The dust's a great in-
jury to the trade in summer time; it dries the
whelks up, and they look old. I wish whelks
were cheaper at Billingsgate, and I could do
more business; and I could do more if I could
sell a few minutes after twelve on a Saturday
night, when people must leave the public-house.
I have sold three wash of a Saturday night, and
cleared 15s. on them. I one week made 3l., but
I had a few stewed eels to help, -- that is, I
cleared 2l., and had a pound's worth over on
the Saturday night, and sent them to be sold --
and they were sold -- at Battersea on the Sun-
day; I never went there myself. I've had
twenty people round my stall at one time on a
Saturday. Perhaps my earnings on that (and
other odd things) may come to 1l. a week, or
hardly so much, the year round. I can't say
exactly. The shells are no use. Boys have
asked me for them `to make sea-shells of,'
they say -- to hold them to their ears when
they're big, and there's a sound like the
sea rolling. Gentlemen have sometimes told
me to keep a dozen dozen or twenty dozen,
for borders to a garden. I make no charge
for them -- just what a gentleman may please
to give.
The information given shows an outlay of
5,250l. yearly for street whelks, and as the return
I have cited shows the money spent in whelks at
Billingsgate to be 2,500l., the number of whelks
being 4,950,000, the account is correct, as the
coster's usual "half-profits" make up the sum
expended.
years formed a portion of the street trade is
fried fish. The sellers are about 350, as a
maximum and 250 as a minimum, 300 being an
average number. The reason of the variation
in number is, that on a Saturday night, and
occasionally on other nights, especially on Mon-
days, stall-keepers sell fried fish, and not as an
ordinary article of their trade. Some men, too,
resort to the trade for a time, when they cannot
be employed in any way more profitable or
suitable to them. The dealers in this article
are, for the most part, old men and boys, though
there may be 30 or 40 women who sell it, but
only 3 or 4 girls, and they are the daughters of
the men in the business as the women are the
wives. Among the fried-fish sellers there are
not half a dozen Irish people, although fish is
so especial a part of the diet of the poor Irish.
The men in the calling have been, as regards
the great majority, mechanics or servants;
none, I was told, had been fishmongers, or their
assistants.
The fish fried by street dealers is known as
"plaice dabs" and "sole dabs," which are
merely plaice and soles, "dab" being a com-
The fish to be fried is first washed and gut-
ted; the fins, head, and tail are then cut off,
and the trunk is dipped in flour and water, so
that in frying, oil being always used, the skin
will not be scorched by the, perhaps, too violent
action of the fire, but merely browned. Pale
rape oil is generally used. The sellers, how-
ever, are often twitted with using lamp oil, even
when it is dearer than that devoted to the pur-
pose. The fish is cooked in ordinary frying-
pans. One tradesman in Cripplegate, formerly
a costermonger, has on his premises a commo-
dious oven which he had built for the frying, or
rather baking, of fish. He supplies the small
shopkeepers who deal in the article (although
some prepare it themselves), and sells his fish
retail also, but the street-sellers buy little of
him, as they are nearly all "their own cooks."
Some of the "illegitimates," however, lay in
their stock by purchase of the tradesman in
question. The fish is cut into portions before
it is fried, and the frying occupies about ten
minutes. The quantity prepared together is
from six to twenty portions, according to the
size of the pans; four dozen portions, or
"pieces," as the street people call them, re-
quire a quart of oil.
The fried fish-sellers live in some out of the
way alley, and not unfrequently in garrets; for
among even the poorest class there are great
objections to their being fellow-lodgers, on
account of the odour from the frying. Even
when the fish is fresh (as it most frequently is),
and the oil pure, the odour is rank. In one
place I visited, which was, moreover, admirable
for cleanliness, it was very rank. The cooks,
however, whether husbands or wives -- for the
women often attend to the pan -- when they
hear of this disagreeable rankness, answer that
Column 2
it may be so, many people say so; but for their
parts they cannot smell it at all. The gar-
ments of the fried-fish sellers are more strongly
impregnated with the smell of fish than were
those of any "wet" or other fish-sellers whom
I met with. Their residences are in some of
the labyrinths of courts and alleys that run
from Gray's-inn-lane to Leather-lane, and
similar places between Fetter and Chancery-
lanes. They are to be found, too, in the courts
running from Cow-cross, Smithfield; and from
Turnmill-street and Ray-street, Clerkenwell;
also, in the alleys about Bishopsgate-street and
the Kingsland-road, and some in the half-
ruinous buildings near the Southwark and
Borough-roads. None, or very few, of those
who are their own cooks, reside at a greater
distance than three miles from Billingsgate. A
gin-drinking neighbourhood, one coster said,
suits best, "for people hasn't their smell so
correct there."
The sale is both on rounds and at stalls, the
itinerants being twice as numerous as the station-
ary. The round is usually from public-house
to public-house, in populous neighbourhoods.
The itinerants generally confine themselves to
the trade in fried fish, but the stall-keepers
always sell other articles, generally fish of some
kind, along with it. The sale in the public-
houses is the greatest.
At the neighbouring races and fairs there is
a great sale of fried fish. At last Epsom races,
I was told, there were at least fifty purveyors
of that dainty from London, half of them per-
haps being costermongers, who speculated in it
merely for the occasion, preparing it themselves.
Three men joined in one speculation, expending
8l. in fish, and did well, selling at the usual
profit of cent. per cent, but with the drawback
of considerable expenses. Their customers at
the races and fairs are the boys who hold horses
or brush clothes, or who sell oranges or nuts,
or push at roundabouts, and the costers who are
there on business. At Epsom races there was
plenty of bread, I was informed, to be picked
up on the ground; it had been flung from the
carriages after luncheon, and this, with a piece
of fish, supplied a meal or "a relish" to hun-
dreds.
In the public-houses, a slice of bread, 16 or
32 being cut from a quartern loaf -- as they are
whole or half slices -- is sold or offered with the
fish for a penny. The cry of the seller is, "fish
and bread, a penny." Sometimes for an extra-
sized piece, with bread, 2d. is obtained, but
very seldom, and sometimes two pieces are
given for 1½d. At the stalls bread is rarely
sold with the edible in question.
For the itinerant trade, a neatly painted
wooden tray, slung by a leathern strap from the
neck, is used: the tray is papered over gene-
rally with clean newspapers, and on the paper
is spread the shapeless brown lumps of fish.
Parsley is often strewn over them, and a salt-
box is placed at the discretion of the customer.
The trays contain from two to five dozen pieces.
The itinerant fried fish-sellers, when pursuing
their avocation, wear generally a jacket of cloth
or fustian buttoned round them, but the rest of
their attire is hidden by the white sleeves and
apron some wear, or by the black calico sleeves
and dark woollen aprons worn by others.
The capital required to start properly in the
business is: -- frying-pan 2s. (second-hand 9d.);
tray 2s. 6d. (second-hand 8d.); salt-box 6d. (second-hand 1d.); and stock-money 5s. -- in
all 10s. A man has gone into the trade, how-
ever, with 1s., which he expended in fish and
oil, borrowed a frying-pan, borrowed an old tea-
board, and so started on his venture.
The man who gave me the following informa- tion was well-looking, and might be about 45 or 50. He was poorly dressed, but his old brown surtout fitted him close and well, was jauntily buttoned up to his black satin stock, worn, but of good quality; and, altogether, he had what is understood among a class as "a betterly appear- ance about him." His statement, as well as those of the other vendors of provisions, is curious in its details of public-house vagaries. --
"I've been in the trade," he said, "seventeen
years. Before that, I was a gentleman's ser-
vant, and I married a servant-maid, and we had
a family, and, on that account, couldn't, either
of us, get a situation, though we'd good charac-
ters. I was out of employ for seven or eight
months, and things was beginning to go to the
pawn for a living; but at last, when I gave up
any hope of getting into a gentleman's service, I
raised 10s., and determined to try something
else. I was persuaded, by a friend who kept a
beer-shop, to sell oysters at his door. I took his
advice, and went to Billingsgate for the first
time in my life, and bought a peck of oysters for
2s. 6d. I was dressed respectable then -- nothing
like the mess and dirt I'm in now" [I may
observe, that there was no dirt about him];
"and so the salesman laid it on, but I gave him
all he asked. I know a deal better now. I'd
never been used to open oysters, and I couldn't
do it. I cut my fingers with the knife slipping
all over them, and had to hire a man to open for
me, or the blood from my cut fingers would have
run upon the oysters. For all that, I cleared
2s. 6d. on that peck, and I soon got up to the
trade, and did well; till, in two or three months,
the season got over, and I was advised, by the
same friend, to try fried fish. That suited me.
I've lived in good families, where there was
first-rate men-cooks, and I know what good
cooking means. I bought a dozen plaice; I
forget what I gave for them, but they were
dearer then than now. For all that, I took be-
tween 11s. and 12s. the first night -- it was Satur-
day -- that I started; and I stuck to it, and took
Column 2
from 7s. to 10s. every night, with more, of course,
on Saturday, and it was half of it profit then. I
cleared a good mechanic's earnings at that time
-- 30s. a week and more. Soon after, I was told
that, if agreeable, my wife could have a stall
with fried fish, opposite a wine-vaults just
opened, and she made nearly half as much as I
did on my rounds. I served the public-houses,
and soon got known. With some landlords I
had the privilege of the parlour, and tap-room,
and bar, when other tradesmen have been kept
out. The landlords will say to me still: `You can go in, Fishy.' Somehow, I got the name of
`Fishy' then, and I've kept it ever since. There
was hospitality in those days. I've gone into a
room in a public-house, used by mechanics, and
one of them has said: `I'll stand fish round,
gentlemen;' and I've supplied fifteen penn'orths.
Perhaps he was a stranger, such a sort of cus-
tomer, that wanted to be agreeable. Now, it's
more likely I hear: `Jack, lend us a penny to
buy a bit of fried;' and then Jack says: `You
be d -- d! here, lass, let's have another pint.'
The insults and difficulties I've had in the pub-
lic-house trade is dreadful. I once sold 16d. worth to three rough-looking fellows I'd never
seen before, and they seemed hearty, and asked
me to drink with them, so I took a pull; but
they wouldn't pay me when I asked, and I
waited a goodish bit before I did ask. I thought,
at first, it was their fun, but I waited from four
to seven, and I found it was no fun. I felt
upset, and ran out and told the policeman, but
he said it was only a debt, and he couldn't inter-
fere. So I ran to the station, but the head man
there said the same, and told me I should hand
over the fish with one hand, and hold out the
other hand for my money. So I went back to
the public-house, and asked for my money -- and
there was some mechanics that knew me there
then -- but I got nothing but ` -- you's!' and
one of 'em used most dreadful language. At
last, one of the mechanics said: `Muzzle him,
Fishy, if he won't pay.' He was far bigger than
me, him that was one in debt; but my spirit was
up, and I let go at him and gave him a bloody
nose, and the next hit I knocked him backwards,
I'm sure I don't know how, on to a table; but
I fell on him, and he clutched me by the coat-
collar -- I was respectable dressed then -- and half
smothered me. He tore the back of my coat,
too, and I went home like Jim Crow. The pot-
man and the others parted us, and they made
the man give me 1s., and the waiter paid me the
other 4d., and said he'd take his chance to get
it -- but he never got it. Another time I went
into a bar, and there was a ball in the house, and
one of the ball gents came down and gave my
basket a kick without ever a word, and started
the fish; and in a scuffle -- he was a little fellow,
but my master -- I had this finger put out of
joint -- you can see that, sir, still -- and was in
the hospital a week from an injury to my leg;
the tiblin bone was hurt, the doctors said" [the
tibia.] "I've had my tray kicked over for a
lark in a public-house, and a scramble for my
"I've been in the `fried' trade ever since,
except about three months that I tried the sand-
wiches. I didn't do so well in them, but it was
a far easier trade; no carrying heavy weights all
the way from Billingsgate: but I went back to
the fried. Why now, sir, a good week with me
-- and I've only myself in the trade now" [he
was a widower] -- "is to earn 12s., a poor week
is 9s.; and there's as many of one as of the
other. I'm known to sell the best of fish, and
to cook it in the best style. I think half of us,
take it round and round for a year, may earn as
much as I do, and the other half about half as
much. I think so. I might have saved money,
but for a family. I've only one at home with
me now, and he really is a good lad. My cus-
tomers are public-house people that want a
relish or a sort of supper with their beer, not so
much to drinkers. I sell to tradesmen, too; 4d. worth for tea or supper. Some of them send to
my place, for I'm known. The Great Exhibi-
tion can't be any difference to me. I've a regu-
lar round. I used to sell a good deal to women
of the town, but I don't now. They hav